Tag: travel

Kilts. Castles. Bagpipes. Whiskey.

This was the full extent of my knowledge of Scottish culture. As the airplane circled lower into an endless sea of greenery, I took stock of these isolated relics stashed at the periphery of my awareness. Typically the consummate planner, the voracious researcher, this was an unprecedented way to begin a trip. For once, I wanted to enjoy the thrill of experiencing life like a blockbuster movie, without scrolling ahead for the spoilers. Hell, I didn’t even watch the trailer. I had no idea what to expect.

There’s a kind of rugged poetry in Scotland’s landscape; soft moss clinging to jagged stone, fog curling around ancient hills, and skies that seem to shift moods faster than the tide. It’s no wonder the food here is equally storied, shaped by hardship, resilience, and a certain comforting practicality. Today, through a vegan lens, what once may have seemed inaccessible or downright carnivorous is now brimming with possibility.

More than swapping meat for standard store-bought alternatives, local chefs and innovators are rapidly rediscovering the joy of authentic Scottish food for the Scottish people themselves, in a more inclusive, and plant-powered way.

Traditional Fare, Plant-Based Flair

Scotland’s traditional dishes may have been born from necessity, but they were always rooted in comfort. The good news for compassionate eaters is that simple foundation makes them surprisingly easy to veganize.

Makar’s Mash Bar – Vegan Haggis

• Haggis, the iconic national dish, faces stiff prejudice and negative connotations overseas for its traditional use of offal wrapped in sheep’s stomach. In fact, it’s been banned from export to America, deemed illegal due to safety concerns over the use of sheep’s lungs. However, modern haggis has many fewer unsavory components, especially when you look at all the myriad plant-based options. Leaning into the traditional foundation of oats and barley, vegan haggis brings together lentils, mushrooms, and a heady blend of spices in a loose meatloaf-like mixture. It’s a must-try main dish, and honestly one of the best things I ate during my visit.
• Cullen skink, a creamy fish chowder, is tough to find veganized, but easily converted at home. Shredded smoked tofu can replace the typical smoked herring, alongside silky stewed potatoes in a comforting brew of non-dairy milk.
• Scotch pies, often found at bakeries and street stalls, are typically filled with minced meat or steak, but have recently seen vegan revivals, filled with everything from curried lentils to savory soy mince.
• Scotch eggs are about the farthest things from a vegan option as you can find and are thus unlikely to see one on the menu. Starting with a hard boiled egg at the center, the outer wrapping is made from sausage, and then the whole thing is deep-fried. If you’re curious, I highly suggest making your own at home.
• Neeps and tatties, mashed swede and potatoes, respectively, are traditional accompaniments to haggis. The neeps can be made from either rutabaga or turnips, depending on the region.
• Clapshot is what you get when you combine the aforementioned neeps and tatties into one buttery, golden mash, often with chives or onions added.
• Scotch broth is essentially a barley and vegetable soup, made soothing and savory with a deeply caramelized, slow-cooked stock.
• Potato scones (tattie scones), seen on “full breakfast” platters, aren’t the flaky, buttery pastries that most of the world thinks of right away. More like flattened jumbo gnocchi, wedges are pan-seared for a slightly crispy finish, creating a humble flatbread with just flour, mashed potatoes, and oil.
• Stovies, a quintessential leftover dish, is what you get when you say, “to hell with it,” and mix all the potatoes, meat drippings, and mince from the previous meal, thus stewing or “stoving” them altogether.
• Clootie dumpling, a steamed pudding made with breadcrumbs, dried fruit, sugar, and spices, gets its name by being wrapped in a cloth, or “cloot”. It’s much like a softer, fresher fruitcake and often served around the holiday season. Beware of the traditional version that’s typically made with suet (animal fat).
• Cranachan is a sweet celebration of summer berries and harvest oats. Made vegan with whipped coconut cream or aquafaba, toasted oats, whisky, and fresh raspberries, it’s as festive as it is flavorful.
• Tablet is a sugar-rich, buttery, slightly crumbly vanilla fudge. Thought traditionally made with condensed milk, I randomly found vegan versions in both grocery stores and non-descript souvenir shops.

Shared Tables: The Overlap with British Cuisine

If some dishes sound familiar, that’s no accident. Scottish cuisine shares deep roots with broader British food traditions, thanks to centuries of union, trade, and proximity. Many pantry staples, like oats, barley, root vegetables, and beans, are common across the UK.

Loudons New Waverley – Vegan Full Breakfast

You’ll see parallels in dishes like:

• Sausage rolls: Flaky, golden pastries wrapped around a spiced sausage filling, these quick savory bites are found in bakeries and gas stations alike. The vegan version keeps the puff but swaps in herby seitan, lentils, or mushroom-based fillings that deliver the same hearty satisfaction without the heaviness. Often served warm, eaten by hand, and gone in three bites.
• Full breakfast: The Scottish full breakfast is a morning feast meant to fortify you for the wild weather ahead. Vegan versions include grilled tomatoes, baked beans, sautéed mushrooms, meatless black pudding and/or haggis, and an eggless scramble. Add a tattie scone and a cup of strong tea, and you’re ready for anything.
• Fish and chips: Because if it’s not nailed down, they’ll deep-fry it. Vegan takes typically use banana blossom, tofu, soy patties, or eggplant, marinated, battered, and fried until flaky and crisp. Served with thick-cut chips (never called fries here), mushy peas, and a splash of malt vinegar, this classic is just as nostalgic and satisfyingly salty.
• Shepherd’s pie: Traditionally made with minced lamb, this dish has found a gentler heart in vegan kitchens. A savory base of lentils, carrots, peas, and rich gravy is blanketed by creamy mashed potatoes and baked until golden. It’s simple, sustaining, and perfect for cold, grey afternoons.
• Shortbread: All it takes is butter, sugar, and flour to create Scotland’s most beloved biscuit. The vegan version is no less decadent, using plant-based butter to achieve that same signature crumbly, melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips – Vegan Fish & Chips

Scotland also brings its own accent to these eats, both literal and culinary. There’s more spice in the sausage, more smoke in the broth, more wild, foraged flavors to be found. Discovering the nuances is half the fun.

Nature’s Larder: Local Vegan Ingredients

For the forager, the locavore, and the seasonal purist, Scotland is a wonderland.

Sheep Heid Inn – Tenderstem Broccoli, Green Beans, Samphire

• Oats are woven into every meal, from breakfast porridge to oatcakes. Steel-cut and whole rolled oats are common, though specifically Scottish oats are unique from other varieties, being slightly higher in fat, and are processed by being ground instead of cut or rolled. This creates a creamier, richer porridge that also cooks more quickly.
• Potatoes need no introduction, nor explanation as to how crucial they were in times of hardship. A potato could be found in pretty much every meal, and if not, a palate of other hardy root vegetables like turnips, carrots, and rutabaga.
• Wild berries, especially blackcurrants, raspberries, mulberries, and blaeberries, burst with tart-sweet flavor in crumbles or syrups.
• Seaweed adds an unmistakable briny punch to stocks, crisps, and plant-based fish alternatives. In 18th and 19th century, kelp production was one of the biggest industries within Scotland. Burning it created kelp ash, which was exported to create soap and glass. While it was less appreciated as a food ingredient then, its full capacity is better understood these days, especially in the kitchen. Samphire, otherwise known as sea asparagus, is a delicacy in high-end restaurants.
• Whiskey isn’t just for drinking, although they do spell it “whisky” over there. This spirit seems to flow freely from every pub in the land, lending its earthy, warm flavor to many savory sauces, marinades, and sweets.

Planted and harvested with intention, these traditional foods that respect the land, abiding by seasonality, and remain staunchly self-sufficient.

The New Scotland: Vegan-Friendly and Proud

Ten years ago, traveling to Scotland as a vegan might have been a bit bleak. Today, however, It’s a different story. Though I always come prepared with more snacks than clothing stowed away in my luggage, I didn’t need to dip into any of my emergency rations while out on the town.

Glasgow, in particular, has emerged as one of the most vegan-friendly cities in the UK. PETA even crowned it the most vegan city in the country, and with good reason. Spots like The 78, Stereo, and Suissi Vegan Asian Kitchen offer everything from loaded vegan burgers to silky ramen to Sunday roasts so rich, you’d swear they came straight from your grandmother’s kitchen, if only she had been a professionally trained chef.

In Edinburgh, the scene is just as vibrant, with creative takes on modern cuisine at Holy Cow, inventive Mexican-fusion street food at Antojitos, and refined plant-based fare at NovaPizza, one of the UK’s first 100% vegan Italian restaurants.

Even in smaller towns, vegan options are becoming the norm rather than the exception. Most eateries offer at least one vegan option, often more, and chains like Tesco and Pret a Manger make it easy to grab something plant-based while on the go.

Whether you’re in a highland inn or a city café, a little kindness goes a long way. Ask, and more often than not, you’ll be met with understanding, accommodation, and a sincere effort to feed you well.

Setting a Table for the Future

Scottish cuisine is a story of survival, practicality, and pride of place. It’s also a story of reinvention, of how a nation built on steadfast traditions can still open its heart to change without losing itself.

To be vegan in Scotland is to connect with that spirit: rooted, weathered, and always evolving. It’s standing on the edge of a cliff with the wind in your face and a warm oat scone in your hand, knowing that old ways can lead to new beginnings.

It’s worth a wee trek out to see for yourself, lassie.