Category: Baking / Cooking

Canoodle With A Kugel

Kugel, a staple of classic Jewish cuisine, is frequently weighed down in a stodgy pudding of pasta, cream cheese, raisins, and apples. This sweet intrusion on the dinner table never appealed to me as a kid, which is why I always stuck to the savory side of the street when composing my own casseroles. Further improve upon the concept by swapping out those starchy noodles with wide ribbons of spiralized zucchini, instantly transforming the outdated side dish into a truly worthy dinner guest.

By replacing the typical egg noodles with tender, springy ribbons of spiralized zucchini, we not only lighten the dish but also elevate the flavor. Zucchini adds a subtle sweetness and almost silky texture when baked, creating a kugel unlike any other. As an added bonus, that makes it naturally gluten-free (and of course still kosher, as always), so everyone can freely partake. Would it be equally apt to call it a zucchini hotdish? Sure, but isn’t a conventional noodle kugel just a pasta hotdish, too?

The beauty of the zoodle kugel lies in its ease and versatility. Using a spiralizer, it comes together in a snap while dirtying minimal additional dishes, and you can just as quickly customize it with your favorite savory additions. Think: caramelized onions and garlicky mushrooms, thinly shaved fennel and fresh dill, or roasted red peppers and sun-dried tomatoes. The possibilities are endless, making this kugel a keeper all year round, adaptable for any occasion.

Next time you’re craving comfort food with a twist, consider the humble zoodle kugel. It bridges the gap between tradition and innovation, offering a taste of nostalgia alongside a fresh, seasonal flavor. It’s a kugel that’s worthy of a place at any dinner table, settling the debate between sweet or savory… At least for one course.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Pollinate Your Plate

Want to look like a fancy chef in an instant? Fennel pollen is the answer. Even the name sounds illustrious, rarified, and sophisticated. Though it’s true, you’re not likely to find it in your average grocery store, it’s not as exclusive as it sounds.

What Is Fennel Pollen?

Derived from the blossoms of the fennel plant, rather than the vegetable, which includes the tiny yellow flowers and powdery substance within. Some call it “culinary fairy dust” and covet it like saffron.

What Does Fennel Pollen Taste Like?

Naturally, it tastes like fennel, combining the delicate essence of anise and licorice, alongside more floral, citrus, and honied notes.

How Is Fennel Pollen Used?

A little pinch goes a long way, transforming simple vegan egg toast with romesco into something truly gourmet. Though intense, it should only be applied as a finishing seasoning after cooking, as heat will destroy its unique nuances. Remarkably versatile, fennel pollen can enhance both sweet and savory dishes, elevating everything from appetizers to desserts.

Foolproof pairings include:

  • Proteins like tofu or tempeh, cooked predominantly with simple marinades such as garlic and lemon, to add a sweet and aromatic final touch.
  • Mushrooms, especially those that are milder, such as oyster, trumpet, cremini, and portobello.
  • Vegetables such as roasted or grilled carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, potatoes, beets, and so much more. If it goes well with fennel, it goes well with fennel pollen, too.
  • Grain-based dishes like quinoa, couscous, or bulgur, to harmonize with their distinctive earthy, nutty, cereal flavors.
  • Pasta, because what doesn’t pair with pasta? Tomato sauces, cream sauces, and butter sauces alike can all benefit from a tiny pinch of fennel pollen.
  • Sweets and desserts, particularly apple pies, spice cakes, poached pears, vanilla ice cream, and even chocolate truffles, to name a few.

Pollinate Your Plate Today

Though the price of entry may initially be steep, fennel pollen is worth the expense. Harvested by hand from wild fennel, it’s not something you can cut corners on. To add a gourmet touch to everyday meals, there’s nothing else quite like it.

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Don’t Leaf Curry Alone

“Curry” isn’t just a type of stew, or a paste, or even a powder. Curry leaves came before all of that, appearing in text as early as 100 CE. A treasured staple of south Indian cuisine, their complete absence in overseas markets is downright astounding. Even with my penchant for exploring new flavors and obscure ingredients, my first taste of fresh curry leaves was only a few months ago. Now, I’ll spend the rest of my life making up for lost time.

What Do Curry Leaves Taste Like?

What do they taste like? No, seriously, I’m still asking myself that question. I popped a spry green leaf into my mouth and chewed, racking my brain for a good comparison. Shiso had the closest flavor profile I could come up with, but even that is a stretch. Musky, piney, resinous, tannic, nutty, and pungent, there’s truly nothing else like them. Don’t bother looking for substitutes; you’re better off just omitting them, unfortunately.

Where Can I Get Curry Leaves?

This is the million dollar question, the real barrier to entry here. Realistically, it’s more like a $2 question when you find a source, and you’ll get at least a half bushel of the things for that price. Take as many as are offered because they freeze beautifully, which means you can always have an ample supply on hand. Unless you have access to a robust Asian or Indian market though, it’s unlikely you’ll find fresh curry leaves nearby. Dried are available online, but of course, they lack the same punch and vibrancy.

What’s The Best Way To Cook With Curry Leaves?

I’m so glad you asked! Cooking with curry leaves is intuitive once you start thinking about them as both a whole spice and herb. Naturally, they’re best suited with Indian recipes, tempered in hot oil before a stir fry, stew, or sauté, bringing out the aromatic, volatile oils. The leaves can be used whole, much like bay leaves, but they’re fully edible and thus don’t need to be removed before serving. Dried, ground curry leaves can be applied like any other seasoning, although again, don’t expect the same distinctive bouquet of flavors.

Health Benefits of Curry Leaves

Curry leaves have a long history of medicinal usage with proven results. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E, and minerals, their nutritional value is as powerful as their culinary potential. A key component of Ayurvedic medicine since ancient times, curry leaves are noted for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They’re also believed to aid in digestion, improve hair and skin health, reduce cholesterol, and even help manage diabetes. If you’re ever feeling the effects of eating too many beans (AKA flatulence), chew on a few raw curry leaves for relief. It’s a surprisingly effective and affordable fix!

Curry Leaf Recipes

Now that I finally got my hands on these greens that have more culinary value than dollar bills, I’m trying to spend them wisely on only the most promising recipes. Here’s the list of suggestions that I’ll be working through shortly:

The beauty of curry leaves is that they go with genuinely any Indian dish. Just throw a handful into whatever you’re cooking for an instant flavor upgrade.

Curry Up Now

If you’ve ever wondered why your home cooking doesn’t taste quite like your favorite meals from Indian restaurants, curry leaves are the missing ingredient. The instant impact that a small sprig can have is astounding, like turning a light switch on in a dark room. Come into the light, and give fresh curry leaves a try.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Praram is Paramount

Praram is unarguably Thai in origin, dating back to 1800’s under the rule of King Rama 5, yet you’re far more likely to find it on menus in America than in Thailand. Owing more to our penchant for rich sauces than an indicator of authenticity, it’s a beloved staple that everyone can appreciate.

Peanut Power

Just about anything would be delicious when smothered in a spicy peanut sauce, but this bold blend is particularly invigorating. Complex red curry paste is bolstered by the sweet heat of sriracha, spiked with tart lime juice, and cooled with creamy coconut milk. Bight, bold, but carefully balanced, you get a bit of everything—sweet, spicy, sour, salty, bitter, and umami—in each bite.

An Upward Spiral

Though typically served over fluffy jasmine rice or chewy noodles, spiralized sweet potatoes are the base of my bowl. Tender-crisp at first, they continue to soften as they sit in the hot sauce, adding a velvety texture towards the end of the meal. Complete with protein-packed tofu, it’s a healthy, hearty entree for any day of the week. Plus, the sauce can be prepared and saved for up a week in the fridge, so you can throw together this delicious dinner in mere minutes.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Upsetting The Balance

One of my favorite cookbooks is super upsetting. Prospective readers are warned of that fact right up front. A Super Upsetting Cookbook About Sandwiches by Chef Tyler Kord makes good on that threat right away, combining sweet and savory with such reckless creativity that it’s a marvel it all fits between two slices of bread. Though the book is hardly new, having been on shelves since its initial release in 2016, I still find myself thinking about it regularly, randomly, to this day. It’s the kind of cookbook that you actually want to read, cover to cover, before turning out the lights for bed, rather than doom scrolling through the darkness. It’s captivating, curious, confounding, infuriating, and shocking in all the right proportions. Oh yes, and from what I’ve tested and tasted, quite delicious.

I don’t subscribe to the idea of guilty pleasures, because all forms of joy should be embraced, but this is the closest I might come to that definition. I’ve kept this fixation to myself for years, despite it bubbling back up to the surface, demanding to be shared. The fact of the matter is, the recipes are almost besides the point. The stories are captivating, written in biting, self-aware, sarcastic and yet smart prose, like a stream of consciousness spontaneously composed at 2am after some regrettable decisions on the town. There is no fourth wall—there never has been—as you’re invited into the conversations between Mr. Kord and his editor, as if you’re there reviewing the raw manuscript with them.


Cookbook Photos by Noah Fecks

Sadly, No. 7 Sub, the sandwich shops in Midtown Manhattan and Brooklyn where it all started, is no more. Its memory lives on in these pages, left to home cooks to recreate, or further bend to their whims. Most famous perhaps is the Broccoli Classic, noteworthy for its inclusion of pickled lychees and crispy fried shallots. The Zucchini Parm is a bit more tame, making the obvious vegetable swap, but also adding BBQ potato chips, “just because I wanted them,” the author explains. Mr. Kord does marvelous things with meatless protein as well, as evidenced by the General Tso’s Tofu Sub, exemplifying fusion cuisine done right. Though not a vegan book or former restaurant by any means, it’s not hard to translate with the convenience of modern substitutions these days.

From my personal experience, The #2 Best New Sandwich In America In 2012 According To The Huffington Post, AKA Terrible and Unhealthy Cauliflower Sandwiches, are a brilliant combination, showcasing Mr. Kord’s understanding of flavor and textural contrasts, pushing the boundaries of classically accepted pairings into a new, wholly successful culinary realm. Roasted cauliflower is the centerpiece, supported by a raisin and scallion relish, smoked French dressing, and crushed potato chips. Because I’m a similar kind of crazy, I tweaked my assembly to use less oil in the dressing, turning it into more of a spread, and swapping the golden raisins for lightly sweetened cranberries. Sorry, not sorry for using store-bought chips; the merits of this combination still stand up to scrutiny.

If you want to be mildly disturbed by some authentically off-kilter, unconventionally intelligent ideas in food, you’ve come to the right place. I have yet to find a contemporary cookbook with nearly such reckless creativity, fearlessly self-aware of how marvelously upsetting it could be.

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments