Tag: snack

A Night Market To Remember

Have you ever had an insatiable craving for a food you’ve never had? Like nostalgia for something you’ve never done before, it feels so intimately familiar, so deeply embedded within your psyche, that it’s impossible to separate from your actual lived experience. For me, such is the case for Taiwanese popcorn chicken.

I can smell the fragrant oil infused with five spice and soy sauce, feel the crisp batter shattering between my teeth, and taste the heady umami of the entire composition blending into one arresting high note, like a flavor so loud you can actually hear it. Forgive me for waxing poetic, but if there was ever a dish to command such flowery prose, this is it.

Ingredient Upgrades

For me, the barrier to recreating my false memory of Taiwanese popcorn chicken isn’t replacing the poultry. Thick, juicy Donko Sugimoto shiitake mushroom caps, which come with the added bonus of ample umami already built in, make that a snap. Rather, it’s the mental block I encounter when considering deep-frying foods. Tending all that scalding hot oil just isn’t a fun prospect when cravings strike, which is why I opted for the healthier, less dangerous approach of air frying. Don’t worry, it’s not a sacrifice; the results are every bit as golden brown, crispy, and delicious.

Shining a Light on Taiwanese Night Market Street Eats

Taiwanese popcorn chicken, or yan su ji (鹽酥雞), is a beloved street food that’s a fundamental pillar of Taiwan’s bustling night markets. Quick to prepare, cheap, and easy to eat without breaking your stride, this snack is often served out of bags and eaten using toothpicks. Meant for sharing, perfect to pair with a few drinks, it’s a solid plan to either kick off or wind down your evening with an order.

Unforgettable Flavors

Deceptively simple, as many of the best things are, because the secret is in the seasoning. White pepper and Sichuan peppercorns create a warm, tingling heat that grows without stinging the sinuses, introducing a mala (mouth-numbing) sensation with a citrus-y brightness. You can feel the flame without getting burned, wild as that may sound. It’s hard to describe because it’s more than a basic flavor, which is a large part of the appeal.

Fresh basil leaves get the same treatment, fried for just a moment, until crisp and almost translucent. Balancing out the complete array of flavors with an herbal, sweet, and pungent finish, it’s another example of contrasting elements working in harmony. It’s a perfect microcosm of Taiwan’s approach to food: bold, intricate, and crafted with finesse.

Swaps and Substitutions

Given such a short list of ingredients, each one counts. Donko Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms are a non-negotiable. Firmer and thicker than plebeian shiitakes, they have a deeper, more concentrated and intense umami flavor to match. If you don’t spring for the real deal, it won’t measure up. Aside from that core component, there is some room for adaptation and substitutions:

  • Soy Sauce – Tamari or coconut aminos are great swaps, and you can opt for low-sodium versions if you’d like.
  • Chinkiang (Zhenjiang) Black Vinegar – Sweeter and more mellow than most vinegars, this is one I could drink straight from the bottle. In a pinch, aged balsamic can take its place.
  • Five-Spice Powder – Ratios vary depending on who you ask, but here’s how I like to mix mine up at home. Combine 2 Tablespoons Ground Star Anise, 2 Tablespoons Crushed Cinnamon Stick Pieces, 2 Teaspoons Ground Fennel Seeds, 2 Teaspoons Ground Ginger, and 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cloves in a coffee or spice grinder and pulverize everything to a fine, consistent powder.
  • Granulated Sugar – It’s a teeny tiny mount, but if you must keep things strictly sugar-free, use a drop of liquid stevia or monk fruit concentrate instead.
  • White Pepper – Ground ginger or mustard, while not an exact match, can fill the gaps, though I’d strongly suggest you not trying to make this trade for best results.
  • :Tapioca Starch, Cornstarch, or Potato Starch – Still need more options? Fine! Pick a starch, any starch: Arrowroot, wheat starch, sweet potato starch, cassava flour, rice flour or any combination should do the trick.
  • Sichuan Peppercorns – There’s no replacing the mala sensation, but you could create a reasonably satisfying piquancy with ground black pepper and a pinch of lemon zest.
  • Shiitake Powder or MSG – You can never have too much umami. Though optional, these put the dish over the top.

Memories In The Making

Even without legitimate memories of Taiwanese popcorn chicken, popcorn shiitake far exceeds them. Rich, meaty shiitake mushrooms have a big umami advantage, and use a fraction of the oil it would take for the traditional deep-fried approach. You get all the spicy, crispy, savory satisfaction to create a fresh, lasting impression—for real this time.

Continue reading “A Night Market To Remember” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Choke Artist

Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.

What’s In A Name?

When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.

Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen

With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.

  1. Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
  2. Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
  3. Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
  4. Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
  5. Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
  6. Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
  7. Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.

One Killer App

Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.

The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.

Culinary Renaissance

Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.

Continue reading “Choke Artist” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Nuts To Nog

Christmastime without eggnog would be simply nuts. Nuts that taste like eggnog, however, and that’s how you get into the spirit!

Eat, Drink, and Be Merry

For yet another year, I’ve been denied the pleasure of creating a new Nog-Off, with only one fresh contender of note. I will not, however, be denied my nog. For someone who’s never had the original egg- and dairy-based beverage, it has a hold on me like few other foods. And yes, though it is a drink, I think it’s substantial enough to qualify as a food too. That much is certainly true when you factor in a generous handful of crisp, freshly toasted nuts.

Nut Nog or Nog Nuts?

Nut nog is nothing new, of course, with some of the most popular recipes beginning with reliable old raw cashews, blended into creamy submission. What I’m talking about is a snack that straddles the line with dessert, could be served as a party starter or wrapped up as a gift at the end of the night, and has all the hallmarks of eggnog.

Aromatic nutmeg, bourbon, eggy kala namak, a touch of umami nutritional yeast, and lightly caramelized sugar all swirl together in a heady glaze that lacquers any combination of pecans, almonds, cashews, walnuts, pistachios, and so forth, that your heart desires. In fact, I even snuck in some pepitas for a subtly seasonal addition, so I’m calling seeds fair game, despite the official title.

Use Your Coconut

Coconut milk powder is a specialty ingredient that gives the mixture an additional richness, seeming to melt like freshly fallen snow, while creating a lightly frosted appearance. It’s entirely optional, so don’t fret if you can’t find it. Alternately, you can replace the alcohol with full-fat coconut cream, adding in a small splash of bourbon flavoring at the end if desired.

As the holidays descend and the festivities unfold, don’t let the absence of traditional eggnog dim your spirits. Embrace the joy of eggnog candied nuts; a sweet and savory blend that captures the essence of the season in every crunchy bite. Whether you’re sharing it at a gathering, gifting it to loved ones, or hoarding it all for yourself, this novel approach is sure to add cheer to the occasion, all without raising a glass.

Continue reading “Nuts To Nog” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Iron Chef

Ruddy brown, smooth, and gleaming like polished river rocks, iron eggs don’t immediately stand out as a potential taste sensation. Hard cooked, then re-cooked, and re-cooked yet again, these Taiwanese specialties may have been created by accident, but they’ve clearly stuck around on purpose. Naturally, we have many options aside from eggs to apply this technique, which is how my Iron Tofu came about.

What Are Iron Eggs?

Iron eggs, or “tiědàn” (铁蛋), have a short but rich history dating back to Tamsui District in Taiwan. Legend says they were invented by a noodle stall owner in the 1970s, trying to keep their eggs hot and ready for customers who just weren’t buying. After hours of cooking, cooling, cooking, and cooling, what were originally basic red cooked eggs became dark, hard, and chewy. Today, they’re a beloved street food and a staple at night markets, especially given that this technique effectively preserves eggs without refrigeration.

What Do Iron Eggs Taste Like?

Despite the name, they’re not made of iron, nor are they particularly iron-rich. The metallic title comes from the repeated stewing process, where the eggs are simmered for hours in a dark, flavorful broth of soy sauce, spices, and black tea leaves. This imbues them with a deep brown color, a chewy texture that’s reminiscent of beef jerky, and a complex symphony of sweet, savory, and slightly spicy flavors.

Making Vegan Iron Eggs

Tofu, the Swiss army knife of plant protein, makes an incredibly convincing substitute for the conventionally mandated quail or chicken eggs in this instance. While they won’t have the distinctive divide between yolk and white, the cooking process effectively makes the two layers impossible to discern from one another in any case. Rather, super firm tofu already has half of the work done for you, without any pressing necessary, creating Iron Tofu in half the time it would take to make iron eggs.

Ironclad Good Eats

Iron tofu is ready to eat as a standalone snack, perfect for whenever you might otherwise reach for a protein bar or jerky. Otherwise, it’s an excellent addition tossed into salads, on top of rice bowls, or diced finely and mixed into soups, stews, or stir fries. Intensely flavorful, a little bit goes a long way in any dish. Personally, I’m perfectly content to munch on them out of hand, paired with a cold beer or sweet bubble tea for contrast, as the perfect afternoon pick-me-up or late-night nosh.

Continue reading “Iron Chef” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

A Pretty Big Dill

Vegan cheese is booming. Long viewed as the final frontier for plant-based diets, the last holdout for hesitant omnivores, the choke-hold that Big Dairy has had on the industry is finally losing its grip. Still, the gap between accessible, everyday melting cheeses and gourmet cheeses fit for a charcuterie board is a wide, cavernous divide. When you want something nicer than generic cheddar-like shreds but not quite a triple cream brie, where’s there to turn?

Your own kitchen, of course.

Anyone who claims it’s impossible to make remarkable plant-based blocks and wedges at home clearly hasn’t even tried. There’s a hundred ways to go about it, but I happen to think that my latest approach especially is a pretty big dill. Dill Havarti, a soft, mild, and buttery cheese that originated in Denmark in the 19th century, is still a rare find in the dairy-free space. Distinctively fresh, herbal, and slightly tangy, it’s a timeless flavor combination and yet at the same time, an ideal option for celebrating spring.

It Slices! It Shreds! It Spreads! Yes, It Even MELTS!

When enjoyed within the first few hours, the texture is soft enough to use a schmear on bagels and toast. Once rested overnight, it solidifies into a proper soft block, fit to be sliced, shredded, and cubed at will.

Naturally, this beautiful block is 100% vegan and thus:

  • Dairy-free

But also made of pantry staples that make it affordable, accessible, and:

  • Oil-free
  • Nut-free
  • Seed-free
  • Gluten-free
  • Sugar-free

What About Carrageenan?

Don’t fall for the negative press surrounding this unnecessarily controversial ingredient. Carrageenan is derived from red seaweed, commonly used for its gelling, thickening, and stabilizing properties. Despite some health myths circulating, scientific studies have shown that carrageenan is perfectly safe for consumption. Agar, beloved by the vegan community for decades, has a lot in common.

Kappa carrageenan specifically is unique in making a stable gel that can be melted again after being set, creating something much more similar to dairy cheese. The structure itself is softer and creamier, as opposed to an agar gel that has a short, stiff bite. There’s nothing I would recommend as a reasonable substitute; it’s worth buying a bag online, especially when you consider how much money it can save you compared to buying artisan vegan cheese.

Better, Healthier Cheese For All

After going through untold amounts of pricey cashews and coconut oil, I can’t imagine going back. There’s nothing wrong with craving a better plant-based cheese than what’s on the market, no matter how many choices already exist. Until someone else steps up their dill Havarti game to produce something dairy-free on a larger scale, this is the only game in town. Luckily, it’s a win-win every time.

Continue reading “A Pretty Big Dill” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments