Tag: legumes

Cool Beans

Everything old is new again, as evidenced by the heirloom bean renaissance. As a person with no family heirlooms to speak of, I’m quite content to accept this treasure trove of ancient legumes in lieu of jewelry, furniture, or fine China. Health is wealth, after all, and tepary beans especially are certainly rich in nutrition, flavor, and culinary inspiration. These stunning onyx gems were inherited from a generous friend, AKA chosen family, quickly becoming my favorite living legacy to receive.

A Brief History of Tepary Beans

Hardy and robust, these small seeds have managed to thrive in the harsh, arid conditions of southwestern United States and Mexico, surviving drought and blights since before colonization began. Where common beans (p. vulgaris), lima beans (p. lunatus), and runner beans (p. coccineus) would wither into dust, tepary beans managed take root, establishing themselves as a critical staple of the native peoples. At times of scarcity, they accounted for nearly half of the dietary protein for the indigenous communities that cultivated them.

Fifty Shades of Brown

Although brown tepary beans seem to be most common today, they’re incredibly diverse and grow in at least forty-six distinct colors, including white, brown, beige, black, and mottled, with some plants delivering monotone harvests while others produce a full spectrum. It turns out that the black tepary beans I got my hands on are the most elusive, developed by separating the black seeds before planting the other white or brown seeds separately over the course of many generations.

What Do Tepary Beans Taste Like?

Flavors vary based on color, with white teparies tasting sweeter and more mild than nutty brown or deeply earthy black tepary beans. Across the board, their texture is consistently firm, meaty, and sturdy. These are beans that won’t fall apart under pressure, remaining distinct even after long cooking times. That makes them ideal for adding into salads, salsas, tacos, burritos, braises, soups, chili; anywhere you want whole, well-defined beans.

Nutritional Prowess of Tepary Beans

Historians and nutritionists agree that tepary beans are one of the healthiest legumes around, easily explaining why it was such a staple for aboriginal tribes, and makes the case for renewed enthusiasm today. Tepary beans have more protein and higher fiber than ordinary beans and a lower glycemic index (41-44), so you’ll get more bang for your bean buck with every meal. Especially when compared to meat, this plant-protein is a boon for anyone who wants to eat and feel better in the long run.

How To Cook Tepary Beans

Being drought-resistant can make tepary beans somewhat cooking-resistant too. Their tough outer skins refuse to yield under quick cooking conditions, so patience is key. If you have a slow cooker or pressure cooker, now is the time to plug it in. Cover the beans with a generous amount of water, adding more throughout the cooking process if needed, especially on the stove, if it evaporates too quickly.

Aromatics like whole garlic cloves, halved onions, bay leaves, and kombu, are excellent additions to infuse more savory flavor, though not mandatory. Always add salt after cooking, not before, or else they may never soften sufficiently.

  • In a pressure cooker, unsoaked tepary beans can cook in 35 minutes with a natural release.
  • On the stove top, unsoaked tepary beans may take 1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook when simmered over low heat, while beans soaked overnight may take 45 to 60 minutes.
  • Using a slow cooker set to low, unsoaked beans will take 6 to 8 hours, or 3 to 4 hours on high.
  • Oven braising times are very similar to the stove top method, taking roughly 1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook unsoaked tepary beans all the way through.

Drain thoroughly and enjoy hot, cold, or at room temperature.

Heirlooms with Style and Substance

Go forth and eat your heirlooms! Tepary beans are a link to the past that are every bit as vital and relevant in the present day. Instead of some dusty relics that sit on the shelf, these beans have real benefits, proving their value above and beyond inert precious metals and stones. Find yourself some tepary beans today, and start a new family legacy.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Eat More Eggplant

Eggplant is one of those ingredients that I love eating, but forget about for long stretches at a time. Invariable, I’ll see it pop up on a menu or food blog, vow to cook it more often, and then… Forget again. Forever relegated to the bottom of the produce bin, the last call at the farmers market, eggplant will never be the next viral trend. After considering my own eggplant negligence, I’m finding it’s more of a cultural disconnect than lack of culinary potential. Look no further than the Mediterranean countries to see the difference.

Turkish Delights

Though not native to Turkey, eggplants have been the guest of honor on Turkish tables for centuries. This isn’t just conjecture; 16th century Ottoman cookbooks boast over 140 eggplant recipes. That’s to say nothing of what home cooks may have adapted and improvised. Unlike the ubiquitous globe eggplants common in the US, Turkish eggplants are smaller and come in various colors, from lilac to deep purple. There are even white and baby green varieties. Less bitter than the seedy, bulbous giants we’re accustomed to here, they don’t need extensive salting, soaking, or additional prep. With fewer barriers to entry, it made me realize that perhaps my mental block is simply due to using the wrong type of eggplant all this time.

Get Stuffed with Karniyarik

“Karnıyarık” translates to “split belly” in Turkish, describing the way the eggplants are sliced open to create an accommodating boat for a savory stuffing. Traditionally deep fried and then baked, I see no need for all that oil—and heat—when twice-baked baby eggplants are every bit as luscious and tender. Starting with a classic sofrito, ground beef or lamb is typically the focal point for the simple stuffing, but I happen to think that Sugimoto Shiitakes beat that kind of meat any day. Gently simmered with seasoned lentils, it’s the kind of dish that will put eggplant back on the map, especially for plant-based people.

Karniyarik Vs. Imam Bayildi

Traditionalist would be up in arms, racing to argue that this is not karniyarik at all, but in fact, imam bayildi. They’re not entirely wrong; the latter is the historically vegan version, made without meat. However, I think of my rendition more as the former, since I wanted to replicate that same rich, hearty eating experience with homemade plant-based ground meat. Sugimoto Shiitake stems are the secret to creating that beefy texture and deeply umami flavor. Never toss the stems! They’re even chewier than the caps, which makes them such an ideal fit for making meatless grounds.

Love Your Leftovers

There will be a generous amount of filling leftover; that’s an asset, not a flaw! Consider it your next meal waiting to happen, since it’s ideal for stuffing any variety of fresh vegetables, such as:

  • Bell peppers
  • Tomatoes
  • Cabbage rolls

Or, using as a filling or topper for:

  • Burritos
  • Tacos
  • Salads
  • Rice bowls

That’s not all! If you add a binder like breadcrumbs and ground flaxseeds, this humble mixture can be transformed into:

Naturally, it’s fabulous as part of any dinner plate, acting as a complete entree or side dish, too.

Karniyarik: A Staple of Summer

Beautiful baby eggplants aren’t available all year round, unlike their oversized brethren. While you could always make this recipe with halved globe eggplants, the experience isn’t the same. As summer harvests reach their peak, now is the time to try something new. In fact, you could always bake karniyarik well in advance and then freeze it to enjoy a taste of summer anytime you want. Whatever you do, don’t make my same mistake: Cook more eggplant, now and often!

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Beans Are The New Black Friday

Black Friday isn’t what it used to be.

I say that not with sadness or nostalgia, but a deep sense of relief. Holiday sales will forever persist, pushing everything from lawnmowers to lingerie, but the singular focus on one big shopping day has dispersed to encompass the entire interval from Thanksgiving to Christmas. Door busters are digital and shipping is free; why bother waking up early to fight the crowds? This tradition of dubious appeal from the onset is now fully obsolete. I don’t know about you, but I’m ready to redefine Black Friday.

Black beans are the antidote to Black Friday’s typical excess. Decidedly unglamorous, unassuming, and unpretentious, black beans won’t force you out of bed early or judge you for the previously night’s debauchery. Taking it a step further, braised black beans, gently stewed in velvety coconut milk and invigorating aromatics, speak of a wholly different sort of richness.

Rifling through the pantry and freezer, this combination of Southeast Asian staples spoke to me above the cacophony of typically autumnal herbs and spices. The fragrant, floral notes of makrut lime leaves and lemongrass share the spotlight, bolstered by the sharp undertone of ginger and jalapeno. Balanced by the natural sweetness of the coconut milk, it’s already so buttery that no additional oils need apply.

Take It Easy

For anyone else still weary from cooking marathons or hosting duties, I’ve got you. Just one step more complicated than a genuine dump dinner, you don’t even need to drain the cans of beans or dirty another dish. Go ahead, take other shortcuts like using pre-minced garlic or ginger paste; no one will be able to argue with the end results.

Serving Suggestions

Personally, I’m perfectly happy spooning these beans right into my mouth, straight out of the pot, while hovering over the stove. If you have more patience though, your time and effort will be rewarded when you round out this entree with proper sides. Ideally, add at least some come kind of starch to soak in all that savory potlikker.

  • Rice, be it basmati, jasmine, or any fluffy steamed long grain rice
  • Bread, thinly sliced and toasted
  • Stewed collard greens, meltingly tender
  • Arugula salad, for a subtly bitter contrast
  • Avocado, for a buttery bite of extra decadence

Alternately, switch up the prep to transform it into an entirely different dish.

  • Roughly mash to make them approximately the texture of refried beans, then use in tacos, burritos, tamales, enchiladas, etc
  • Add vegetable broth and serve as a soup, optionally pureeing some or all
  • Simmer rice right in the same saucepan to make one-pot beans and rice

Make It Your Own

There are no hard and fast rules here. Born out of convenience, this formula is ripe for adaptation. Almost everything is changeable, like…

  • Using chickpeas, white beans, or adzuki instead of black beans
  • Adding more or less garlic, ginger, and jalapeno, to taste
  • Switching up the seasonings with curry powder, chili powder, or lemon-pepper

Don’t Over-Think It

Black Friday can be a complicated mixture of emotions and memories, wants and needs, no matter what the reality of it is today. Black beans, however, should always be simple.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Broadly Speaking

What’s in a name? Broad beans are a confounding classification that encompasses a whole swath of the legume population. Some use the term interchangeably, referring to butter beans and lima beans as if they were the same thing. Defying all rational definition, in a sense, they are! Why is it that lima beans tend to get the short end of the stick, the bane of many picky childrens’ existence, while butter beans come with an air of whole luxury? Words do matter, more than one might want to admit.

Different varieties for each title exist, but the whole naming convention is further complicated by location and appearance. In the south, you’re more likely to see butter beans on the menu, but if they’re younger and thus greener, they’re the spitting image of what one might otherwise refer to as lima beans. It’s the same, but different.

If we could forget about names for a minute, I truly believe that the smaller, greener subspecies would have a fighting chance at mainstream acceptance. Tender, but with the same toothsome bite as edamame, they’re textually unparalleled in the bean kingdom. That’s especially true if you treat them properly; canned or over-boiled beans are likely the root of cause of such historical disregard, but fresh or frozen, you’re talking about a whole different hill of beans.

Pan-fried with a generous glug of fresh pressed olive oil, they finally live up to the promise of buttery taste, too. Blistered over scorching hot temperatures, a literal flash in the pan, their skins become crisp, adding a whole new dimension of texture to the plate. Simply prepared, with a touch of garlic, salt, and pepper, you could easily eat them straight, as an entree over mashed potatoes, sprinkled over salads, or served up with bar nuts as a hot new beer snack.

This same treatment works for just about any bean, including but not limited to chickpeas, fava beans, and even lentils. Now, don’t even get me started about the additional complication of the terms “pole beans” and “butter peas.”

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Americas Made

When is a bean more than a mere legume? Arguably, all pulses, big and small, have their own stories to tell, but some would spin epic tales encompassing history, heritage, and a whole lot of heart, if only they could talk. The oldest-known domesticated beans in the Americas were found in Guitarrero Cave in Peru, and dated to around the second millennium BCE. Can you imagine what those tiny seeds might say? Though we still lack bean-to-human communication, the best translation you might find today would be through Fillo’s. Born of two brothers determined to share some of the beloved Latin American foods from their childhood with a broader audience, each savory selection speaks clearly and boldly through the convenience of modern packaging. Celebrating the unique character of each bean and their diverse origins across the continent, you might be surprised by what tiny pulses are capable of with just a bit of time, gentle seasoning, and love.

Placing equal value on authenticity and convenience without sacrificing either, each flavorful blend is fully shelf-stable and ready-to-serve, filled with fresh vegetables, olive oil, beans, water, and spices. Otherwise known as sofrito, this cooking method extracts bold flavor and nutrients. Clocking 10-16 grams of plant protein per pack means that they’re ideal, complete meals on the go. What sets this pouch apart from others is the fact that it’s actually built for ease and accessibility. Fully microwavable, there’s a top notch to tear and pour, and a second, lower notch that can turn the entire thing into its own bowl; nothing more than a spoon needed.

Celebrating the cultures responsible for so many of our favorite foods today, there are six different options to shake up the bean routine in an instant.

Cuban Black Beans dazzle with savory notes of cumin and bay leaf simmered into every tender, toothsome morsel. The taste immediately struck me as a perfect pairing with chips, like a chunky dip, straight out of the bag. Adding freshly diced bell pepper to harmonize with those stewed within, the harmonizing flavors yet contrast of textures was simply sensational. This brilliantly simple combination is clearly a party-starter waiting to happen.

Mexican Mayocoba Beans shine the spotlight on a lesser known legume, bathing the creamy, if not downright buttery beans in a waterfall of onions and garlic, accented by piquant ancho chile and epazote. Swaddled in soft corn tortillas, they turn any day of the week into a flavorful fiesta, not just Taco Tuesday.

Puerto Rican Pink Beans, spiked with achiote and a hint of cilantro, are unbelievably rich, satisfying comfort food cravings without using excessive oil or salt as a crutch. Adding a scoop of steaming hot yellow rice alongside was merely a ploy to soak up every last drop of that thick, velvety gravy.

Peruvian Lentils manage to maintain an ideal half-dome shape, not mushy nor unpleasantly crunchy, which is quite a feat for this fickle little legume. As a meal in frequent rotation now, a touch of zesty aji verde enlivens the umami medley stuffed into a ripe avocado. If I had one shred of patience come mealtime, this has the makings of the ultimate avocado toast, but I’d rather just skip straight to the good stuff. An extra slice of bread would just be unnecessary filler here.

Tex-Mex Pinto Beans invites a punchy smattering of jalapenos to the party alongside the warmth of chili powder. Though mild, they’ve got a zesty kick that plays beautifully with the earthy flesh of baked sweet potatoes. Loaded with an extra punch of fresh, fiery pepper confetti on top, it’s a cozy yet invigorating union that will keep you on your toes.

Panamanian Garbanzo Beans ranked as one of my personal top picks, though it’s hard to really rank favorites when all the options are winners. Adding just a touch of vegetable broth created a rich stew that tasted as if it had been on the stove, cooking for hours. These particular beans have a subtle tomato undertone carrying notes of verdant oregano, perfectly al dente, in a way I can only dream of when cooking from dried stock. I was so thoroughly inspired by these chickpeas that I couldn’t leave well enough alone. After downing two or three packages straight, I had to take them into the kitchen to play.

Traditionally tinted a blushing pink hue with steamed and sliced beets, Ensalada de Papas is the Panamanian answer to potato salad. Incredibly popular for special occasions and everyday meals alike, there’s no bad time to break out a bowlful of this creamy dish. Simply adding a pouch of Fillo’s garbanzo beans transforms it into potential entree material, while still remaining flexible enough to serve as a side. My version adds the crisp bite of water chestnuts for variety, but at it’s core, all you need are potatoes, beets, and beans. The key is to keep it simple to allow the ingredients to speak, like Fillo’s Americas Made does in the first place.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments