Catcher In The Rye

I’ve always envied those with a strong culinary heritage. My own origins are as murky as they are unexciting, with food appearing as a bit player, never the star. When asked, my general response is that I’m a European mutt, maybe Russian at most, or Ukranian, or German, or Austrian, or…

Clues are scant and hard to verify. There are stories, like family lore, that could be as close to fact as fairy tales. Anyone with the truth is long gone. The best evidence I have are photos, especially of my dad’s side, seen through a Kodaslide, illuminating the past in every sense of the word. Seen in 3D, there’s my teenaged grandparents at the pool, my dad and aunt as toddlers dressed in some unfortunate plaid jumpsuits, my other aunt as a child running away from what seems like a dead body lying in the grass; some of these moments in time raise more questions than answers.

My Great Grandmother May, Circa 1955

Naturally, I’m most drawn to images depicting holidays and dinner parties, the grand celebrations and feasts of yore. There, I can’t help but notice the towers of bread, stacked instead of splayed, like two pillars a the center of the table. Though it’s hard to identify much else, I know this for sure: it’s rye bread on display.

It turns out, I’m like rye bread. Any number of countries could claim it as their own, offering compelling facts to make the case. In Scandinavia, you’ll find sweet and crisp rye breads like the Finnish rye and the crispbreads of Sweden, Norway, and Denmark. Eastern Europe, particularly Russia and the Baltics, is known for its dark, dense, and intensely flavored rye breads. Germany has a wide range of rye breads, from the robust and complex to the rich and varied, with Vollkornbrot being especially popular. Other notable rye breads include the tender and piquant rye of Southern Poland, the aromatic and flavorful rye of Bavaria, Switzerland, Austria, and Italy, and the rustic French-style Tourte de Seigle. In essence, rye bread is also a European mutt.

Jewish rye bread, lightly sour, sweet, and flecked with caraway seeds, is the food of my people. Marbled loaves especially have held a certain undeniable allure, rippled with undulating waves of dark, cocoa-tinted dough. I’ve long promised myself I’d make a loaf of my own, and so, for this World Bread Day, I finally have.

Banner World Bread Day, October 16, 2025

Of course, as you probably already guessed, I couldn’t simply pander to tradition to recreate what’s already been done millions of times before. Mine is a triple take on the concept, weaving in an even darker braid dyed with edible charcoal for maximum impact. Looking like a streaky challah, the tender yet dense texture evokes the best parts of a brioche and a pullman loaf combined. There’s a uniquely savory edge thanks to the distinctive seasonings and earthy whole grain flours, making its thick slices the ideal end caps to any deli sandwich.

Happea Vegans Not Yo Mami Pastrami on Rye

Other recipes will advise that caraway seeds are polarizing and thus optional. This is true, and I’d never look down on someone who wasn’t a fan. That said, I will advise that this is my recipe, and for me, they are not. Want a simple rye bread without seasonings or inclusions? Want to skip the different colors, the braiding and waiting, the long prep time to make that distinctive final swirl? That’s perfectly fine. That’s not this recipe.

Like the story behind rye bread itself, layered, winding, and shaped by time, my journey has led to something uniquely mine. I can’t recreate the original exactly, but I can honor its spirit. This rye bread is my version, rooted in tradition, but entirely my own.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)14 Comments

Milling About

If milling whole grains at home to make your own flour is extra, then I never want to be just enough. For most of human history, exactly the opposite has been true. Grinding grains wasn’t a luxury or a hobby; it was a simply an act of survival. Convenience has made the essentials feel optional, often to the detriment of quality.

Convenience, however, can also mean increased access to better technology, bringing the whole concept full circle. Home grain mills are now within easy reach of anyone hungry for a change.

Grinding Towards Independence

Evidence of prehistoric peoples using flat stones to crush grains into a coarse meal stretches back tens of thousands of years. One could argue that the first miller was whoever was brave enough to put a kernel of wheat into their mouth and chew. For as long as there have been grains, humans have wanted to pulverize them. Much as I’d love to share a whole deep dive on the history of milling, that would turn into a novel. Let’s speed through a few millennia to the American Revolution, where our nascent country became defined by amber waves of grain and by extension, the need to grind them into flour.

Watermill Built in the Late 19th Century

Before the revolution, the colonies relied on British flour imports. George Washington himself was instrumental in planting the seeds of economic sovereignty. In 1771, he unveiled what could easily be called one of the most advanced gristmills of its time, providing the tools for local farmers to mill their own crops. Becoming self-sufficient and producing their own flour, which was the most important staple of their bread-heavy diet, allowed them to reject British trade policies and withstand shortages. One could argue that flour is what won the war, and I’d like to think that as because of this, there’s nothing more patriotic than grinding your own grains.

The Benefits of Milling Your Own Grains

Freshly milled flour has an unmistakable aroma that no store-bought bag can ever replicate. It’s earthy, nutty, and alive. That’s because once a grain is ground, the oils in the germ and the nutrients in the bran begin to degrade. Commercial flours are stripped of these parts to extend shelf life—but what’s lost in the process is the soul of the grain.

Milling at home means:

  • What you put in is what you get out: 100% of the grain—germ, bran, and endosperm. No fillers, no fortification, no bleaching, no nonsense.
  • By starting fresh, you preserve the flavor and nutrition, including natural B vitamins, iron, magnesium, fiber, and healthy fats.
  • Having full control over a range of different grinds means being able to create any texture you desire, from coarse semolina to the finest cake flour.
  • There are no limits to what you can bake with. Take advantage of seasonality and regional grain diversity with heirloom grains like einkorn, emmer, spelt, or rye. Don’t forget about the ability to make gluten-free flours, using dried beans like chickpeas and lentils, too.
  • Starting truly from scratch and milling your own whole grains does take more time, but I’d write that in as a benefit, too. Slowing down makes you appreciate the end results on a deeper level, reestablishing the frayed connection between where our food comes from and what we actually eat.

Modern Grain Mills for Home Use

Thankfully, today’s grain mills don’t require hauling water or harnessing livestock. The modern home baker has a range of user-friendly, attractively designed tools that fit neatly on a countertop but still echo the intention of those ancient stones.

My own obsession and the whole inspiration for this post began with the Mockmill 100. Roughly the size and shape of a juicer, it uses corundum ceramic grinding stones which stay cool during grinding, preserving the nutrients and oils in the grain. The adjustment dial is intuitive, giving you control over everything from coarse grits to ultra-fine flour. Cleanup is minimal, it’s compact enough to live on the countertop, and it feels solidly built, promising to keep cranking for years to come. Most importantly, it unlocked a new world of whole grain flours to bake with, which is especially exciting when you have a resource like Grand Teton Ancient Grains to supply all the software.

Numerous brands make grain mill attachments for the Kitchenaid stand mixer, with an equally wide range of success. Mockmill also has a model that’s at the top of the heap for me, producing the finest grind with the least amount of friction and strain on the machine. It’s a more affordable way to get started, using some of the equipment you already have in your kitchen.

Vitamix makes a Dry Grains Container which is a reasonable solution for small batches, and well suited for making coarse grits, but is difficult for maintaining a consistent fine grind. You’ll always need to sieve your flour before use and run the bigger pieces back through for a second and sometimes third time. Never use your regular wet canister to grind grains; they’ll quickly dull the blades and chip away at the plastic container, making it permanently cloudy.

For a low-cost, low-tech solution, you can get a hand-crank mill which has the added benefit of working on your upper body strength at the same time! I can’t overstate how much physical labor it takes to operate one effectively, which could be a pro or a con, depending on your constitution. These typically clamp onto a table and then you’re good to go. Some models struggle with more oily grains, so it’s important to carefully review what the manufacturers do and don’t recommend milling.

True Grit

Most people would reasonably want to use their grain mills to start cranking out ultra-fine flour to make cakes and breads so soft, they could be mistaken for edible pillows. What I find to be even more alluring, however, is the ability to dial in the consistency to make fresh grits out of any grain your heart desires. In this case, I’ve tapped my good friend, Khorasan, to make instant hot cereal that blows that dusty stuff from store shelves out of the pantry. If you’re looking for ways to eat well on a budget, this is the ultimate in nourishment, comfort, and easy.

Yes, Cream of Khorasan is unglamorous, and you would be within your rights to call it gruel, but I promise you, it’s so much more than meets the eye. Think oatmeal, but with a uniquely nutty depth, filling and hearty, waiting for you to dress up however you like. Endlessly versatile, it can be sweet or savory, equally satisfying when lavished with berries and maple syrup as it is with furikake and soy sauce. Don’t judge this book by its cover; give it a chance, and you’ll find its a real page-turner.

Full Circle

Milling your own grains isn’t just about baking better bread, it’s a step towards reclaiming autonomy. It’s a rebellion against the packaged, the processed, and the passive. One kernel at a time, we grind toward a richer life, inside the kitchen and out. It’s a daily ritual that reestablishes our frayed connection to the land that we love.

It’s just flour, but as the basic building block of bread, pasta, pastries, and more, that’s no small thing. Milling your own flour honors tradition, takes a huge step forward to self-sufficiency, and most importantly, instills the deep satisfaction of truly starting from scratch.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Isaw It Coming

Clearly, nothing I make can really faze my mom anymore. Speaking over the phone, I explained I was in the middle of making intestine skewers using eggplant, and her response was so tepid, I might as well have said I was folding laundry. Just routine activities you’d expect from me at this point. After making vegan anchovies, Korean blood sausages, and brain pate, what could really be more shocking? Thankfully, isaw is hardly disconcerting to begin with, aside from the animal components.

What Is Isaw?

Isaw is celebrated as one of the most popular street foods in the Philippines. Made from chicken or pig intestines marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, and chilies, they’re coiled onto skewers like incongruously delicate ribbons, and grilled over open flames until lightly charred, smoky, and just a little crisp at the edges.

Each skewer is a textural wonderland; chewy, bouncy, and perfect for those who appreciate a more engaging eating experience. They’re often dunked into a sharp vinegar dip, spiked with more chilies, onions, and a touch of lime.

Plant-Based Intestines? Try Eggplant!

Inspired by the blank canvas that is eggplant, I wanted to do something really special with the scant harvest of Japanese eggplants that came from my own backyard garden. Their firmer texture with very few seeds makes them an ideal candidate for more aggressive cooking like this, whereas large Italian globe eggplants would become a watery mess. Sliced into long, thin planks, they get a dunk in that flavorful marinade until soft enough to bend without breaking, threading gracefully onto sticks at will.

Short Cuts Without Cutting Corners

I did cut corners a bit when it came to cooking. Employing my trusty air fryer instead of a proper grill, perhaps they don’t have that same inimitable char, but they do gain a compellingly crisp finish, in no time at all, with very little mess.

Likewise, for the dipping sauce, I could simply repurpose the leftover marinade, since cross-contamination is a nonissue when we’re talking about basic veggies instead of meat drippings. Waste not, want not! Spike it with a bit of heat and citrus, and we’re in business.

Isaw, You-Saw, We-All-Saw

Are the results exactly like intestines? Absolutely not, I promise you that. No one would be fooled for a second. It is, however, a delicious interpretation inspired by traditional flavors that makes for a satisfying quick snack, starter, or side dish for a larger meal. Everyone can appreciate that. Made with care, creativity, and respect for where the original idea came from. It doesn’t need to be an exact replica to earn its place at the table.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Sweet Beans: All About Adzuki

Drawn in by the scent of sweet pancakes sizzling between two iron plates, much like the nostalgic aroma of waffle cones in the ice cream parlors of my youth, I had no idea that this would be my first encounter with adzuki beans. I was in Japan for the first time, bearing more sweet teeth than a shark, and all I knew was that this captivating treat needed to be mine. Emerging from the hot press shaped like a rotund fish, everything about this indescribable flavor was a mystery. It wasn’t until long afterward that I discovered the leguminous truth. Given my impossibly picky nature at that time, it’s probably for the best.

Adzuki beans, often referred to as sweet red beans, aren’t called that for nothing. Though they’re traditionally boiled in a sugar syrup to enhance that aspect, wagashi (Japanese sweets) would be nothing without them. As one of the most ancient of legumes, they’ve played a crucial role in the development of society itself. We’re just so lucky that at this point in history, we can simply indulge in both the sweet and savory results.

A Bean With a Dream: A Brief History of Adzuki

The earliest ancestors of adzuki beans may have originated some 50,000 years ago in the foothills of the Himalayas, though they certainly didn’t look like the legume we know and love today. Domesticated adzuki beans can trace their lineage back over 10,000 years, first cultivated in Japan, eventually taking root across all of East Asia. They were one of the first crops subjected to selective breeding, long before the term GMO was bandied about, naturally favoring longer pods with fewer seeds and more consistent coloring.

Aside from their obvious culinary prowess as a foundational ingredient in macrobiotic cookery and modern pantries, they were revered as having magical powers. In both Korean and Japanese folklore, adzuki beans were believed to ward off evil spirits. Their vibrant red color symbolized protection and vitality. For centuries, they’ve been used not only in celebratory sweets like mochi, yokan, and dorayaki (more on that later), but also in temple offerings and new year dishes. Most notably, sekihan, a sticky rice steamed with adzuki, is a traditional harbinger of good luck.

Their name tells a story of accuracy, if not creativity. “Adzuki” comes from a Romanized spelling of the Japanese “azuki” (小豆), which roughly translates to “small bean.” In Chinese, they’re known as “hong dou” (红豆), AKA “red bean” Then, in Vietnamese, they’re called “đậu đỏ;” you guessed it, “red bean.”

What Do Adzuki Beans Taste Like?

Imagine the nutty, creamy softness of chestnuts, the mild sweetness of cooked oats, and the subtly tannic depth of black tea. Adzuki beans have a gentle, earthy flavor, with a surprising natural sweetness that lends itself to desserts. In fact, it wasn’t until my late teens that I even considered using them in any savory preparations.

Texturally, they’re supple but structured. They hold their shape, when a whole bean is desired, while just as easily blending into a silky-smooth puree. You can often find red bean paste (anko) canned with added sugar, which is either completely smooth or left slightly chunky, for making traditional sweets.

Anko

Nutrition For Days

Don’t let their diminutive size fool you; adzuki beans are compact nutritional powerhouses. Exceptionally high in protein and fiber, they’re low fat and high complex carbs, ideal for sustained energy. They’re rich in magnesium, potassium, iron, and zinc, along with proanthocyanidins, which are the same antioxidants found in red wine and berries. Because they’re smaller and less starchy than other beans, many find adzuki easier to digest.

In traditional Chinese medicine, they’re even used as a tonic for the kidneys and bladder, believed to balance yin energy and support circulation.

Macrobiotic principles, which draw from Buddhist philosophy and traditional Eastern medicine, consider adzuki beans to be uniquely balanced. Gentle, grounding, and nourishing, they’re considered the most warming of all beans, and thus, ideal for healing and gaining strength.

Unlike other beans, which can be heavy, gassy, or overly yin (cold and expansive), adzuki are seen as the most energetically balanced legume.

Zenzai

How to Cook Adzuki Beans

Though rarely sold in cans as whole, unsweetened beans, dry adzuki beans are remarkably cooperative. They’re one of the only beans that don’t require pre-soaking no matter the cooking method.

Always start by picking through to remove any stones or shriveled beans. Rinse and drain thoroughly. Use 1 part beans to 4 parts water, and save the salt until after they’re cooked. Macrobiotic cookery suggests adding kombu to the pot, much as you would bay leaves, to improve digestibility, add umami, and minerals like iodine, calcium, and magnesium.

  • Stove Top Method: In a large pot over medium heat, bring to a boil, reduce to low, and simmer uncovered for 40 – 60 minutes.
  • Pressure Cooker: Seal and cook over high pressure for 20 minutes. Allow for a natural release.

They’re done when soft but not split. Drain well and salt to taste.

  • Adzuki beans are also a wonderful candidate for sprouting! Soak for 8 – 12 hours, rinse twice daily, and in 3–4 days, you’ll have crisp, fresh sprouts with a sweet crunch, perfect for grain bowls, wraps, or salads.

IMG_1693 どら焼き dorayaki (wiggle 3D, look at the original size)

How to Use Adzuki Beans

Adzuki beans walk seamlessly between all worlds. Sweet, savory, rustic, refined; there’s a place for them at every table. Given how deeply rooted they are in many time-honored foodways, it’s difficult to compile every possible serving suggestion, or even hone it down to the best hits.

That said, I feel its my duty to at least try.

Japanese Dishes

  • Daifuku (Mochi): Perhaps the most iconic of all, these chewy pounded rice cakes are filled with sweetened adzuki paste (anko.)
  • Dorayaki: Two fluffy pancakes sandwich anko filling in the middle.
  • Yokan: Elegant, sliceable jellied anko made with agar. Firm, refined, and best served chilled with green tea.
  • Zenzai / Oshiruko: Warm red bean soup with mochi dumplings (dango). Soft, sweet, and soul-soothing on cold days.
  • Anmitsu / Mitsumame: Colorful agar cubes, fruits, and anko drizzled with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup), sometimes topped with ice cream for a summertime treat.
  • Taiyaki: Fish-shaped cakes filled with anko. Perfect for a portable treat, they’re closely associated with festivals and street fairs.

  • Manju: Dense steamed or baked buns filled with anko. They can simply be round or shaped like animals, such as birds, leaves, rabbits, and even Totoro!
  • Sekihan: Sticky glutinous rice steamed with adzuki beans, lightly salted. A celebratory dish for birthdays, weddings, and milestones, it symbolizes happiness and good fortune.
  • Amanatto: Candied beans that are lightly dried and coated in sugar, meant for snacking.

Chinese Dishes

  • Hong Dou Tang (紅豆湯): A classic dessert soup made with adzuki beans, often simmered with dried tangerine peel, lotus seeds, or barley. Served warm in the winter or chilled in the summer, it’s comforting, cleansing, and deeply nostalgic.
  • Red Bean Baozi (豆沙包): Soft, pillowy steamed buns filled with sweetened red bean paste. Commonly eaten for breakfast or dim sum, these are pure comfort food—lightly sweet, tender, and portable.
  • Mooncakes: In Mid-Autumn Festival, mooncakes come in many flavors. Sweet red bean paste is a common option, sometimes enriched with lotus seeds or jujubes for added complexity.
  • Red Bean Rice Cake (年糕): Similar to baked mochi, these glutinous rice cakes are studded with whole red beans and are a popular New Year treat, symbolizing luck and prosperity.
  • Red Bean Tangyuan: Chewy glutinous rice dumplings filled with sweet bean paste, served in a clear ginger syrup. Eaten during the Lantern Festival, these symbolize reunion and warmth.

[VIDEO] CÁCH LÀM CHÈ BA MÀU (CHÈ THẬP CẨM) – THREE-COLOR DESSERT

Vietnamese Dishes

  • Chè Đậu Đỏ / Chè Đậu Đen: Adzuki beans simmered with coconut milk and sugar, often served over crushed ice in the summer or warm with sticky rice in the winter.
  • Bánh Rán / Bánh Cam: Crisp, golden sesame-coated rice balls that have been deep-fried, sometimes smothered in a sticky sugar syrup, and filled with smooth red bean paste. Slightly chewy, deeply satisfying, and often found at street stalls.
  • Chè Ba Màu: Often described as “three layer pudding,” these colorful parfaits stack up adzuki bean and mung bean pastes, pandan jelly, and sweet coconut sauce. They’re served icy cold and are extremely popular when it’s hot out.

Modern & Fusion Dishes

  • Red Bean Ice Cream: Popular across Asia and beyond, adzuki bean ice cream has a creamy base with soft bean bits—earthy, sweet, and beautifully unexpected.
  • Adzuki Bean Mousse: Both elegant and earthy, adzuki bean mousse blends the creamy richness of a classic chocolate or vanilla mousse with the subtle sweetness and grounded depth of adzuki beans. It can be the main attraction, or part of a more complex dessert.
  • Smoothies & Lattes: Cooked adzuki beans can instantly pump up the protein and satiating factor for blended drinks.
  • Adzuki Brownies: Forget black bean brownies. Mashed adzuki beans mix seamlessly into batters, adding a nutty depth that plays surprisingly well with chocolate, while creating an uncanny fudge-like texture.
  • Meatless Burgers: Swap in adzuki for any of your favorite bean-based burger patties.
  • Wontons or Dumplings: Especially well-suited as filling for gyoza, AKA pot stickers, whole, mashed, or chopped beans are right at home wrapped up in dumpling skin.
  • Adzuki Hummus and Bean Dip: Anything chickpeas can do, adzuki can, too. It’s especially fun to play with the flavor palate to lean into its Asian origin by incorporating sesame oil, tamari, or a hint of ginger.
  • Spread on Toast: Anko makes a nutritious and tasty substitute for sugary fruit jams. For that matter, it’s just as satisfying in peanut butter sandwiches, or spread on bananas for a quick snack.
  • Soups, Stews, Curry, and Chili: Since adzuki beans hold up so well under pressure, they’re ideal for any simmered savory dish where you want your beans to stay intact.

Adzuki Beans: Past, Present, and Forever

It’s easy to overlook something as small and quiet as an adzuki bean. They’ve been around for thousands of years, unbothered by passing trends. They’ve touched countless lives, found themselves boiled, mashed, candied, fermented, steamed, and simmered, showing up in ceremonial meals and weekday soups. They’ve crossed borders and cultures, changed shape and form, and still managed to stay distinctive, true to form.

In a world where ingredients are constantly being rebranded and revitalized, adzuki beans are steady. They adapt, but they don’t ask for attention. When you cook with them, you’re not just following a recipe. You’re continuing something that began long before you, and will likely continue long after. Everyone should be so fortunate to have adzuki beans in their pantry.

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments