Know Your Onions

I have a question for you, and I want you to really think hard on it. Take a minute to comb through your memory archives before answering. It’s imperative that you mull it over, forward and backwards, backwards and forwards again.

Have you ever eaten a dish and thought, “there are too many onions in this.”

No. The answer is no. Unless you took a chomp out of a whole raw onion, it’s not humanly possible. Cooked onions in any form have no limit. No point of diminishing returns. Sauteed, fried, caramelized, dried, and even steamed or boiled; onions are the unassailable backbone of all cuisine.

French Onion Soup puts onions back on the pedestal where they belong. Not lurking in the shadows, hidden from the spotlight while doing all of the real work behind the scenes, it’s one of the few dishes where they get to shine. Even self-proclaimed vegetable haters will go to town on this steakhouse classic, luxuriously rich despite sporting the most basic of ingredients.

This concept is nothing new. My version isn’t special. It is, however, delicious, and delicious things are best shared. In case you didn’t already have a French onion soup in your repertoire, consider this the one to save.

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Fisherman’s Lure

If there’s any dish that represents the history and heritage of San Francisco, it’s cioppino. Even more so than the storied loaves of sourdough bread produced in droves around the bay, this humble yet simultaneously opulent dish has sustained generations. Tomatoes and seafood meet in an herbaceous broth spiked with white wine, embodying elegance without ostentation. It’s the working person’s humble indulgence, paying homage to the bounty of the region. The lack of plant-based seafood options put me off of attempting to replicate it for far too long. It turns out, nature already has a fantastic alternative to offer: mushrooms.

Mushrooms: The New Seafood

Yes, of course mushrooms! Varieties like king oyster mushrooms, maitake (AKA, hen of the woods), and shiitake, all featured prominently in this rich brew, make excellent seafood alternatives for a few key reasons:

  • Texture: Mushrooms have a naturally meaty and chewy texture, especially the small, thick caps of Donko Sugimoto Shiitake, evocative of scallops or shrimp when cooked.
  • Umami: Mushrooms, particularly dried shiitake, are rich in umami, which is also a crucial tasting note found in seafood. This depth of flavor comes from compounds like glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate, which are the uniquely potent trio that Sugimoto Shiitake brings to the table.
  • Absorbency: Mushrooms are known for their ability to absorb and enhance the flavors of whatever they are cooked with. When seasoned with seafood-like ingredients (such as seaweed, lemon, garlic, and herbs), mushrooms can take on flavors that mimic those of the sea.
  • Nutrition: While mushrooms don’t provide the same exact nutritional profile as seafood, they do offer important nutrients, including protein, fiber, and various vitamins and minerals.

Chip In For Cioppino

Legend has it that fishermen of yore would all “chip in” a bit of the day’s catch to make a communal vat of stew to share, and if you can imagine that with an Italian accent, the origin of the name would be clear. Others, however, see a more concrete link through the Italian word “ciuppin,” which means “to make soup from fish” or “little soup” in Ligurian dialect. In either case, it illustrates the beauty of this dish, which is infinitely adaptable. Built upon whatever was available at the end of a hard day’s work, there are no hard and fast rules. Had those founding San Franciscans set off into the forests instead of the sea, I’m confident there would be more foraged finds, like earthy wild mushrooms, added to the pot.

Cook Quickly, Savor Slowly

Romantic as the ideas of soup simmering on the stove may be, rarely do I have the time to babysit an all-day affair like that. Instead, I’m coming in hot with a quick-fix approach, taking advantage of my trusty pressure cooker. After sautéing the aromatics, it only takes 10 minutes under pressure to yield buttery-soft mushrooms and meltingly tender vegetables. Should you still want to take this to the stove, it’s easily feasible in an hour or two, tops.

Souper Stew

Cioppino is a complete thought, and thus, a complete one-pot meal. That said, it does beg for a wedge of crusty bread (yes, sourdough) to best sop up all the rich broth. If you’re having friends over and want to stretch it further, a peppery arugula salad would be an excellent counterpoint and of course, it pairs beautifully with a dry white wine. Plan to buy an extra bottle, just in case.

Tides of Change

Just as the tides of San Francisco Bay ebb and flow, so too does the legacy of cioppino evolve, shaped by time, necessity, and now, compassion. While the classic version pays tribute to seafaring traditions, this mushroom-forward interpretation speaks to a modern mindset, valuing sustainability without sacrificing depth of flavor. It’s remarkable how these humble fungi can bridge such a wide culinary gap, offering a taste of the ocean while staying firmly rooted to the forest floor. Tradition isn’t something we preserve—it’s something we reinvent.

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Debunking The Detox

I’m vehemently against the entire concept of a detox. Our bodies are quite good at detoxifying themselves naturally, thank you very much. Even if there was some need for an assist, you’d better believe that a brief regime of liquefied vegetables wouldn’t be the cure. Despite that, I’m willing to make peace with the Green Detox Broth from The Soup Peddler on the grounds of improper naming.

It strikes me as one big mistake. For starters, it’s no mere broth, but a thick bowlful of hearty soup, given body from an abundance of pureed zucchini and broccoli. The only thing true about the moniker is that it’s green. Simple, soothing, and undeniably nutritious, I’m not mad at the savory brew itself. I’d just like to see the peer-reviewed studies that show its efficacy in cleansing.

Intoxicating Flavors

Whatever imagined impurities it’s meant to banish aside, the greatest asset of all is that The Soup Peddler has made this recipe available online. Though I refuse to call it by its original name, the basic concept is an essential staple here. I’ve made just a few small tweaks and offer additional options for adaptation, if you’re a detox deviant like me, too.

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Bean Counter

Peanuts are legumes, so why don’t more people treat them as such? Crunchy when toasted, creamy when blended, and inescapably rich in natural oils, they do indeed behave more like nuts, but I can assure you, these babies are beans all the way through. That’s not just some fun trivia to impress at dinner parties. The distinction between nuts and legumes changes how I’ve come to think about them in the kitchen. Nomenclature and botany aside, treating peanuts like beans flips the script in a whole new savory direction.

It all started with boiled peanuts. Slowly simmered inside once brittle shells, they soften to become the southern answer to edamame in their pods. Tender, flavorful, buttery, and briny, this classic preparation hints at their versatility and full culinary potential. Take it a step further with more liquid, and eventually, you’ll end up with peanut soup.

Groundbreaking Groundnuts

Peanut soup isn’t a groundbreaking concept, but one that’s ripe for reimagination. It has deep roots in West Africa, where peanuts, AKA “groundnuts,” have long been a staple. They meet with fiery chilies, ginger, cumin, and more, singing with the heat and intensity of African cuisine. When enslaved Africans were brought to the Americas, they brought their culinary traditions along with them, including the technique of using peanuts as a base for rich, savory soups.

The South, particularly Virginia, where peanuts have been grown since the 18th century, has adopted a milder, more delicate spin on peanut soup. It’s a simple affair that starts with onions and celery, uses flour as a thickener, and is enriched with heavy cream. Building that concept out into a more well-rounded snapshot of southern fare, it seemed a crime that no one ever thought to invite collard greens to the party.

The Southern Twist

In my mind, collard greens are the stalwart champions of Southern cuisine. Growing like weeds, bitter yet beguiling, their abundance is a testament to the tenacity of their keepers. Their earthy tartness perfectly balances the rich, nutty sweetness of peanuts in this velvety blend. Using crunchy peanut butter is the shortcut that ensures a perfect consistency, with toothsome bites of chopped peanuts and a silky-smooth base, all at once. Celery, naturally salty, is another essential vegetable that gets little fanfare in most recipes. Their feathery leaves are the final garnish that brings the whole dish together, echoing the sauteed base of aromatics within.

Know Your Beans

Peanuts are a curious contradiction in the culinary world. Though they behave like nuts, look like nuts, and taste like nuts, they’re beans, through and through. Often relegated to sweet treats or snack foods, recognizing them as beans opens up a whole new realm of savory possibilities. Peanut soup takes peanuts back to their roots, and puts them back at the center of the menu. Hearty enough to beat back the cold of any winter, this is one easy, tasty way to make peanuts worth more than a hill of beans.

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Fiddle-Faddle Flädle

If you think about it, it’s a very fine line that divides bread and pasta. Leaveners; baking vs boiling; otherwise, it could be the same dough. There’s much more nuance to it, of course… And that’s where things get interesting.

Crepes, AKA pancakes, AKA pan-fried bread, could bridge that divide with remarkable ease. Such thin strips of a lightly toasted wheat batter are tender lengths of linguine waiting to happen. That’s the basic premise behind fläedlesuppe. Swirling in a clear broth, they add body to a brilliantly simple dish, the essence of comfort in a bowl. If you’ve enjoyed the warmth and soul-restorative powers of chicken noodle soup, you already know how compelling this combination can be.

We have the creativity of early Swabians to thank for this specialty. Flädle itself refers to the paper thin pancakes that are rolled and then sliced into delicate ribbons. Traditionally, fläedlesuppe consists only of these sliced crepes and a rich beef broth, perhaps with a few flecks of scallions or chives for color. In Austria, it’s known as frittatensuppe and in France, consommé célestine is essentially the same thing, though sometimes the pancakes are filled with cheese, as the French are apt to do.

Theoretically, it’s a brilliant way to use up leftovers, but practically, who has leftover crepes or pancakes? These are worth making fresh for the sole purpose of swimming in soup. There’s really nothing else to the dish, nothing more to be cooked, so it’s not any more work than it takes to whip up your average stack of flapjacks. If anything, it’s an ideal opportunity to practice your flipping skills; even if they end up torn or misshapen, they’ll just be sliced up anyway.

Especially on cold days, flädlesuppe feels like a warm embrace. It’s a dish that offers comfort in its simplest form—nourishing, soothing, and unpretentious. I see it as a very hopeful dish too. If bread can also be noodles, anything is possible. Even the most basic ingredients can turn into something extraordinary with creativity and care.

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Garlic Breath

Be it a delicate broth or thick stew, nothing completes a steaming bowlful like a hearty slice of bread. Crackling crust giving way to a spongy matrix of soft crumbs, each bite melts into submission when dipped into the soup of the day. Sometimes the soup is merely a thinly veiled excuse to reach for another helping of bread, so compellingly that fresh loaf does beckon.

Garlic Bread Soup: Quick Comfort In A Bowl

Let’s just cut to the chase here and turn the bread into the soup itself, with a powerful blast of fresh garlic to up the ante. Save yourself the hassle of peeling the cloves by grabbing a bag of prepped garlic in advance, or going straight for a jar of minced, but don’t cut back on the full measure. Garlic bread lives or dies on the pungency of that stinking rose, and once lightly caramelized in peppery olive oil, all the harsh edges will soften.

Perhaps it’s not fodder for a first date, but this velvety smooth base is just the beginning to a whole different sort of love affair.

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