Green Goddess Goodness

Few dishes embody warmth, richness, and versatility quite like risotto. Celebrated for its creamy texture and unpretentious yet indulgent nature, risotto is all too often relegated to the cold winter months. Skipping over spring flavors would be a terrible mistake, as evidenced by a vibrant, verdant bowlful of Green Tea Goddess Risotto.

Fusing classic Italian comfort with an unexpected Asian twist, brewed green tea replaces conventional vegetable stock with an herbaceous foundation. Building upon that with the fresh flavors found in Green Goddess dressing, parsley, chives, and tarragon brighten and lighten the dish in one fell swoop.

Sushi rice has long been my preferred short grain for making risotto, above the more “authentic” arborio or carnaroli. I find it to be easier and quicker to cook, not to mention much easier to find in stores and less expensive. It just so happens to fit the fusion theme, too.

Whether served as a side dish or a light entree, the end results are inevitably rewarding. Familiar yet novel, comforting and sophisticated, it’s ideal for both casual dinners and special occasions. Risotto should be a perennial option on the menu, especially when it’s this brilliant.

Continue reading “Green Goddess Goodness”

Spring For Spices

You’d think that with the word “spring” right in the name, spring rolls would be seasonal, yet we don’t even have a consensus on whether they should be fresh or fried, let alone what goes inside. Morphing and evolving over time through the hands of countless cooks, their resistance to definition is a testament to their versatility. With such effortless adaptability, who says we can’t mix things up and throw some potato in there? And what if it happens to be seasoned like a samosa? The Indian pastry itself isn’t all that different when you think about it.

Springing Up Everywhere

The term “spring roll” likely originates from the traditional Chinese practice of making these rolls during the spring festival, AKA Lunar New Year, as a celebratory snack. Simply by virtue of using fresh vegetables, any vegetables at all, they represent the idea of a fresh, new start. Seasonal ingredients typically harvested in the spring may or may not apply.

Indo-Chinese Fusion

Strip away the deep fried dough of conventional potato samosa to bring that highly spiced and aromatic filling to the fore. Encased in translucent rice paper, unburdened by heavy pastry and excess oil, it’s a lighter bite that really could put a spring in your step. It’s not the crispy crunch you might expect, but instead a soft, slightly chewy wrapping that lets the aromatic spices shine.

Let’s Wrap This Up

Besides the obvious benefits for anyone with a fear of frying, using rice paper makes these rolls far quicker and easier to assemble than conventional samosas. Plus, they’re automatically gluten-free for a more inclusive savory treat. As a packable lunch option or picnic party starter, you can’t beat that convenience. Factor in the cool, refreshing, and invigorating tamarind-mint chutney for dipping, and you’ve got a crowd-pleasing hit that’s as satisfying as it is boldly flavorful.

At its core, a spring roll is anything you want it to be, wrapped up in a cloak of gossamer rice paper. Despite the seasonal implications of such a name, they’re truly timeless. Unbound by traditional implications, the modern spring roll is a reflection of global inspiration. Golden spiced samosa filling is only a small taste of what’s possible when you start rolling.

Continue reading “Spring For Spices”

A Night Market To Remember

Have you ever had an insatiable craving for a food you’ve never had? Like nostalgia for something you’ve never done before, it feels so intimately familiar, so deeply embedded within your psyche, that it’s impossible to separate from your actual lived experience. For me, such is the case for Taiwanese popcorn chicken.

I can smell the fragrant oil infused with five spice and soy sauce, feel the crisp batter shattering between my teeth, and taste the heady umami of the entire composition blending into one arresting high note, like a flavor so loud you can actually hear it. Forgive me for waxing poetic, but if there was ever a dish to command such flowery prose, this is it.

Ingredient Upgrades

For me, the barrier to recreating my false memory of Taiwanese popcorn chicken isn’t replacing the poultry. Thick, juicy Donko Sugimoto shiitake mushroom caps, which come with the added bonus of ample umami already built in, make that a snap. Rather, it’s the mental block I encounter when considering deep-frying foods. Tending all that scalding hot oil just isn’t a fun prospect when cravings strike, which is why I opted for the healthier, less dangerous approach of air frying. Don’t worry, it’s not a sacrifice; the results are every bit as golden brown, crispy, and delicious.

Shining a Light on Taiwanese Night Market Street Eats

Taiwanese popcorn chicken, or yan su ji (鹽酥雞), is a beloved street food that’s a fundamental pillar of Taiwan’s bustling night markets. Quick to prepare, cheap, and easy to eat without breaking your stride, this snack is often served out of bags and eaten using toothpicks. Meant for sharing, perfect to pair with a few drinks, it’s a solid plan to either kick off or wind down your evening with an order.

Unforgettable Flavors

Deceptively simple, as many of the best things are, because the secret is in the seasoning. White pepper and Sichuan peppercorns create a warm, tingling heat that grows without stinging the sinuses, introducing a mala (mouth-numbing) sensation with a citrus-y brightness. You can feel the flame without getting burned, wild as that may sound. It’s hard to describe because it’s more than a basic flavor, which is a large part of the appeal.

Fresh basil leaves get the same treatment, fried for just a moment, until crisp and almost translucent. Balancing out the complete array of flavors with an herbal, sweet, and pungent finish, it’s another example of contrasting elements working in harmony. It’s a perfect microcosm of Taiwan’s approach to food: bold, intricate, and crafted with finesse.

Swaps and Substitutions

Given such a short list of ingredients, each one counts. Donko Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms are a non-negotiable. Firmer and thicker than plebeian shiitakes, they have a deeper, more concentrated and intense umami flavor to match. If you don’t spring for the real deal, it won’t measure up. Aside from that core component, there is some room for adaptation and substitutions:

  • Soy Sauce – Tamari or coconut aminos are great swaps, and you can opt for low-sodium versions if you’d like.
  • Chinkiang (Zhenjiang) Black Vinegar – Sweeter and more mellow than most vinegars, this is one I could drink straight from the bottle. In a pinch, aged balsamic can take its place.
  • Five-Spice Powder – Ratios vary depending on who you ask, but here’s how I like to mix mine up at home. Combine 2 Tablespoons Ground Star Anise, 2 Tablespoons Crushed Cinnamon Stick Pieces, 2 Teaspoons Ground Fennel Seeds, 2 Teaspoons Ground Ginger, and 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cloves in a coffee or spice grinder and pulverize everything to a fine, consistent powder.
  • Granulated Sugar – It’s a teeny tiny mount, but if you must keep things strictly sugar-free, use a drop of liquid stevia or monk fruit concentrate instead.
  • White Pepper – Ground ginger or mustard, while not an exact match, can fill the gaps, though I’d strongly suggest you not trying to make this trade for best results.
  • :Tapioca Starch, Cornstarch, or Potato Starch – Still need more options? Fine! Pick a starch, any starch: Arrowroot, wheat starch, sweet potato starch, cassava flour, rice flour or any combination should do the trick.
  • Sichuan Peppercorns – There’s no replacing the mala sensation, but you could create a reasonably satisfying piquancy with ground black pepper and a pinch of lemon zest.
  • Shiitake Powder or MSG – You can never have too much umami. Though optional, these put the dish over the top.

Memories In The Making

Even without legitimate memories of Taiwanese popcorn chicken, popcorn shiitake far exceeds them. Rich, meaty shiitake mushrooms have a big umami advantage, and use a fraction of the oil it would take for the traditional deep-fried approach. You get all the spicy, crispy, savory satisfaction to create a fresh, lasting impression—for real this time.

Continue reading “A Night Market To Remember”

Thanksgiving Wild Card

It’s a shame that most people turn to wild rice only when Thanksgiving rolls around, though with such a strong and legitimate historical association, they should be forgiven. I am also one of those people, forgetting all about this straw-like black aquatic grass until November, then quickly shuffling it into the back of my mental Rolodex until next year. Though it takes the same amount of time and effort as brown rice, something about cooking it feels like an event.

Wild About Wild Rice

In truth, wild rice stuffing (or dressing, depending on your upbringing) is just a seasonal pilaf or salad, served warm. Would it detract from the magic to make it for a 4th of July backyard BBQ, a birthday party potluck, or a random Tuesday in April? Certainly not, and yet, when that bountiful dish of toothsome, nutty whole grains comes out on the fourth Thursday in November, it sets the scene with a final flourish, dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s on a carefully curated menu.

The All-American Whole Grain

Wild rice, a pseudograin that has captured the hearts and palates of many, is deeply intertwined with Indigenous cultures, particularly the Anishinaabe people of the Great Lakes region. Known as “manoomin,” or “good berry,” it thrives in shallow waters, where it has been hand-harvested for over a thousand years, using canoes and cedar sticks to gently knock the grains into waiting vessels. Wild rice is not only a staple food but also a vital part of spiritual practices and community gatherings, symbolizing harmony with nature. With its impressive nutritional profile, rich in protein, fiber, and antioxidants, wild rice has sustained generations. As we gather to give thanks, incorporating this ancient grain not only enriches our meals but also honors the Indigenous traditions that have shaped American foodways.

Spice Up Your Rice

If you only eat wild rice once a year, let’s make it count. Banish bland boxed mixes and spice things up this year. Fresh jalapeño and Thai bird’s eye chili bring the heat, tempered by the sweet citrus flavor of orange juice, juicy red apples, and a touch of maple syrup. Aromatic and herbaceous, it’s bold yet plays well with others, livening up the typical guest list without commanding all the attention. At the very least, it should remind you not to overlook wild rice yet again.

Continue reading “Thanksgiving Wild Card”

Drum Roll, Please

Evolved and intelligent as we may be, there’s something about the primal urge to gnaw into beastly drumsticks that’s irrepressible. At renaissance fairs and Disney parks alike, the oversized turkey legs parading through the crowds are as much an attraction as any games or rides. Is it really our primitive instincts to hunt and gather that draw us in, or the modern spectacle of it now? Certainly, it’s not the seasoning. Bland, dry to the bone, sinewy as a ball of string, these are not the drumsticks of the discerning eater.

THESE are. Entirely meatless, each hefty shank is a plant protein dynamo. Upcycled pineapple cores serve as the “bones,” creating the signature drumstick appearance while infusing their tropical, sweet flavor into every bite. Delicate sheets of yuba encase a blend of shredded Sugimoto Shiitake and jackfruit, bound together with seitan to create a texture you can really sink your teeth into. The tofu skin exterior even becomes crispy while cooking! Then, lacquered with a sticky, tangy, and savory pineapple teriyaki sauce, it takes on a glossy golden finish that would satisfy even the most primordial desires.

Meet Your New Meat

Developing the ideal vegan drumstick took more than the typical amount of trial and error. Instead of just one standard meat substitute, it took the combination of a few crafty swaps working in concert to create the full range of textures and umami flavors.

  • Koshin shiitake caps, broad, flat, and thin, are finely sliced to amplify the natural muscular appearance of shredded young jackfruit. Jackfruit alone can be rather flavorless, if not woody, which is why the meatiness of shiitake is so essential here.
  • It takes vital wheat gluten to act as the “glue” holding it all together. It creates the characteristic chew of meat, while adding moisture and cohesion to the filling.
  • Yuba, pure soy protein, wraps the package up with a bow. While I’ve seen similar concepts using rice paper for the outer skin, yuba is far tastier, easier to work with, and more nutritious.

Tips For Success

Let’s be real: This is no 30-minute meal. It takes time and planning, best saved for a special occasion when you want to go all out. That said, it’s not a difficult recipe, just a bit time-consuming. Prep in stages and think of it as an edible craft project to fully enjoy the process.

    1. Make the teriyaki sauce first… Or don’t. You want it to be cooled and fully thickened before slathering it on your meatless drumsticks, and it keeps in the fridge for 1 – 2 weeks, easily. On the other hand, there’s no shame in taking shortcuts here; you could absolutely buy ready-made teriyaki sauce and skip all that work.
    2. Wrap that yuba up tight! Nobody wants to end up with loose skin.
    3. Reinforce your pineapple cores with skewers, optionally. Unlike animal bones, they become softer after cooking, so you can’t really pick these drumsticks up by the handle and take a chomp out of them. Personally, I feel they’re best suited to the fork-and-knife treatment anyway, so you don’t end up with sauce smeared all over your face. If you’re determined to make these as finger food though, thread a wooden skewer through the core first, to keep it more stable.

  1. Be gentle with your yuba. It’s a fragile, paper-thin sheet of solidified soymilk; of course it’s prone to ripping. Fresh is really best here, since dried tends to be thicker, and more likely to have broken in transit. Soak your fresh yuba in warm water for a few minutes before gently easing the sheets apart. They’re much harder to work with straight out the fridge.
  2. Give them space while steaming and baking. The meatless stuffing inside does expand and plump a bit as it cooks.

March To The Beat Of Your Own Drumstick

Pineapple teriyaki simply made sense as a complete package here, but the options for flavor variations are endless. First of all, don’t feel that you’re bound to using a pineapple core for the bone. Not everyone regularly buys whole pineapples, and maybe that’s just not the vibe for dinner that day. You can omit it entirely to make more of a chicken breast facsimile, or replace it with pieces of sugarcane or simply wooden popsicle sticks.

From there, consider your sauce. You could go in a spicier direction with buffalo sauce, or keep it classic with plant-based butter and herbs. Then we have BBQ sauce for a smokier kick, pomegranate molasses and za’atar for Middle Eastern flare, and so on, and so forth. You’ll run out of drumsticks long before you run out of ideas.

Go ahead, embrace your inner cave-person. Soothe your lizard brain with the meat it’s really craving; healthier, tastier, and happier for all creatures involved. These vegan drumsticks are better than all the rest.

Continue reading “Drum Roll, Please”

Canoodle With A Kugel

Kugel, a staple of classic Jewish cuisine, is frequently weighed down in a stodgy pudding of pasta, cream cheese, raisins, and apples. This sweet intrusion on the dinner table never appealed to me as a kid, which is why I always stuck to the savory side of the street when composing my own casseroles. Further improve upon the concept by swapping out those starchy noodles with wide ribbons of spiralized zucchini, instantly transforming the outdated side dish into a truly worthy dinner guest.

By replacing the typical egg noodles with tender, springy ribbons of spiralized zucchini, we not only lighten the dish but also elevate the flavor. Zucchini adds a subtle sweetness and almost silky texture when baked, creating a kugel unlike any other. As an added bonus, that makes it naturally gluten-free (and of course still kosher, as always), so everyone can freely partake. Would it be equally apt to call it a zucchini hotdish? Sure, but isn’t a conventional noodle kugel just a pasta hotdish, too?

The beauty of the zoodle kugel lies in its ease and versatility. Using a spiralizer, it comes together in a snap while dirtying minimal additional dishes, and you can just as quickly customize it with your favorite savory additions. Think: caramelized onions and garlicky mushrooms, thinly shaved fennel and fresh dill, or roasted red peppers and sun-dried tomatoes. The possibilities are endless, making this kugel a keeper all year round, adaptable for any occasion.

Next time you’re craving comfort food with a twist, consider the humble zoodle kugel. It bridges the gap between tradition and innovation, offering a taste of nostalgia alongside a fresh, seasonal flavor. It’s a kugel that’s worthy of a place at any dinner table, settling the debate between sweet or savory… At least for one course.

Continue reading “Canoodle With A Kugel”