Controversial Cabbage

Latkes are sacred. I don’t mean that in a biblical sense, but maybe that does apply in this case, too. Latkes are the real meaning of Hanukkah, the nexus of the holiday that connect the miracle of the oil with community, comfort, and abundance. Potatoes themselves take a place of honor at the table, forever reliable for their culinary prowess. That’s why I’ve been steeling myself for this blog post; I know I’m about to upset a lot of people. I made latkes with cabbage instead of potatoes.

Please, put your pitchforks away! Don’t rescind my invitation to the party yet! By no means am I suggesting that cabbage latkes are better than the beloved potato latkes. As a food writer, I know my job is to sell you on my latest creation, convincing you that it’s unbeatable, it’s life-changing, it’s the thing you never knew you needed.

Maybe the last is true, because I’ve never heard anyone take a plate of golden, immaculately crisp potato latkes and say, “You know what these need? 100% more cabbage.”

Honestly, I don’t know where the idea came from, other than the fact that I like cabbage and happened to have it around. I started making cabbage latkes well into late summer, biding my time and practicing my pitch for this day. I’ve come to find that they somewhat resemble Latvian kāpostu kotletes, which Google invariably translates as “cabbage cutlets.” If there could possibly be a more disappointing way to set expectations for this dish, it would be to call them cabbage cutlets. So, cabbage latkes it is.

Golden-crisp on the edges, tender in the center, this more vegetal reimagining of the classic potato pancake looks suspiciously similar to the original inspiration. Shredded green cabbage, kissed with just enough salt to coax out its sweet, earthy essence, forms the backbone of this comforting fritter. Not heavy or greasy, a lacy latticework of browned fringes gives way to a savory, onion-scented interior.

Hopefully this doesn’t turn into a scandal akin to the great Pea Guacamole Controversy that rocked the culinary world a few years back. If it would make you more comfortable, go ahead and call them cabbage fritters. No one is coming to take away your potatoes. I’m only suggesting you might enjoy making space for cabbage, too.

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Know Your Onions

I have a question for you, and I want you to really think hard on it. Take a minute to comb through your memory archives before answering. It’s imperative that you mull it over, forward and backwards, backwards and forwards again.

Have you ever eaten a dish and thought, “there are too many onions in this.”

No. The answer is no. Unless you took a chomp out of a whole raw onion, it’s not humanly possible. Cooked onions in any form have no limit. No point of diminishing returns. Sauteed, fried, caramelized, dried, and even steamed or boiled; onions are the unassailable backbone of all cuisine.

French Onion Soup puts onions back on the pedestal where they belong. Not lurking in the shadows, hidden from the spotlight while doing all of the real work behind the scenes, it’s one of the few dishes where they get to shine. Even self-proclaimed vegetable haters will go to town on this steakhouse classic, luxuriously rich despite sporting the most basic of ingredients.

This concept is nothing new. My version isn’t special. It is, however, delicious, and delicious things are best shared. In case you didn’t already have a French onion soup in your repertoire, consider this the one to save.

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Hot Stuff

When I want to get stuffed, I’m not talking about eating so much I feel like bursting. Rather, I’m craving morsels of that are stuffed within edible wrappers, bundles of sweet and savory surprises that unfurl themself on the palate. Understated or elaborate, celebratory or simply making ends meet, stuffed foods manage to transform everyday ingredients into something extraordinary. Merely taking one component and putting it inside of another makes it far more special than the equivalent laying side by side.

Those thin leaves of limp cabbage aren’t swampy greens the moment you discover they contain multitudes within. Suddenly, you have stuffed cabbage, packed with flavor, warmth, and comfort. Everything from tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, zucchini, and more become edible vessels for culinary creativity. Whether it’s a quick fix snack or a holiday entree, stuffed foods bring an element of joy, like delivering tiny gifts at every meal.

The category of “stuffed foods” is so vast and diverse, it’s hard to define the group as a classification altogether. Paring it down to just stuffed vegetables and fruits, the following recipes are a few of my favorite examples, created and collected over the past couple years. Clearly, I need to get stuffed much more often, too.

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Choke Artist

Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.

What’s In A Name?

When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.

Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen

With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.

  1. Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
  2. Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
  3. Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
  4. Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
  5. Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
  6. Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
  7. Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.

One Killer App

Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.

The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.

Culinary Renaissance

Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.

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