Tag: guide

Pollinate Your Plate

Want to look like a fancy chef in an instant? Fennel pollen is the answer. Even the name sounds illustrious, rarified, and sophisticated. Though it’s true, you’re not likely to find it in your average grocery store, it’s not as exclusive as it sounds.

What Is Fennel Pollen?

Derived from the blossoms of the fennel plant, rather than the vegetable, which includes the tiny yellow flowers and powdery substance within. Some call it “culinary fairy dust” and covet it like saffron.

What Does Fennel Pollen Taste Like?

Naturally, it tastes like fennel, combining the delicate essence of anise and licorice, alongside more floral, citrus, and honied notes.

How Is Fennel Pollen Used?

A little pinch goes a long way, transforming simple vegan egg toast with romesco into something truly gourmet. Though intense, it should only be applied as a finishing seasoning after cooking, as heat will destroy its unique nuances. Remarkably versatile, fennel pollen can enhance both sweet and savory dishes, elevating everything from appetizers to desserts.

Foolproof pairings include:

  • Proteins like tofu or tempeh, cooked predominantly with simple marinades such as garlic and lemon, to add a sweet and aromatic final touch.
  • Mushrooms, especially those that are milder, such as oyster, trumpet, cremini, and portobello.
  • Vegetables such as roasted or grilled carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, potatoes, beets, and so much more. If it goes well with fennel, it goes well with fennel pollen, too.
  • Grain-based dishes like quinoa, couscous, or bulgur, to harmonize with their distinctive earthy, nutty, cereal flavors.
  • Pasta, because what doesn’t pair with pasta? Tomato sauces, cream sauces, and butter sauces alike can all benefit from a tiny pinch of fennel pollen.
  • Sweets and desserts, particularly apple pies, spice cakes, poached pears, vanilla ice cream, and even chocolate truffles, to name a few.

Pollinate Your Plate Today

Though the price of entry may initially be steep, fennel pollen is worth the expense. Harvested by hand from wild fennel, it’s not something you can cut corners on. To add a gourmet touch to everyday meals, there’s nothing else quite like it.

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Don’t Leaf Curry Alone

“Curry” isn’t just a type of stew, or a paste, or even a powder. Curry leaves came before all of that, appearing in text as early as 100 CE. A treasured staple of south Indian cuisine, their complete absence in overseas markets is downright astounding. Even with my penchant for exploring new flavors and obscure ingredients, my first taste of fresh curry leaves was only a few months ago. Now, I’ll spend the rest of my life making up for lost time.

What Do Curry Leaves Taste Like?

What do they taste like? No, seriously, I’m still asking myself that question. I popped a spry green leaf into my mouth and chewed, racking my brain for a good comparison. Shiso had the closest flavor profile I could come up with, but even that is a stretch. Musky, piney, resinous, tannic, nutty, and pungent, there’s truly nothing else like them. Don’t bother looking for substitutes; you’re better off just omitting them, unfortunately.

Where Can I Get Curry Leaves?

This is the million dollar question, the real barrier to entry here. Realistically, it’s more like a $2 question when you find a source, and you’ll get at least a half bushel of the things for that price. Take as many as are offered because they freeze beautifully, which means you can always have an ample supply on hand. Unless you have access to a robust Asian or Indian market though, it’s unlikely you’ll find fresh curry leaves nearby. Dried are available online, but of course, they lack the same punch and vibrancy.

What’s The Best Way To Cook With Curry Leaves?

I’m so glad you asked! Cooking with curry leaves is intuitive once you start thinking about them as both a whole spice and herb. Naturally, they’re best suited with Indian recipes, tempered in hot oil before a stir fry, stew, or sauté, bringing out the aromatic, volatile oils. The leaves can be used whole, much like bay leaves, but they’re fully edible and thus don’t need to be removed before serving. Dried, ground curry leaves can be applied like any other seasoning, although again, don’t expect the same distinctive bouquet of flavors.

Health Benefits of Curry Leaves

Curry leaves have a long history of medicinal usage with proven results. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E, and minerals, their nutritional value is as powerful as their culinary potential. A key component of Ayurvedic medicine since ancient times, curry leaves are noted for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They’re also believed to aid in digestion, improve hair and skin health, reduce cholesterol, and even help manage diabetes. If you’re ever feeling the effects of eating too many beans (AKA flatulence), chew on a few raw curry leaves for relief. It’s a surprisingly effective and affordable fix!

Curry Leaf Recipes

Now that I finally got my hands on these greens that have more culinary value than dollar bills, I’m trying to spend them wisely on only the most promising recipes. Here’s the list of suggestions that I’ll be working through shortly:

The beauty of curry leaves is that they go with genuinely any Indian dish. Just throw a handful into whatever you’re cooking for an instant flavor upgrade.

Curry Up Now

If you’ve ever wondered why your home cooking doesn’t taste quite like your favorite meals from Indian restaurants, curry leaves are the missing ingredient. The instant impact that a small sprig can have is astounding, like turning a light switch on in a dark room. Come into the light, and give fresh curry leaves a try.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Sweet and Sassy

If you haven’t thought much, or at all, about Sassafras before, you’re not alone. Banished to the darkest depths of the forest after enjoying brief success as a soda shoppe superstar, there’s not a trace of it left on the market today. Where did it all go? Why did the original root of root beer disappear while only chemical imitators remain? The controversial answer is tangled up in politics and bunk science.

Sass Back

Sassafras is a tree grown in the American Southeast, cherished for years by the indigenous peoples for culinary, medicinal and aromatic applications. Sassafras leaves could be enjoyed as a fresh spice, like bay leaves, in soups and stews, or dried and steeped like tea. Spicy and earthy, with hints of vanilla and licorice, it’s what you might expect from root beer soda if it wasn’t so brash and artificial. The roots have the added benefit of thickening liquids, giving them a place of honor in many gumbo recipes instead of or in addition to file powder.

The tea from sassafras leaves is believed to have many curative properties, historically used to treat colds, measles, scarlet fever, indigestion, and heal wounds. Distilled safrole, the primary chemical compound in sassafras, is still used to make perfumes and natural insecticide products overseas. In the US, where this unique ingredient originated, the story is completely different.

The Dose That Makes The Poison

A study was done in the 1970s where a group of rats was fed extreme, excessive amounts of concentrated safrole. Unsurprisingly, they developed cancer and liver damage. The USDA reacted swiftly and blindly, banning the substance indefinitely. Abundant misinformation persists; even otherwise legitimate-looking websites claim that “Consuming 5 mL of sassafras can kill an adult.”

This is, frankly, a lie. Dr. James Duke, author Handbook of Edible Weeds, has written that on the contrary, root beer with safrole was 1/13 as cancer-causing as the alcohol in beer. While yes, safrole can be used in the production of ecstasy (MDMA), let’s not forget that over-the-counter cold medications can be used to make meth, too.

Distilling The Solution

By my estimation, I’ve consumed much more questionable things. That’s why I was overjoyed when I got real sassafras root from Tripp Distillery, creators of unparalleled sassafras liqueur. Not everyone has access like this, but there are some online resources as well. With my prize in hand, I knew what I wanted to make right away: A reverse root beer float. That is, scoops of homemade sassafras ice cream bobbing in a frosty mug of sparkling water. Cool, crisp, and invigorating, with much less cloying sweetness than the original.

What happened when I got home was a bit different than planned. My ice cream maker decided to give up the ghost, paddle immersed in cool custard, never to spin again. With the base already cooked and a heatwave approaching, I grabbed the nearest popsicle mold and started pouring.

Creamsicle Of Dreams

Call it fate, or a happy accident, but I think the results turned out even better this way. Sweet, creamy, and delicately spiced, there’s nothing else quite like it. Perched on wooden sticks, these frozen treats are even better for summer fun on the go, or swirling into a pop-tail, AKA popsicle cocktail. Just add hard seltzer or a shot of your favorite spirits to that sparkling water to get the party started.

If you like root beer, you’ll love sassafras. Ignore the fearmongering and give it a chance. It’s long overdue for a revival, but don’t just save the best for last—eat dessert first!

Continue reading “Sweet and Sassy” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Ice Capades

I probably think about ice more than the average person. Yes, ice; that naturally occurring phenomenon of water reaching 32° Fahrenheit (or 0° Celsius) degrees and transforming into a solid state of matter. It’s incredible, if you stop to consider, how humans have managed to harness this power and put it in the hands of anyone with access to electricity. If you have a working freezer, you already have ice, wanted or not, chilling on the shelves. So ubiquitous that it’s not even considered as a component of a recipe, lower on the ingredient hierarchy than the optional salt, it’s an insult that this modern marvel gets such disrespect.

I won’t bore you with a glacially slow history of ice. Rather, I want to highlight how cool ice really is, and how the quality of ice has a huge impact on the overall eating and drinking experience. I may or may not be able to chill out on the puns, but good ice is snow joke!

Quality AND Quantity

Much as been made in recent years about the volume of ice in drinks. Increasingly price-conscious consumers see all that space in their glasses taken up by flavorless frozen water and are crying foul. Where’s the rest of the order that should theoretically occupy that void?

The thing is, that’s not the way an iced beverage works. Ice, by design and by nature, melts. A properly composed drink takes this into account, factoring in the amount of dilution ice will cause and calibrating the concentration of the added liquid accordingly. That’s why a good iced latte is made with strong espresso, while iced coffee should be poured over coffee cubes to maintain the same bold flavor.

Certain cocktails are just a mixture of liquors; without a good measure of ice, that would be straight firewater. In other cases, when a stronger drink is desired or more juices and syrups are involved, that’s where cocktail shakers come in handy, straining out the excess ice to prevent the flavor from changing beyond a certain standard.

The shape and size of the ice makes a big impact on the amount that should be used as well.

Shaping Up Nicely

Being that it’s the frozen state of liquid H2O, ice can be in any shape imaginable. I personally own at least three or four dozen different ice cube trays that range from hearts to skulls and everything in between. In terms of common makes and models, there’s still a dizzying array of ice to cut through. The biggest differences have more to do with the freezing method than the final form.

  • Crescent Ice: These are half-moon cubes that home freezers with built-in ice makers churn out 24/7. I have little opinion about them, personally. They do their job dutifully, unbothered by aesthetics. These will always be cloudy. (More on that later.)
  • Bullet Ice: If you host a lot of parties and need to keep the ice flowing, you probably have a stand-alone ice maker that delivers these cylinder-shaped pieces on demand. They’re formed on metal tubes, with frozen water building up around the sides, creating an indentation in the centers.

  • Nugget Ice: Known by some as “Sonic Ice,” these are the gold standard for chewable ice. Thin sheets of ice are frozen and scraped together repeatedly to form compact, 1-cm bites that have a similar texture to hard shaved ice. Nugget ice machines sit in the upper price range for most consumers, but there’s a very affordable loophole. If you have a Sonic location nearby, you can buy a 10 lb bag of packed ice from the drive-thru for around $3 – 5.
  • Square Ice: These familiar 1-inch cubes are the workhorses of the bar. They chill drinks effectively without melting too quickly, making them ideal for a wide range of cocktails. Larger cubes, about 2 inches square, melt slower than standard cubes, perfect for sipping on neat liquors or spirit-forward cocktails on the rocks without watering them down.

  • Spherical: Seamless round orbs add a touch of sophistication to any drink. Spheres have a smaller surface area compared to their volume, so they melt even slower than large square cubes. Plus, it’s hard to beat that visual appeal.

Clear As Day

Perhaps you’ve noticed that the ice cubes from your home freezer or ice maker are cloudy, whereas they’re perfectly clear in most restaurants and cafes. What gives? For such a simple question, the answer is a bit complicated.

Cloudy ice can contain minerals and trapped air, which can impart unwanted flavors and textures. However, even if you start with purified water, boiled tap water, hot water, or cold water, the very same hazy finish comes to the fore. The issue stems from microscopic air bubbles trying to get out as the water molecules draw tighter and tighter together. Household freezers pump out cold air from all sides to work more efficiently, setting the outer layer of water first, which then traps all the air bubbles in the center. The only way to ensure complete clarity is through directional freezing.

There are gadgets and DIY solutions to make your own directional freezing chamber, but I won’t lie, it takes a lot of patience and freezer real estate to work.The basic idea is that you insulate all but one side of the ice you’re creating so it’s forced to freeze only from the top down. You can then cut off the impurities than end up at the bottom.

I adore clear ice, notice and appraise it every time I order a drink at the bar, but this is too much of a commitment, even for me. Some things are best left to the professionals.

Frozen Assets

This isn’t even the tip of the iceberg. We could still talk about crushed ice, luxury ice stamps, hand-carved artisan ice cubes, reusable ice cubes or “whiskey stones,” herbal and floral infused ice cubes, shot glasses made from ice… You see what I mean? Before hell freezes over, I should probably wrap things up.

Does anyone really need to think this much about ice? Maybe not. You don’t need to be an ice fanatic to enjoy it, as all people should be so fortunate on these brutal summer days. Even cloudy crescent ice is still good ice in my book. Just take a closer look next time you pour yourself a drink and appreciate what’s in your glass.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Baby Talk

Not a miracle of modern technology or ancient history, baby corn occupies a strange space on today’s dinner plate. That is, if it makes the plate at all. Rarely do they appear in recipes outside of the Asian culinary canon, relegated to the odd Chinese-American takeout box, drenched in a sticky, sweet sauce. Most consumers would be shocked to learn that baby corn exists outside of cans, despite the obvious logic that it must grow somewhere, beyond a tin foil tomb. It’s time to pull baby corn off the shelf and put it at the center of the plate.

What Are Baby Corn?

True to name, baby corn are, in fact, whole corn cobs, picked before they’re fully mature. This is exactly the same breed of sweet corn tossed on the grill, slathered with butter, and shucked all summer long. At this early stage, the entire vegetable is fully edible because the cobs haven’t fully developed. Though the growing process is the same, baby corn are comparably more expensive than adult corn because they must be picked by hand, making them much more labor-intensive to harvest.

Cutting corn from the stalk early explains their mild flavor as well. Baby corn don’t have as much time to develop sweetness, making them more starchy and crisp than anything else. That crunchy texture is a great asset that makes them such great candidates for quick cooking or no cooking at all.

Unclear Origins of Baby Corn

Surprisingly little is known about the exact history of how baby corn came to be a worldwide sensation. Corn itself boasts an ancient lineage, dating back thousands of years to its domestication in Mexico. However, the practice of harvesting immature corn cobs seems to be an innovation that blossomed in Asia. Today, Thailand is the leading cultivator of this miniature vegetable, but there are scant records of how and when it made the leap.

How To Cook Baby Corn

The subtle, fairly neutral flavor of baby corn makes it endlessly versatile. It can slip right into pretty much any dish, shine when seasoned with any array of spices, and play nicely with any accompaniments.

  • Before you hit the kitchen, why don’t you go ahead and just take a bite, as is? That’s right- Raw baby corn is fully edible, and quite tasty! If you’re fortunate enough to have access to a great Asian grocery, or perhaps a boutique produce market, you can find raw, fresh baby corn. It’s an excellent addition to salads, crudité platters, spring rolls, and much more, no heat required. Canned baby corn can also be enjoyed sans heat, but may have a slightly more metallic taste, for obvious reasons.
  • Pickling is a truly underappreciated approach for preparing baby corn. Treat them as you could green beans or asparagus packed in tall glass jars, bathed in your favorite brine du jour. Salty, vinegared, and just as crisp as ever, pickled baby corn are fun garnishes for cocktails or addition to relish trays.

  • Soups, stews, and braises bring out their more tender side, embracing the more starchy side of baby corn. No matter how long they’re cooked, it seems, they retain a firm bite, lending a satisfying textural contrast to any long-simmered preparation. Most baby corn are grown in Thailand, so it makes good sense that they’re an ideal addition to creamy coconut tom kha or spicy tom yum.
  • Roasting, baking, or air frying are all great options using intense, dry heat to brown the surface and add more textural interest. This method enhances caramelization, coaxing out their inherent sweetness and bringing a subtly nutty flavor to the fore.

  • If you’ve ever had a beer-battered baby corn, you know that deep frying them could very start a new craze. What isn’t better when coated in a savory, crunchy, lightly salted crust? Dip them in marinara or ranch dressing just like any other hot appetizer in that range to make a foolproof, crowd-pleasing snack.
  • Yes, of course, there are stir fries. Notice I saved this for last? I didn’t even need to bring this one up for it to resonate, but I’d implore you to think beyond basic vegetables and noodles. Given the Indo-Chinese treatment, Manchurian baby corn is a sweet-and-spicy departure from the norm, while still paying homage a time-honored combination. Try slicing it into tiny rounds and add it to any chaat, fried rice, or dry curry for that matter, too. You can’t go wrong with a simple stir fry, but you can go very right by trying something new.

Small Bites, Huge Potential

Baby corn stands as an open invitation to explore the vegetable kingdom, even for the travel-weary. A departure from the norm but still well within the realm of known produce, there’s always a can within easy reach. Go ahead, grab one, and try something new. It’s not a gamble to bet on the culinary potential of this intriguing miniature cob.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Bananas In Full Bloom

What looks like alien squids, comes from the tropics, and tastes like artichokes? If you guessed banana blossoms, I’d be very impressed, and you’d be right! Banana blossoms, also known as banana hearts, are the unopened flowers of the banana plant that are precursors to the fruit. Native to Southeast Asia, they’ve been a staple in Indian, Thai, Malaysian, Vietnamese cuisine for centuries.

What Do Banana Blossoms Taste Like?

If you’re not crazy about jackfruit or just want a change of pace, banana blossoms are my top suggestion for a substitute. They have a similar shredded texture that works brilliantly for making plant-based pulled pork or crab cakes, for example, but is slightly less sinewy. Their mild, artichoke-like flavor makes an accommodating neutral base for any marinade or sauce you cook it in.

Fresh Vs. Canned

Fresh banana blossoms can be quite daunting to work with. Cloaked in a deep magenta husk, both the florets and heart inside are edible, although it takes a fair amount of work to prep. The pistil and calyx must be removed from the each florets, which are quite fibrous and unpleasant to eat. Once exposed to air, it oxidizes very fast, exuding a milky lax where it was cut and rapidly browning. Having given this a shot once, I’m sticking to canned for the foreseeable future.

Canned banana blossoms have the added benefit of being more tender, which also means they cook more quickly. The size, texture, and taste of canned banana blossoms varies wildly between brands, and sometimes inside the very same can. Your best bet is to buy more than one can if you’re making a recipe like vegan fish and chips, where you want bigger pieces.

Nutritional Notes

Like jackfruit, banana blossoms make great substitutes for meat in terms of the eating experience, but are lacking in the protein department. That said, they’re low in calories and fat, they boast a good amount of fiber, are a good source of vitamin C and potassium. Just add some tofu, seitan, tempeh, or beans to your meal and you’ll be golden.

Cooking with Banana Blossoms

The beauty of banana blossoms lies in their versatility. Pretty much any cooking method suits them well, and you can’t really over or under cook them. For that matter, you don’t even need to cook them at all.

  • Raw: Great shredded and tossed in salads or slaws, they have a crisp yet toothsome bite.
  • Deep fried: Dip large pieces in beer batter and fry until golden brown to make surprisingly convincing fried fish sticks or fillets. Traditionally, banana blossoms are mixed with chana dal and spices to make fritters known as vazhaipoo vadai.
  • Stir-fried: Add banana blossoms into your favorite rotation of noodles and vegetables, or try making mochar ghonto, a type of dry curry native to Bengal, India.
  • Simmered: Creamy coconut stews, rich red wine braises, and all types of soups are ideal vehicles for infusing banana blossoms with flavor.
  • Preserved: Make a thick chutney known as vazhaipoo thogayal, which goes well with hot rice or used as a condiment on sandwiches.
  • Boiled or steamed: Simply steamed banana blossoms can be dipped in melted vegan butter to really play up their similarities to artichokes.

Find Banana Blossoms Near or Far

Banana blossoms are most reliably found in Asian markets, of course, either in the produce department or with the canned vegetables. If you’re not fortunate enough to have such a store nearby, canned or vacuum-packed banana blossoms in brine can be bought online. They’re shelf stable so you might as well stock up!

Jackfruit walked so banana blossoms could run. Though still relatively unknown in Europe and North America, this tropical import is poised to be the next big thing.

Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments