The Khorasan Conundrum

You can separate the wheat from the chaff, but can you separate Khorasan from wheat? Wheat is all too often described as a single, homogeneous crop, flattened down to its most basic definition. It’s no wonder ancient grains are still so misunderstood. This most essential cereal is the umbrella term for a wide, diverse array of unique whole grains. Durum wheat may ring a bell, and bakers can probably tell the difference between hard red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter wheat. Khorasan, however, is also a type of wheat, but is largely overlooked, if not entirely unheard of.

It’s time we brought Khorasan back in to the spotlight as the superstar superfood it’s always been.

What is Khorasan and Where Did It Come From?

To be perfectly honest, up until Grand Teton Ancient Grains reached out to me and introduced me to this great grain, I was equally ignorant. Khorasan makes up a tiny fraction of wheat production globally, since modern varieties have been hybridized to be much more resistant to pests, have higher yields, and lower processing costs. That selective breeding has also nutritionally crippled most wheat on the market, but we’ll talk more about that in a bit.

Khorasan is named for the Khorasan region of Persia, encompassing parts of modern-day Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. It’s believed to have originated roughly 4,000 to 6,000 years ago from this Fertile Crescent. Grains resembling Khorasan have been found in Egyptian tombs, sometimes giving rise to the romantic moniker of “King Tut’s Wheat.” It didn’t reach the US until the 1940 following World War II.

So How Is Khorasan Related To Kamut®?

Kamut®, oh Kamut®, as if Americans weren’t already confused about their varieties of wheat. Kamut® is simply the trademarked brand name for Khorasan, as sold by one single company, Kamut® International. It’s the difference of bandage vs. BandAid® or copy machine vs. Xerox®, which is to say, mostly marketing and inflated costs.

What Does Khorasan Taste Like?

Two or three times larger than modern, mass produced wheat, these oblong, tawny brown kernels plump when you cook them, assuming a softer, rounder shape, almost like jumbo brown rice. Comparable to the subtle earthiness of spelt or farro, but with an added layer of buttery sweetness, Khorasan carries a natural nutty, toasted warmth and complexity. When cooked, especially as a whole grain, it reveals delicate caramel or honey-like undertones.

Cooked as a whole grain, it has a pleasantly chewy, plump bite, similar to barley but smoother and less gummy. Each kernel holds its shape well after cooking, offering a satisfying toothiness that makes it ideal for grain salads, pilafs, and soups. When ground into flour, Khorasan produces a soft, golden meal that yields tender baked goods with a slightly denser crumb than all-purpose flour. The gluten in Khorasan is less elastic than in modern wheat, which means bread made solely from Khorasan flour tends to be denser, but with a wonderful moistness and rich flavor.

How is Khorasan Used?

Besides eating the whole grain much like you would rice for pilafs, salads, risotto, and more, Khorasan is an incredibly versatile ingredient to use for a wide range of different applications.

  • Ground into flour: Milled into a soft, fine flour with a golden hue, Khorasan flour is a baker’s delight. It can be stone-ground or roller-milled, depending on the desired texture and application. The most popular uses are breads (particularly sourdough), pastas, crackers, cookies, and cakes.
  • Puffed: Using a high-heat, high-pressure machine (similar to the process used for puffed rice or puffed millet) causes the moisture in the grain to rapidly expand, “popping” the kernel into a fluffy yet crisp cereal.
  • Rolled or flaked: Steamed and flattened like rolled oats, rolled Khorasan wheat cooks more quickly and is easier to digest than whole berries. It’s ideal for making hot cereal, granola, and baking, anywhere you’d otherwise use oatmeal.
  • Sprouted: Soaked and allowed to germinate, the whole grain can be sprouted like seeds and legumes. They can be eaten fresh in salads and stir fries or dried and milled for inclusion in breads.

Khorasan, The Nutritional Breadwinner

Nutritionally dense, Khorasan is unique from other strains of wheat due to its impressive protein content, which is typically 14 – 17% (20 – 40% more than modern wheat). It also contains a small but meaningful amount of healthy fats, including essential fatty acids, and a moderate dose of dietary fiber to support digestion. On the micronutrient front, it lays claim to healthy amounts of magnesium, zinc, and selenium. Iron is also present in higher levels than in modern wheat, along with B vitamins like niacin (B3) and thiamin (B1).

Khorasan is not gluten-free, as it’s still a strain of wheat, though there’s anecdotal evidence that it may be easier for some with wheat sensitivities to digest. People with celiac disease should still sit this one out, sadly.

Cooking with Khorasan

If you find yourself with a generous bag of whole Khorasan berries from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, you don’t need a grain mill to get cooking. These whole grains have become a fast favorite for me because they’re almost impossible to overcook.

  • Soak Khorasan for 6 to 12 hours, and ideally overnight, to not only reduce the cooking time but also improve their digestibility. Simply cover the grains with a few inches of cool water in a bowl and let them sit at room temperature. Once soaked, drain and rinse the grains before cooking. If you choose not to soak, just be prepared to cook the grain longer to achieve the same tender texture.

  • For stove top cooking, combine 1 cup of dried Khorasan wheat with about 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover loosely, and let it cook. If the grains were soaked, they’ll typically be done in 30 to 40 minutes; unsoaked grains usually take 50 to 60 minutes. When done, they should be plump, tender, and pleasantly chewy, with no chalky center. Drain any excess liquid.
  • If you prefer a quicker method, Khorasan can be cooked in a pressure cooker. Use about 2 1/2 cups of water per 1 cup of grains. For unsoaked Khorasan, cook on high pressure for 30 to 35 minutes; soaked grains need only 20 to 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally and drain if needed.

Converting Classic Grain Dishes

The beauty of Khorasan is how effortlessly it can replace boring, bland, mushy long grain white rice. Don’t get me wrong, the latter still has its place in my pantry, but it’s all too often used in places where it just doesn’t belong. The beloved Broccoli Cheese Casserole is an obvious example. As a southern staple, it’s the easiest way to get a green vegetable into picky kids, since it’s mostly made of cheese and starch.

I love the idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. Cooked into oblivion, you don’t need to chew the end results. Khorasan is the solution to making a far more satisfying meal, with a real toothsome bite, along with more fiber to make it satiating beyond its soul-soothing, comforting taste.

My version naturally eschews the unctuous dairy foundation for a simple cheesy cashew sauce. Fresh broccoli, tossed right into the pan without any fussy blanching, stays tender-crisp instead of being cooked to death. This is the kind of dish you can bring to a potluck and watch disappear, before you can even utter the words “healthy” or “vegan.” Really, who needs the disclaimer in the first place? It’s simply delicious, feeding the heart, body, and planet all in one fell swoop.

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Parboiled and Hard Luck

It was an innocent mistake. Shopping hurriedly with one eye on the clock and the other on increasingly menacing crowds blocking the aisles, I just wanted to get in an out as quickly as possible. Having accomplished that, I discovered my folly once I was back in the safety of my home. Instead of plain, pedestrian, nothing special long grain white rice, what tumbled out of my canvas bag was a pouch of parboiled rice. Not a travesty by any means, but an oddity to be sure. Having never encountered it before, I was surprised to learn that it wasn’t the cheap, nutrient-stripped, processed food I had imagined, but in fact, an even more wholesome and robust alternative to regular white rice.

The Rice Is Right

The visual difference are subtle; easy to miss at first. Parboiled rice has a subtly translucent quality and slightly more yellow color when dry. After cooking, these differences disappear with the water they take on.

To Be Or Not To Be…

Parboiled rice is NOT the same as instant rice or quick-cooking rice. In fact, I find it takes longer to cook that standard long grain white rice; anywhere from 20 to 25 minutes simmering on the stove top, versus 12 minutes for the conventional option. This is because it’s not actually half-cooked, but soaked, steamed, and then dried before piling into packages. That makes the exterior more impervious to liquid infusion, taking longer to rehydrate, and then hold its shape better when cooked as a result. The texture turns out more toothsome and robust, with beautifully separate, discrete grains that won’t clump together.

Trust The Process

Before anyone starts decrying the “unnatural” manufacturing process to bring parboiled rice to the table, take a look at the alternative. White rice has the husk and bran stripped away, removing essential vitamins and minerals, not to mention most of the fiber and protein. Parboiled rice is steamed while still inside the husk, infusing many more of those nutrients right into the kernel, without giving you the same darker, earthier flavor of brown rice that some picky eaters find objectionable. What’s especially noteworthy about this process is that it creates resistant starch, which can act as a prebiotic, improving overall digestion.

Use Case Scenarios

At the end of the day, it’s just rice, which means it works perfectly in any recipe that you would pick long grain rice of any variety. To best leverage is unique properties that make it resistant to getting mushy, my top recommendations for uses include:

  • Fried rice – No need to let the cooked rice cool before throwing it into the wok! The starch is already gelatinized, which means it won’t continue to degrade or break apart in the pan.
  • Rice soup – While it will still continue to absorb the broth as it sits, it will do so at a much slower rate. If you cool the soup completely, add the cooked parboiled rice, and then store it in the fridge, the leftovers will reheat beautifully, without a giant ball of overcooked rice at the bottom.
  • Rice salad – Toss cooked and cooled parboiled rice with your favorite vegetables and vinaigrette, and you’ve got a picnic party stater that will keep all day, no matter the weather.
  • Stuffing – Shake up the usual wild rice affair next Thanksgiving with a crowd-pleasing parboiled rice base. In this case, it will cook much faster than the 50 to 60 minutes required for the semi-aquatic grass.

Par-Boiling Point

While I adore sticky rice, clumping together in chewy mouthfuls, the unique structure and discrete individual grains of parboiled rice turned out to be a surprisingly satisfying change of pace. Not all mistakes are bad, and this is one I’ll likely repeat on future shopping trips—albeit more intentionally.

Flat-Out Fabulous

Long before savory oats became the trendy breakfast du jour, poha has been the most important meal of the day for thousands of years.

As a daily oatmeal eater, it takes a lot for me to consider switching teams. Poha was the unexpected jolt of inspiration to break out of the routine for a low risk, high reward payoff.

What is Poha?

Poha is flattened rice, but the word is also shorthand for many of the dishes it creates. There are thin, medium, and thick flakes, producing a range of textures best suited for instant snacks, quick meals, or more time-consuming creations. They all cook more quickly than whole grain rice though, while retaining more vitamins and minerals than standard white rice.

Like Vietnamese broken rice, this unique format isn’t a defect but intentional feature. Modern factories use heavy rollers to flatten the grains just like rolled oats. Traditionally, and still to this day in some small villages, the rice is pounded by hand, earning the alternate description of “beaten rice.”

Chivda is a term that can be used interchangeably depending on the region, although it often refers to a thinner variety, dry-roasted with spices and enjoyed as a crispy snack.

What Does Poha Taste Like?

Very neutral in flavor as you’d expect from plain rice, the real attraction for poha is the texture. Soft, slightly sticky, tender, and easily yielding, it’s easy to eat and beloved by young and old. Thin poha tends to fall apart and become mushy when cooked, which is why it’s more popular when dry roasted. Medium and thick poha can have fluffier, separate grains

Regional Variations

India itself is a huge, diverse area encompassing many unique cultural identities, so it should come as no surprise that poha does as well. These variations are a testament to the versatility of poha, allowing individuals to customize their breakfast experience according to their preferences.

  • In Maharashtra, you’ll find Kanda Poha, where onions play a dominant role in the recipe.
  • Batata Poha, from Gujarat, incorporates potatoes for added substance.
  • In the north, you’ll encounter Indori Poha, which is boldly sweet and sour, tart and tangy, with plenty of heat in each bite.

How To Cook Poha

Though I naturally draw parallels between oatmeal and poha, there are notable differences in the cooking procedure and textural results. Rather than porridge or gruel, poha is dryer, more like pilaf, true to its rice base.

  1. Medium and thick poha needs to be rinsed to remove excess starch that would otherwise make the dish gummy or mushy. Place it in a fine mesh sieve and rinse it under running water for about 10 – 15 seconds. Gently swish the poha with your fingers while rinsing to ensure even coverage.
  2. Transfer the rinsed poha to a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak for 5 minutes to soften, which expedites the cooking process. Drain thoroughly so it doesn’t get waterlogged.
  3. Always stir gently to avoid breaking the flakes. Add your cooking liquid, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes, until soft and fluffy.

Breakfast All Day

Don’t forget, breakfast is truly a state of mind. Though it’s traditionally enjoyed as a morning meal, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoy poha for lunch or dinner, too. This version, redolent of toasted spices and finished with a bright splash of lime juice, is simple to make yet complex in taste. Basic pantry staples are the foundation that’s easily adapted to taste. Many also enjoy sweet poha, aligned with conventional American hot cereal with cinnamon and maple syrup, so don’t be afraid to experiment. These grains may be flat, but their flavor sure isn’t.

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Fusion Wok Star

We interrupt your regularly scheduled holiday programming for a tropical breath of fresh air.

Let’s be honest: Who hasn’t dreamed of escaping from this so-called winter wonderland in search of greener pastures? Feeling the warm sunshine beat down on bare skin, palm trees gently swaying in the wind, can instantly undo weeks of built up stress. Since jumping on an airplane isn’t an option for most of us, I have the next best thing: Mango-Pineapple Fried Rice.

Purely fusion cuisine that exists in no authentic culinary tradition, there are elements of many southeast cultures mashed up into one hot bowl of whole grains.

  • Chinese sweet and sour sauce comes through from the combination of tangy pineapple and salty soy sauce.
  • Thai inspiration is found in juicy bites of mango, in sharp contrast to hot fresh chilies.
  • Indonesian elements like coconut oil and peanuts add body, depth, and richness.

The secret to creating such a harmonious yet complex balance of disparate flavors is to start with salsa.

Yes, you heard me right! Sam’s Fresh Mango Pineapple Salsa is a perfect companion to chips and guacamole, of course, but also a brilliant meal starter. Instead of shopping and chopping each individual component, this intensely flavorful base is ready to go right away. You can purchase Sam’s Fresh Salsa at ShopRite, Acme, and Safeway. If they are not in your local store, ask them to carry Sam’s Fresh Salsa products!

It’s easy to make the best fried rice with a few quick tips:

  • Most American or Americanized recipes use long grain white rice for stir fries. There’s nothing wrong with this, and you’re welcome to substitute your favorite, but I prefer medium or short grain, such as arborio or sushi rice. I find it stays chewier without drying out, and forms very satisfying little clumps that are easy to pick up with chopsticks.
  • Ideally, cook the rice a day or a few hours in advance to make sure it’s completely cool, if not downright cold. You want the starch to congeal a bit, which is what browns so nicely on the outside when you saute it.
  • Use very, very high heat. The cooking process is very fast since you just want to sear the rice that’s already fully cooked and otherwise ready to eat.

Wish me luck, because this fiery little entree is my entry Sam’s Fresh Salsa Blogger Recipe Challenge! Contest aside, I can already tell you this recipe is a real winner.

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Meant To Be Broken

If it’s not broken, don’t fix it. If it already is broken, it might not need fixing in the first place.

Broken rice (Cơm Tấm) is intentionally fractured, not defective. Once upon a time, in the earliest days of milling and manufacturing, it did begin life as the cheaper alternative to pristine long rice, though that’s no longer the case. In fact, it can command a premium price, especially overseas where it’s harder to find. Stumbling upon it randomly while perusing the endless aisles at MT Supermarket, I knew I hit the jackpot.

Contrary to the negative implications that might be associated with a “broken” item, it’s just as nutritious as any other whole grain. In fact, it has the added benefit of cooking more quickly due to the shorter, fragmented pieces.

If you think regular white rice is a brilliant blank canvas for soaking in flavorful sauces, just wait until you break this party up; impossibly porous, this segmented cereal drinks in every last drop like an edible sponge. Soft, sticky, tender yet toothsome, you get the best of all textures in every bite.

You could enjoy it in any other short grain rice recipe for a change of pace, though it’s most popular in Vietnam as street food. Flanked by pork chops, fried egg, meatloaf, pork skin, and sweet fish sauce, you would be hard pressed to find a dish any less vegan.

Rather than attempting to twist this dish into something utterly unrecognizable to accommodate my demands, I was inspired to break up with tradition and try a fresh approach.

Fragrant, subtly sweet, delicate and supple, this exquisite cracked cereal shines with a gentle approach to seasoning. Slightly nutty, warm and toasted, yet also bright and floral with hints of citrus, it’s already quite a prize cooked only in plain water. It would be a grave disservice to the grain if such a wealth of flavor was obscured. Thus, I merely accentuated the natural complexities locked within, adding a touch of sugar, salt, and a few drops of lemongrass oil. Butterfly pea tea (“blue matcha”) provides a bold blue hue, but the rich palate of flavors outshines even that vibrant veneer.

Serve with ripe mango, papaya, peaches, coconut, or any fresh fruit, really. Feel free to experiment! You can’t mess this one up; it’s already broken.

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Fee, Fi, Fo, Fonio

Move over, quinoa; there’s a new ancient grain in town. Protein-rich, gluten-free, and quick-cooking, fonio is the best kept secret in wholesome superfoods. Though little known in the western world, this African staple has all the makings of the next big healthy craze.

Neutral yet subtly nutty in flavor like good old brown rice, fluffy like fresh couscous, and faster to whip up than a pot of pasta, the only barrier to mainstream adoration is distribution. Though the supply chain is especially stressed by the current pandemic, fonio has long suffered from inaccessibility. No one’s out there flying the fonio flag, demanding more, so most consumers and home cooks simply don’t know what they’re missing. They say ignorance is bliss, but this is more akin to an act of negligence, cruel and careless.

Uses for fonio know no limits. Receptive to marinades and sauces the world over, it thirstily drinks in the flavors of a stew while retaining toothsome tenderness. Use it cold in salad; serve it hot as a side; form it into patties and pan fry; blend it into batters, cakes, and cookies; don’t even bother cooking it, and use it instead of breadcrumbs; the only way you can do fonio wrong is to keep it off the menu.

For basic cookery, all you need is 1 part fonio to 2 parts boiling water. Combine and let rest for about 5 minutes, fluff with a fork, and enjoy. You don’t need a stove, a microwave, or even electricity; it’s really that simple. Your hard work will be rewarded with a nutritional dynamo, rich in B-vitamins, iron, and calcium.

That said, there’s no need to stick with the bare basics, of course.

Golden grains spring to life with savory aromatics and a touch of spice. It’s the kind of side dish that could very well steal the show, and considering the protein quotient, which is bolstered by tender chickpeas, it’s not a stretch to call it a one-pot meal all by itself. Kernels of corn enhance the sunny yellow appearance, but a bit of contrast would be a nice option, be it from green peas, red bell peppers, or even dark, chewy raisins.

Oh, little fonio, this is just the start. There are big things in store for this tiny grain. Just wait until the rest of the world catches on. Quinoa had better watch its back.

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