Tag: review

Sip Happens

Glorified far beyond its modest beginnings as the fruit of the vine, wine has fallen victim to classism, elitism, and pretension. Buying a bottle sight unseen can feel as confounding as taking the bar exam without having attended a single lecture, and potentially just as expensive. Setting aside the rites and rituals, pomp and ceremony that seem like exclusive insider information, it doesn’t need to be that way. Wine is for everyone, which is the ethos and inspiration behind Sixty Vines. Succinctly named for the sixty wines on tap, this Texas-born establishment is changing the wine landscape, quite literally, for the better.

Having just sprouted last month in The Domain, this is thirteenth location of the thriving restaurant group. Commanding a massive open space with high ceilings, walls of windows, and long communal tables, the use of space feels downright luxurious. Outside, you have the option of dining al fresco on the dog-friendly patio, perfect for the whole family.

The benefits of offering wine on tap are multi-fold. There’s no risk in trying something new and getting stuck with a lackluster, pricey full bottle. Never had an orange wine before? Curious about the difference between a Malbec and a Merlot? This is the place to find out. If you go in completely blind, with no prior knowledge of wine whatsoever, you’ll be graciously guided without judgement all the same.

If you’re like me and want to try a little bit of everything, customized tasting flights available in 2.5-, 5-, or 8-ounce pours are much more feasible without getting a wicked hangover later. Kegged wines are also much fresher than bottles that are repeatedly opened and exposed to air. From a sustainability standpoint, one keg holds the equivalent of 26 bottles, which adds up to much less material going into landfills.

Just as wine shouldn’t be reserved for the elite few, neither should the wine bar experience itself. Thoughtfully rounding out the drink menu with craft cocktails and equally creative non-alcoholic cocktails, every visitor will find something that’s a refreshing change of pace.

This spirit of hospitality extends to all facets of the menu. Items are clearly labeled as gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan, but there’s much more room for nuance between those crisply printed insignias. Don’t be afraid to ask for adjustments, as most meatless offerings can be made completely plant-based. Case in point, the Crispy Zucchini is typically dipped in a buttermilk batter, but a soda wash is easily substituted upon request, and request you should. More substantial and meaty than potato chips, they’re crisp indeed, but also tender and juicy, coated in a sweet chili lacquer with blistered shishitos on top for garnish.

Similarly, ask for no cheese on the Hummus and you’re good to go. It’s a two-for-one prize that includes both edamame and beet spreads, although surprisingly, no chickpeas are involved in either. Relying solely on the creamy richness of tahini and glassy olive oil to create incredibly compelling spreads, a touch of cumin rounds out the fresh flavors, as well as the impressively short list of ingredients.

Making the case for carb-on-carb action, the Broccolini & Potato Pizza is the standout entree that immediately told me the chefs had real ambitions for inclusion here. Vegan by default, there’s no red sauce lurking beneath that velvety cashew blanket, despite what the deceptively rich flavor imparted by slow roasted cherry tomatoes may lead you to believe. A thin, gently charred crust supports the tender toppings that blend together harmoniously, ensuring that no one will walk away from the bar hungry.

Wine and all its trappings deserves to be enjoyed without all the ceremony or status. Sixty Vines is making a splash to shift that perspective, creating a space for novices, solo sippers, first dates, happy hours, and larger events, too. Even for non-drinkers, you’ll find plenty of reasons to say “cheers!”

Sixty Vines

3401 Esperanza Crossing
Austin, TX 78758

Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Upsetting The Balance

One of my favorite cookbooks is super upsetting. Prospective readers are warned of that fact right up front. A Super Upsetting Cookbook About Sandwiches by Chef Tyler Kord makes good on that threat right away, combining sweet and savory with such reckless creativity that it’s a marvel it all fits between two slices of bread. Though the book is hardly new, having been on shelves since its initial release in 2016, I still find myself thinking about it regularly, randomly, to this day. It’s the kind of cookbook that you actually want to read, cover to cover, before turning out the lights for bed, rather than doom scrolling through the darkness. It’s captivating, curious, confounding, infuriating, and shocking in all the right proportions. Oh yes, and from what I’ve tested and tasted, quite delicious.

I don’t subscribe to the idea of guilty pleasures, because all forms of joy should be embraced, but this is the closest I might come to that definition. I’ve kept this fixation to myself for years, despite it bubbling back up to the surface, demanding to be shared. The fact of the matter is, the recipes are almost besides the point. The stories are captivating, written in biting, self-aware, sarcastic and yet smart prose, like a stream of consciousness spontaneously composed at 2am after some regrettable decisions on the town. There is no fourth wall—there never has been—as you’re invited into the conversations between Mr. Kord and his editor, as if you’re there reviewing the raw manuscript with them.


Cookbook Photos by Noah Fecks

Sadly, No. 7 Sub, the sandwich shops in Midtown Manhattan and Brooklyn where it all started, is no more. Its memory lives on in these pages, left to home cooks to recreate, or further bend to their whims. Most famous perhaps is the Broccoli Classic, noteworthy for its inclusion of pickled lychees and crispy fried shallots. The Zucchini Parm is a bit more tame, making the obvious vegetable swap, but also adding BBQ potato chips, “just because I wanted them,” the author explains. Mr. Kord does marvelous things with meatless protein as well, as evidenced by the General Tso’s Tofu Sub, exemplifying fusion cuisine done right. Though not a vegan book or former restaurant by any means, it’s not hard to translate with the convenience of modern substitutions these days.

From my personal experience, The #2 Best New Sandwich In America In 2012 According To The Huffington Post, AKA Terrible and Unhealthy Cauliflower Sandwiches, are a brilliant combination, showcasing Mr. Kord’s understanding of flavor and textural contrasts, pushing the boundaries of classically accepted pairings into a new, wholly successful culinary realm. Roasted cauliflower is the centerpiece, supported by a raisin and scallion relish, smoked French dressing, and crushed potato chips. Because I’m a similar kind of crazy, I tweaked my assembly to use less oil in the dressing, turning it into more of a spread, and swapping the golden raisins for lightly sweetened cranberries. Sorry, not sorry for using store-bought chips; the merits of this combination still stand up to scrutiny.

If you want to be mildly disturbed by some authentically off-kilter, unconventionally intelligent ideas in food, you’ve come to the right place. I have yet to find a contemporary cookbook with nearly such reckless creativity, fearlessly self-aware of how marvelously upsetting it could be.

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Phono Input

As a rule, I try not to play favorites. Whether we’re talking about animals, flowers, or food, it’s impossible to crown a winner across the board. Different moods and situations call for different preferences. No one thing is ever perfect either. Some might excel at one thing but fall short in another. I say this specifically with restaurants and bars in mind, as I’m frequently asked to weigh in. That’s why I can’t say that Phonobar is my all-time favorite… It’s just that the competition would be tough with that near the top of my list.

Established in the heart of the Civic Center, it’s a true oasis in the city. Rarely can you walk into a sleek, polished bar and feel right at home, as if your glittery high heels had transformed into fuzzy slippers upon entry, though I can’t find any other way to describe the experience. Intimate and comfortable, romantic and seductive, fun and casual; any of these descriptors could fit the vibe. If you want to dance the night away, there’s a sweet lounge area with open space to groove, especially when a DJ or band comes to play. If you just want a chill happy hour, sidle up to the bar or park yourself in the covered outdoor booths on a balmy San Francisco evening.

If you know me, you know my focus is quickly diverted to the menu. This is where the party really starts. Om Sabor is in the kitchen, crafting their distinctive globally inspired fusion fair, leaning strongly into Mexican and Californian cuisine. There’s not a single dish that would disappoint, but I’d highly suggest going for the Enchiladas, stuffed with black beans, to get a taste of their masterful handle on spices, layered harmoniously into every bite.

Soups are ever-changing with the seasons, but if you’re fortunate enough to get French Onion Soup as an option, don’t even think twice: Place your order before you even take a seat. Deeply savory, buttery, and with a hint of natural sweetness, meltingly tender ribbons of caramelized onions swim under the cover of soft bread and gooey cheese, all slowly melting together into one comforting spoonful.

Teriyaki Skewers are one of the top sellers, which chef Luis easily sold me on after facing decision paralysis given the breadth of choices. Thank goodness he tipped the scale in favor of these delicately strung strata of chicken-like protein and vegetables. Deftly grilled to ensure crisp, gently seared edges, it’s a true feat to have everything, from mushrooms to peppers, zucchini to meat, cooked perfectly together, glistening under the greenhouse window panels lining the far wall.

Of course, you can’t leave without indulging in a cocktail or two, or three if you’ve got a ride home lined up. Of course, for nondrinkers, zero proof cocktails (AKA mocktails) are far from an afterthought; these drinks are just as carefully blended, infused, and shaken, so you’ll never end up with another glorified lemonade. You’d barely wait a minute even during the busiest of times; they have the process down to an art and a science.

My favorite cocktail of all time, the Paper Plane, isn’t in the printed menu, but all it took was a tentative request for the perfect blend of spirits to arrive at my table. Balance is the word I keep coming back to, describing how well each ingredient compliments one another, never speaking out of turn or stealing the show. That isn’t easy, especially in the more complex, original cocktails developed and only found here.

The seasonal Walking In The Rain is a must for warm summer nights. It’s genuinely refreshing, light and restorative, gently sweetened with vegan honey, and offset with herbaceous cucumber-infused bitters. Should the weather turn cold, when the fog rolls in and blankets the streets, a Hot Toddy will warm you from the inside out, soothing like a hug from a good friend. There’s something for everyone, to take the edge off a bad day or celebrate a good one.

The fact that it’s all plant-based honestly feels like an afterthought because it’s such a natural fit. No one is going out of their way to force it into a box or cater to a specific crowd. It’s just unassailable food and drinks, in a thoughtfully curated space, that happens to be entirely inclusive on all levels. If you don’t go to Phonobar every chance you get, you have no right complaining about a bad trip. It’s a must stop for me every time I’m in town now, and the kind of place I miss when I’m gone.

So, while I don’t want to call it my favorite… I can’t think of another place that even comes close.

Phonobar
370 Grove St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments

Joining The Plant-Based Egg Hunt

Few foods are quite as loaded with cultural significance as the humble egg. Whether we’re talking about philosophy (did the chicken or the egg come first?) or superstition (get a double yolk and get ready to have twins), the unfertilized chicken ovum is as meaningful as any random object can be. They take on a different sort of implication for vegans, of course, skewing largely negative.

Are Vegan Eggs Possible?

Plant-based eggs have evolved alongside the massive wave of alternatives to conventional animal products. For decades, creative bakers have sought substitutes using just about anything you could pull out of the pantry, such as:

  • Ground flaxseeds or chia seeds
  • Mashed bananas
  • Applesauce
  • Blended tofu
  • Aquafaba

While that works for muffins and cakes, you’d never mistake these mixtures for eggs on the breakfast table. For that, we turn to:

Vegan Egg Brands Are Keeping Pace

With increased demand comes more ready-made solutions that become even better with every fresh formulation.

  • JUST Egg has held the lion’s share of the market with their pioneering liquid egg, followed by folded patties, and sous vide egg bites.

  • Competition is finally growing with Simply Eggless‘ liquid scramble made from lupin protein.
  • Spero Foods plant-based pepita eggs add diversity to the category.

Still, a large swath of egg-based foods remained untouched… Until now.

Vegan Hard Boiled Eggs Are Here

A new era of plant-based eggs has dawned. Sorry to bury the lede on this stunning breakthrough in food technology, but it’s impossible to emphasize just how far we’ve come to reach this point without a bit of history. WunderEggs, sold exclusively in Whole Foods Markets, right alongside cartons of conventional, free range, and organic chicken eggs offer a truly better alternative.

What Are WunderEggs Made of?

Almonds, cashews, and coconuts sound like a dubious combination on paper. Somehow, once sprinkled with the sachet of sulfurous black salt included in each package, this unlikely trio is transformed into the eggiest experience you can get outside of a hatchery. Rich, creamy yolks add decadence to smooth, bouncy whites, working together and separately to play a pitch-perfect role in the act.

What’s The Best Way To Serve Plant-Based Hard Boiled Eggs?

Given their current scarcity and expense, WunderEggs are a bit too precious to sacrifice for a mundane egg salad sandwich. Hopefully those factors will improve with increased production and distribution, but to maximize your investment, they’re best featured as toppers for:

  • Salads (especially a Cobb or Niçoise salad)
  • Avocado toast
  • Savory oats
  • Congee
  • Breakfast pizza

There’s Always Deviled Eggs

Conserve your supply using this simple shortcut for making a single serving of vegan deviled eggs, or scale up to throw a lavish Easter brunch that will impress all your friends and family. We’ve arrived at the final frontier of eggless alternatives, and it’s a truly delicious place to be.

Continue reading “Joining The Plant-Based Egg Hunt” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Axe Me Anything

Bestsellers on Black Friday are typically high-end electronics, kid’s toys, luxury fragrances, and jewelry. Of course, blissfully oblivious to conventional door busters, this past holiday season, I ended up walking away with a kitchen axe.

Kitchen axe with an open acorn squash and seeds

What does one do with a kitchen axe?

Did I need a kitchen axe? Absolutely not. The most important function of a kitchen axe is that it could scare off potential intruders and makes you look like a badass. Practically though, I had no idea what I would use it for.

Conventional wisdom would suggest that this is a blade meant for heavy-duty butchery, like a cleaver on steroids, but that’s a misconception. It’s actually an entirely unique and very useful tool*

  • The long handle is designed for an arcing swing to channel a lot of power into a single strike, which is ideal for cracking open whole coconuts.
  • The gently curved blade is ideal for rocking over fresh herbs for a consistent, fine mince.
  • The wide metal head is excellent for slicing through large, hard vegetables, like winter squash, jicama, or celery root.
  • The small size is compact and great for travel. It fits easily into any purse so you’ll always be properly equipped on the go.
  • The razor-sharp edge will do the job in case of emergency dismemberment, decapitation, or disembowelment needs.

Kitchen Axe in a log outside

Important Note

*A kitchen axe is in fact, poorly suited for all culinary tasks compared to comparable butcher’s knives or simply blunt objects, such as bricks or rocks. It’s only a good gift for someone you think would look better with fewer fingers. Proceed with extreme caution and many bandages on hand, literally.

April Fool’s!

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Great GATSBY

Dark chocolate is indisputably in the running for the single most perfect food. When done right, it’s sweet but not sugary, bitter but not harsh, snappy yet creamy, intense but not overwhelming. Simply put, it’s everything good and nothing bad. How could anyone possibly improve on perfection? Try slashing the calories by over 50% so you can eat even more of it.

How Is Low Calorie Dark Chocolate Made?

Dark chocolate is already the healthiest version of this indulgent treat, containing the highest percentage of antioxidant and flavonoid-filled cacao beans.

Sugar is the primary culprit that turns this virtuous food into a diet destroyer, spiking blood sugar and wreaking havoc on your heart, nerves, mood, and more. In GATSBY chocolate, allulose replaces the bulk of the granulated sweetener for an experience that provides the same balance and body, without all the downsides to the indulgence.

Fat is the other source of contention. This one is more troubling to replace; cocoa butter is arguably the core component that makes chocolate, chocolate. Somehow, through magic and science, a combination of plant-based oil, palm oil, and corn fiber coalesce into a convincing dupe. Bringing the rich cocoa powder flavor to the fore, you get the added benefit of a considerable serving of fiber, too.

What Does GATSBY Chocolate Taste Like?

Impressive nutritional stats are one thing, but tasting is believing. GATSBY offers two dark chocolate bars: Sea Salt Extra Dark and Almond Dark. Also available for vegans and dairy-free eaters, you can choose from Oat Milk Salted Almond and Oat Milk Crunch Bars, in case your cravings skew a bit lighter and more milky. After one bite of the Almond Dark chocolate, I knew I’d have to hunt down the rest.

Imagine a thick slab of chocolate bark, riddled with tiny chopped almond pieces all the way through. Crisp, toasted nuts fill every mouthful with a comforting sort of warmth, as the cloak of cacao enshrouding them melts away. The initial bite is softer than conventional chocolate, a bit fudgy rather than snappy, but I wouldn’t call that a flaw. Rather, it’s primed to liquefy almost on impact with your tongue. If you’ve ever stolen a spoonful of solidified ganache from the cooled double boiler, this is it in bar format.

Dark chocolate of all forms will forever be an essential staple of my diet. It’s certainly nice to have an innovative option that allows for healthier hedonism.

This post was made possible as a collaboration with Moms Meet and GATSBY Chocolate. My opinions can not be bought and all content is original. This page may contain affiliate links; thank you for supporting my blog!

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments