The X Factor

I know, I’m a cheap date, but one of my favorite things at Eldorado Cafe is completely free. The first basket brimming with tortilla chips arrives sometimes before you even secure a seat, no questions asked, aside from which type of salsa you want. From mild to wild, there’s not a single wrong answer, and it would serve you well to double down with an extra order or two. However, I can confidently say that Salsa X, which falls in the middle of the road in terms of heat, is absolutely at the top of the hierarchy.

What is Salsa X?

Salsa X could easily be overlooked. Rusty orange, emulsified to a creamy consistency, it’s smooth aside from some flecks of charred chilies and spice. Unadorned and unpretentious, the flavors speak for themselves. Deeply roasted tomatoes, ripe with umami, meet with a gradual heat that builds to a comfortable smolder. Balanced by acidity to cut through the richness of the roasted elements, there’s a subtle, natural sweetness that smooths out the edges, preventing any bitterness from creeping in. For something so simple, it’s remarkably layered in complex flavor.

Taking second place twice in the Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival for the restaurant red sauce category, I know I’m not alone in my obsession. Still, no one seems to have quite cracked the code for a perfect replica, nor even figured out why it’s called “Salsa X.” I can’t help with the latter, but I’d like to take a shot at the former.

Making Salsa X at Home

To reverse engineer this Tex-Mex masterpiece, we need to start at the source. A bit of internet sleuthing reveals the base ingredients: tomato, onion, garlic, chile de arbol, chile morita, water, oil, salt. From there, it strikes me as having a similar construction as doña sauce, replacing the fresh jalapeño with toasted chilies, and roasting up tomatoes and onions for a bit more body. Could it really be that simple?

I would never be so bold as to say that it’s perfect replica. I would, however, say that it’s pretty damn close. Smooth, subtly smoky, and savory, with heat that slowly blooms, but never overwhelms.

Every ingredient, few as they are, carries incredible weight in the final blend. Technique is just as important too; this is no dump-and-stir recipe. Take time to properly roast the vegetables and toast the chilies, and your patience will be rewarded. Restaurants benefit from scale, equipment, and repetition that’s hard to match, but home cooks have the upper hand when it comes to attention to detail. You have the power to adjust to taste, either in the heat or consistency, until it’s just right. Maybe, you’ll end up with something entirely different, in a good way. Maybe you’re just a step away from discovering Salsa Y or Z.

Until Eldorado Cafe takes mercy on us salsa-lovers and bottles the stuff for sale nationwide, I’m reasonably content with my copycat, interspersed with visits for the real deal, of course.

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Crunch Time: The Supreme Crunchwraps of Austin, TX

For a food icon that set off a craze, inspired innumerable imitators, and changed the very definition of “Mexican” food, the original Crunchwrap Supreme from Taco Bell is a bit of a let down. In how many other instances is the original perpetually surpassed by copycats?

Don’t get me wrong, it will always have a place in the fast food pantheon, especially for having a naturally vegan alternative baked right into the menu. On a long road trip into No Where, America, or when all reasonable establishments have turned in for the night, it’s the absolute height of culinary accomplishments. While paying homage to its legacy, I want to say how much better its become after chefs took notice, and took things into their own hands.

Humble Beginnings

The Crunchwrap Supreme saw a short but meteoric rise to fame right out of the gate. Unveiled as a limited release in 2005, it soon became a permanent staple the following year. A testament to the ingenuity of the Taco Bell creatives, it’s nothing more than the same ingredients (tortillas, lettuce, tomatoes, etc.) repackaged in a novel way to make the eating experience feel brand new.

The vegetarian Black Bean Crunchwrap Supreme was soon to follow, swapping the questionable “ground beef” for beans, which is instantly veganized by the request to make it “fresco style,” AKA, replacing cheese, queso, and sour cream with pico de gallo.

Universal Appeal

Folded into a flat hexagon rather than being rolled like a burrito, the Crunchwrap is all about textural contrast. Grilled layers of tortilla encase a hard tostada shell, creating the signature crunch in the center, flanked by a smattering of legumes and reasonably fresh vegetables. Designed to be doused in hot sauces to taste, it’s anything you want it to be. Unchallenging, comforting in its familiarity, yet different enough to prevent palate fatigue, that winning combination catapulted it to legendary status in no time.

While a potentially game-changing fully plant-based edition was announced by Taco Bell this summer, featuring actual meatless grounds for protein and dairy-free nacho sauce, it was short lived, both in access and overall lifespan. Only a few lucky cities were blessed with this limited entree, unlikely to return or see a wider release. 

Modern Innovations

There will always be a place in my heart for the classic, especially on a budget. However, the next generation of artisan Crunchwraps are what have cemented the humble assembly as a cult classic. While the list of vegan hits is short and savory here in Austin, Texas, across the city, you’ll find indie takes that push the format into bold, brilliant new territory.

Best Vegan Crunchwraps in Austin, Texas


The Vegan Nom

Having made their name as the premier 100% vegan taco truck, I should have known that The Vegan Nom would knock this Tex-Mex legend out of the park, and out of several other parks without stopping. Due to the outdoor nature of the establishment and the absolutely punishing summer heat, their Crunchwrap Supreme was the last one I grabbed on my quest, and was unequivocally my favorite. Resoundingly crunchy, inside and out thanks to an immaculate sear, it’s densely packed with well-seasoned beefless grounds, both shredded vegan cheese and queso, avocado, the standard fleet of fresh veggies, and sour cream. Don’t forget to drench it in jalapeño aioli, which is daintily served on the side but quickly ended up smeared all over my hands, face, pants, shirt, and car. Yes, I did attempt to drink it straight, too.

Revolution Vegan Kitchen

Staking their claim as the #1 rival to Taco Bell, Revolution Vegan Kitchen has strategically titled their entry to the field as a Munch Wrap to avoid potential litigation. If the execs of Yum! Brands got their hands on one of these, they’d be so blown away by the rival that they might just forget to send the cease-and-desist. Everything on this beautiful behemoth is made from scratch, right down to the unbelievably gooey cheese and meaty TVP grounds. That attention to detail and refusal of shortcuts coalesces into a completely grease-less, fresh, and flavorful bundle that still hits all the right notes of nostalgic indulgence.

Mission Burger Co.

It feels like a minor crime to bypass the burgers at Mission Burger Co., but laws don’t apply when we’re talking about The Crunchwrap. This thing is the stuff of legends, absolutely loaded with steaming hot Impossible carne asada. This one is easily the meatiest build on this list, making it exceptionally hearty, satisfying, and downright juicy. Queso, guacamole, and sour cream make it a downright decadent bundle of joy. Expertly griddled on the outside, it’s a marvel of modern engineering that the lettuce stays fresh and crisp inside. Every individual layer could stand alone, full-bodied and well-seasoned, and work just as well together in concert.

Taco Pegaso

Crafted by chef Leslie Durso for a newly introduced vegan menu at Taco Pegaso, the Plant-Based Crunch Wrap was absolutely the standout dish of the whole bill of fare. For one, it’s actually crunchy, corn tostada standing tall in the center despite the weight of multiple sauces bearing down. Abbot’s chorizo plays a starring role for the protein, bringing in a meaty heft and piquant seasoning. You’ve got all the staples to back it up with beans, rice, queso, sour cream, and crisp veggies to lighten the load. Remarkably well-contained, this is one of the cleanest, most structurally sound Crunchwraps I’ve plowed through. As someone liable to end up with half a burrito in their lap on a good day, that’s saying something.

Eldorado Cafe

When you want to spice things up, the Vegan Crunchwrap Supreme from Eldorado Cafe is the thing for you. This one has a real bite from pickled jalapenos, spicy salsa, and homemade chorizo. Their refried black beans are honestly my favorite part; I could eat a big bowl of them, ungarnished, like soup. Local brand Credo queso steps up to provide that gooey, cheesy factor that makes it feel like an indulgence. Granted, it also skews the assembly to err on the wetter side, making it eat more like a sloppy, misshapen burrito than anything else. The crunch is not in the room with us, no matter how good the flavors are.

Wrapping Things Up

What began as a bit of food science and psychology has become a cultural touchstone. The Crunchwrap endures because it adapts, making itself at home amidst the high brow, the low brow, and everything in between. It’s just as likely to show up on a curated vegan menu as it is in a crumpled drive-thru bag. In a city like Austin, where food is both statement and sustenance, the Crunchwrap looms large in our imaginations and on our plates alike, though it lasts longer in the former than on the latter.

Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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