Category: Baking / Cooking

Sleepy Martini

There is no greater tease than the espresso martini. Tall, sleek, and slender, the elegant glass is filled to the brim with dark amber liquid, topped with a velvety crown of foam. The very air around it seems to buzz with the aroma of roasted coffee. Should you succumb to temptation, you’ll get a jolt of caffeine, masking the intoxicating effects of the alcohol. Too boozy for breakfast but too stimulating for a nightcap, this classic cocktail remains firmly out of my reach when adhering to a rational schedule.

Odds Bar & Bistro – Decaf Espresso Martini

Surely, I can’t be the only one that wants to imbibe and still fall asleep at night. And yet, decaf coffee liqueur is simply not a thing. As one of three primary ingredients, this is a problem. There’s also the shot of straight espresso, but how hard is it to swap that for decaf in the first place? Really, it’s such an easy fix, it’s laughable.

When Is A Martini Not A Martini?

One thing that bothers me about the espresso martini, besides mixing uppers and downers, is that it really isn’t a martini at all. By definition, a martini is classically made with gin and dry vermouth, optionally garnished with an olive or a lemon twist. Strong, dry, and served straight up in a chilled martini glass, it’s the consummate definition of elegance.

The only thing that the espresso martini shares, like many other variants that rely on additional flavorings and sweeteners bolstered by vodka, is the glass. This is important to clarify not to belittle the espresso martini, but to free ourselves of the pretense that it must contain x, y, or z. For the espresso martini, there are no rules aside from stemware.

Robust and Relaxing

Writing out a recipe for something so simple feels silly, but I know just as well as anyone that a good recipe doesn’t have to be ground-breaking, ambitious, or even terribly innovative. It has to be delicious, of course, foolproof, and something you’d want to make again and again. That’s the case for this cocktail, which could be cut down to as few as three real ingredients at its core.

That’s part of the appeal, too; something that can be whipped up on the fly, even when your liquor cabinet is mostly empty, when friends show up unannounced, or when you just need something to take the edge off, post haste. This is the one that I’m shaking out more often than not, so I think you might enjoy it, too.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

In a Loaf Far, Farro Away

Whole wheat bread is out; farro bread is in. As we turn the pages to a new calendar year, it’s time for a fresh start, and a new approach to ancient grains.

When “Whole Wheat” Isn’t the Whole Story

Technically speaking, farro also qualifies as “whole wheat”, and more specifically, three types of whole wheat, as we touched upon when discussing emmer, the most popular type of farro. However, generic “whole wheat bread” most likely employs hard red wheat, which makes up approximately 40% of total U.S. wheat production. Nutty, robust, and high in protein, it’s no mystery why it became the poster child for wholesome baking, particularly following the counterculture movement of the 1970s, rejecting the processed white loaves proliferating on grocery store shelves. At the same time, it became the sworn enemy of many children bringing packed lunches to school, discovering those dark, dense, and bitter slabs imprisoning wan fillings, bereft of all fun. Whole wheat had soured many generations on the idea of a more wholesome loaf.

In an attempt to elevate the profile (and gluten structure) of whole wheat bread, many brands started producing “whole grain” bread, which was mostly white bread with a bit of color. The fact that they included any meager amount of whole grains gave them the legal grounds to use the label, much to the detriment of flavor and nutrition. If you ask me, they just started out by using the wrong whole wheat all along.

Farro For All

Farro bread isn’t something you’re likely to find in stores, nor is farro flour. That’s where Grand Teton Ancient Grains comes in. They have all three types of farro in stock; einkorn, emmer, and spelt. Better yet, you can grab a bag of ready-milled all-purpose einkorn flour so you can start preheating the oven that much sooner. Buying in bulk does make a compelling case for having your own grain mill, though, especially for breaking down those whole spelt berries. Consider it the best gift you didn’t get for the holidays and treat yourself to a better New Year.

Unlike modern hard red wheat, which has been bred for high yields, consistent protein levels, and machine-friendly milling, farro varieties hold on to traits that industrial agriculture left behind. Emmer and einkorn, for example, have naturally higher levels of carotenoids, which contribute to their flaxen color and subtle sweetness. Spelt tends to be more water-soluble, which is why dough made with it can feel slack even when the protein percentage looks high on paper. Their husked kernels also protect the grain from environmental stress, which is great for biodiversity but makes them harder to process. Grand Teton Ancient Grains is keeping history alive by putting these grains back on the table. You can truly taste that difference.

The Farro Trifecta in Action

All-purpose einkorn flour is the key to success. Soft as freshly fallen snow, it lightens the crumb both in texture and color, not to mention that stunning golden hue it imparts. Edging in on brioche territory, you’d think there was egg in the mix for all its richness. To that majority component, whole spelt flour adds an earthy undertone, grounding the flavor with notes of toasted walnuts and a subtle minerality. Most noticeable, whole cooked emmer berries are woven throughout the crumb, stealing the spotlight with their irresistibly chewy, hearty texture that adds a satisfying heft to every bite.

Altogether, it’s sturdy enough to slice thinly for sandwiches, and still soft enough to cut into thick slabs for dunking into soups, or simply eating plain. Truth be told, I ate roughly 75% of this particular loaf untoasted and unadorned, aside from the thinnest glaze of vegan butter smeared on top.

Rave-Worthy Results

I’m terminally intolerant of breathless hyperbole, deliberately honing my praise to a more reasonable tenor, but this one is hard to be modest about. Of all the loaves I’ve made, this is honestly one of my top five favorites, at least. Maybe even top three, but I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. It’s just as easy to whip up as any other humble sandwich bread, while having nuanced, complex flavor that you’d think could only come from a 24- or 36-hour ferment.

Better Living Through Baking

Make your New Year’s resolution to bake more bread from scratch. It’s a tangible, achievable goal with myriad benefits for health, sustainability, frugality, and honestly, happiness. Even on my worst days, a slice of warm farro bread has never failed to buoy my spirits.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Pleased as Ponche

Ponche is a lot of things, drawing parallels to innumerable other festive drinks. You could see it as being related to mulled cider, stewed with warm spices and served steaming on cold winter nights. The inclusion of fruits calls to mind sangria, even more so if it happens to be spiked, though more likely with brandy, rum, or tequila than wine. Fruit punch, of course, given that the name translates about the same, has an obvious relation. Mexican ponche, however, is its own unique party starter, even when it defies easy definition.

Paantsch, Ponche, Punch

Ponche has come a long way to reach its current destination as a Latin holiday staple. Originally from India, it was called “paantsch,” meaning “five,” and was accordingly made with five basic ingredients: alcohol, fruit juice, sugar, water, and spices. British sailors became hooked on the brew, bringing it with them on their travels to Europe and the West Indies, adapting it to use local fruits. The Spanish eventually introduced the drink to Mexico, where it was developed into the distinctive drink we know and love today, transformed by the native fruits of the Americas.

Key Ingredients

What makes Mexican ponche special is also what makes it difficult to replicate faithfully in different parts of the world. Key ingredients that may not be as common in US households include:

  • Piloncillo: Unrefined dark brown sugar, often sold in hard cones or blocks, to be chopped, grated, or dissolved in hot liquids, such as this.
  • Tecojotes: AKA Mexican hawthorn, similar to crabapples, they have a sweet and sour tropical flavor, and can be eaten both raw and cooked.

Fortunately, there are as many versions of ponche as there are people that make it, so there’s nothing wrong with a bit of improvising based on availability. This is one of those recipes that’s more like a set of guidelines than rules, open to interpretation as you please.

Serves You Right

Both a drink and a snack, a huge asset to busy hosts is the way it’s served as is, whole fruits and all. Guests can help themselves while the pot simmers gently on the stove, infusing the whole house with citrus and spice. Whether you chose to spike it or not, it’s sure to raise spirits with just one sip.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Nog Wild

Eggnog is like the festive Swiss army knife of the culinary world. Having such a distinctive flavor and singularly rich texture, it may seem like anything but a versatile multitasker, but there’s a world of possibilities lying just beneath the nutmeg-speckled surface.

Spiced Liquid Gold

Think about it: The base components for conventional eggnog are, of course, eggs, heavy cream, and sugar. What else starts from this foundation? Pretty much any dessert you can think of. While I wouldn’t be so bold as to claim that all vegan versions are created equal, they do reasonably approximate that same essential composition with a thickener/stabilizer, non-dairy equivalent, and sweetener. Just like that, you have a ready-made liquid custard in a carton.

Easy Eggnog Upgrades

Before we even get into the formal recipes, there are scores of treats you can make with zero measuring and minimal effort.

  • French toast: Simply use eggnog to soak sturdy slices of bread and griddle to crispy, custard-y perfection.
  • Bread pudding: Toss cubes of stale bread with eggnog, let it soak until saturated, then bake until golden and set.
  • Ice cream: Pour eggnog straight into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For the best results, add a splash of brandy or bourbon, both for flavor and a creamier, less icy texture.
  • Overnight oats: Mix with oats, a pinch of salt, and maybe some dried fruits and nuts. Wake up to an easy breakfast indulgence.
  • Coffee creamer: A splash in your morning brew turns it into a holiday latte without the syrupy sweetness of store-bought options.
  • Pancake or waffle batter: Replace the liquid in your mix with eggnog. Add an extra pinch of nutmeg to further the theme.
  • Cake glaze: Whisk with powdered sugar until smooth, then drizzle over pound cake or cinnamon rolls.

Honestly, I could go on, but it would become tiresome to read a laundry list of every cream-based option that could be converted to use this holiday staple.

Stock Up and Start Cooking

I always buy extra vegan eggnog, because it’s delicious, yes, but also because the leftovers are invaluable. Make sure you stock up early so you can make a few of my favorite nog treats. If you play your cards right, you can bask in the afterglow of holiday joy well into January.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)11 Comments

Devil’s Advocate

Deviled eggs are the ultimate in classy party food. With the air of high society and the accessibility of middle class, they’re just fancy enough to pass through both worlds with equal esteem. Popularized in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, they possess a certain retro chic while remaining a timeless staple. Hosts so well equipped as to own designated deviled egg trays, dimpled with indents specifically designed to cradle the elegant halves, clearly have it together.

The Devil That You Know

For all their enduring charm, deviled eggs are ripe for reinvention. This holiday season, I’d invite you to go one step further than crafting a vegan version. Lean into vintage cocktail kitsch and a healthy dose of playful absurdity with Deviled Eggnog Jello Shots; a boozy, bite-sized tribute to tradition with a twist. Surprisingly sweet for their savory appearance, they’re the kind of festive fun that keeps guests talking long after the last toast.

Sweet, Spiked, and Surprisingly Light

Much lighter than the conventional mug of heavy cream and whole eggs, these delicate, jiggly bites could be considered a smart approach to portion control, not to mention a far healthier alternative to the former cholesterol bomb. Airy egg whites made from vegan nog, spiked with light rum for a gentle buzz, become the convincing cushion to golden turmeric-infused coconut whipped cream. The effect is complete, and completely convincing, especially when sprinkled with a touch of ground nutmeg to garnish.

Achieving Egg-celence

Before you ask, yes, it’s worth investing in an egg-shaped silicone mold. If not for this treat, consider all the other egg-centric events when it will come in handy. Sure, you can use regular old plastic shot cups, but how many opportunities do you have to go all-out? Celebrate Christmas to the fullest, treat your friends and family to a slightly eccentric sweet surprise, and indulge in a new way to nog!

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Emmer-gence

“Emmer” may not ring a bell, but I have a feeling you know more about it than you think. Just flip its name tag over to the better known moniker of farro, and it’s like we’re talking about a whole different grain. Yes, misunderstandings about the title abound, so it’s long overdue that we set the record straight. Emmer is an ancient grain that deserves a spot on every modern table.

In a Land Far, Farro Away

What’s truly wild is how few people understand what exactly farro is. Still on the fringes of mainstream grocery stores, granted, it’s not at the top of the average eater’s grocery list. Farro became trendy in the US sometime around the 90s and 00s, alongside the boom of Italian imports like balsamic vinegar and olive oil that didn’t taste like rancid gasoline. However, what makes things more confusing is that no one grain is defined as farro. Rather, there are three types of farro:

  • Farro grande; spelt
  • Farro piccolo; einkorn
  • Farro medio; emmer

Emmer is the grain most commonly referred to as farro, when no other qualifiers can be found. Farro wheat, which is also classified as durum wheat, is defined by the way it grows, with two rows of grain on opposite sides of a single stalk.

Conveniently, Grand Teton Ancient Grains sells all three types, so you can see (and taste) the difference for yourself!

Emmer Through the Ages

Botanical semantics out of the way, emmer is one of the preeminent whole grains. Known as “Mother Wheat,” it was one of the first grains to be domesticated in the Near East over 10,000 years ago. A staple crop in ancient Israel and Egypt, it spread to Italy following the Roman invasion around 50 BCE, where it took root in the culture and remains a top crop to this day. The rest of Europe developed a taste for this high-protein whole grain as well, especially when it comes to bread making in Germany and Switzerland. It’s also a crucial ingredient in Ethiopia, where it’s enjoyed primarily as a hot porridge.

Emmer Is Good Eats

Flavor always comes first in my kitchen, which is why emmer has become a fast favorite around here, too. Nutty and complex, there’s a subtle taste that reminds me of fresh almonds when cooked, adding a gently sweet finish that tastes both honeyed and malted. Chewy and robust, the whole wheat berry stands up well to long-simmered soups and stews, never falling apart under pressure. That also makes it an excellent addition to salads, both hot and cold, and keeps beautifully for meal prep and travel. When ground into flour, it makes silky smooth batters, though it can create denser breads due to a lesser gluten content, compared to modern wheat varieties.

Nutritional Benefits for People and the Planet

Prized for its ability to thrive in poor soils and harsh climates, emmer is beloved by farmers as a sustainable superstar. It generally needs fewer chemical inputs like fertilizers and pesticides, and is more drought-tolerant than modern wheat. As beneficial to the planet as the people that eat it, consumers can reap the rewards of many trace minerals in every serving, including iron, zinc, magnesium, and niacin. It’s high in protein and fiber, making it a satisfying foundation to any meal. Being that it is a form of wheat, however, it is not gluten-free, and not appropriate for those with celiac disease. Some who are merely intolerant report better digestibility, since it has less gluten than conventional wheat varieties.

Emmer Everyday, in All the Ways

Is there anything that emmer can’t do? Found across cultures and continents, whole and ground, there’s always a place for it at the table.

  • Soups and stews: Perhaps best known in Tuscan zuppa di farro, these sturdy whole grains are the ideal swap for pasta in any minestrone, Italian wedding soup, cacio e pepe, and so much more.
  • Risotto: As a modern twist to the traditional rice dish, farrotto is just plain fun to say. Some renditions favor cracked or pearled emmer for their faster cooking times, and/or soak them in advance to help expedite the process.
  • Salads and pilafs: Served hot, at room temperature, or fully chilled, emmer won’t let you down at dinnertime. Pair it with hearty roasted vegetables or delicate leafy greens and fresh herbs
  • Breads: In India, the flour is known as khapli wheat and is favored for making whole grain roti, dosa, and paratha. Aish baladi, a flatbread very similar to pita, is an core Egyptian delicacy, frequently stuffed or torn into piece for dipping. European loaves often combine it with a sourdough starter for greater loft and nuanced flavor.
  • Sweets: Treats like cookies, pie dough, muffins, cakes, pancakes, and more can all benefit from an emmer underpinning. Dense like most whole wheat flours, it adds heft and a hearty bite, balanced nicely by sugar, and especially the addition of spice.
  • Porridge and hot cereal: Cooked either whole or coarsely ground, emmer makes an excellent breakfast meal. Depending on your preferences, it can be served with savory additions like chickpeas and za’atar, or sweet finishes like fresh berries and maple syrup.
  • Beer and spirits: Though a bit tricky to find in the US, emmer beer has been a brewer’s best friend for millennia. Emmer beer was once one of the healthiest ways to hydrate, before the days of clean water and further filtration. Some distillers take it a step further to make emmer whiskey, though the rarity of those bottles drives a considerable price tag. 

Other notable traditional dishes that defy easy categorization include torta a farro, a savory cake reminiscent of a frittata, arancini di farro, favoring emmer in the typical deep-fried rice ball, and adjar pilaf, an Armenian side dish with mushrooms and onions.

Cooking Tips and Tricks

Whole emmer wheat berries are incredibly forgiving when it comes to cooking. Treat them like beans for the best results; use plenty of water, simmer low and slow, and drain off the excess. Of course, you can always speed things up with a little help from your trusty pressure cooker.

  • On the stove top, start by rinsing 1 cup of whole emmer wheat berries under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Then, place them in a pot with about 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the grains are tender but still chewy. If you’re using pearled emmer, the cooking time may be closer to 25 – 30 minutes. Once cooked, drain any excess liquid and fluff the grains with a fork.
  • In a pressure cooker, combine 1 cup of rinsed emmer wheat berries with 2 1/2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Seal the lid and cook on high pressure for 20 – 25 minutes (or 12 – 15 minutes for pearled). Allow the pressure to release naturally for 10 minutes, then release any remaining pressure manually. Drain any excess liquid if needed, and the grains are ready to use.

Enjoy your emmer right away while still hot, or let cool completely, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 5 – 7 days. Consider keeping it in the freezer for long-term storage, up to 6 months, if you’d rather make bigger batches at a time.

Kasha is Out, Emmer is In

With Hanukkah looming right around the corner, Jewish comfort food has been top of mind. Kasha varnishkes aren’t making headlines like latkes and brisket, though they’re just as welcome at the holiday feast as they are on the average, everyday dinner table. “Kasha” means buckwheat and “varnishkes” refers to noodles, typically bow-tie shaped pasta, AKA farfalle in this case, fully explaining the simplicity and universal appeal of the dish. Bolstered by caramelized onions, the earthy whole grains add a comforting weight to al dente semolina pasta. It’s a beloved comfort food of Eastern European Jews through the generations. My unconventional suggestion is to drop the bitter buckwheat in favor of subtly sweet emmer berries.

Emmer Varnishkes are my contribution to the culinary canon. While buckwheat has its own old world charm, it tends to skew more bitter, grassy, and sometimes as earthy as a whole barnyard. The mild sweetness of emmer melds effortlessly with the richness of the dish, bringing out the complex chestnut and freshly popped popcorn notes. The key is to toast the emmer before simmering lightly salted stock, enhancing the naturally nutty flavor locked within. Then, perfectly befitting of the holiday, instead of schmaltz, olive oil honors the Hanukkah miracle, all while adding a peppery brightness.

Far-Out Emmer

If you’re a fan of farro, guess what? You’re already on board with emmer. Next time you see “farro” on a menu or in a recipe, you’ll know the story runs deeper than a trendy grain bowl. Emmer has nourished civilizations for thousands of years, and it’s still feeding our curiosity, and our appetites, today. Whether simmering in a soup pot, baked into bread, or starring in your next grain salad, there’s still so much more to discover with this ancient grain.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)13 Comments