All Y’alls Cookbook

“Flavor First” is the philosophy that guides my approach to cooking. It needs a punch of acid, smoldering heat, and sultry umami; an arresting taste experience that commands the center stage. To call something bland is the worst insult in my kitchen. That’s why it was such a joy to cook with All Y’alls Foods, creating this cookbook from the ground up with a rich palate of global tastes to spark inspiration. In case you thought of jerky as just a snack, allow me to flip the script.

What makes It’s Jerky Y’all and It’s Big Crunchy Bacony Bits Y’all so special is that they do more than try to translate dried meats directly into vegan terms. Each pouch offers the immediate gratification of a ready-to-eat snack, but with some creativity and fresh ingredients, you have an incredibly versatile, adaptable meal starter in your hands. Think of it as shelf-stable protein, just like you would lentils or chickpeas, but with more of a meaty bite than basic beans could ever dream of.

Let the rich flavors inspire your cooking, leaning into the building blocks of global cuisine by employing simple pantry staples. Chinese stir-fries or Mexican tortas are within easy reach, without a trip to a specialty grocery store or years of experience.

That said, don’t let me tell you what to do. Take this collection of recipes and make it your own. I’m thrilled to give away three copies to celebrate the printing and release, at long last! To enter, leave a comment about your favorite flavor of plant-based jerky, and don’t forget to log that on the form below.

It’s All Y’alls Cookbook

If you just can’t wait, you can snag a copy on the official All Y’alls Foods website.

I couldn’t be more proud to partner with founder and CEO Brett Christoffel in not only creating the recipes, text, and photos for this book, but also designing it from scratch, for the first time in my career. Since completing this project over a year ago, All Y’alls Foods has already released a new flavor, so you can expect a reprint with more sweet ideas featuring the inimitable Cinnamon Churro jerky. There’s always room for improvisation and even greater culinary exploration.

Hannah (BitterSweet)19 Comments

Im-Pressed with Oshizushi

50 years ago, sushi was an obscure, exotic oddity in the US. The mere concept of eating any sort of raw food, let alone uncooked proteins, had Americans running for the hills. Now, nigiri, sashimi, and maki are as commonplace as spaghetti and meatballs, and easily just as popular. Despite that infatuation, there’s a wide world of sushi that doesn’t get as much fanfare abroad.

Oshizushi, looking for all the world like an oversized sushi cake, offers a slice of Japanese heritage that’s poised to be the next big culinary craze that’s more than a passing trend.

What Is Oshizushi?

Literally translated as “pressed sushi,” oshizushi is a rectangular block of seasoned short grain rice layered with flavorful fillings, meticulously crafted in a wooden mold called oshibako. Unlike delicate, hand-formed nigiri, oshizushi comes together quickly thanks to this assembly line process. It boasts a slightly denser, satisfying texture – a testament to the pressing process that binds all the elements together.

Pressing Issues

Beautiful, even, and cohesive strata of tender grains, vegetables, and (traditionally) fish are the hallmark that immediately indicates a master’s work. This isn’t just about aesthetics, though. The act of pressing creates a unique interplay between rice and fillings. The flavors meld together, as the lightly vinegared rice mingles with the subtle sweetness of the protein, which is often gently cured or marinated. The pressure intensifies the umami throughout each bite, making oshizushi an experience that lingers on the palate long after the last bite.

Essential Additions

While there’s no wrong way to stack up your oshizushi, certain fillings get the nod for historical accuracy, harmony, and quite simply deliciousness. Customarily, oshizushi was prepared very simply, often with shiso and mackerel, trout, or salmon, served with soy sauce, wasabi, hot mustard, miso sauce, or pickled ginger. Contemporary approaches are more like modern futomaki, in the sense that anything goes. Tempura vegetables, shiitake mushrooms, watermelon ahi tuna, dairy-free cream cheese, sriracha; if you like it in sushi, you’ll like it here! Personally, my favorites always include thinly sliced cucumbers for that refreshing, crisp bite, and creamy avocados a touch of richness.

In this case, I was inspired by the rare appearance of plant-based seaweed-wrapped soy fillets, flavored and styled like imitation fish. As if that wasn’t opulent enough, a garnish of vegan fish roe elevated this humble food to all new heights. Naturally, you can use any protein you prefer, such as thinly sliced, marinated tofu or tempeh.

Sush-Easy

Consider oshizushi the quick fix for sushi cravings. Instead of painstakingly rolling each morsel, you can cut straight to the good stuff in no time at all. Sprinkle on furikake to get that essential nori flavoring without fussing with those delicate sheets, and dinner will be ready in no time.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

On A Wing And A Prayer

Wings are flying high, taking off in popularity like other appetizers can only dream. Best known slathered in vinegary buffalo sauce, the appeal of a spicy, deep-fried morsel is undeniable. Spreading like wildfire across the American bar scene since their creation in 1964, many establishments live and die based on the power of their wings. Naturally, vegan options have proliferated alongside the groundswell of interest in plant-based meats, giving rise to even more creative alternatives.

What Are Vegan Wings?

Defining what separates a vegan wing from a sauced and tossed nugget is a blurry, squiggly fine line. Close comparisons can be made to boneless wings, with meat that’s less processed and uniform than breaded bites. Wings are larger, juicier, and yes, coated in either a sauce or dry rub. Most are fried but not all, with methods like baking or roasting being more popular with the healthier crowd. Most confusingly, vegan wings aren’t necessarily protein-based at all, as seen by the mushroom and cauliflower wings that are also achieving great acclaim.

For the sake of this investigation, it simply must be called a “wing” on the menu to qualify. From there, it must stand on its own culinary merits to succeed.

What Makes The BEST Vegan Wings?

Judging what makes a great wing isn’t rocket surgery. Anyone who’s a fan of the food can tell you that it comes down to three things: If they’re crispy, meaty, and saucy.

  1. Crispy: It’s all about that crunch. Whether it’s battered, breaded, or naked, the outside of a wing needs a crispy finish that can hold up to being drenched in sauce, too.
  2. Meaty: I’m talking about umami and heartiness here. A wing needs a savory depth of flavor and a bite that really satisfies. I don’t care if it’s soy, wheat, or vegetable; it needs to feel like the main event, not a side dish.
  3. Saucy or Well-Seasoned: Buffalo may have a choke hold on the market, but it’s far from the only condiment in town. I went out of my way to try alternate sauces whenever possible, always looking for something that’s bold, balanced, clings and coats the wings richly, and doesn’t completely obscure the flavor of the base.

The Best Vegan Wings In Austin, Texas

While it’s a snap to make your own meatless wings at home, that’s not what we’re here for today. When cravings strike, there’s nothing like the instant gratification of a hot, fresh, crispy plate to share with friends. Here are the restaurants doing it right around town.

Community Vegan pulls out all the stops with their Lemon Pepper Wangz. Oyster mushrooms are at the heart of these impeccably crisp, generously seasoned bites. Citrusy, sharp, earthy, and bright, they have a distinct warmth but not a fiery heat, appealing to all levels of spice tolerance. They’re not chicken and they make no bones about it; what they lack in meaty flavor, they make up for in sheer umami. Expertly fried to a resoundingly crunchy finish, these are quite possibly my favorites on the list.

Possum Pizza is a close second for their hyper-realistic Buffalo Wings! and BBQ Wings!, complete with sugar cane drumsticks to gnaw on. Considering the magic they work with plant-based fried chicken, it should come as no surprise that these masters of comfort classics knock this one out of the park. Richly coated with a vinegary hot sauce and accompanied by ranch dressing, it’s the closest experience you can get to eating a conventional plate of wings. Better yet, you can get a killer pizza at the same time.

Alamo Drafthouse Cinema has technically disqualified themselves by rebranding their Buffalo Cauliflower Wings as a Vegan Cauliflower Bites, but they’re so good, I have to give them a pass for now. Where else can you watch the latest movie releases on the big screen in cozy reclining chairs while enjoying a pile of breaded and fried florets? No matter what you call them, they’re bestsellers for good reason.

Tarrytown Bar & Bistro makes theirCauliflower Wings thicc, with two c’s. These are heavily breaded, battered, and fried hard, creating a daunting fortress that you’ll need a steak knife to break through. If you’re craving a serious crunch, this is the app for you.

Nom Burgers employs the same model of sugarcane drumsticks as Possum Pizza, but dresses them up in 4 different sauce options, and cooks them to a softer finish. These literally fall off the bone, making for easy, if messy, eating. Spicy Korean Q Wings are allegedly the most popular model, but Hot Buffalo Wings are the way to go if you ask me. The real pro tip here is to opt for jalapeño cilantro aioli for dipping instead of the standard issue side of ranch.

CM Smokehouse, tucked away in the shadow of Bouldin Acres, is a classic Texas BBQ-style food truck. Vegetarian options are scant and vegan even fewer, but they do offer Cauliflower Wings tossed with buffalo, BBQ, sweet chili sriracha, or lemon pepper. Avoid the white BBQ and all dipping sauces, and you should be golden. These are unique from other cauliflower options in that they’re fried naked, sans batter or breading, and fried heavily. Genuinely blackened, without any trappings of blackening seasonings, it’s a dish best enjoyed slightly tipsy. There’s a subtly acrid burnt flavor that goes along with the technique which may be off-putting to some.

Moonbowls operates out of ghost kitchens nationwide, specializing in quick service Korean-fusion cuisine, making them a surprising contender for plant-based wings. Battered and fried Korean BBQ Cauliflower Wings are available as a standalone appetizer or topper for bowls, salads, or plates. With a light, airy coating akin to tempura, these bites feel fresher and healthier than most, while still having that satisfying fried flavor.

Yard House deserves props for putting Gardein Wings on the menu before it was cool. While it’s a bummer that none of the dipping sauces are vegan, it’s a treat to choose between buffalo, whiskey black pepper, BBQ, Korean chili garlic, and a lemon pepper dry rub at a mainstream franchise that would otherwise only offer French fries for plant-based palates. Sure, they’re just cut and sauced tenders, but with a pint of beer, a bunch of friends, and sports on TV, it’s the total package that seals the deal.

From mild to wild, saucy to dry spiced, there’s truly a wing out there for everyone. Do you have a favorite on the list?

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Stealthy Spice

Korean food in America is having a moment. Take a look at the latest hits from Trader Joe’s and you’ll see what I mean. They haven’t been able to keep frozen kimbap in stock since it launched almost a year ago, even after imposing strict purchasing limits. The beefless bulgogi has been winning over meat eaters and thrilling vegans as a premier protein, ideal for any cuisine, it turns out. They’ve introducing tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes), japchae (clear sweet potato noodles), jumeokbap (rice balls), and much more to a whole new audience that’s absolutely eating it up. Kimchi paved the way, and yet I find that the weakest offering by far.

Beyond Basic Kimchi

Kimchi has been simplified to mean spicy fermented cabbage out here, which isn’t wrong, but not entirely right either. It’s like saying all pickles are made of cucumbers, disregarding the whole pantheon of fermented veggies in the cellar. What’s worse is the fact that many commercial American kimchi options are simply vinegared, not lacto-fermented. There’s no funk, no heat, no umami to speak of.

Rad Radishes

Kkakdugi (깍두기), made with chunks of radish, has become my new obsession. You won’t find it outside of Asian grocery stores, but the good news is that it’s one of the easiest forms of kimchi to make at home. It’s the equivalent of a quick pickle, ready in as little as an hour, or savored with more complex flavors in a week. Though daikon is traditional, I was inspired by an incredibly peppery batch of purple ninja radishes that seemed ideal to pair with the fiery heat of gochugaru.

Pungent in the best kind of way, ninja kimchi is an intense, bold, and invigorating condiment to accent your next meal. The vegetables stay crisp for a satisfying crunch, though they’re also fabulous added to stews for a softer bite. Naturally, any kind of radish will do, from the original daikon to garden variety breakfast radish, but flavors and colors do of course vary.

If you like kimchi or want to delve deeper into Korean food beyond what’s available at mainstream US grocery stores, kkakdugi is an excellent way to test the waters.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments