Three Tiers of Terror

By no stretch of the imagination could I claim to know every last cake decorator on earth, or even in the US, but I can tell you with absolute certainty that they all have one thing in common: They are absolutely crazy.  Especially those who specialize in wedding cakes, let me tell you.  That job requires a heightened level of madness, a degree of which I still have yet to fully comprehend.  I know this for sure because for however brief, I joined their ranks.

Still jet-lagged and bleary-eyed the day after returning from Paris, it was game time, and a trial cake had to be baked.  Never before had I made a wedding cake, nor even a round cake bigger than 10 inches in diameter, and somehow it seemed sensible to have only one test cake.  The madness had already begun to descend, you see.  Lacking the time to make the whole assembly, it was really just for reassurance that the recipe would still work when baked in a 3-inch thick layer… But of course, lest I get too comfortable with the concept, even the smallest top tier ballooned like a soufflé and promptly fell like a bombed out mine field.  Meanwhile, experiments with creating the perfect low-sugar frosting weren’t going any better, the whisk of my mixer dejectedly pushing around a thin, soupy icing that refused to gain any volume.  What a fun situation to return home to.

But there wasn’t enough time in the day to fix all of the kinks (ie, everything), and exhaustion began to set in, so in favor of not ending up face-first in a vat of cake batter, all I could do was high-tail it off to bed.  Never mind that the whole cake would need to be baked and crumb-coated tomorrow.

Simple enough, right?  Take all day and bake a cake.  But it’s no little birthday cake, no cute little two-layer affair.  These monstrous rounds require somewhere around 70 total cups of batter, and the largest layers took nearly two hours to bake, each.  Then, they must cool, and have you ever sat around waiting for a 14-inch round, 3-inch tall cake to cool?  Absolute torture.  At the very least, nothing had exploded in the oven, and I was making some progress.  Did I mention that this cake would be due at noon the next day?  Not that I was stressing over the deadline at all, no way.

Some how, some way, at the end of the longest day of my life, there actually was a wedding cake.  A feat in itself, but it was even on time and exactly as ordered!

While I’m normally opposed to using non-edible items on a cake, I could hardly argue with the bride’s request for fresh flower decorations. Besides, it saved me the heartache of trying to pipe some crude squiggles that might have only looked like flowers if you closed your eyes. At that point, I was just happy to throw some roses and such on it and be done with the thing.

After that maddening experience, it’s clear that only a very unbalanced, somewhat delusional, and absolutely obsessive person would choose to make wedding cakes for a living. And of course, I say that with great admiration.

Tomatoes: In, Strawberries: Out

If for only a moment, there comes a fleeting stretch of time where seasonal fruits intersect on their ways in and out of season. Both perfectly ripe, but some barely clinging to their final days at their prime, while others finally just hitting their stride. In perfect harmony for however briefly, it’s this window of opportunity where some of the most unique and unusual pairings can be made. It might sound crazy on paper, or on screen for that matter, but I was elated to finally try marrying tomatoes and strawberries into one inclusive dessert.

Composed of thinly sliced grape tomatoes and petite strawberries arranged in overlapping layers on top of an almond crust, these tartlettes couldn’t be any easier to make, but they seem to make a big impression on unsuspecting eaters. Lightly brushed with vanilla-infused agave, and finally topped with a sprinkle of grated lemon zest and fresh thyme, it’s one of those special treats that can only be enjoyed once or twice a year at most. Highlighting perfect produce, they hardly need anything to dress them up, and thus it’s hard to consider adorning the tartlettes any further.

Despite throwing in a couple of plain old strawberries tartlettes for good measure, just in case my taste testers wouldn’t go for this unusual idea, the tomato-layered sweets were still the first to disappear.

I’m afraid it may be too late for some of you, depending on what’s going on in your local markets, but if you happen to have the fortune of a late strawberry crop coming in, don’t let this one chance pass you by!

Cacao with a Kick

Come summer time, not only do eating habits have to change to accommodate the sweltering heat, but so do online ordering habits. Yes indeed, I’m guilty of rampant internet shopping practices, sending every wacky, interesting, and simply new food product to my virtual cart without a care in the world. With such easy access to otherwise unattainable vegan novelties, it’s hard to curb that impulse, and especially when it comes to innovative sweets. Unfortunately, mail ordering chocolate is a big no-no for me from about June through September, for fear of receiving a semi-melted, bloomed glob of cocoa butter and solids instead. Normally this isn’t such a difficult policy to follow, and the arrival of fall is always happily greeted with a big shipment of all the chocolates that had been tempting me through the summer… But I’m breaking all the rules this year. The decadent promise of Xan Confections’ vegan chocolate collection was simply too great to delay another month!

As soon as that brown cardboard box landed on my doorstep, I swooped in, tearing through plastic tape and a styrofoam cooler, eager to rescue my prize… Only to find my worst cocoa-covered fear inside. Never before had I broken the seasonal chocolate rule, and I’d be damned if I didn’t pay for it. Boxes smashed open, ice pack dripping wet and leaking all over the contents of that tiny cooler, it was enough to make a grown woman cry. And maybe it did. But regardless, through this tragedy, I discovered that the people of Xan Confection’s are understanding and caring human beings, taking pity on my situation enough to send out another package, no questions asked. Happily, this one arrived intact and looking positively mouth-watering.

There’s no way around it; These molded chocolates are absolutely stunning eye candy. The aptly named Jewel Collection consists of colorful, shimmering chocolate shells enclosing a variety of flavored caramels. Each different hue indicates a different flavor, but none are specifically marked or designated, so the element of surprise makes each bite just a little bit more exciting. Especially true if you happen to pick up the purple-tinged chocolate first, as I did… What a shock to discover a spicy, cayenne-flecked, flowing caramel sequestered inside that unassuming chocolate casing! This one really made me sit up and take notice- It was a real wake up call, with the potency to rival that of a cup of coffee!

The following flavors were somewhat less arresting, but no less tantalizing. Bright, fresh strawberry flavor, just like homemade strawberry jam, leapt out from within a pink-dusted gem to great delight. A pure caramel core with a perfect hit of salt in another truly made my tongue sing. The firm bite of a solid ganache center was another unexpected treat, incredibly rich with intense chocolate flavor.

Each new truffle kept me guessing, concealing any number of delicious flavors and textures within every last jewel. Part of the fun is that unknowable element, so instead of having me spell which each and every chocolate is, I think it’s just best if you taste these for yourself! Gem-like in every sense of the word, every little morsel is a true treasure.

Incredibly, the Saintly Sins collection packs the same punch of flavor and sublime texture, but is light in both fat and calories. I had trouble believing it myself as I bit through the perfectly tempered chocolate pieces, teeth meeting with a satisfying snap. Though the filling was runny to the point of being syrupy, and potentially quite messy, that problem is easily remedied by popping the whole truffle in your mouth at once! The fruit flavors were all fresh and intense, perfectly paired with the gently bitter chocolate exteriors.

It’s hard to find vegan chocolates of this quality, so if you’re craving a truly satisfying fix, it’s well worth the hazards of ordering Xan Confections through the internet, even in the hottest of months!

Happy Hour with the Daring Bakers

Nostalgia seems to drive many cooks to recreate “classic” recipes, testing them against hazy memories in hopes of discovering something just as good, or better yet, even more delicious than the original. Entering into this month’s Daring Baker challenge, I had the sense that many of my fellow bakers had this exact mission in mind, whether the resulting comparisons would be intentional or not. However, having long since forgotten my last experience of eating a Milano cookie perhaps a decade ago, and never having shared the company of a Mallomar at all, it was a whole new arena for me, and I was very excited about that. Without wistful recollections to weigh me down and close my mind off to new ideas, the potential for innovation that each cookie held was more tempting than the promise of a sweet treat alone. Despite rushing off to Paris and a number of deadline crunches, there was just no way I would miss this challenge.

The July Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Nicole at Sweet Tooth. She chose Chocolate Covered Marshmallow Cookies and Milan Cookies from pastry chef Gale Gand of the Food Network.

Where, oh where to start? Hemming and hawing over various shapes, presentations, and tastes, I finally settled on a simpler approach and focused on adding fresh flavors to these otherwise uninspiring chocolate-and-vanilla childhood staples. With the terrible heat and unquenchable thirst that it brings, the refreshing zest of a few summery drinks sounded like the perfect place to start.

And it wasn’t just a liquid fix I was craving! Fresh lime zest and mint straight from the garden made their way into the raw batter, giving the crisp cookies a delightful zip. Infusing the ganache of my Milano look-alikes with a healthy splash of rum was what really pulled the treat together though, creating irresistible mojito milans.

The real challenge, as one may have guessed, was creating a vegan marshmallow for the mallomars. Luckily, I had been experimenting recently on just that fluffy confection in question, so I had a pretty good grasp of it from the start. Although my mallow was a bit too soft in the end, all was not lost- into the hemisphere mold it went, and a long stay in the freezer fixed the situation.

This time around, my base cookies were imbued with the zest of an orange, and all of the plain water in my mallows was replaced with champagne. A quick dip in some dark chocolate, and voila- Mimosa mallomars! Both a refined, mature treat that’s still fun and a bit whimsical at the same time.

Time was not on my side, and I didn’t manage to squeeze in the complicated plating originally planned for these lovely mallomars, but at least this was something. Dipping one of the extra cookies half way in chocolate, and then topping that with a big scoop of chocolate ice cream, it was a pleasing, if not impressive, dessert all together. Really, it didn’t need a single thing to make it any more special though, as the mallow is an all-day recipe, making it a rare treat indeed.

Alone and unadorned though, both treats were even better when served chilled!

Bringing a Bite of Paris Back Home

Paris.

If anyone can sum up that city in just a few succinct paragraphs, I would be highly suspicious of how much they actually went out and experienced there. Overwhelmed by all of the words that could be said, the myriad of stories that could be told, after a mere 5 1/2 days of total immersion in the capital of France, I found it impossible to pick and choose the right ones at all. 

If you want to know more about the photos I posted, you can now see a few brief descriptions and explanations on Flickr

Speechless, stunned, and yet brimming with inspiration, I was back at work in the kitchen again as soon as we walked through the door.

Suitcases still stuffed, with both dirty laundry and happy memories, the familiar scent of buttery pastries began floating through the air, as if we had never left Paris at all. This time, however, I could actually enjoy those flaky delicacies, instead of solely photographing them.

I’ll be the first to admit that these are no where near as grand as those massive breakfast confections, but for a first try, I was pleasantly surprised by the outcome. Cut into miniature sizes, each croissant was but two bites each, but unarguably rich enough to quell any further hunger.

Despite how intimidating the hundreds of paper-thin layers may seem, croissants are actually quite simple to make; it’s the waiting and repetition that might become a bit trying. Luckily, I found a recipe for “quick” croissants, which can produce fresh, homemade pastries from start to finish in about 3 hours. Adapting it to better suit my American cups and teaspoons, while also easily veganizing it, this is definitely a good starting place for anyone who wants to give croissants a try for themselves.

Yield: Makes 8 Medium or 12 Small Croissants

Basic Vegan Croissants

Basic Vegan Croissants

Buttery, flaky, crisp, and light, there's nothing like a fresh, homemade croissant still warm from the oven. This shortcut technique is much faster than the traditional approach so you can indulge anytime.

Prep Time 45 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Additional Time 2 hours
Total Time 3 hours 5 minutes

Ingredients

Dough:

  • 2 1/4 Cups Bread Flour
  • 1 Teaspoon Active Dry Yeast
  • 1/2 Cup + 2 Teaspoons Water
  • 1 Teaspoon Salt
  • 2 Tablespoons + 2 Teaspoons Granulated Sugar
  • 1 1/2 Tablespoons Melted Vegan Butter

Butter Block:

  • 9 Tablespoons Vegan Butter, Frozen

Instructions

  1. To make the dough, start by combining all of the dry ingredients together in a large bowl until well distributed. Mix everything together and knead until a smooth dough is formed. Let rest in the fridge for 20-30 minutes. Add in the water and melted vegan butter and stir thoroughly to incorporate. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and kneed by hand for about 10 – 15 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
  2. While the dough chills, you can go ahead and prepare the butter block.
  3. It helps to start by cutting the frozen vegan butter into sizable chunks and arranging them right next to each other in as even of a rectangle as possible on top of a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment paper. Sandwich the butter between another silicone baking mat or sheet of parchment paper, and using your rolling pin, whack it into submission. You want to flatten the block out to about 1 cm or so high, and try to keep the sides even and rectangular. Allow it to chill in the fridge for 20-30 minutes.
  4. Once properly chilled, roll the dough out into a rectangle about twice as large as your butter block. Place the butter block in the center, diagonal to the sides (not parallel.) Enclose the block like an envelope, bringing the corners of the dough in to meet at the center. Roll the whole thing out gently to a thickness of about 1 cm again, and fold the short sides in by thirds.*
  5. Return it to the fridge so that it can chill for another 20 minutes before proceeding. Don’t be tempted to hasten this time, as the heat from your hands and the rolling pin will make all of the butter melt and run out. It’s essential to keep this dough as cool as possible before it hits the oven!
  6. Roll out the dough into a rectangle yet again, and fold in thirds as before. Chill for the same amount of time, and then repeat this process once more. Chill the dough for 20 more minutes before shaping it.
  7. To shape your croissants, roll the dough out into a rectangle as before, but cut it with a very sharp knife into equal triangles. If you want mini croissants, cut the dough in half lengthwise first, and then cut your triangles. Roll each triangle up, starting at the widest side, and the place each one on a fresh silpat or piece of parchment paper. Once all the croissants are cut and rolled, let them rise in a warm place for about 75 minutes, until nearly doubled in size.
  8. After rising, move the croissants into a preheated 415 degree oven.
  9. As soon as they’re safely inside, reduce the heat to 350 degrees, and do not open the door again until 15 minutes has elapsed. They should be golden brown, but if not, bake for an additional 5 – 10 minutes as necessary. Let cool before enjoying the fruits of your labor!

Notes

*The folding and shaping process is rather difficult to describe in words, so don’t worry if you’re a bit confused. Just check out the very helpful photos over at WikiHow if you need a visual aid.

Recommended Products

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Nutrition Information:

Yield:

12

Serving Size:

1

Amount Per Serving: Calories: 186Total Fat: 10gSaturated Fat: 2gTrans Fat: 2gUnsaturated Fat: 8gCholesterol: 0mgSodium: 177mgCarbohydrates: 20gFiber: 1gSugar: 1gProtein: 3g

All nutritional information presented within this site are intended for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and any nutritional information on BitterSweetBlog.com should only be used as a general guideline. This information is provided as a courtesy and there is no guarantee that the information will be completely accurate. Even though I try to provide accurate nutritional information to the best of my ability, these figures should still be considered estimations.

 

It’s a Set Up!

Ice cream is one of my all-time favorite photography subjects, so I really had a ball putting together my new ebook. The challenge of snapping that perfect shot before your carefully scooped spheres begin melting and pooling on the table just keeps me coming back for more. That, and the fact that the subjects must be quickly consumed once the camera is turned off, make for some great foodie photo fun. Previously, all of this work had to be done in the few hours in the day where the sun was at just the right position, otherwise the ice cream would melt at an incredible rate under the hot light, and all of the day’s work would thaw and waste away right before my eyes. Really, they don’t call it “hot” for nothing!

Now, things couldn’t be more different- It’s actually become a rarity for me to use natural light these days, working away in the darkness of the night to accomplish more than ever before.

If you had the chance to peruse that ebook, you should recognize this photo as the Rose Petal Ice Cream. A light, delicate little number that seems to simply glow. The secret behind that ethereal lighting is actually very simple…

Using the back of a chair to prop up my solid pink poster board, I start by laying the foundation with a smooth, seamless background. The strobe is positioned directly behind the set, facing away, with my usual white umbrella reflecting the flash back onto the subject, creating a nice, soft back light that highlights the edges of the ice cream. To soften the shadows in front, I set up my two little makeup mirrors on both sides.

Slight variations of this arrangement are my usual approach right now, and I couldn’t be happier with the consistently well-exposed results.