Category: Baking / Cooking

Quiche The Patriarchy

For a brief moment in time, quiche became one of the most maligned, loathsome, and outwardly scorned dishes on the brunch menu. All because of one book, originally intended as satire, mind you, an entire generation was taught to snub the combination of eggs and pastry. If quiche is meant to represent sensitivity, emotional availability, and yes, femininity, shouldn’t we embrace all that with open arms? Regardless of gender politics, I see no negatives there.

Mini Quiches, Big Flavors

Perhaps the problem is more about commitment issues. Whipping up a whole quiche takes more time and effort than a simple tofu scramble, and if you’re just cooking for one, you’re looking at quiche for days. Shrink it down to bite size and remove all those barriers. Let’s just enjoy quiche on our own terms.

Crustless, eggless little wonders, these miniature morsels cram a whole lot of flavor and nutrition into tiny packages. Inspired by a surfeit of Greek-style dairy-free yogurt following an irresistible sale, the palate of flavors follows suit with a savory compliment of artichokes, Kalamata olives, and aromatic herbs.

Make Them Your Own

There’s plenty of room for adaptation as well. Other great vegetable additions include fresh or frozen and thawed spinach, chopped mushrooms, green bell peppers, or red onions, just to name a few that fit with the “Greek” theme. Options are endless once you depart from that path.

If you’re ready to fearlessly embrace the larger format, it’s easy to make one large quiche, big enough to feed a crowd and simultaneously bring misogynists to their knees. Double the recipe and bake it in a 9-inch tart pan, pie pan, or cake pan. Double the baking time as well, and make sure it rests until completely cool before slicing.

Delicious By Any Name

Still have guests that would feel irrationally threatened by the idea of consuming quiche? Perhaps it would be more palatable if you call them mini frittatas, egg muffins, or even sous vide egg bites (irrespective of actual technique) to latch on to the trend that Starbucks popularized. When all else fails, just call it brunch, and the flavors will speak for themselves.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

A Balancing Act

Cooking, like life in general, is all about balance. Harmonizing contrasting flavors and textures are obvious and critical components, but there’s so much more to it than that. There’s also the balance between needs and wants; aversions and cravings; nutrition and comfort. Balance goes beyond what’s on the plate when you do it right.

Creamy walnut and roasted lemon pasta is my best example of balance at the moment. At a time when winter weather is prone to unpredictable
tantrums, farmers market hauls are pitiable, and inspiration is scant, this simple dish covers the full spectrum of demands and desires.

Elegance in Simplicity

Meyer lemons, naturally sweet, are roasted to lightly char the edges, adding a unique caramelized flavor to the sauce. Blended walnuts create the creamy base, their earthiness accentuating the toasted notes, and subtle bitterness bolstering the sourness of the citrus. From there, seasonings are minimal, emphasizing umami with nutritional yeast and miso paste, plus a touch of red pepper flakes for a bright finish. To round it all out, a handful of greens incorporates more freshness, while still cooking down to a soft, silky texture.

Don’t sweat the details. Campanelle pasta, those flourishing trumpet shapes, are my favorite here, but anything from rigatoni to bow ties will do. Meyer lemons aren’t the only sort that will work, if your choices for citrus are limited.

Better Balance

That’s the thing about balance; there’s no one way to achieve it. What’s more, it isn’t finite. You’re allowed to redefine what balance means to you. I just hope this recipe might help you find it like I did.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

The Sharper Your Knife, The Less You’ll Cry

Being perpetually broke and terminally thrifty aren’t exactly qualities to brag about, but they have been an asset to my culinary creativity. When onions go on sale for $1 per 3 pounds, you’d better believe I’m already brainstorming ways to make them the foundation of my diet for the next few weeks. That is to say, sharpen your knives and get ready to shed some tears; onions are what’s for dinner.

Onions In The Spotlight

Onions don’t get enough respect as vegetables, every bit as worthy of your attention as social media darlings like Brussels sprouts or kale. They’re the backbone of almost every cuisine and the recipes found therein. From France to China, arbiters of good taste worldwide wouldn’t willingly omit the onions for anything. Just try sauteing up some onions in olive oil to see what I mean; anyone walking through the kitchen will immediately ask what smells so good.

What’s An Onion Casserole?

While I’ve often dispatched such a bounty by simply caramelizing then and freezing them for later, I wanted to stretch my meals in a different way during a particularly lean winter. Southern tradition has something called “Tennessee Onions,” bearing a strong resemblance to this similar casserole, but with a dairy-heavy slant. I’m taking the easy route by employing just plants, thank you very much.

Serving Up Onions With Style

In fact, it’s so easy, you don’t need to dirty a single bowl, or even a spatula. Put your onions in the baking dish, top with seasonings, and pop it in the oven. It pretty much cooks itself. Now, I’m not crazy, I know onions alone are not an entree, but they can make a strong side dish, just like you might serve steamed broccoli or roasted green beans alongside your favorite protein. What’s more, these silky, buttery flavor bombs are prime topping options for crusty bread, slow-simmered soups, layered dips, and so much more. Incorporate them into leftover rice or pasta for an instant flavor upgrade, or simply start your favorite recipes by skipping the first step of sauteing them from scratch.

In honor of the nearby Austin neighborhood, Onion Creek, I’m naming my take with local flare. They may not start the next TikTok craze, but their appeal is timeless and undeniable. Meltingly tender, sweet onions will never go out of style.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

The Food Of Love

What makes a good Valentine’s Day recipe?

For that matter, how do you really qualify a dish as being more romantic than the next? Anything made with love should count, whether that’s delicate heart-shaped ravioli or a giant pot of chili. Classic aphrodisiacs get a nod, for sure, whether or not they can actually influence a person’s immediate desires.

Food itself is love.

There’s an undeniable intimacy in preparing a meal for someone you love. It’s a vulnerable act, pouring your own hopes and tastes, energy and creativity into every chop, stir, and sauté. Ingredients meld with emotions, creating a dish that is not just a combination of flavors but a manifestation of affection.

While I’m sharing my top plant-based picks for Valentine’s Day here, like all advice on the internet, your mileage may vary. The good news is that when you start with love, you can’t go too far wrong.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Taro Touchdown

Chili, nachos, and wings may be the reigning champs of Super Bowl snacking, but there’s a dark horse emerging from the sidelines to redefine the game. Hummus, rising through the ranks to become one of the top dips across the board, is slowly conquering sports bars and watch parties, too. Recent polls show that it’s already leading the pack in three states, with no doubt more to come.

That’s a sure thing once you get the MVP of chickpea purees on the menu: Taro Hummus. More than a mere dip, it’s a touchdown for your taste buds.

Forward Progress

Tender steamed taro brings a whole new dimension to the beloved spread. Thick and creamy, hearty yet healthy, and utterly unexpected, it’s the surprise play your guests never saw coming. Taro’s slightly sweet and nutty flavor makes an ideal pairing with the sesame tahini that makes hummus a classic staple. Savory spices, grassy olive oil, and a touch of bright citrus are the dream team that brings everything together.

False Start Penalty

Call it a tropical tuber, but taro isn’t like other common potatoes. The exterior contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are essentially shaped like microscopic needles, and can cause irritation or a stinging sensation when handled. For this reason, do NOT attempt to cook work with raw taro without wearing gloves, and absolutely NEVER eat uncooked taro. If you think it hurts your skin, imagine how it feels going down your throat.

Steaming taro is the best way to maintain the natural essence and texture of this starchy root vegetable. Alternately, roasting is a great alternative to add more of a caramelized, toasted edge. In a pinch, boiling can work, but is more likely to lead to a watery hummus in the end.

No-Huddle Offense

Don’t wait for the opposing team to make their move with boring old Super Bowl snacks. Taro hummus is the culinary quarterback that will carry your cravings to victory.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments