Pleased as Ponche

Ponche is a lot of things, drawing parallels to innumerable other festive drinks. You could see it as being related to mulled cider, stewed with warm spices and served steaming on cold winter nights. The inclusion of fruits calls to mind sangria, even more so if it happens to be spiked, though more likely with brandy, rum, or tequila than wine. Fruit punch, of course, given that the name translates about the same, has an obvious relation. Mexican ponche, however, is its own unique party starter, even when it defies easy definition.

Paantsch, Ponche, Punch

Ponche has come a long way to reach its current destination as a Latin holiday staple. Originally from India, it was called “paantsch,” meaning “five,” and was accordingly made with five basic ingredients: alcohol, fruit juice, sugar, water, and spices. British sailors became hooked on the brew, bringing it with them on their travels to Europe and the West Indies, adapting it to use local fruits. The Spanish eventually introduced the drink to Mexico, where it was developed into the distinctive drink we know and love today, transformed by the native fruits of the Americas.

Key Ingredients

What makes Mexican ponche special is also what makes it difficult to replicate faithfully in different parts of the world. Key ingredients that may not be as common in US households include:

  • Piloncillo: Unrefined dark brown sugar, often sold in hard cones or blocks, to be chopped, grated, or dissolved in hot liquids, such as this.
  • Tecojotes: AKA Mexican hawthorn, similar to crabapples, they have a sweet and sour tropical flavor, and can be eaten both raw and cooked.

Fortunately, there are as many versions of ponche as there are people that make it, so there’s nothing wrong with a bit of improvising based on availability. This is one of those recipes that’s more like a set of guidelines than rules, open to interpretation as you please.

Serves You Right

Both a drink and a snack, a huge asset to busy hosts is the way it’s served as is, whole fruits and all. Guests can help themselves while the pot simmers gently on the stove, infusing the whole house with citrus and spice. Whether you chose to spike it or not, it’s sure to raise spirits with just one sip.

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Spirited Secrets of Japan

Distinctly different from sake, and don’t you dare call it soju, shochu flies under the radar in most western liquor stores, yet is Japan’s top-selling spirit. Celebrated as the country’s national spirit, the fact that it’s nearly unknown to outsiders makes it feel like a poorly kept secret, whispered between izakaya stools while being passed around openly by patrons. Hidden in plain sight, shochu is primed for greater appreciation worldwide. Complex, storied, and incredibly versatile, I’m willing to wager that it’s the bottle missing on your bar cart right now.

Distilling the Highlights of Shochu

Shochu is a distilled spirit, bottled at no more than 45% ABV, and typically ranges quite a bit less. However, 24% ABV or lower isn’t even a thing in Japan. If you’ve seen something labeled “shochu” in California at wine-cooler strength, odds are it’s either a legal workaround or just plain mislabeling. To make things more confusing, some of it has been labeled as Korean soju to comply with the law.

Critical to the identity of shochu, it must be single-distilled. Because there’s only one pass through a pot still, every element leaves a strong impression.

Shochu can be made from just three ingredients. Some go solo while others create a blend from the full trio:

  • Sweet potato (imo) – earthy, funky, rich.
  • Barley (mugi) – nutty, clean, almost toasty.
  • Rice (kome) – soft, smooth, slightly floral.

Sweet potato and barley together account for 95% of shochu sales in Japan, which says a lot about the national palate. It’s grounded, earthy, umami, and robust.

Koji Craft

No matter the foundation of the ferment, shochu owes its depth to koji, the mold-based starter that’s the catalyst for transforming sugars into alcohol. Shochu producers employ a whole spectrum, and the differences dramatically affect flavor and aroma, creating unique regional styles.

  • White Koji Starter: This is the most common type used in shochu today. What’s wild is that it was actually discovered by accident as mutation from black koji. White koji is prized for its bright, balanced acidity and the ability to work well in both spirits and fermented foods that favor a cleaner, paler appearance, like white miso or amazake. It brings a gentle sweetness to shochu and is a go-to for distillers aiming for a crisp, clean finish.
  • Yellow Koji Starter: When koji mold sporulates, it forms yellowish-green spores—these are yellow koji starters. Traditionally used in foods like miso, amazake, and shio koji, yellow koji brings light, fruity, floral notes and low acidity. While it’s a staple in sake brewing, it’s less common in shochu. It forges delicate and nuanced flavors, but is not built for high temperatures or extended aging.
  • Black Koji Starter: Indigenous to Okinawa, black koji is the backbone of awamori, the bold, funkier counterpoint to shochu. Black koji thrives in hot, humid regions thanks to its high acidity, which naturally inhibits bacteria growth and spoilage. Flavor-wise, it’s earthy, spicy, and rich, full of character and perfect for deep, complex spirits with a bit of edge.

Cheers, To Your Health!

Besides being easy on the palate, shochu is refreshingly kind to your body, relative to other spirits. That’s because it’s…

  1. Lower in calories
  2. Additive-free by law (no artificial flavorings, colors, or added sugars)
  3. Historically recommended to combat gout, thanks to its very low purine content (¡Not medical advice!)

Mix It Up

While shochu is often enjoyed straight, on the rocks, or with hot water in Japan, it plays beautifully in cocktails. Clean, nuanced, and never overpowering, it blends seamlessly into many classics. For example, in a Sour, shochu’s crisp character complements the tang of citrus without overwhelming it, offering a sophisticated balance that’s both smooth and refreshing. In a Julep, barley shochu’s nutty, toasty notes blend beautifully with fresh mint and crushed ice, giving a lighter, more layered version of the traditional mint julep. You may not think it could stand up to the strong flavors of an Old Fashioned, yet aged barley shochu is often compared to whiskey for its dark, warm, subtly smoky notes.

With shochu, the goal is not to overpower but to enhance the flavors, creating cocktails that feel refined yet approachable—perfect for those looking for something familiar but with a new, subtly complex spin.

Start Sipping Today

It’s honestly baffling that shochu doesn’t enjoy even a fraction of the same popularity overseas. In 2022, Japan produced more shochu than Mexico produced tequila, and yet, many in the US have still never heard of it. In some ways, maybe that’s the beauty of it. Shochu doesn’t need to be flashy to be great. It just needs the right moment to find you, whether it’s a quiet night at home, a dinner with friends, or a curious detour through your local Japanese market.

Desert Door

J.R.R Tolkein once said that of all the phrases in the English language, of all the endless combinations of words in all of history, that “cellar door” is the most beautiful. I would argue that this is only because the phrase Desert Door hadn’t yet been introduced to linguistic discourse.

Tucked away in a sleepy corner of the Texas Hill Country, Desert Door feels more like a southwestern resort than a distillery. Adorned with carefully curated cacti, earthen textures, and playful string lights, the dog-friendly patio implores visitors to come on in and stay a while. The spirited hum of live music drifts in and out of animated conversations between friends, all while beverages slowly dwindle.

So… What Is Sotol?

Comparisons to tequila are unavoidable; both come from Mexico, both are distilled spirits, both are made from resilient desert plants. Sotol, however, is made from the Dasylirion, also known as the desert spoon. Native to West Texas and northern Mexico, it’s a scrappy little plant that survives on limestone, sun, and stubbornness. Another near neighbor is mezcal, which is a similar agave-based spirit that has a much smokier, more savory character than sotol. Aging, infusing, and generally tweaking the distilling process can create many overlapping qualities that makes their differences increasingly difficult to distinguish.

How It’s Made

Harvested wild by hand, the hearts of the desert spoon are steamed, fermented, and then triple distilled into a crystal-clear spirit. Desert Door crafts three distinct expressions of their sotol, each telling a different story of the land.

  • The Original is smooth and bright, with hints of citrus, green herbs, and a clean finish; this is the one most would compare to traditional tequila.
  • The Oak-Aged spends at least one year resting in American white oak barrels, soaking in notes of toffee, dried fruit, and warm baking spices, not unlike whiskey.
  • Most unique and my personal favorite is the Conservation Series infused with botanicals like mesquite, honeysuckle, and sage that evoke the impression of gin, but without the polarizing taste of juniper.

The folks at Desert Door are passionate about doing things right: sustainable ingredients, zero-waste operations, and a fierce loyalty to their Texan terroir. Even if you’re not usually a spirits person, sotol feels surprisingly accessible. It’s the kind of versatile liquor that plays well with others, be it citrus, herbs, fresh fruits, or just a single ice cube, melting slowly like a summer sunset.

A Taste of Texas in a Glass

Naturally, I couldn’t leave without trying a cocktail (or two). While the tasting flight gave me a deep appreciation for the spirit on its own, I found that sotol truly sings in cocktails, where its earthy elegance can mingle and unfold alongside bright, bold flavors. The on-site bar offered a handful of inventive, locally-rooted options, but one drink in particular bloomed on the palate like a cactus flower after rare desert rain: a Prickly Pear Margarita. Vibrant, jewel-toned, and ever so slightly wild, it balanced sotol’s herbal backbone with a sweet-tart burst of prickly pear and just enough lime to make the whole thing sparkle. It’s grounding and uplifting all at once, much like the distillery itself.

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Who Glows There?

Tell the truth: Are you afraid of the dark?

It’s okay, you’re not alone… Although, you may wish you were…

Boo!

Glowing like an unearthly phantom in the night, this arresting fluorescence is in fact quite natural. Quinine, the key ingredient in tonic water, is responsible for creating this ghoulish aura. It may have a very faint glow in regular sunlight, but turns brightly, vividly blue when illuminated by ultraviolet (UV) light, AKA “black light.”

You could easily harness this black magic with any old glass of gin and tonic, but for Halloween, why not have a bit more fun with this party trick? Skull ice cube molds are a must for the full effect, if you ask me, but any silicone ice cube tray will work just fine.

Not a fan of the classic G&T?

You’ve got options! The only critical component is tonic water, leaving the accompanying spirits and flavors up for creative interpretation. Consider a few other effortless, tried-and-true variations on the theme:

  • Rum and tonic
  • Vodka tonic
  • Whiskey tonic
  • Aperol tonic

Hosting kids or non-drinkers?

If you want to share a festive drink that packs less of a punch, you can still have lots of fun without the booze. Swap the spirits for any fruit juice, soda, or zero-proof mixers for more flavorful, less intoxicating options.

How do you make a classic gin and tonic?

First mixed up in the mid-1800s to combat Malaria, the gin and tonic is a classic cocktail for good reason. Quinine is a genuinely therapeutic ingredient that can be used to effectively treat the ailment, while gin and a splash of lime helps the medicine go down, as they say. The basic ratio is as simple as they come:

  • 1:3 is the standard proportion, which translates to 2 ounces of gin for every 5-6 ounces of tonic water. Just don’t forget to add a touch of fresh lime juice, too!
  • Like everything else, it’s a matter of personal taste, so you may see some particularly strong mixes that use equal parts gin and tonic water.

How to make a Grim and Tonic for Halloween

Let’s not over-complicate things here; the “grim” and tonic is absolutely the same as a traditional G&T, but with frozen tonic water instead of plain ice cubes. This has the added benefit of not watering down the drink while still keeping it perfectly chilled and brilliantly refreshing. All it takes is one little trick to make this one hell of a devilish treat for celebrating All Hallows’ Eve with.