Tag: side dish

Unseasonable, Not Unreasonable

Eggplant and tomatoes, in the dead of winter? Oh no, that’s not very seasonal of me. Such a terrible faux pas, such an obvious insult to The Natural Order Of Things. I should have just saved this for a few months and pretended it was devised in that moment, in the warm sunshine of late June, when flowers are blooming and an abundance of produce explodes back into farmers markets. I did consider it, strongly, but I also considered the fact that a little bite of summer in the middle of a dark, cold, forbidding day might be what we all need.

Let’s not kid ourselves: these ingredients are still in grocery stores across the world. It doesn’t matter where you live, or where the vegetables came from, because they’ll find their way to your local market whether you like it or not. We can thank globalization and climate change equally for that. In no way would I suggest that they’ll be as flavorful and ambrosial as peak season produce, locally grown in organic soil, mind you. I’m only suggesting that we have the option to indulge, in this small way, as a preview of what’s to come. When you need a little reminder that there’s a light at the end of the tunnel, you already have the tools to see it. These vegetables will exist anyway; it would be a shame to let them languish, unloved.

Graffiti eggplant is a particularly arresting specimen, striped as if colored with gentle brushstrokes of glossy purple paint. No different from Italian globe eggplant otherwise, in terms of shape, size, or flavor, but an eye catching reminder that the fruit itself exists (and yes, it is a fruit, botanically speaking.) Best when on the smaller size to reduce the amount of watery seeds, it cooks quickly and easily in the air fryer. Sure, it would no doubt be brilliant on the grill, but let’s not forget about the actual temperature outside right now. Tender to the point of melting onto your fork, that silky sensation is heightened against the cool, toothsome pop of raw cherry tomatoes. Basil, the harbinger of midsummer revelry, feels mandatory in this situation, bright and citrus-y, bold and fresh.

That’s all it is: Eggplant and tomatoes. I would apologize for my crime against sustainability, but honestly? I have no remorse. In fact, I’d do it all again, and encourage you to as well. Like celebrating Christmas in July, sometimes we need to do what brings us the most joy, not what makes the most logical sense.

Continue reading “Unseasonable, Not Unreasonable” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Turnip The Beet

As much as I love a good food pun, I swear, this was completely unintentional. Up until the moment I started peeling away the outer skin, I thought for all the world that I was working with rutabaga. Then, that distinctive smell hit me; sharp and pungent, more like a radish than the sweet and starchy tuber I expected. Simply trying to use up odds and ends after another recipe photo shoot, I suppose it was fate that pumped up the volume to create these accidental turnip and beet hash browns.

Fleeced by Flannel

Red flannel hash is simply your traditional potato-based hash with addition of chopped beets, tinting all the spuds a rich ruby hue. You could perhaps squint and see it as a checkerboard arrangement with all its squares overlapping hues to account for the name. That said, it’s a bit of a misnomer because flannel itself is simply a woven fabric, regardless of pattern, despite the frequent association with a plaid or tartan. Semantics aside, it’s a humble, hearty, and comforting breakfast staple that will never let you down. Potatoes aren’t the only vegetative foundation that can support the concept.

Root Revelry

Sitting on the outskirts of most mainstream markets, turnips and rutabagas have more in common than not. You’d be forgiven for making the same mistake. Both come from the cabbage family and have a very similar appearance. Pale beige with a purple top, it’s easy to mix them up at a glace. Turnips are a bit rounder and more pale, whereas rutabaga have a darker, more yellow tint and tend to be a bit more oblong. As far as flavor goes, turnips have a subtly peppery bite, especially if eaten raw, while rutabaga have a sweeter flavor, like carrots, and a creamier texture when cooked. Fortunately, you can use both with great success; the results will be delicious regardless, just in different ways.

Serving With Style

Earthy and warming, this particular hash honors the legacy of the potato while giving it a more nuanced upgrade. The natural sweetness of red beets with punchy turnips pairs easily with almost anything to round out the plate. Infused with a smoky, savory, and subtly tangy flavor, it’s so much more than just bland, boring filler.

Serving suggestions include:

Hash It Out

Make some noise for the accidental smash hit of the winter! You’ll want to turnip the beat, on repeat, once you give it a spin.

Continue reading “Turnip The Beet” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Thanksgiving Wild Card

It’s a shame that most people turn to wild rice only when Thanksgiving rolls around, though with such a strong and legitimate historical association, they should be forgiven. I am also one of those people, forgetting all about this straw-like black aquatic grass until November, then quickly shuffling it into the back of my mental Rolodex until next year. Though it takes the same amount of time and effort as brown rice, something about cooking it feels like an event.

Wild About Wild Rice

In truth, wild rice stuffing (or dressing, depending on your upbringing) is just a seasonal pilaf or salad, served warm. Would it detract from the magic to make it for a 4th of July backyard BBQ, a birthday party potluck, or a random Tuesday in April? Certainly not, and yet, when that bountiful dish of toothsome, nutty whole grains comes out on the fourth Thursday in November, it sets the scene with a final flourish, dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s on a carefully curated menu.

The All-American Whole Grain

Wild rice, a pseudograin that has captured the hearts and palates of many, is deeply intertwined with Indigenous cultures, particularly the Anishinaabe people of the Great Lakes region. Known as “manoomin,” or “good berry,” it thrives in shallow waters, where it has been hand-harvested for over a thousand years, using canoes and cedar sticks to gently knock the grains into waiting vessels. Wild rice is not only a staple food but also a vital part of spiritual practices and community gatherings, symbolizing harmony with nature. With its impressive nutritional profile, rich in protein, fiber, and antioxidants, wild rice has sustained generations. As we gather to give thanks, incorporating this ancient grain not only enriches our meals but also honors the Indigenous traditions that have shaped American foodways.

Spice Up Your Rice

If you only eat wild rice once a year, let’s make it count. Banish bland boxed mixes and spice things up this year. Fresh jalapeño and Thai bird’s eye chili bring the heat, tempered by the sweet citrus flavor of orange juice, juicy red apples, and a touch of maple syrup. Aromatic and herbaceous, it’s bold yet plays well with others, livening up the typical guest list without commanding all the attention. At the very least, it should remind you not to overlook wild rice yet again.

Continue reading “Thanksgiving Wild Card” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Get Your Grub On With Crosnes

If it’s vegan, I’ll try anything. In fact, the more unfamiliar the ingredient; the more unlikely the pairing; the more visually unappealing, the more I want it. Which brings me to crosnes.

What Are Crosnes?

Tiny, pale corkscrew tubers, you’d be forgiven if you thought they were a juicy grubs you just unearthed from your garden. Also known as the Chinese artichoke, Japanese artichoke, Chirogi, Gan Lu Zi, 甘露子, knotroot, or artichoke betony, they originated in Japan, but really took root in China, where they were used medicinally as a cold remedy and general respiratory cure-all. Eventually they traveled to Europe in the 1880s, and were named for Crosne, a town near Paris, France. Still relatively unknown, crosnes are very difficult and labor-intensive to harvest, taking them almost entirely off the market.

What Do Crosnes Taste Like?

Crisp like water chestnuts with a subtly sweet, nutty flavor similar to Jerusalem artichokes, they’re best eaten raw or lightly cooked. Boiled or stewed, they lose their shape, melting away into unidentifiable starchy sludge. Don’t lose the opportunity to enjoy what makes them so special -even if part of that is evocative of young larvae. Just trust the process.

Cooking With Crosnes

Crosnes can be cooked in a variety of ways, most notably by sautéing, roasting, flash-frying, and pickling. No matter the method, be careful not to overcook them, using high heat and short cook times. Always wash thoroughly to remove the dirt, but peeling is optional, largely for aesthetics. That said, the skin comes right off once blanched in boiling water for 60 seconds, plunged into ice water, then simply scrubbed well.

  • To sauté crosnes, heat some olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the crosnes and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until they are tender-crisp.
  • To roast crosnes, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F (200 degrees C). Toss the crosnes with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender and slightly browned.
  • To deep-fry crosnes, heat oil to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Fry the crosnes for 2-3 minutes, or until they are golden brown.

Beet-Pickled Crosnes with Garlic and Dill

Serving Suggestions

Though they do have an affinity for Asian and French seasonings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different flavor combinations. Here are a few simple ideas for how to apply that inspiration:

  • Salads, chopped or thinly sliced
  • Stir fried, with other vegetables and/or noodles
  • Pickles, on charcuterie boards, cocktails, or sandwiches
  • Pasta, tossed with a butter sauce, red wine ragu, or creamy alfredo

Creamed Crosnes

I’d like to think the crosnes are the filet Mignon of root vegetables; luxurious, expensive, and reserved for special occasions. That’s why I thought a classic steakhouse preparation suited them well, paired with my favorite mycoprotein steak. Speckled with both black and aleppo pepper, bathed in a creamy mustard-spiked sauce, they’re immersed in a warm, fresh sort of spice that hits right in the sinuses.

Naturally, you could happily skip the fancy plating and toss in some tender chickpeas or baked tofu to make a wholly satisfying one-pot meal instead. If you’re lucky enough to find crosnes, if you even chose to cook them at all, a singular savory indulgence awaits

Continue reading “Get Your Grub On With Crosnes” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

The Sharper Your Knife, The Less You’ll Cry

Being perpetually broke and terminally thrifty aren’t exactly qualities to brag about, but they have been an asset to my culinary creativity. When onions go on sale for $1 per 3 pounds, you’d better believe I’m already brainstorming ways to make them the foundation of my diet for the next few weeks. That is to say, sharpen your knives and get ready to shed some tears; onions are what’s for dinner.

Onions In The Spotlight

Onions don’t get enough respect as vegetables, every bit as worthy of your attention as social media darlings like Brussels sprouts or kale. They’re the backbone of almost every cuisine and the recipes found therein. From France to China, arbiters of good taste worldwide wouldn’t willingly omit the onions for anything. Just try sauteing up some onions in olive oil to see what I mean; anyone walking through the kitchen will immediately ask what smells so good.

What’s An Onion Casserole?

While I’ve often dispatched such a bounty by simply caramelizing then and freezing them for later, I wanted to stretch my meals in a different way during a particularly lean winter. Southern tradition has something called “Tennessee Onions,” bearing a strong resemblance to this similar casserole, but with a dairy-heavy slant. I’m taking the easy route by employing just plants, thank you very much.

Serving Up Onions With Style

In fact, it’s so easy, you don’t need to dirty a single bowl, or even a spatula. Put your onions in the baking dish, top with seasonings, and pop it in the oven. It pretty much cooks itself. Now, I’m not crazy, I know onions alone are not an entree, but they can make a strong side dish, just like you might serve steamed broccoli or roasted green beans alongside your favorite protein. What’s more, these silky, buttery flavor bombs are prime topping options for crusty bread, slow-simmered soups, layered dips, and so much more. Incorporate them into leftover rice or pasta for an instant flavor upgrade, or simply start your favorite recipes by skipping the first step of sauteing them from scratch.

In honor of the nearby Austin neighborhood, Onion Creek, I’m naming my take with local flare. They may not start the next TikTok craze, but their appeal is timeless and undeniable. Meltingly tender, sweet onions will never go out of style.

Continue reading “The Sharper Your Knife, The Less You’ll Cry” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

Gold Rush

Exhausted by weeks of holiday extravagance, the first week of the year can look rather drab in comparison. The parties are over, the guests have gone home, leaving little but crumbs and an eerie silence in their wake. It’s a natural response, an equal and opposite reaction, to succumb to the bleakness of winter a bit. However, instead of getting stuck there, entrenched in blankets, rooted to the couch, there’s still so much light and joy glittering within reach. Or, more accurately, within the kitchen.

Gold For Good Luck

Gold is the most auspicious color as a literal representation of wealth and prosperity. Yukon gold potatoes have never done me wrong, with their sunny yellow, naturally buttery flesh, as my favorite all-purpose spud. When plain potatoes sound too austere to spark that feeling of good fortune, just take it to the next level. Make gilded golden potatoes, dripping with real gold-

-food paint. Gold metallic food paint. Real gold? On a freelancer’s budget, are you kidding me? Of course not. Just a light veneer of a lustrous edible varnish truly does wonders to lift the spirit. As we all know, we eat with our eyes first, so why not give yourself a visually opulent experience? Trust me: It may feel silly at first, painting the crispy crenelations of a baked hasselback potato, and maybe, that’s a big part of the appeal.

No matter how old I get, I find that I’m still the same child at heart. Being able to embrace that, to seek out whimsy, to allow myself these “silly” pleasures, is what growing up truly is. At least, I’d like to think so, as I hold my golden paint brush in one hand and dinner plate in the other.

How To Make Golden Hasselback Potatoes

There’s no recipe needed here; just take however many large Yukon gold potatoes as you’d like to bake and slice them as thinly as possible, without cutting all the way through the bottom. Some people suggest using disposable chopsticks on either side to act as bumpers. Drizzle them liberally with olive oil and bake at 450 degrees for about an hour, until tender all the way through and crispy around the edges. Paint gently with gold metallic food coloring, sprinkle with coarse salt and ground black pepper, and enjoy.

True richness goes beyond monetary value. This is one case where fool’s gold is a greater gift, being unquestionably more delicious than a solid gold brick.

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments