Know Your Onions

I have a question for you, and I want you to really think hard on it. Take a minute to comb through your memory archives before answering. It’s imperative that you mull it over, forward and backwards, backwards and forwards again.

Have you ever eaten a dish and thought, “there are too many onions in this.”

No. The answer is no. Unless you took a chomp out of a whole raw onion, it’s not humanly possible. Cooked onions in any form have no limit. No point of diminishing returns. Sauteed, fried, caramelized, dried, and even steamed or boiled; onions are the unassailable backbone of all cuisine.

French Onion Soup puts onions back on the pedestal where they belong. Not lurking in the shadows, hidden from the spotlight while doing all of the real work behind the scenes, it’s one of the few dishes where they get to shine. Even self-proclaimed vegetable haters will go to town on this steakhouse classic, luxuriously rich despite sporting the most basic of ingredients.

This concept is nothing new. My version isn’t special. It is, however, delicious, and delicious things are best shared. In case you didn’t already have a French onion soup in your repertoire, consider this the one to save.

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Donut Stop Believing

The heady smell of dough, yeast and sugar, gently clouds the cool air. It comes in soft waves, blindsiding the hungry with sudden pangs of the rich aroma. Golden, cloaked in shiny, crackled glaze, these treats look substantial, but seem to evaporate the moment you sink your teeth in, leaving behind only a whisper of buttery sweetness.

Vegan Donut and Gelato in Houston, TX immediately delivers on the promise of their name the moment you walk in the door. Lined up in neat rows behind the glass case, rainbow colors dazzle, bejeweled with sprinkles, marshmallows, nuts, seeds, and even crisp bacon. You’d be forgiven for questioning the first part of the title but before you ask, yes, everything here is 100% plant based, reaffirmed in no uncertain terms everywhere you look. Posters brightly advertise “Shift To Plant Based,” “Eat Plants, Plant Trees,” and “Be Kind, Inspire Change, Help Animals,” alongside family photos of puppies dressed in sweaters. Meatless proteins fill the freezer and dairy free milks are fully stocked in the adjoining fridge. It feels a bit like coming home, if your parents were vegan activists.

Perhaps that’s on purpose. Van and Hung were the previous owners of a Loving Hut outpost in the area, bringing a large swath of the pan-Asian menu with them, alongside the generous array of donuts, gelato, and other sweets. Their dedication to the community shines though in each plate, luring in the skeptical with both a sweet and savory touch. By all means, eat dessert first; the golden rounds of dough are baked fresh every morning, ready to face the day even before the sun is. From a simple glazed cake donut that tastes for all the world like a Krispy Kreme incarnate to monstrous apple fritters that would make a New Englander proud, they’re simple pleasures all, simply done right.

You’d think such indulgences would ruin your appetite, but the moment you see a steaming bowl of pho emerge from the kitchen, I promise that a new hunger will gnaw savagely, impossible to ignore. And then, what about the vegan orange chicken, an imitation that surpasses the original? Glossy and gleaming under bright window light, it’s almost enough to distract you from the fully staked burgers that follow, either beefy or of the crispy chicken variety, sporting the most impeccable patties ever seen on a bun.

Don’t worry if you have to run. Grab a kolache on your way out to get the best of both worlds. Pillowy bread encases traditional fillings like sausage and ham, all with the option to add bacon, cheese, and jalapeño, which should be a no-brainer. Falafel is definitely an outlier, showing another side of this versatile, edible art form.

Hopefully you’ve saved room for one last scoop. Lighter than the average ice cream, the gelato is easy to justify after, or before, or during, any meal. All the classics are in attendance, the chocolate and vanilla filled to the brim, but look further for a real treat to the tune of lemon cheesecake, taro, cookies and cream, matcha, and more creative combinations. You never know what you’ll find, which is part of the thrill.

Vegan Donut and Gelato feeds the community, both in body and spirit. It’s a place to gather, to see friends, enjoy events, or simply remind yourself of the good in the world. Perhaps that sounds like a lofty takeaway from a donut shop, but as you can see, it’s so much more than that. I know from experience, as it’s a roughly three and a half-hour drive from Austin, but worth a trip from anywhere.

Vegan Donut and Gelato
16618 Clay Rd #125
Houston, TX 77084

Just Nuts

Simple pleasures are what feel like genuine luxuries to me. I’ve come to terms with the fact that I’m not a fancy person; I don’t crave fine dining and I’d rather go foraging for food than shop at Erewhon, any day of the week.

Along those lines, I think about Marcona almonds as an attainable indulgence, but only once in a while. After all, the “queen of almonds” wouldn’t taste as royal if they became a daily habit, right? Skinless, buttery, with a soft yet crisp bite, they’re just nuts like any others, yet somehow so much more. When I see a neat little bowl of these tawny gems on display, I know we’re talking real money here.

As such, I don’t make Marcona almond money. I do, however, always have a stash of standard nonpareil almonds on hand, which are easily elevated to a level of greater opulence with just a touch of olive oil. What separates these nuts from the rest of the bushel is a higher fat content, so why not give them a little boost? Briefly frying the kernels in grassy, peppery olive oil gently cracks through their thin skins to infuse the meat inside.

Sizzling and popping in the pan, they unleash a cacophony of joyful sounds as their toasted, nutty scent fills the air. Merely the act of cooking them is a pleasure, long before they ever cross your lips. The whole experience of it never fails to brighten my day.

Seasoned gently with herbaceous rosemary, sweet orange, and delicate flaky salt, there’s no secret ingredient here. No crazy technique, no surprise twist. What you see is what you get, and what you get is even better than the combination sounds on paper. Yes, you need to use a generous amount of oil, which is worth it for this snack and beyond. Save the excess for cooking later to instantly boost the flavor of your next dish!

It doesn’t take great sums of money to feel rich. The simplest things, treated with love and respect, will get you there, too.

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Pesto Both Worlds

Put pesto and yuba together and nine times out of ten, you’d be right in thinking we’d have a high-protein faux noodle situation on the table. This is the one time out of ten where you’d be wrong.

Why Yuba? Why Not!

Thinly sliced soymilk skin, AKA yuba, makes an excellent facsimile for fettuccine; toothsome yet delicate, tangling with any pasta sauce as elegantly as anything made from wheat. And yes, while you could very happily stop there, treating that mixture more like a tuna salad and slapping it on a bun offers numerous benefits. For one, you can now eat it with your hands, shamelessly, and in public, which brings me to the second point of its enhanced portability. Can you eat a bowlful of spaghetti in the car, or pack it up and put it in a purse? Perhaps, but it I’d still argue that a sandwich full of pesto yuba has the edge.

Simple Swaps

Fresh yuba has become harder to get my hands on since moving away from California, inspiring me to recreate this understated classic with grated tofu, in case you’re wondering about substitutions. In fact, taking super firm tofu to a basic box grater yields a consistency more aligned with a conventional shredded chicken, faux crab, or tuna situation, more substantial and meaty, making its place between two slices of bread self-evident.

It’s not a flashy meal. It doesn’t sizzle, there’s no microgreen garnish. It’s not even particularly creative; just a different way of looking at an infinitely versatile ingredient that deserves to be more than another alt noodle.

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Wordless Wednesday: Two Years of Unicorniverse

Lavender Bliss Latte
Cookies and Cream Brownie
Pesto Au Fromages Omelette
Opera Cake
Berry Bunny Macaron
Coconut Chocolate Raspberry Tart
La Vert Croissant Sandwich
Chocolate-Hazelnut Croissant
Pesto Au Fromages Omelette
Carrot Cake Blondie
Greek Omelette
Almond Croissant
Black Forest Cake
Spiced Pear Macaron

 

Unicorniverse European Bakery & Cafe

EST on July 21, 2023

2400 S. I-35, Ste. 130
Round Rock, TX 78681