Choke Artist

Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.

What’s In A Name?

When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.

Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen

With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.

  1. Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
  2. Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
  3. Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
  4. Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
  5. Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
  6. Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
  7. Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.

One Killer App

Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.

The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.

Culinary Renaissance

Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.

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Healthier For The Holidays

Traditionally a time of socially acceptable gluttony and excess, holiday indulgences are an important part of the season, within reason. There’s room for plenty of treats while still making space for some smarter choices. It’s been my distinct pleasure to create some more wholesome options for the winter festivities as part of my partnership with Kim Murphy at Simply Plant Based Kitchen.

Tasked with creating weekly recipes using only whole foods that are oil-free, refined sugar-free, and low-sodium, it’s been an inspiring undertaking that’s helped me eat better at the same time. Proof positive that you can have all the flavors you crave without the junk, I’m thrilled to share some of the best seasonal dishes to help facilitate a healthier, happier holiday season for all.

Cranberry Cheese Ball

Kick off your holiday party with a show-stopping starter! In this twist on the southern staple, creamy cashew cheese meets fresh cranberries simmered in orange juice, turning the soft spread a jolly pink color. Crusted with crisp pistachios and pomegranate arils, each bite is a little bit sweet, tart, and richly savory. It’ll be hard to leave room for the main meal when the appetizer is this compelling!

Gingered Butternut Squash Soup

Warming from the inside out, a steaming bowlful of butternut soup is just what the doctor ordered, even when you’re feeling perfectly well. Roasting the squash caramelizes the natural sugars, bringing out a greater depth of flavor while enhancing the velvety texture once blended. If you’re spice-sensitive, you might want to start with half as much ginger to be safe; you can always add more to taste.

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad

Everyone loves roasted Brussels sprouts, but have you tried eating them raw? Finely shaved into gossamer shreds, they form the crisp hearty foundation of this ode to autumn’s bounty. Combining juicy pears, crunchy toasted pecans, and bursts of tart pomegranate arils, a hint of orange zest adds a refreshing citrus note, making this salad a perfect balance of sweet, savory, and tangy.

Baked Latkes

Meet the healthiest, tastiest latkes ever! Although the miracle of the Hanukkah lights is all about oil, it’s entirely possible to celebrate without a single drop. Baked and not fried, these latkes are crispy around the edges and soft in the center, almost like little hash brown pancakes. Made with zero grease and no mess in the oven, they’re a modern miracle in and of themselves.

Cranberry Banana Bread

Banana bread never goes out of season, a perennial favorite that’s infinitely adaptable. Fresh cranberries dress up this humble loaf in autumn’s finest fashion, adding tart flavor to contrast the moist, maple-sweetened crumb. Sparkling with warm cinnamon and ginger, each slice is a cozy reminder of fall, perfect for enjoying with a cup of tea or sharing with loved ones during those chilly afternoons.

Pumpkin Bread Pudding

Warm, creamy, and comforting, bread pudding is the perfect dessert to ward off those autumn chills while celebrating the season’s bounty. Infused with the goodness of pumpkin and sweetened entirely with dates, this version is as satisfying as it is soothing. Consider this your invitation to customize your bread pudding to better suit your personal tastes; apple pie spices or chai spices would be delightful to swap in for this classic combo, and a handful of chocolate chips or dried fruit would certainly be welcome, too.

Peppermint Crunch Bark

Homemade peppermint bark is one of the best crowd-pleasing sweets, crafts to make with kids, and last-minute gifts, all wrapped up in one bite-sized package. All you need is chocolate and peppermint extract to make it happen! Give your bark more bite this year by incorporating crispy rice cereal and cacao nibs, creating a texture that’s both lighter and more satisfying. It’s an easy and fun treat that everyone will love!

Nuts To Nog

Christmastime without eggnog would be simply nuts. Nuts that taste like eggnog, however, and that’s how you get into the spirit!

Eat, Drink, and Be Merry

For yet another year, I’ve been denied the pleasure of creating a new Nog-Off, with only one fresh contender of note. I will not, however, be denied my nog. For someone who’s never had the original egg- and dairy-based beverage, it has a hold on me like few other foods. And yes, though it is a drink, I think it’s substantial enough to qualify as a food too. That much is certainly true when you factor in a generous handful of crisp, freshly toasted nuts.

Nut Nog or Nog Nuts?

Nut nog is nothing new, of course, with some of the most popular recipes beginning with reliable old raw cashews, blended into creamy submission. What I’m talking about is a snack that straddles the line with dessert, could be served as a party starter or wrapped up as a gift at the end of the night, and has all the hallmarks of eggnog.

Aromatic nutmeg, bourbon, eggy kala namak, a touch of umami nutritional yeast, and lightly caramelized sugar all swirl together in a heady glaze that lacquers any combination of pecans, almonds, cashews, walnuts, pistachios, and so forth, that your heart desires. In fact, I even snuck in some pepitas for a subtly seasonal addition, so I’m calling seeds fair game, despite the official title.

Use Your Coconut

Coconut milk powder is a specialty ingredient that gives the mixture an additional richness, seeming to melt like freshly fallen snow, while creating a lightly frosted appearance. It’s entirely optional, so don’t fret if you can’t find it. Alternately, you can replace the alcohol with full-fat coconut cream, adding in a small splash of bourbon flavoring at the end if desired.

As the holidays descend and the festivities unfold, don’t let the absence of traditional eggnog dim your spirits. Embrace the joy of eggnog candied nuts; a sweet and savory blend that captures the essence of the season in every crunchy bite. Whether you’re sharing it at a gathering, gifting it to loved ones, or hoarding it all for yourself, this novel approach is sure to add cheer to the occasion, all without raising a glass.

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Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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