Fisherman’s Lure

If there’s any dish that represents the history and heritage of San Francisco, it’s cioppino. Even more so than the storied loaves of sourdough bread produced in droves around the bay, this humble yet simultaneously opulent dish has sustained generations. Tomatoes and seafood meet in an herbaceous broth spiked with white wine, embodying elegance without ostentation. It’s the working person’s humble indulgence, paying homage to the bounty of the region. The lack of plant-based seafood options put me off of attempting to replicate it for far too long. It turns out, nature already has a fantastic alternative to offer: mushrooms.

Mushrooms: The New Seafood

Yes, of course mushrooms! Varieties like king oyster mushrooms, maitake (AKA, hen of the woods), and shiitake, all featured prominently in this rich brew, make excellent seafood alternatives for a few key reasons:

  • Texture: Mushrooms have a naturally meaty and chewy texture, especially the small, thick caps of Donko Sugimoto Shiitake, evocative of scallops or shrimp when cooked.
  • Umami: Mushrooms, particularly dried shiitake, are rich in umami, which is also a crucial tasting note found in seafood. This depth of flavor comes from compounds like glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate, which are the uniquely potent trio that Sugimoto Shiitake brings to the table.
  • Absorbency: Mushrooms are known for their ability to absorb and enhance the flavors of whatever they are cooked with. When seasoned with seafood-like ingredients (such as seaweed, lemon, garlic, and herbs), mushrooms can take on flavors that mimic those of the sea.
  • Nutrition: While mushrooms don’t provide the same exact nutritional profile as seafood, they do offer important nutrients, including protein, fiber, and various vitamins and minerals.

Chip In For Cioppino

Legend has it that fishermen of yore would all “chip in” a bit of the day’s catch to make a communal vat of stew to share, and if you can imagine that with an Italian accent, the origin of the name would be clear. Others, however, see a more concrete link through the Italian word “ciuppin,” which means “to make soup from fish” or “little soup” in Ligurian dialect. In either case, it illustrates the beauty of this dish, which is infinitely adaptable. Built upon whatever was available at the end of a hard day’s work, there are no hard and fast rules. Had those founding San Franciscans set off into the forests instead of the sea, I’m confident there would be more foraged finds, like earthy wild mushrooms, added to the pot.

Cook Quickly, Savor Slowly

Romantic as the ideas of soup simmering on the stove may be, rarely do I have the time to babysit an all-day affair like that. Instead, I’m coming in hot with a quick-fix approach, taking advantage of my trusty pressure cooker. After sautéing the aromatics, it only takes 10 minutes under pressure to yield buttery-soft mushrooms and meltingly tender vegetables. Should you still want to take this to the stove, it’s easily feasible in an hour or two, tops.

Souper Stew

Cioppino is a complete thought, and thus, a complete one-pot meal. That said, it does beg for a wedge of crusty bread (yes, sourdough) to best sop up all the rich broth. If you’re having friends over and want to stretch it further, a peppery arugula salad would be an excellent counterpoint and of course, it pairs beautifully with a dry white wine. Plan to buy an extra bottle, just in case.

Tides of Change

Just as the tides of San Francisco Bay ebb and flow, so too does the legacy of cioppino evolve, shaped by time, necessity, and now, compassion. While the classic version pays tribute to seafaring traditions, this mushroom-forward interpretation speaks to a modern mindset, valuing sustainability without sacrificing depth of flavor. It’s remarkable how these humble fungi can bridge such a wide culinary gap, offering a taste of the ocean while staying firmly rooted to the forest floor. Tradition isn’t something we preserve—it’s something we reinvent.

Continue reading “Fisherman’s Lure” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

Pantry Gold

There are snacks, and then there are situations. Poha chivda can qualify as both. It can be methodically planned out, or like my rendition, borne of random cravings and the leftover dregs of a waning pantry. The eating experience is much the same, starting innocently with just a handful, enough to tide you over until the next meal. Five minutes later, half the jar is gone and you’re left wondering why you didn’t double the batch.

What Is Poha Chivda?

Poha chivda is a crunchy, savory Indian snack mix built on a foundation of crispy, toasted flattened rice, AKA poha. From this humble beginning, it’s all about layering in flavors with whole spices, fragrant curry leaves, nuts or seeds, and just enough heat to get your attention. Like the best recipes, it’s barely a recipe at all. There are no hard and fast rules for poha chivda, right down to the actual amounts. When in doubt, measure with your heart.

This version stays true to the core concept but plays with the fine details. Instead of the usual peanuts or cashews, I use pepitas. They toast up beautifully and add a subtle nuttiness without overpowering the mix. Shredded coconut accentuates those nutty notes while adding a subtle sweetness, balancing the earthy, citrusy aroma of fresh curry leaves. Turmeric, always and obviously, is essential. It turns everything the kind of contagious yellow that makes your fingers glow a little; a small price to pay for edible gold.

There’s No Wrong Way To Enjoy

Such small components may make it seem like anything but finger food, but I can assure you, there’s no shame in eating it by the handful. You can go in with spoons if you’d rather be more dainty, and there are many other ways to enjoy it as well:

  • Sprinkled over salads or grain bowls.
  • As a crunchy topping for creamy soups or dal.
  • On avocado toast.

It’s pantry cooking at its best: quick, adaptable, and deeply satisfying. And, like most good snacks, it barely lasts long enough to cool.

Continue reading “Pantry Gold” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)15 Comments

Not Jerking Your Chain

Packable protein is a must, and not just for gym rats focused on hitting their macros. As a person who travels by airplane often, drives a lot, and needs to be prepared in case of random catastrophic emergencies when only shelf stable food will do, I’m never without a cache of meatless jerky.

Conventional protein bars have their place, but personally, I’ve grown tired of the saccharine sweetness, latex-like consistency, and uninventive flavors. Savory snacks are where it’s at right now, evidenced by the booming jerky business. It feels like every day, there’s a new brand to try, which is both wonderful and overwhelming.

One Stop Jerky Shopping

Consolidate your search to one complete jerky resource to cut through the noise. Jerky Brands features a full selection of vegan jerky options, promoted with equal prominence as traditional options. It’s easy to find many old favorites right alongside upstarts that you may not have seen before. The meatless bases are diverse as the brands, leveraging unique meatless bases for every dietary need, such as:

  • Soy
  • Seitan
  • Mushrooms
  • Coconut
  • And even tomatoes!

Amongst those options, you’ll find gluten-free, organic, raw, low-sodium, and especially high-protein snacks, too.

Cruelty-Free Benefits

Seeing vegan jerky listed right alongside beef is even better than a solely vegan outpost, if you ask me. That means that omnivores who otherwise wouldn’t necessarily seek it out are automatically exposed to it, and thus more likely to consider it in addition to or instead of animal assets. Besides being kinder on the planet and to the creatures themselves, switching to meatless jerky is an easy, instant nutritional upgrade. It’s always cholesterol-free, lower in fat, and higher in fiber. It’s often priced lower than meat, too, for those on a budget.

Order Up

The beauty of having such a complete meatless jerky resource at your disposal is that you can try a little bit of everything. Don’t sweat the details; let the experts put together a curated sampler package, perfect as an introductory bundle for fledgling vegans or curious carnivores. This, like individual pouches as well, can be ordered as a subscription to make sure you never run out, and save 10% off the list price while you’re at it.

Snack Happy

Next time someone asks you the inevitable question of where you get your protein, just point them over to Jerky Brands. They’ll probably end up filling their virtual cart with all sorts of meatless treats once they get there, too.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Eat Like a King

It’s not a descendant of royalty and there’s no ranch dressing involved, so what on earth is a King Ranch Casserole? After making it, eating it, and researching it, I’m still coming up short on conclusive answers.

Introduced to me through an upcoming article for Vegan Journal, Lauren Bernick‘s plant-based, oil-free, whole-foods version is likely a far cry from the original, but I’d venture to say that’s a good thing. Composed primarily of condensed cream soups, tortilla chips, and chicken, it was borne of an era before nutritional awareness. It’s true origins remain murky, but we can say with conviction that it came from post war 1950’s home cooks, when canned goods were all the rage. As for the name, less is certain. King Ranch was and still is one of the largest ranches in the United States, but no one there claims this creation as their own. There’s zero connection to be found between the ranch and the hot dish.

Not particularly regal and downright messy, in the best kind of way, the only royal decree here seems to be “thou shalt cover all things in cheese and cream.” Tossing out the dairy-laden canned soups and poultry scraps in favor of fresh, plant-based ingredients, what remains is a vibrant, deeply satisfying savory entree that hits all the right notes of cozy, comforting, and hearty, while staying firmly on the side of health-conscious. It’s the kind of meal you can prep ahead for a busy week, serve to unsuspecting omnivores, or curl up with on a blustery night.

My version is just a small variation from Lauren’s, but one I’ve come to make and serve repeatedly, with resounding success. Don’t expect a crown jewel, but do expect requests for second helpings.

Continue reading “Eat Like a King” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments