Wordless Wednesday: Noodle Around

Ikigai Ramen – Vegan Tonkatsu
Millennium – Rigatoni alla Puttanesca
Saigon Quan – Ap Chao Tofu
Franchia Vegan Cafe – Penang Noodles

Bodhi Viet VegansWonton Noodle Soup
Bistro Vonish – Mac and Cheese
Cho Dang Tofu and BBQ – Mushroom Kalguksu
Bep Saigon – Hu Tieu Ap Chao
Bodhi Viet Vegans – Vermicelli Fermented Mixed Vegetables (Bún Mắm Thái)

Seas The Day

Succulent and briny from the kiss of salt water, fresh seafood is a distinct pleasure enjoyed best in the fading glow of a summer sunset. I’m not talking about scallops, shrimp, or lobster; my seafood is all plant-based. Mushrooms, to be specific, make some of the best seafaring foods this side of the shoreline.

Why Mushrooms?

Mushrooms are truly the future of food. They can imitate an incredible range of proteins, both in texture and flavor, from chicken to steak, and now all manner of fishy friends. The beauty of mushrooms lies in their delicate, umami flavor that can take on any type of seasonings. Marinate them with a bit of seaweed and you’ve got an instant oceanic infusion. Seared, baked, roasted, or kept raw, they have a similar sort of toothsome tenderness, juicy and even subtly sweet.

Best Mushrooms For Replacing Seafood

As an ardent mushroom lover and proponent, I will never turn down any type of ‘shroom. That said, some are better suited for this sort of application than others.

  • Oyster mushrooms: Chewy like calamari, battered and fried oyster mushrooms only give themselves away by their shape. This same quality makes them an excellent choice for making ceviche, too.
  • Lion’s mane mushrooms: Perfect for shredding to make crab cakes or lobster rolls, they can also be pressed to make meatier steaks or fried fish.
  • King trumpet mushrooms: Slice the stalks and pan-sear them to make incredible scallops. I like cutting crosshatches on top to soak in more marinade, and because it looks pretty darned fancy.
  • Maitake mushrooms: Feathery and soft, you’ve got a flaky white fish waiting to happen in every handful. They’re especially tasty when roasted to lightly crisp the edges.

Fishless And Fancy-Free

Unburdened by the plight of our oceans, mushrooms create an even lighter, brighter, and more vibrant pasta dish than anything you’d dredge up from the sea floor. Pan-fried wild mushrooms, seasoned with a touch of paprika and nori, add a delightful meaty element that beautifully complements the seafood vibe. Bursting with the sweetness of fresh corn and the tang of juicy tomatoes, it sings of summer’s bounty. Finish it all off with a splash of white wine, a squeeze of fresh lemon, and a sprinkle of scallions for an elegant entree that’s a real catch.

Plant-based seafood is a booming business, and mushrooms are leading the charge. Cutting-edge technology and fermentation techniques are creating increasingly authentic alternatives that mimic the exact texture of your favorite ocean treats, but simple home cooking can already come stunningly close. Indulge your cravings for seafood, but don’t be shellfish; just eat mushrooms instead!

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Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

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A Balancing Act

Cooking, like life in general, is all about balance. Harmonizing contrasting flavors and textures are obvious and critical components, but there’s so much more to it than that. There’s also the balance between needs and wants; aversions and cravings; nutrition and comfort. Balance goes beyond what’s on the plate when you do it right.

Creamy walnut and roasted lemon pasta is my best example of balance at the moment. At a time when winter weather is prone to unpredictable
tantrums, farmers market hauls are pitiable, and inspiration is scant, this simple dish covers the full spectrum of demands and desires.

Elegance in Simplicity

Meyer lemons, naturally sweet, are roasted to lightly char the edges, adding a unique caramelized flavor to the sauce. Blended walnuts create the creamy base, their earthiness accentuating the toasted notes, and subtle bitterness bolstering the sourness of the citrus. From there, seasonings are minimal, emphasizing umami with nutritional yeast and miso paste, plus a touch of red pepper flakes for a bright finish. To round it all out, a handful of greens incorporates more freshness, while still cooking down to a soft, silky texture.

Don’t sweat the details. Campanelle pasta, those flourishing trumpet shapes, are my favorite here, but anything from rigatoni to bow ties will do. Meyer lemons aren’t the only sort that will work, if your choices for citrus are limited.

Better Balance

That’s the thing about balance; there’s no one way to achieve it. What’s more, it isn’t finite. You’re allowed to redefine what balance means to you. I just hope this recipe might help you find it like I did.

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The Ultimate Lasagna: A Make-Ahead Miracle

Scrolling through my mental Rolodex of meals that are quick, easy, and just the right balance of healthy and comforting on a hectic day, lasagna is typically not at the top of that list. It’s high time we changed this.

Make Ahead Lasagna

Neatly contained in a spacious baking dish, lasagna is the ultimate pasta casserole that can be made in large quantities to be enjoyed many times over. One batch could feed a small family for days, or a single person for weeks, when stored correctly. Either unbaked or ready to serve, you can stash it in the fridge or freezer with no degradation of quality; a huge feat considering how many store-bought options turn out.

Never settle for mushy noodles swimming in watery, sweet sauce ever again! Gentle people, we can rebuild it. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world’s best plant-based lasagna. Better, easier, tastier.

Tips For Success

It’s not so much technique that determines the outcome of this recipe, but the ingredients themselves. No cooking experience necessary, anyone can pull off this culinary feat with the right components.

  • The lure of no-boil noodles is tempting, but you must resist! Since they sit immersed in sauce for so long, they’ll have long passed the point of al dente and gone straight to mushy by the time you set the table.
  • Quality marinara is crucial. It plays a huge role in flavoring the whole dish, so if there was ever a time to splurge on the good stuff, this is it. Normally I’d make the case for starting from scratch, but for a quick fix meal, it’s okay to take an assist.
  • NEVER get anything less than the best tofu, AKA Hodo Organic Extra Firm Tofu. It’s rich, dense, and has a unique, subtly savory taste that allows it to transform into both meaty protein and creamy ricotta in a snap. While some may look at the pasta as the backbone of lasagna, it’s the filling that really lays down the foundation for flavor. Accept no substitutes for the best results.

Ideas for Adaptation

The beauty of a tried-and-true lasagna recipe is that it allows room for adaptation. Make it your own with any of your favorite herbs, spices, vegetables, and proteins without throwing off the delicate balance. Every batch can be a little bit different, and thus never boring, no matter how many times it’s on the dinner menu.

  • Seasonings: Italian seasoning, featuring basil, oregano, rosemary, marjoram, and thyme are of course classic, but that’s not the only option here. Consider something a bit spicier, like Cajun or Creole seasoning, bright like lemon-pepper, complex like curry powder, aromatic like za’atar, and so on. The only limit is your imagination, and spice rack!
  • Vegetables: Use fully cooked vegetables so they don’t water down the filling as they cook. That means sauteed mushrooms, roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, grilled zucchini or eggplant, and more are all fair game. If you want to add greens, use frozen chopped spinach, kale, chard, or collard greens that have been thawed and very thoroughly drained; squeeze them really well to get all the liquid out.
  • Proteins: You’re already getting a ton of protein from the Hodo tofu ricotta, but in case you’re craving something meatier, you can beef up the filling, with all sorts of plant-based proteins. Saute your favorite meatless grounds before adding them to the marinara sauce to transform it into a hearty bolognese. If you’re focusing on more whole foods, try the same trick with lentils; red, green, or brown are welcome here! Even chopped up chunks of seitan or vegan sausage can add a satisfying meaty bite into every forkful.
  • Dietary Restrictions: Gluten-free? There are great gluten-free noodles on the market now, made from chickpeas, rice, corn, and/or lentils. Read labels carefully to find the best option for you.

Prep Once, Eat All Week

The creamy Hodo tofu-based ricotta, layered throughout strata of tender pasta sheets and robust red sauce, is fortified with cream cheese, thickening, stabilizing, and enriching it all at once. This simple trick ensures that you’ll have picture-perfect slices of lasagna every single time.

Best of all, it acts as insulation from ice crystals in the freezer, making it the ideal dish to make ahead, toss in the deep freeze, then heat and eat as needed. The tofu ricotta is so undeniably cheesy that it really doesn’t need the finishing flourish of vegan mozzarella on top… But then again, has there ever been such as thing as too much cheese?

Don’t answer that. Just pass the lasagna, please.

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Big Night, Small Bites

It doesn’t have to be a “big night” to justify treating yourself to timpano. Even if it’s just a weekday meal for one, there’s no reason why you can’t have exactly what you crave.

For years, I’ve been dazzled by the specter of timpano, just like the rest of the movie-watching world, after seeing the unforgettable unveiling on screen in Big Night. Who could look away as the knife plunged deep into that thick pastry crust, revealing endless layers of pasta, meatballs, salami, eggs, cheese, and red sauce? Given that impossible depth and breadth, I wouldn’t have been surprised to see a whole tomato vine in there, stems, leaves, and all.

What Goes Into Timpano?

It’s like the clown car of foods; it seems to contain much more than could possibly fit inside such a confined space, where truly anything goes. Some versions feature sausage, pepperoni, ricotta, wilted spinach, marinated mushrooms, olives, capers, pickled peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, cubed bread- At some point, you have to wonder if this was just a clever vehicle for repurposing the dregs of the fridge and pantry. The only limit is your appetite.

Unfortunately, for those eating alone, that is a considerable restriction.

How To Make A Tiny Timpano

While I’d relish the opportunity to cook up a few pounds of pasta, throw it into a flaky crust, and go to town, my stomach would hate me for it later. Even for someone who loves gluten, it’s quite the wheat bomb, to say nothing of the absurd serving size. Taming the towering timpano requires more than just downsizing, but significant redesign for a more sound construction.

  • Oversized ziti get replaced with more compact orzo to prevent gaping holes. Any other small pasta shapes like pearl couscous, pastina, or stelline are also fair choices.
  • Trade out the doughy exterior for tender zucchini, lightly roasted for a subtly smoky, charred essence and greater flexibility. Thinly sliced eggplant, yellow summer squash, or red peppers are excellent alternative edible wrappers, and can be used in concert for greater color and flavor.
  • Single serving portions take shape in standard ramekins, no fancy molds needed. Leftovers are a snap to freeze for later enjoyment and can be instantly thawed on demand.

Is A Timpano Of Any Other Size Still As Grand?

I’d answer that with a resounding “yes!” Given that the original dish was named after timpani, AKA kettledrums, I’d like to think that a more creative approach, allowing cooks to march to the beat of their own drums, only serves to better honor the concept. Rather than approaching it as a project, tiny timpanos fit into any schedule or meal plan, especially as an excellent way to use up any odds and ends on hand. Consider the following recipe more of a guideline; any night can be a big night with the right perspective.

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