Get To Know Natto

Slimy usually isn’t a selling point when you’re talking about food, but if it’s natto we’re talking about, that’s a large part of the appeal. In fact, “slimy” is one of the more appealing descriptors, followed by gluey, stringy, and mucilaginous, and that’s before we even get to the flavor.

What Is Natto?

Either you love it or you hate it; there’s no middle ground for this polarizing food. These fermented soybeans have been a staple of Japanese cuisine for hundreds of years, serving as a method of preservation and added nutrition as early as the Yayoi period (300 BCE – 300 CE.) It became a staple of shojin-ryori, providing meatless protein to Buddhist monks, and even fed samurai while traveling towards battle.

Natto requires only two ingredients: whole, cooked soybeans and Bacillus subtilis cultures. The process shares many similarities with miso and soy sauce, but is much faster, taking 24 hours or less to mature.

Natto Nutrition

Despite being an acquired taste for many, natto endures as a powerful superfood. Some companies have gone so far as to powder and capsulize it for those who can’t stomach the full experience. That said, nothing can compare to the genuine article, packing in more iron, manganese, copper, and fiber than an equal amount of any meat. Let’s not forget about all that cholesterol-free plant protein, and more probiotics than the average yogurt cup. Studies have shown it can help improve bone density, lower blood pressure, and aid in digestion, just for starters.

Natto’s real claim to nutritional fame is Nattokinase, an enzyme unique to the fermented beans, that many studies have found to be beneficial in combating heart disease. It’s also very high in Vitamin K2, which contributes to skin and bone health, metabolism, and brain function, and can be difficult to find from plant-based sources otherwise.

What Does Natto Taste Like?

Natto is not for everyone. Polls have shown that even self-described fans of the stuff are split on their actual enjoyment of it, admitting that it’s a regular part of their diet for the health benefits, not the flavor.

The soybeans themselves are subtly nutty, earthy, and tender. Once fermented, they take on a funky character somewhat like Brie cheese that can vary in intensity. It’s salty, richly umami, and can sometimes have a slightly bitter finish. Some prepared natto is seasoned with dashi, giving it a fishy aroma.

Neba-neba is the Japanese term that describes its unmistakable texture; stretchy, slimy, and sticky. This quality is exaggerated when stirred, which incorporates air and thickens the natto.

Buying Or Making Natto

Typically sold in 3-packs, ready-to-eat natto is found in most Asian specialty stores either in the freezer aisle nearby the vegetables and edamame, or in the refrigerated produce section not far from the miso pastes. It’s important to read labels carefully, because many contain non-vegan ingredients, namely fish in many forms. This could appear on labels as:

  • Bonito
  • Dashi
  • Tuna
  • Tuna extract
  • Dried fish
  • Fish sauce

You can bypass all of those possible pitfalls by making your own natto at home. If you’ve ever made kimchi, sauerkraut, or yogurt, you can make natto! The key is buying the right cultures and then just letting it do its thing.

Natto Serving Suggestions

Managing the texture and finding complementary flavor pairings is the key to enjoying natto. There’s nothing else quite like it, so your best bet is to just try it for yourself!

  • Breakfast is when natto truly shines. The simplest, most traditional approach is to add karashi (hot mustard), soy sauce, and thinly sliced scallions before serving over hot cooked rice. This is, of course, fairly intense and not the best way to win over natto newbies.
  • To that end, I’d recommend starting out with natto maki sushi rolls. Being able to cut it into distinct bites cuts down on the stringy, slimy texture considerably, so you can focus on whether or not the flavor is to your liking.
  • Similarly, it’s a great filling for onigiri, which can then be grilled to give you much needed crunchy contrast on the outside.
  • For a more western take, you can use natto to top buttered toast or avocado toast. Lightly mash it first if you’d like more of a subtle spread.

Have you tried natto before? Don’t let any naysayers scare you off; it really can be a delicious addition to a healthy diet!

White Hot

Color is a critical indicator for how we approach food.

Color Psychology in Food

  • Green typically signals vitamins and nutrients, a healthy choice, and possibly grassy flavors.
  • Red often tells us what we’re about to eat is sweet, or ripe and rich in umami.
  • White, perceived as the absence of color, suggests a lack of taste altogether.

Bland, boring, devoid of notable nutritional value, white fails to elicit the same sort of instant hunger that a bold, brilliantly colored dish can.

Such a shame for what is actually a reflection of every color in the spectrum. White is the ultimate shapeshifter, concealing a world of different spices. That’s why curry, found in every brilliant hue under the sun, is a particularly dangerous dish to cloak in bright white.

Consider this recipe your newest painful pleasure. Introducing, curry of another color.

What Is White Curry?

Creamy coconut milk is a common base for curry, smoothing out the harsh edges of hot spices with a rich and cooling finish. Most are tinted with yellow turmeric, and/or red or green chilies, but there’s more than one way to add a fiery bite to your food. My unconventional white curry uses pale Hungarian wax peppers to bring the heat, along with tiny but mighty bird’s eye chilies, small enough to disappear into the stew without any visual impact. From there, only white vegetables and plant protein join the party. White button mushrooms add umami richness and Asian pears contribute a subtle sweetness that’s essential to the nuanced, balanced flavor profile, but there’s plenty of room for adaptation.

Ideas For Additions

Make this recipe your own and try all sorts of different vegetables instead! Think there aren’t enough white produce picks to keep things exciting? Think again. Consider the following:

  • Jicama
  • Potatoes
  • Daikon
  • Parsnips
  • Cabbage
  • Fennel
  • Kohlrabi
  • Lotus root
  • White corn
  • Navy or cannelini beans
  • White asparagus
  • Hearts of palm

Don’t count the “lack” of color on this dish as a red flag. The amount of heat concealed in that creamy sauce could set off alarm bells for the unprepared. Don’t forget to serve with plenty of white rice to soak it all in!

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New Old Fashioned

Drink Your Mushrooms?

Save your side eye for more questionable content; the idea of infusing mushrooms into drinks is nothing new. Add them to coffee or tea and call them nootropics, but at the end of the day, you’re staring down the same thing at the bottom of your glass. Though medicinal mushrooms are billed as a silent partner, contributing to your wellness cache without being outspoken about it, there’s no reason why bolder fungi can’t belly up to the bar.

Shiitake, The Original Flavor Enhancer

As we’ve discussed before, Sugimoto Shiitake are on a whole different level from the average spore. Rich with free glutamates that create an unmistakable savory flavor, it’s easy to leverage their inherent wealth of aroma and unique pungency to enhance any dish. The concept certainly doesn’t end when happy hour strikes.

When used properly, shiitake in any form elevates the subtle nuances in all the components that coalesce into a carefully curated, intentional eating or drinking experience. Like salt, it should never taste overtly salty (or mushroomy, in this case), but allow the other players to shine as their best, truest selves.

Why A Shiitake Cocktail Just Works

There’s real scientific evidence supporting the use of shiitake in mixology. To better understand why this pairing works, let’s break down the primary tasting notes:

  • Earthy
  • Woodsy
  • Oaky
  • Nutty
  • Leathery
  • Smoky

Remind you of anything else? Yes, whiskey is a match made in heaven for this umami infusion! That’s why my Umami Old Fashioned is a foolproof twist on the classic cocktail that will never let you down.

How To Make An Umami Old Fashioned

The classic old fashioned is one of the easiest cocktails you could pour. Just four ingredients stand between you and that first bold, bracing sip: whiskey, sugar, bitters, and orange peel. To add some extra umami into the equation, we need to factor in two more ingredients: dried shiitake and time.

  1. Begin by crumbling 1 large koshin shiitake cap into 2 ounces of bitters. Add 2 ounces of water, since the mushrooms will absorb some of that as they rehydrate. Cover and let sit for 24 hours in a dark, cool place. Strain out the shiitake pieces (which are brilliant in risottos or stews) and store the umami bitters in a bottle with a dropper.
  2. To make the cocktail itself, combine simple syrup and a few drops of umami bitters in a glass with 1 – 2 ice cubes. Simple syrup dissolves more easily than granulated sugar, and can be made with a simple ratio of 1 part sugar to 2 parts water. Simmer and then let cool in advance, storing it in a glass bottle at room temperature until ready to use.
  3. Add the whiskey and stir for about 30 seconds to combine. Pour into a clean glass with fresh ice. Twist a piece of orange peel over the top to release the essential oils before placing it in the glass.
  4. Completely optional, but if desired, garnish with a luxardo cherry; literally the cherry on top.

Better Bitters

Since a little bit goes a long way when we’re talking about bitters, even this small amount should last a good while. Don’t reserve your supply only for cocktails; it’s a rich flavoring agent for a wide range of cooking applications too. Consider incorporating it into:

  • Vinaigrette and other dressings
  • Pickles and preserves
  • Marinades
  • Soups and stews

Once you start sipping, you’ll never want to stock the bar without this secret ingredient again. Cheers, to a new fashioned Old Fashioned that can keep up with the times.

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A Happy Black Day

February 14th is widely recognized as Valentine’s Day, a time for love of all sorts to flourish. In response, March 14th is White Day, celebrated by some Asian cultures as an opportunity to give back to those who initiated the romantic gestured, traditionally split along gendered lines. This binary reciprocation is lost on me, but what I can appreciate is the following month, April 14th, that brings us Black Day.

What Is Black Day?

Black Day (블랙데이) is found only in South Korea, observed by single people that missed out on the previous two love fests. The name is a cheeky reference to those with loveless black hearts and their loneliness, as if the world’s population of unattached people are all deeply depressed by remaining independent. Rejecting this theory, I much prefer the implications it has for the traditional celebratory food: Black noodles.

What Are Black Noodles?

Jjajangmyeon (짜장면), thick wheat noodles with an inky black sauce made from fermented bean paste. Full of vegetables and either meat or seafood, it should go without saying that my rendition would automatically be inauthentic, but delicious as a wholly separate dish inspired by this tradition.

What Makes My Take on Jjajangmyeon Special

Beyond being plant-based, there are a few unique twists that make my recipe a unique spin on the Korean classic.

  • Food-grade charcoal creates that perfect pitch-black tint.
  • Fermented black garlic adds an extra layer of umami funk.
  • No added sugar prevents the sauce from the common pitfall of becoming too sweet.
  • Extra-chunky cuts on an abundance of vegetables makes for a much more satisfying, hearty meal.

What Are The Best Noodles for Jjajangmyeon?

Fresh wheat noodles are the best choice, but those can be tough to find outside of large Asian markets.

  • Dried lo mein are my top choice, with their squared edges and toothsome yet slippery texture.
  • Ramen noodles work as well for a springier bite.
  • Thick spaghetti can work in a pinch, though they’re my least favorite option, personally.

You don’t have to be single to appreciate a hot bowlful of these black noodles, and you certainly shouldn’t feel sad about it either way. As a prime opportunity to indulge in this savory comfort food, Black Day is always a bright spot on my calendar.

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