Tag: restaurants
So Long, and Thanks for All the Dishes
It’s closing time, as we turn out the lights on 2024 and prepare for the next shift, starting the cycle anew. Many restaurants won’t be joining us though, doors remaining locked indefinitely, their once bustling dining rooms left cold, filled only with silence. Running a food business, or a small business of any sort, is a difficult, if not altogether punishing proposition, where the daily to-do list is a never-ending lineup of crises. The fact that any hold on should be celebrated, though today, I’d like to take a minute to mourn the losses of the vegan community that have saddened Austinites of all stripes.
Somehow, 2024 seemed to take a lesser toll on the industry, with fewer establishments within our plant-based circle calling it quits in comparison to recent years. That doesn’t make these losses any less heartbreaking, nor their absence any less dispiriting. It brings me no pleasure to recount the once vibrant restaurants that are no longer with us.
Vegan Restaurant and Cafe Closures in Austin, 2024
Sunny’s Backyard is still out there serving cocktails from the bar, but the eponymous food truck has departed from its reserved space. It was a crushing blow to receive as not only the first closure of the year, but one of my top three favorite vegan spots in all of Austin. Yes, there’s a new rotating cast of characters subbing to fill the void, but none of the replacement trucks are vegan. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a plant-based option or two, which is a paltry offering compared to the previous list of meatless wings, monstrous burgers, soft pretzels with dairy-free queso, and fully loaded waffle fries. There’s nothing else quite like it that can replace the food, live music, dog-friendly patio, and chill vibes.
Capital City Bakery slipped away slowly, imperceptibly, until suddenly, it was gone, leaving only questions in its wake. Reduced hours turned into opening by appointment only, then not opening at all. The website remains as a ghost of its former self with purchasing options turned off. Cupcakes and kolaches still tease on the screen, almost close enough to taste, but entirely out of reach. This closure may have actually happened sometime in 2023 based on rumors of unfulfilled orders, so it’s time to finally call it: Cap City is baking no more.
Big Nonna’s grandmotherly love wasn’t enough to keep the pizza oven burning, submitting to increasing financial pressures that ultimately pushed them out of their brick and mortar space. A withering blow to north Austin where vegan options are more sparse, there’s no replacing their house-made dairy-free cheeses and spicy beeteroni, to say nothing of the impeccable thin, crispy, NY-style crusts each masterpiece was built on. At least Li’l Nonna’s lives on, still carrying the torch through a more limited menu from their compact trailer at Tweedy’s Bar… For now.
The Beer Plant tapped out in the final days of 2024. It had been a tumultuous year of chef shuffles and menu overhauls that the upscale eatery never recovered from. Watching its slow decline was painful, though the finality of its closure is still harder to accept. Where else in Austin could you go for an all-vegan fancy date night, an upscale meal to impress parents, or a celebratory spot for birthdays and beyond? Brunch is where they really excelled, in my opinion, pulling out all the stops to make incredible eggless shakshuka, decadent French toast, hearty meatless chicken and waffles, and so much more. I’ll relish the memories from my very first visit when they had just opened, when I was just a visitor to this fair city. I feel lucky to have seen their journey through, from start to finish, no matter how sad the ending.
Looking Ahead to 2025
As we look toward the horizon of 2025, there’s a glimmer of hope that flickers like candlelight in the darkness. The challenges we’ve faced have forged a resilient community, one that can adapt and innovate in the face of adversity. New ventures are on the verge of emerging, driven by passionate individuals eager to fill the void. Let’s remember the lessons learned from our losses, honoring those who have shaped our culinary landscape, while also embracing the possibilities ahead. Together, we can rebuild, reimagine, and reinvigorate the vibrant tapestry of our food culture, ensuring that the spirit of compassion and community continues to thrive in every bite.
Right On ‘Cue
For all the amazing vegan food that covers nearly all cuisines across Austin, there is at least one glaring omission: BBQ. It’s such an essential staple here, and plant-based alternatives are well-established, so why don’t the two ever meet?
We have a few options, if not full BBQ establishments. A number of restaurants have come and gone, even during my short tenure here. Notable losses include the late BBQ Revolution, Bone-a-fide Vegan, and PlowBQ. In their wake, many other talented plant-based chefs have made space on their diverse menus to include this all-American staple. When cravings hit, here’s the full list of meatless BBQ dishes within city limits.
Best Vegan BBQ in Austin, TX
Mission Burger – For the most authentic smoked brisket that could genuinely fool an omnivore, this should be your first stop. The Smokey Brisket Burger piles mushroom-based brisket on top of one or two Impossible patties, dairy-free provolone cheese, crispy onion strings, and pickles, which is even more of a mouthful than it sounds. Rich like genuine fatty brisket, you’d be wise to schedule in a nap shortly after partaking. For the full experience, grab a BBQ Plate which includes slaw and mac and cheese, or just throw that umami meatless mix on top of Brisket Cheese Fries for a quick fix.
Bistro Vonish – A perennial staple, the BBQ Seitan Sandwich is a little bit sweet, a little bit smoky, and wholly satisfying. Hitting at the heart of honest, no-frills, meat-centric BBQ, it puts the protein front and center. Seeing as the thick-cut seitan is made entirely from scratch, it would be a disservice to do anything else. Paired with some tender cabbage on a chewy baguette, it’s a study in simple pleasures.
Bouldin Creek Cafe – It’s hard to resist the legendary tofu scrambles, but when you’re ready to move beyond breakfast, the Vegan BBQ Plate dinner special won’t let you down. Made with Flying Tempeh Co soy tempeh topped with a house-made BBQ sauce, you get the full compliment of beans, salad, and your choice of a side. Cornbread is really the only choice if you ask me, but you do you.
Double Trouble – Get it on a taco or a bowl; as long as you don’t pass up the BBQ Tempeh Short Rib, you can’t go wrong. What makes it so special is that it’s made with pecan smoke and topped with house-made raspberry BBQ sauce, for an ideal sweet and savory balance.
ATX FOOD CO – For a heathy, whole food fix, I’m happy to report that the Tempeh Brisket is a solid choice. Impressively meaty yet tender, deeply smoky in a way that liquid seasonings alone can’t replicate, it’s bold and flavorful without using syrupy sauces as a crutch. You can get it on tacos made with spelt tortillas or in a quinoa bowl, complete with pickled cabbage, broccoli, and avocado for a truly hearty meal.
The Vegan Yacht – Tex-Mex still reigns supreme around these parts, so it should come as no surprise that there’s a good amount of overlap across cuisines. The Smokehouse Burrito takes the whole BBQ plate and wraps it up in one giant tortilla the size of a newborn baby. Ideal for grab-and-go satisfaction, you get the convenience of having smoked BBQ tempeh, whole wheat mac and cheese, slaw, pickles, and avocado in every gargantuan bite.
Wholly Cow Burgers – Perhaps one of the last places you’d think to look for a vegan meal, this old school ode to ground beef is slinging a few noteworthy plant-based bites as well. The Bean Brisket Sandwich employs black-eyed pea-based Texas Tempeh to make up the meat of the matter, slathered in BBQ sauce and generously topped with grilled onions. Though a welcome change of pace for this old school burger join, it does clock in on the salty side, so make sure you grab a soda or sweet tea to wash it down.
Coming Attractions
Like a gripping novel full of twists and turns, this is far from the end of the story…
Rison & Lotts, borne of the mastermind behind Community Vegan, will rise to fill the gap as the sole 100% plant-based barbecue restaurant in all of Austin proper. Building their brick-and-mortar location from the ground up, it’s due early next year on the east side, not far from the current truck. Serving up platters piled high with lion’s mane chopped beef, smoky brisket, and smoked chick’n, complete with potato salad and baked beans, it’s everything a BBQ lover could crave, and more. In addition to the restaurant, there will be a market for grab-and-go chilled deli sides, desserts, and frozen biscuits. Until then, expect to see two or three more pop-up previews at Community Vegan to get an early taste of what’s to come.
The hotly anticipated revival of Counter Culture looms on the horizon, replete with BBQ seitan as a headlining attraction. Between now and then, any number of limited specials at existing establishments could spring fresh vegan barbecue inspiration on the community, while old staples may expand on smoky specials, too.
Plenty of restaurants can take BBQ sauce and douse meatless wings or burgers, but for a real smoke show, seek out these trailblazing experts.
