Keep On Kibbeh On

Diving into a plate of homemade kibbeh, still hot enough to scald both your fingers and mouth as you steal the first bite, and still so impossibly delicious that it’s worth the pain, is a singular experience to aspire to. It’s been on my recipe wish list for a decade, maybe two, punted in favor of less daunting dishes. At long last, I can say that while it’s not a quick fix meal to whip up on an average weeknight, it’s well within reach, and well worth taking the plunge.

What Are Kibbeh?

The word kibbeh stems from an Arabic verb كَبَّبَ (kabbaba), meaning “to form into a ball” or a circular shape. Kibbeh is considered a revered national dish of Syria and Lebanon, held in high esteem and fiercely protected. The essential ingredients for any form of kibbeh are bulgur wheat, spices, and ground meat. Traditionally, that meat would be in the form of lamb, beef, or goat, but plant-based variations abound. My recipe combines potatoes for binding power, chickpeas for protein, and Sugimoto Shiitake for umami to create the ideal balance of texture, nutrition, and flavor.

Sugimoto Shiitake are my favorite substitute for ground beef. You can mince the whole mushroom or just the stem for a thrifty fix that packs a huge punch of flavor. The toothsome chew stands on its own as an authentically meaty sensation, or enhances any range of alternative proteins to those same lofty standards. Coarsely mashed chickpeas, crisp pine nuts, caramelized onions, and a dazzling array of spices join forces for an unforgettable taste sensation.

Hashweh in Arabic means “filling” or “stuffing,” which is how I refer to this umami mixture. However, in common parlance, it’s come to refer to a one-pot rice dish, not unlike a meaty pilaf. You could very happily use it to stuff other vegetables, like peppers or cabbage, or serve like a side dish as is.

Kaleidoscopic Kibbeh

Kibbeh isn’t just one dish. At last count, there’s roughly 70 distinctive variations found across the Middle East. Between regional variations, family tradition, and personal preferences, no two recipes are ever the same. Some of the most common types include:

  • Kibbeh Nayyeh is served completely raw, fully incorporating the meat with the wheat, like a finely ground steak tartare.
  • Kibbeh Bil Sanieh bakes the components together as two layers in a shallow dish.
  • Kibbeh Labanieh takes fried kibbeh balls and drowns them in a thick yogurt sauce.
  • Arras Kibbeh is what we’re making today: football-shaped, stuffed, and deep-fried kibbeh.

Popular Pairings

Is it a main dish or a mezze? That’s a trick question; it’s both! Get the party started by serving hot or room temperature kibbeh alongside tahini sauce, hummus, or tzatziki for dipping. Create a full dinner spread by pairing them with tabbouleh, shirazi salad, pita bread, grilled or roasted vegetables, or red lentil soup. Of course, you can easily make a one-bowl meal by topping salad or rice with all your favorite fixings and freshly fried kibbeh.

Prep For Success

There’s no way around it: making kibbeh from scratch can be an all-day affair. The first attempt may be messy or unshapely, but I promise you, every bit as gratifying in the end. Make the process easier by planning ahead:

  1. Enlist help from friends or family when it comes to stuffing to make the process both quicker and more enjoyable.
  2. Prepare one or both of the components in advance and store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days.
  3. Uncooked kibbeh freezes well, as does fully fried, leftover kibbeh, allowing you to enjoy it whenever the craving strikes.

Fear Of Frying?

Deep frying isn’t a regular activity around here, given the mess, potential hazards, and health implications, so I understand the hesitation. However, if there’s one recipe that I’d implore you to embrace that bubbling vat of oil, (though not literally, please!) it’s this one. No other method will create that perfectly crispy, golden brown shell that encloses a moist, meaty center. That said, I don’t want to dissuade you from trying other methods if that’s the only way to go. Your best bets are:

  • Baking: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and bake in an oven preheated to 400 degrees for 25 – 30 minutes, flipping halfway through.
  • Air frying: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and air fry at 370 degrees for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket every 5 minutes or so.
  • Pan frying: Set a nonstick skillet over medium heat, coat the bottom with 1 tablespoon of oil, then add 10 – 12 kibbeh at a time, making sure the pan is not too crowded. Cook for 8 – 10 minutes, turning on each side until evenly browned. Repeat with the remaining kibbeh.

Making kibbeh is truly an art that takes time and practice to get right. Fortunately, imperfect kibbeh is equally delicious, so your efforts will always be rewarded.

Continue reading “Keep On Kibbeh On”

All Y’alls Cookbook

“Flavor First” is the philosophy that guides my approach to cooking. It needs a punch of acid, smoldering heat, and sultry umami; an arresting taste experience that commands the center stage. To call something bland is the worst insult in my kitchen. That’s why it was such a joy to cook with All Y’alls Foods, creating this cookbook from the ground up with a rich palate of global tastes to spark inspiration. In case you thought of jerky as just a snack, allow me to flip the script.

What makes It’s Jerky Y’all and It’s Big Crunchy Bacony Bits Y’all so special is that they do more than try to translate dried meats directly into vegan terms. Each pouch offers the immediate gratification of a ready-to-eat snack, but with some creativity and fresh ingredients, you have an incredibly versatile, adaptable meal starter in your hands. Think of it as shelf-stable protein, just like you would lentils or chickpeas, but with more of a meaty bite than basic beans could ever dream of.

Let the rich flavors inspire your cooking, leaning into the building blocks of global cuisine by employing simple pantry staples. Chinese stir-fries or Mexican tortas are within easy reach, without a trip to a specialty grocery store or years of experience.

That said, don’t let me tell you what to do. Take this collection of recipes and make it your own. I’m thrilled to give away three copies to celebrate the printing and release, at long last! To enter, leave a comment about your favorite flavor of plant-based jerky, and don’t forget to log that on the form below.

It’s All Y’alls Cookbook

If you just can’t wait, you can snag a copy on the official All Y’alls Foods website.

I couldn’t be more proud to partner with founder and CEO Brett Christoffel in not only creating the recipes, text, and photos for this book, but also designing it from scratch, for the first time in my career. Since completing this project over a year ago, All Y’alls Foods has already released a new flavor, so you can expect a reprint with more sweet ideas featuring the inimitable Cinnamon Churro jerky. There’s always room for improvisation and even greater culinary exploration.

On A Wing And A Prayer

Wings are flying high, taking off in popularity like other appetizers can only dream. Best known slathered in vinegary buffalo sauce, the appeal of a spicy, deep-fried morsel is undeniable. Spreading like wildfire across the American bar scene since their creation in 1964, many establishments live and die based on the power of their wings. Naturally, vegan options have proliferated alongside the groundswell of interest in plant-based meats, giving rise to even more creative alternatives.

What Are Vegan Wings?

Defining what separates a vegan wing from a sauced and tossed nugget is a blurry, squiggly fine line. Close comparisons can be made to boneless wings, with meat that’s less processed and uniform than breaded bites. Wings are larger, juicier, and yes, coated in either a sauce or dry rub. Most are fried but not all, with methods like baking or roasting being more popular with the healthier crowd. Most confusingly, vegan wings aren’t necessarily protein-based at all, as seen by the mushroom and cauliflower wings that are also achieving great acclaim.

For the sake of this investigation, it simply must be called a “wing” on the menu to qualify. From there, it must stand on its own culinary merits to succeed.

What Makes The BEST Vegan Wings?

Judging what makes a great wing isn’t rocket surgery. Anyone who’s a fan of the food can tell you that it comes down to three things: If they’re crispy, meaty, and saucy.

  1. Crispy: It’s all about that crunch. Whether it’s battered, breaded, or naked, the outside of a wing needs a crispy finish that can hold up to being drenched in sauce, too.
  2. Meaty: I’m talking about umami and heartiness here. A wing needs a savory depth of flavor and a bite that really satisfies. I don’t care if it’s soy, wheat, or vegetable; it needs to feel like the main event, not a side dish.
  3. Saucy or Well-Seasoned: Buffalo may have a choke hold on the market, but it’s far from the only condiment in town. I went out of my way to try alternate sauces whenever possible, always looking for something that’s bold, balanced, clings and coats the wings richly, and doesn’t completely obscure the flavor of the base.

The Best Vegan Wings In Austin, Texas

While it’s a snap to make your own meatless wings at home, that’s not what we’re here for today. When cravings strike, there’s nothing like the instant gratification of a hot, fresh, crispy plate to share with friends. Here are the restaurants doing it right around town.

Community Vegan pulls out all the stops with their Lemon Pepper Wangz. Oyster mushrooms are at the heart of these impeccably crisp, generously seasoned bites. Citrusy, sharp, earthy, and bright, they have a distinct warmth but not a fiery heat, appealing to all levels of spice tolerance. They’re not chicken and they make no bones about it; what they lack in meaty flavor, they make up for in sheer umami. Expertly fried to a resoundingly crunchy finish, these are quite possibly my favorites on the list.

Possum Pizza is a close second for their hyper-realistic Buffalo Wings! and BBQ Wings!, complete with sugar cane drumsticks to gnaw on. Considering the magic they work with plant-based fried chicken, it should come as no surprise that these masters of comfort classics knock this one out of the park. Richly coated with a vinegary hot sauce and accompanied by ranch dressing, it’s the closest experience you can get to eating a conventional plate of wings. Better yet, you can get a killer pizza at the same time.

Alamo Drafthouse Cinema has technically disqualified themselves by rebranding their Buffalo Cauliflower Wings as a Vegan Cauliflower Bites, but they’re so good, I have to give them a pass for now. Where else can you watch the latest movie releases on the big screen in cozy reclining chairs while enjoying a pile of breaded and fried florets? No matter what you call them, they’re bestsellers for good reason.

Tarrytown Bar & Bistro makes theirCauliflower Wings thicc, with two c’s. These are heavily breaded, battered, and fried hard, creating a daunting fortress that you’ll need a steak knife to break through. If you’re craving a serious crunch, this is the app for you.

Nom Burgers employs the same model of sugarcane drumsticks as Possum Pizza, but dresses them up in 4 different sauce options, and cooks them to a softer finish. These literally fall off the bone, making for easy, if messy, eating. Spicy Korean Q Wings are allegedly the most popular model, but Hot Buffalo Wings are the way to go if you ask me. The real pro tip here is to opt for jalapeño cilantro aioli for dipping instead of the standard issue side of ranch.

CM Smokehouse, tucked away in the shadow of Bouldin Acres, is a classic Texas BBQ-style food truck. Vegetarian options are scant and vegan even fewer, but they do offer Cauliflower Wings tossed with buffalo, BBQ, sweet chili sriracha, or lemon pepper. Avoid the white BBQ and all dipping sauces, and you should be golden. These are unique from other cauliflower options in that they’re fried naked, sans batter or breading, and fried heavily. Genuinely blackened, without any trappings of blackening seasonings, it’s a dish best enjoyed slightly tipsy. There’s a subtly acrid burnt flavor that goes along with the technique which may be off-putting to some.

Moonbowls operates out of ghost kitchens nationwide, specializing in quick service Korean-fusion cuisine, making them a surprising contender for plant-based wings. Battered and fried Korean BBQ Cauliflower Wings are available as a standalone appetizer or topper for bowls, salads, or plates. With a light, airy coating akin to tempura, these bites feel fresher and healthier than most, while still having that satisfying fried flavor.

Yard House deserves props for putting Gardein Wings on the menu before it was cool. While it’s a bummer that none of the dipping sauces are vegan, it’s a treat to choose between buffalo, whiskey black pepper, BBQ, Korean chili garlic, and a lemon pepper dry rub at a mainstream franchise that would otherwise only offer French fries for plant-based palates. Sure, they’re just cut and sauced tenders, but with a pint of beer, a bunch of friends, and sports on TV, it’s the total package that seals the deal.

From mild to wild, saucy to dry spiced, there’s truly a wing out there for everyone. Do you have a favorite on the list?

Bodacious Vietnamese

Much has been written about “hidden gems” that are “tucked away” behind the main thoroughfares, but Bodhi Viet Vegan takes these sayings literally. You could drive right by, having painstakingly timed your visit with their excruciatingly limited hours, and still miss it. Don’t be discouraged by the dusty parking lot and ominously weathered looking store fronts; just through the alley, in a grassy clearing, you’ll find what you’re looking for.

This unassuming food truck in North Austin is run by Buddhist nuns and volunteers, fostering a sense of community, serenity, and altruism that comes only from the heart. With a vibrant Vietnamese menu focused on fresh, local ingredients, Bodhi Viet Vegan delivers an unparalleled experience that genuinely feeds the heart and soul.

You have the whole pan-Asian gambit to chose from, including classics like lo mein and kung pao, but if you leave without getting banh mi, you’re doing it all wrong. That’s not to say it’s an easy decision; you have to make the painstaking choice between spicy lemongrass seitan, braised tofu, meatless balls, or vegan char sui, but don’t agonize over it. Any protein you pick will shine against the backdrop of crisp pickled vegetables, cilantro and on a soft demi-baguette.

Another must-order are the golden fried rolls. Wrapped with care and stuffed with a vibrant mix of fresh shredded vegetables, their exteriors are impossibly flaky and delicate, shattering instantly with each bite. Paired with a sweet peanut sauce, they’re utterly irresistible. You get four pieces per order, which seems like enough to share, but I promise you it’s not. Make sure everyone gets their own or be prepared for a fight.

Soup stans, the homemade dumpling soup far surpasses any paltry wonton you’ve ever had before. Bold words, I know, but just take a look at those beautiful bundles here. Swaddled in toothsome yet not doughy skins, a juicy mixture bursts on your spoon, infused with a fragrant, umami broth. Tender-crisp vegetables swim at the bottom, luxuriating in their savory bath.

For a more substantial soup, the kimchi noodle soup is a clear standout. With a genuine spicy kick that grows with every subsequent slurp, thin, springy ramen noodles are thoughtfully packed separately, ensuring the textures of all components remain at the peak of perfection when you’re ready to dive in. Substantial slabs of tofu soak in all the bold flavors of the lightly fermented cabbage, hot and tangy, soft and supple.

To round out your meal with something sweet, there are plenty of desserts to explore, though the boba tea gets top billing for me. Given the rarity of finding dairy-free bubble tea at large, this is a real treasure. Even more impressive is how the tapioca pearls have just the right amount of chew, an excellent level of sweetness, and a genuinely fresh flavor. Strawberry, taro, or matcha; again, you can’t go wrong. Plan on working your way through all of them to taste the rainbow.

What’s most shocking isn’t just how pitch-perfect all the seasonings are, the way that the proteins hit all the right meaty notes, or the fact that there are zero animal products at play, but how wildly affordable it is. There isn’t a single dish above $9, while portions remain generous. Order normally and you’ll have a feast that will keep you fed for days.

It’s wise to plan in leftovers when you order, because the only disappointment in this operation is their difficult hours that are beyond limited. You only have Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 11am to 6pm, to get your grub on. I can’t be mad though. For a delicious, affordable, and heartwarming vegan meal, it’s well worth the effort to visit. Don’t be surprised if you leave feeling not just satiated, but a touch lighter in spirit, too.

Bodhi Viet Vegan

2301 West Parmer Lane
Austin TX 78727