‘Tinis and Weenies

Combining disparate items, bringing together high brow sensibility with low brow dishes, can yield unpredictable results. In the case of Tallboy in Oakland, CA, the output is downright marvelous. Though martinis and hotdogs may seem like odd bedfellows at first, and second, and perhaps even third glance, take a leap and try the pair together; you’ll get it with the first bite and sip.

Breaking it down to the base components, a classic Dirty Martini, served ice cold and with a strong saline undercurrent of olive juice, is an ideal foil to the hot, juicy, generously seasoned wiener. Both have hints of umami, simple and unvarnished, universally appealing and quite frankly (no pun intended), hard to mess up. Thankfully, at this dark and moody downtown lounge, they don’t.

From the acclaimed culinary duo Shane and Marie of former Lion Dance Cafe acclaim, you can expect a menu of bangers, which they easily deliver in a slim volume of approachable eats. Emphasizing the unexpected glizzy, everything is plant based (except for jello shots), offering an effortless gateway into meatless meals for otherwise unaware omnivores. Impossible dogs are at the base of each composition, convincingly spiced like the genuine article, further disguised by the battery of bold, inventive, if not downright whimsical toppings.

Soft, buttery, sesame-speckled buns cradle each savory creation. The Deli Dog appeals to classic sensibilities with a complete garden of pickled vegetables and a lavish drizzle of spicy brown mustard forming a tidy mountain on top. For more adventurous tastes, the Lion Dancing Dog is a must, as the namesake creation of this power couple. Sambal mayo sings alongside crisp cucumbers and crunchy fried shallots. Don’t discount the Cheese In The Trap, fusing funky fermented kimchi with gooey, slightly sticky American cheese. It’s a veritable and literal melting pot of flavors, as dog intended.

My personal favorite, which completely blindsided me, was the Chili Dog. A relative newcomer to the lineup, it’s a stunningly satisfying combination of new and old. Redolent of cumin, the chili is familiar yet novel, worthy of eating as a solo bowl. Thankfully, you also have the option of ordering a Frito Pie to do just that, which I’ll certainly take advantage of next time around. So rich and hearty, it doesn’t even need the optional cheese, despite the temptation to go all out. Unfancy and unbothered is the guiding ethos of this ballgame.

Don’t rush though the evening though; start slow, pretend you’re healthy at first and opt for a Wedge Salad that would be right at home in any upscale steakhouse. Delivering on the promise without deviation, you’ll get a solid slab of iceberg lettuce drenched in tangy blue cheese dressing and riddled with all manner of crunchy, bacony goodies. It’s perhaps the only fork and knife affair to be found, if you want to look more refined, for some inexplicable reason.

Otherwise, dive headfirst into the Potato Chips and Dip. Old school sour cream and onion has nothing on this cooling combo. The juxtaposition between crunchy, salty chips and creamy dip is far from groundbreaking, and it doesn’t need to be. It’s simply done right.

Another foolproof snack to balance out your booze is the Lion Dance Cafe Peanuts. A throwback to the original cafe creation, they sing with fiery chilies, makrut lime leaves, curry leaves, fresh lemongrass, and honestly, who knows what else. They’re famous for a reason, and that reason needn’t be fully explained to remain just as compelling.

On a budget or captive to more childlike cravings? You can always go in for The Classic hotdog, plain and simple, with optional mustard or ketchup, if your tastes skew in that direction. You can even order a straight up Nissin Stir Fry Cup Noodles for $4, so don’t say you can’t afford a night on the town. For the ambience, service and overall good vibes, that alone is worth the price of admission.

Feeling peckish but not quite ready to commit to a full dog? Feel free to avail yourself to endless free popcorn right around the bar, complete with nutritional yeast, seasoning salt, and ranch flavor shakers to sprinkle at will. Light and crunchy, always popped fresh throughout the night, it’s dangerously easy to keep munching and drinking for hours, which is exactly the point.

Martinis are highly recommended, with an expansive list of flavors and styles to chose from, though they are far from the only option. The entire cocktail program is robust, thoughtfully curated to appeal to every possible taste with a creative twist. Cocktails are equally well crafted for our sober friends who deserve more than a watered-down compromise.

Hot dogs and martinis are the new power couple. Like salt and pepper, peanut butter and jelly, coffee and cream, they belong together, no matter what anyone else says. It’s not that serious and a night on the town shouldn’t be either. Tallboy is the relief we need from being a straight-laced, responsibility-laden adult for just a minute, while still being able to imbibe like one.

Tallboy

4210 Telegraph Ave
Oakland, CA 94609

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Bean Counter

Peanuts are legumes, so why don’t more people treat them as such? Crunchy when toasted, creamy when blended, and inescapably rich in natural oils, they do indeed behave more like nuts, but I can assure you, these babies are beans all the way through. That’s not just some fun trivia to impress at dinner parties. The distinction between nuts and legumes changes how I’ve come to think about them in the kitchen. Nomenclature and botany aside, treating peanuts like beans flips the script in a whole new savory direction.

It all started with boiled peanuts. Slowly simmered inside once brittle shells, they soften to become the southern answer to edamame in their pods. Tender, flavorful, buttery, and briny, this classic preparation hints at their versatility and full culinary potential. Take it a step further with more liquid, and eventually, you’ll end up with peanut soup.

Groundbreaking Groundnuts

Peanut soup isn’t a groundbreaking concept, but one that’s ripe for reimagination. It has deep roots in West Africa, where peanuts, AKA “groundnuts,” have long been a staple. They meet with fiery chilies, ginger, cumin, and more, singing with the heat and intensity of African cuisine. When enslaved Africans were brought to the Americas, they brought their culinary traditions along with them, including the technique of using peanuts as a base for rich, savory soups.

The South, particularly Virginia, where peanuts have been grown since the 18th century, has adopted a milder, more delicate spin on peanut soup. It’s a simple affair that starts with onions and celery, uses flour as a thickener, and is enriched with heavy cream. Building that concept out into a more well-rounded snapshot of southern fare, it seemed a crime that no one ever thought to invite collard greens to the party.

The Southern Twist

In my mind, collard greens are the stalwart champions of Southern cuisine. Growing like weeds, bitter yet beguiling, their abundance is a testament to the tenacity of their keepers. Their earthy tartness perfectly balances the rich, nutty sweetness of peanuts in this velvety blend. Using crunchy peanut butter is the shortcut that ensures a perfect consistency, with toothsome bites of chopped peanuts and a silky-smooth base, all at once. Celery, naturally salty, is another essential vegetable that gets little fanfare in most recipes. Their feathery leaves are the final garnish that brings the whole dish together, echoing the sauteed base of aromatics within.

Know Your Beans

Peanuts are a curious contradiction in the culinary world. Though they behave like nuts, look like nuts, and taste like nuts, they’re beans, through and through. Often relegated to sweet treats or snack foods, recognizing them as beans opens up a whole new realm of savory possibilities. Peanut soup takes peanuts back to their roots, and puts them back at the center of the menu. Hearty enough to beat back the cold of any winter, this is one easy, tasty way to make peanuts worth more than a hill of beans.

Continue reading “Bean Counter” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Anasazi Anastasia

No matter how small, every ingredient comes with a story, even a literal or proverbial hill of beans. Anasazi beans are exactly that, having almost disappeared in the relentless push towards industrialized food systems. They’ve been passed down through generations, surviving untold hardships, good and bad harvests, and centuries of changing tastes. Offering far more than mere sustenance, they embody a spirit of resilience and ingenuity that continues to inspire cooks, and eaters, to this day.

A Brief History of Anasazi Beans

Named after the ancient Anasazi people, otherwise known as the Ancestral Pueblo people, who once thrived in the American Southwest, Anasazi beans have been around for over 800 years, enduring in the challenging landscapes of Arizona, New Mexico, and parts of Colorado. The name “Anasazi” comes from the Navajo word for “ancient ones.” Depending on who you ask, they may also go by the name of Aztec bean, cave bean, New Mexico Appaloosa, or Jacob’s cattle beans.

Remarkably impervious to extreme desert conditions, these beans were once a major food source for native tribes, who prized them for their nutritional value, drought tolerance, and long shelf life. Like tepary beans, Anasazi beans were a survival crop, capable of thriving in the arid regions where many other crops would fail.

Cooking ‘Til the Cows Come Home

Mottled like a cow’s spotted coat, the stunning maroon and white speckled pattern is visually striking, and the main attraction that drew me in at first. Anasazi beans can actually come in a variety of colors, including shades of red, pink, and even lighter speckling, which reflects the varied conditions in which these beans were grown, adapted over time to flourish in different climates and regions. In some cases, the cow spots will fade entirely after cooking, turning the beans a solid shade of dusty red, but in others, a light dappling will remain. No two batches of Anasazi beans are ever quite the same.

What Do Anasazi Beans Taste Like?

Anasazi beans have an incredible depth of flavor, even before adding any seasoning. They have a subtly sweet, nutty flavor, with a creamy texture that holds up beautifully when cooked. Unlike more common beans, which can sometimes have a subtly gritty finish, Anasazi beans are borderline buttery all the way through. A versatile addition to a wide range of recipes, you’ll most frequently find them used for refried beans, chilis, and stews. They’re most similar to pinto beans and can be swapped out at will.

Beans, Beans, They’re Good For Your Heart…

Anasazi beans aren’t just a pretty little trinkets meant to sit on the pantry. Like all other legumes, they pack a punch in terms of fiber, protein, and essential minerals like iron and magnesium. What sets them apart from the pack is that they’re much more easy to digest, because they contain fewer oligosaccharides, which are the starches that cause gas in beans. For bean skeptics or fair-weather fans, they’re a smart entryway into better bean appreciation.

How to Cook Anasazi Beans

Cooking Anasazi beans requires a bit of patience, but the results are well worth the effort. These beans are quite hardy and may take a little longer to soften compared to other beans, but once cooked, they offer a wonderful bite that won’t break down under heat.

  • On the Stove: Unsoaked Anasazi beans typically take about 1 to 1.5 hours to cook at a low simmer. If you soak them overnight, the cooking time is reduced to about 45-60 minutes. Be sure to add plenty of water during cooking to ensure the beans don’t dry out.
  • In a Slow Cooker: For a set-it-and-forget-it option, cook unsoaked Anasazi beans on low for 6 to 8 hours, or on high for 3 to 4 hours.
  • In a Pressure Cooker: If you’re in a rush, a pressure cooker can cook Anasazi beans in just 20 minutes, with a natural release to preserve the texture.

Regardless of the method, it’s important to add salt only after the beans are fully cooked. Adding salt too early can prevent the beans from softening properly, and that’s a mistake you’ll want to avoid.

Heirlooms with a Purpose

Anasazi beans deserve as much mainstream prominence as the average pinto, cannellini, or kidney bean, as a practical, sustainable food source. By incorporating Anasazi beans into your meals, you’re not just honoring an ancient food tradition, but also your taste buds. You’ll find yourself reaching for them not just because they’re healthy, but because they bring something special to the table.

Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Fiddle-Faddle Flädle

If you think about it, it’s a very fine line that divides bread and pasta. Leaveners; baking vs boiling; otherwise, it could be the same dough. There’s much more nuance to it, of course… And that’s where things get interesting.

Crepes, AKA pancakes, AKA pan-fried bread, could bridge that divide with remarkable ease. Such thin strips of a lightly toasted wheat batter are tender lengths of linguine waiting to happen. That’s the basic premise behind fläedlesuppe. Swirling in a clear broth, they add body to a brilliantly simple dish, the essence of comfort in a bowl. If you’ve enjoyed the warmth and soul-restorative powers of chicken noodle soup, you already know how compelling this combination can be.

We have the creativity of early Swabians to thank for this specialty. Flädle itself refers to the paper thin pancakes that are rolled and then sliced into delicate ribbons. Traditionally, fläedlesuppe consists only of these sliced crepes and a rich beef broth, perhaps with a few flecks of scallions or chives for color. In Austria, it’s known as frittatensuppe and in France, consommé célestine is essentially the same thing, though sometimes the pancakes are filled with cheese, as the French are apt to do.

Theoretically, it’s a brilliant way to use up leftovers, but practically, who has leftover crepes or pancakes? These are worth making fresh for the sole purpose of swimming in soup. There’s really nothing else to the dish, nothing more to be cooked, so it’s not any more work than it takes to whip up your average stack of flapjacks. If anything, it’s an ideal opportunity to practice your flipping skills; even if they end up torn or misshapen, they’ll just be sliced up anyway.

Especially on cold days, flädlesuppe feels like a warm embrace. It’s a dish that offers comfort in its simplest form—nourishing, soothing, and unpretentious. I see it as a very hopeful dish too. If bread can also be noodles, anything is possible. Even the most basic ingredients can turn into something extraordinary with creativity and care.

Continue reading “Fiddle-Faddle Flädle” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments