Scout’s Honor

Shredded coconut bums me out. Sweetened or not; long strands or short sprinkles; flat flakes or coarse grounds; I cringe inwardly every time that distinctive ingredient pops up in a recipe. I love coconut in general, but the moment as you deprive it of moisture and distill it down to only its most fibrous components, you’ve lost me as a fan. As a result, shredded coconut tends to sit around in my freezer for unconscionable amounts of time. After fulfilling its duty for whatever assignment it was called for, I have no inclination to consume it myself. That’s why I’m thrilled to pack it up in a caramel tart and pawn it off on others.

Coconut Head

The beloved girl scout samoa cookie inspired this supersized snack, employing a simple shortbread crust topped with that cursed coconut filling, finished with a liberal drizzle of dark chocolate. Quick, uncomplicated, and straight to the point, there’s no better way I can think of to use up a full 3 cups of shredded coconut in one go.

Worthy of a Baking Merit Badge

Samoas, not to be confused with Indian samosas, sometimes go by the name of Caramel deLites, depending on which troops do the baking. First being offered on the girl scout menu in 1975, the only explanation for the original name is that it likely aligns with the island of Samoa, where coconut is one of its major exports. Seems a bit random to me, given all the possible sources for coconut products, but I wasn’t the one who chose the title.

Lightly toasted and wrapped up in a gooey yet sliceable brown sugar substrate, resting just beneath a thin veneer of chocolate and comfortably nested on top of a crisp, slightly crumbly crust, shredded coconut is utterly transformed. My surplus was immediately plundered, as slice after slice hit plates, then to-go containers for seconds and midnight snacks.

Did this finally change my tune on the desiccated dread? Absolutely not. I’m just happy to find a compelling approach for using it up and sharing with others. To each their own, although better together; coconut lovers are welcome here to eat all of it for me.

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Cake Is The Answer, No Matter The Question

What exactly is “birthday cake flavor”? Given that a birthday cake is any cake you’ve graciously invited to the party, this abstract flavoring has less to do with the reality and diversity of celebratory desserts, and more to do with a collective American nostalgia surrounding them.

For my real birthday cake, I’d love something with matcha and pistachio; taro and praline; tonka bean and yuzu; anything but plain vanilla. And yet, if we’re talking about birthday cake flavor, or cake batter flavor, for that matter, that’s exactly what I’d crave.

Typically, birthday cake flavor is a nostalgic mix of:

  • Vanilla, being the classic and popular base flavor that most birthday cakes use
  • Buttery richness, often from a combination of moist, buttery baked layers and whipped buttercream frosting
  • Sweetness, found in ample supply throughout, in varying degrees of sugar-coma inducing saccharinity
  • Sprinkles, for a pop of color that looks like edible confetti, becoming a veritable pinata full of candy in every bite

So, for my 36 birthday, I’d like to share some cake with you, that brings together these elements that transcend actual cake, but invoke an overall feeling of joy, fun, and the festivity for the occasion. This recipe for Birthday Cake Ice Cream is straight out of my cookbook, Vegan à la Mode, which is still a reliable reference to this day.

As I pitched it then, ten years ago: No longer do you have to struggle with deciding between cake and ice cream; have them both in one frozen dessert! If it is simply too hot to turn on the oven, you can cheat a bit and purchase 6 vegan cupcakes instead of baking your own. Just scrape off the frosting before blending them up to make your frozen creation.

For a single serving twist, instead of moving the finished ice cream into a container to be served up in scoops, pack the soft ice cream into sturdy cupcake cups and let freeze solid. Right before eating or presenting them, pipe or spoon a dollop of frosting on top. Voila, a genuine ice cream cupcake!

Please join me in commemorating my latest milestone with the idea of birthday cake, with all the indulgence and festivity tied to the act of celebrating. I’ll scoop to that.

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Home Is Where The Chocolate Is

What makes a house a home? In the case of a gingerbread house, it’s about sugar and spice, of course, but it’s the personal touches that make it special. Just like you would lovingly decorate your own living spaces, each culinary construction project is an opportunity to bring your unique aesthetic to life. I’ve always relished the idea of making a gingerbread house for the holidays but rarely went through with it. Daunted by the process, it seems too difficult or time-consuming at a glance.

This year, I committed to pushing through that mental barrier to make myself a genuine gingerbread home at last. Seeing as I finally got my first home in real life this year, it’s only fitting to make a suitable tribute. Naturally, incorporating a few unconventional ingredients, my entry is anything but standard.

Choco-Rooms

Rich Dutch-processed cocoa creates the characteristic dark panels on my edible abode as a stark departure from the mahogany brown of conventional cookies. This in itself is nothing new, however; you’ll find a recipe for “cocoa-nut gingerbread” cookies printed in the 1845 cookbook, Modern Cookery, In All Its Branches, and no doubt earlier versions if you keep digging. What these early bakers didn’t think to include is the ultimate all-purpose flavor enhancer, otherwise known as Sugimoto shiitake powder.

Mushrooms are sprouting out in all sorts of foods and drinks, from coffee to cakes, owing to their nutritional prowess and, in the case of shiitake’s abundant free glutamate, ability to amplify existing flavors to even greater resonance. No, it won’t make your sweets taste mushroomy, as proven by my shiitake vanilla ice cream. You won’t know it’s there, per say, but once you taste the difference, you will know if it’s missing.

Building Up The Gingerbread House Legacy

Long before pumpkins found their spice, gingerbread was the defacto flavor of the holiday season. As the spice trade flourished in the Middle Ages, ginger became more accessible, paving the way for the evolution of gingerbread into a dessert worthy of celebration. By the 15th century, gingerbread had made its way to Europe, where it began to take on new forms. In Germany, it was often molded into intricate shapes for festivals and fairs. This was also the era when the famed Nuremberg gingerbread, known as “Lebkuchen,” gained popularity, featuring a complex blend of spices and nuts.

However, it was the story of Hansel and Gretel that truly solidified gingerbread’s place in the holiday canon. The Brothers Grimm’s fairy tale, published in the early 19th century, painted a picture of an enchanted house made entirely of gingerbread and candy, capturing the imaginations of children and adults alike. Inspired by this tale, gingerbread houses began to emerge as a holiday tradition, continuing into the modern era, where families would gather to create their own edible cottages adorned with sweets.

Iced Out

Skip the conventional royal icing mortar in favor of pure melted chocolate to build a better home. Aside from the obvious flavor benefits, it’s much easier to work with, piping out smoothly or spreading on thick, and sets up very quickly in a reasonably cool kitchen. If you need to speed things along, just set your pieces in the fridge for a few minutes, and they’ll be good to go. I wanted to keep mine simple, sticking with only dark chocolate for all my embellishments, but you can go all-out with vegan white chocolate, colored sanding sugar, candies, fresh herbs, and any other edible decor your heart desires. It’s your house after all; raise the roof!

Build It Better

Based on my fool-proof Gingerbread Cut-Out Cookies recipe, this formula has already stood the test of time. After 13 years and untold adaptations, it simply never fails. The dough is sturdy, easy to roll out thinly without cracking, and barely spreads while baking. You could absolutely make classic gingerbread people and call it a day, no house required. These cookies make for excellent gifts or additions to any holiday party.

A house isn’t built overnight, and neither is a gingerbread house. Well, yes, while it’s possible for the early risers and truly ambitious, I find it much more enjoyable (and less stressful) to bake the pieces one day, apply basic decorations and piping once completely cooled, and assemble them the next. For more construction advice, see my previous post about best gingerbread house building practices.

Chocolate gingerbread, enhanced by the subtle umami undercurrent of shiitake powder, could be the next big thing for seasonal sweets. Rich dark chocolate and the warm spice of gingerbread, elevated by the depth of umami from shiitake powder, is the unlikely combination I personally can’t get enough of. Go ahead; embrace the holiday season with an eye towards nostalgia but an appetite for something new. In this sweet home, all are welcome.

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Tarted Up Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potato casseroles, adorned with gooey toasted marshmallows, or sweet potato pie, gently wobbling atop a buttery crust, are classic staples of the American Thanksgiving feast. Gleaming orange beacons glowing amidst a sea of amber brown, their warm sunset hues adds a splash of color so desperately needed in this largely monochrome meal. There’s more than just the stereotypical orange yam to liven up your grand spread, though. In fact, there’s a whole rainbow of sweet potatoes that would love an invite, for dinner, dessert, or both.

Flipping Delicious

Tarte tatin flips the idea of conventional pastry on its head, so why not give it an extra twist to keep your taste buds spinning? Apples are synonymous with this French invention that dates back to the late 19th century, where legend has it that a distracted cook by the name of Stéphanie Tatin accidentally built their pie upside-down. Whether or not there’s any truth to the story of such an egregious blunder, there’s no doubt that the dessert itself has withstood the rest of time. Why should apples have all the fun, though? Sweet potatoes, full of natural sugar, caramelize against the heat of the metal pan, cooking to a soft, creamy texture to contrast against flaky puff pastry. One quick flip and you’ve got a whole table side performance to serve along with the final course. If you’re the type of family that likes their sweets alongside their savories, it’s an equally compelling addition to the main menu.

Shades Of Potatoes

Purple potatoes are no longer the shocking rarity they once were, but they can still be tricky to shop for. Many are simply labeled as “Japanese sweet potatoes” despite the fact that there are many varieties within that broad subcategory. Just because it has purple skin doesn’t mean it has purple flesh, so don’t be misled by exterior appearances. Seek out Purple Stokes, Okinawan, or Molokai sweet potatoes specifically for the best, most vibrant results. White sweet potatoes are no different, often surprising unsuspecting cooks with the shock of pale flesh lurking beneath the peel. Murasaki Sweet Potatoes, Hannah Yams, and Bonita are your best bets. Orange sweet potatoes are commonplace, but for tubers of distinction keep your eyes peeled for Garnet, Jewel, and Beauregard sweet potatoes.

Serving With Style

Glossy, glazed with rich caramel syrup, the paper thin spuds glisten as their soft edges catch the light. It seems like a shame to cover such a work of art with any sort of topping, and truly, there’s no need to. A thin slice feels much more substantial on the fork, with all the richness and body you need to complete feel wholly satiated. For those craving just one last flourish, whipped coconut cream or vanilla bean ice cream, delicately melting into the warm surface, will never steer you wrong. On the opposite side of the flavor spectrum, bitter dark chocolate sauce or crunchy cacao nibs could help take down the sweetness a few notches, as would a bracing cup of hot coffee on the side. To amplify the texture of the crispy puffed crust, sprinkle toasted pepitas, sliced almonds, or chopped pecans all over, which are perfectly paired with any other toppings, too.

More Taters, Less Haters

All sweet potatoes are beautiful, gnarled roots, pock-marked skins, and all. If you’re not fortunate enough to find a full rainbow of options at your disposal, don’t despair! Even if you chose just one color, be it the classic orange or jewel-toned purple sweet potato, your tarte tatin will provide a radiant vision of autumn’s bounty, condensed.

Think you’ve already covered the potato portion of the program this Thanksgiving? Dig a little deeper. Aesthetics aside, expanding your array of sweet potatoes adds that much more depth and nuance in the flavor department, unlocking a wide range of nutty, honeyed notes. Layered together in an effortlessly elegant overlapping spiral of poly-chromatic slices, the singular beige interior of your average apple can’t compete. Tarte tatin was meant to be so much colder and brighter; this is one simple yet stunning dessert that will always turn out.

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The Tangled Webs We Weave

Did you know that the average person eats around eight spiders every year? This is a rough figure covering accidental consumption while sleeping, mind you, not taking into account cultures that relish their deep-fried tarantulas on a stick. Unsettling though that thought may be, I wonder if we could use some Halloween magic to make these statistics more palatable.

Tasty Transmogrification

What if we transformed those spiders into chocolate? Perhaps these arachnids could serve as surrogates to satisfy the spider-eating quota, or at least shift the balance. Daintily crawling across the delicate edible web baked into a soft, buttery cheesecake, this is a dessert that may haunt your dreams, but not your nightmares.

Enchanting All Five Senses

Perched atop a cocoa crust, the rich lemon cheesecake itself is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. Bright, tangy, yet subtle and understated, the delicate dance of citrus and tart pomegranate is enhanced by a gentle hint of ginger. Smooth and luxurious, melting in your mouth and leaving behind a refreshing, almost ethereal aftertaste, the interplay of flavors is like a symphony, each note perfectly in tune.

Creepy Crawly Cuisine

An ideal centerpiece for any Halloween gathering, this understated yet arresting dessert is sure to impress your guests. If the unique design isn’t a sufficient conversation starter, you can always drop that fun fact about sleep-eating spiders for greater effect.

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