Cold as Ice

Serving food that’s still frozen is a capital offense. Serving food with whole ice cubes in it, however, is an asset rather than an error. After literally drinking through gallons of chilled soups over the years, pouring them into insulated mugs to sip on like savory smoothies, it’s staggering that the thought didn’t occur to me sooner. Gracefully maintaining their composure while other bowls start sweating, there’s nothing more refreshing when sweltering heat bears down midday. Gazpacho is an obvious, well-qualified candidate, but I was inspired to look further afield to another cool contender.

Drink Your Vegetables

Okroshka is sometimes described as a liquid salad, and with the tart tang of buttermilk or kefir that’s evocative of a creamy vinaigrette, it’s an apt comparison. Grassy and milky, light and soothing, it tastes like the sensation of stepping out of the sun and into shade. Finely chopped cucumbers, radishes, and potatoes are essential, swimming beneath a marsh of fresh dill and green onions. Traditionalist may include ham, while vegetarian versions opt for hard boiled eggs, which brings me to the other white meat for my version: tofu.

Melt Down

Worried about ice cubes watering down your soup? Don’t be silly. This particular blend is meant to be brothy, not the sort of thick stew that would suffer from the intrusion. If you’re the type that likes to crunch on ice, you get the bonus of added texture, and if you prefer to spare your teeth, just spoon around the cubes as you go. It doesn’t have to be bland old frozen water, either. Make custom soup cubes using:

  • Vegetable or mushroom stock
  • Tomato juice
  • Unsweetened non-dairy milk
  • Diluted pickle brine

Cubed Crusade

I’m well aware that the most American thing to do is add copious amounts of ice to everything. What can I say; I can’t outrun my cultural conditioning, even when crafting a Russian staple. Look, if Jacques Pépin says it’s okay to put ice in red wine, then surely, we can start putting ice in soup. Okroshka, cool, calm, and composed, can withstand the perceived faux-pas. If we’re adding tofu in anyway, I think we’ve already passed the point of offending the purists.

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Eternal Summer

Inspiration isn’t a commodity that can be bought and sold, nor is it a punctual visitor dutifully keeping an appointment on the calendar. Untamed, fickle thing that it is, it may show up late, early, or not at all, and there’s no way of knowing which. I can never begrudge it, frustrating as the dance may be, because eventually, albeit sometimes painstakingly, it does always grace me with its presence. I’m not sure if that completely explains why I was dispatching a whole summer’s harvest of fresh produce in the dead of winter, but I can be equally unpredictable, too.

This recipe has been a long time coming. Suggesting that others defy seasonality as carelessly as I did would seem irresponsible. I was simply following my muse, you see, and in a dearth of color and warmth, all it wanted was to paint the kitchen in the vibrant, sun-soaked hues of July. Just picturing the juicy tomatoes hanging heavily on their vines began to thaw my imagination.

All it took was one extra eggplant, leftover from another project, to light the creative spark. Channeling my future self, I made a one-pan meal I knew would be just the ticket in a few months. Simple, fresh, bright, and balanced, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would make with peak summer produce. Aside from slicing and dicing, the oven does all the work. 

The cherry tomatoes collapse and burst into a rich, sweet jam that acts as a built-in sauce. The eggplant softens into a downright velvety texture, soaking up the olive oil and garlic like a sponge, while the fennel mellows into something deeply caramelized and sweet. Once pulled from the heat, the warm, jammy vegetables are tossed directly on the sheet pan with plump butter beans for substance, briny olives for a sharp pop of contrast, and a generous handful of fresh basil to wake everything up.

There’s no shame in eating it right off the sheet, provided you have a trusted trivet underneath. I found it even more gratifying, however, to spoon it over a big bowlful of soft polenta, letting the corn grits soak in all the juices. Of course, that may owe a lot to the urge for comfort and warming dishes when I made it, which is why I’m very happy to report that it’s just as compelling when tossed with pasta, hot or cold. In fact, you can chill the whole thing and take it outside for a picnic; something I could only dream of in that moment.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never expect inspiration to simply land on your doorstep. If it does, though, you should always answer the door, no matter the time or season.

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Right On Cue

Barbecue is big business here in the south. People worship at the altar of smoke and fire, where pitmasters stand like priests before steel rigs blackened by decades of grease and devotion. It’s less of a meal than a declaration of faith, because in truth, it does take that level of conviction to tend a single slab of protein for 6 – 8 hours and trust that it’s time well-spent.

Devotees are ready to throw down at the barest whisper of dissent, even when discussing the differences between Texas, Memphis, Alabama, Kansas City, and the Carolinas. Tossing a meatless option into the ring would tantamount to treason, ostensibly punishable by law, but I’m prepared to take that risk. That’s how confident I am in Fungitarian BBQ.

Mushrooms Over Meat

Challenging the status quo with mushrooms might sound dubious in a culture built on beef, but the whole art of barbecue has always been about transformation. Founded on taking humble, tough cuts and turning them into something transcendent through smoke, spice, patience, and fire, that ethos can be applied to anything. Fungitarian delivers on that same philosophy, and flavor, all in one ready-to-eat package.

Where There’s Smoke

Give mushrooms the same amount of heat and time to unlock their inherently umami, meaty, almost primal qualities. Charred around the edges, toothsome and supple in the middle, there are no woody stems to contend with, and no gristle, bones, or fat, for that matter, either. Absorbing the heady smoke like a marinade, they carry that flavor all the way through, rather than merely wearing it on the surface. That’s what makes it even more compelling as the crowning jewel on a loaded baked potato.

Potayto, Potahto

A proper barbecue potato is a celebration of excess. Blistered skins splitting open to reveal a steaming, fluffy interior; even without adornment, it’s a mouthwatering sight to behold. When piled recklessly high with cheese, protein, and enough toppings to collapse under its own weight, make no mistake, this isn’t some token side dish. Best of all, when done right, no BBQ sauce need apply. Such sticky, sweet syrup would only distract from the rich flavors of smoke and spice within.

Low and Slow or Fast and Fresh

Baked potatoes are nothing if not adaptable. You have five choices for how to approach the cooking process, all of which creating perfectly delicious results, though the longest wait does yield the greatest rewards.

  • Smoker: 2 hours at 225 degrees
  • Oven or grill: 45 – 60 minutes at 400 degrees
  • Air fryer: 30 – 40 minutes at 370 degrees
  • Microwave: 8 – 10 minutes at full power (cooked one at a time)

If you’ve already got the smoker or grill going, it’s a no-brainer. That extra infusion of smoke and char can’t be replicated and is tough to find elsewhere, even in most restaurants. If you’ve got a squad of hangry guests that need to eat ASAP, there’s no shame in getting an assist from the microwave.

Top That

Likewise, the number of potential toppings to adorn your barbecue masterpiece is limited only by your imagination. Want to add more veggies? Throw in some chopped broccoli or sautéed spinach. Like it hot? Go all in on chilies. Just a few of my favorite suggestions include:

Barbecue For All

Purists may clutch their tongs in horror, but it’s their loss if they can’t invite more diverse options to the backyard barbecue. One bite would end the argument faster than any amount of debate. Smoke, spice, char, and comfort don’t belong exclusively to brisket. That same experience is accessible to anyone willing to put in the time and respect the process. The loaded baked potato simply happens to be the perfect stage for proving it.

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Fajitas Navidad

Why wait for December when you can unwrap joy twice a year? Celebrate Christmas in July for a second helping of holly, jolly merriment, minus the frostbite. I’m not talking about a big blow-out celebration like the genuine article, but a more impromptu excuse to get into the spirit.

Every time I see all the vibrant greens and reds spilling out of baskets at the farmers market, it’s all I can think about. How different the traditional menu would be, if only our forebears had access to ripe tomatoes, basil, peppers, and pole beans! That’s why even mundane fajitas start to look like a holiday party starter.

The Beginnings of Warmer Holiday Wishes

Christmas in July isn’t just a marketing ploy dreamed up by money—hungry corporations, although of course, they patently encourage the extra gifting opportunity. The first recorded celebration dates back to 1933, when a North Carolina summer camp for girls put on an off-season yuletide celebration complete with fake snow made of cotton, a decked-out tree, and a visit from Santa himself. It wasn’t long before the idea spread, especially in the Southern Hemisphere where July is the colder season.

Eventually, brands caught wind of the novelty and turned it into a commercial mini-holiday, offering midyear sales and peppermint-everything. It endures today because a party is a party, and summer offers a dearth of actual calendar events, so we might as well fill in the gaps somehow.

It’s Starting to Look a Lot Like Christmas, Everywhere You Turn

Christmas is never all that cold in Texas, having spent more than one December evening in a T-shirt, sipping iced coffee next to a half-lit tree. Granted, 100 degrees is a world apart from 60 degrees, but those temperatures offer new opportunities for more refreshing treats.

It doesn’t take much to whip up a festive dish with all the fresh fruits and vegetables now at peak ripeness. Just think red and green, and instantly, you’ve got a menu fully decked out for a yuletide celebration. For example:

  • Christmas Tree Crudité Platter – Arrange layers of green veggies, like broccoli florets, cucumber slices, snap peas, and celery, in the shape of a Christmas tree on a large platter. Add pops of color with cherry tomatoes or radish slices as “ornaments,” and top it off with a star cut from a yellow pepper or carrot. Use pretzel rods for the tree trunk, and serve with a few chilled dips on the side, like red pepper hummus or herby green goddess.
  • Holiday Pesto Pasta Salad – Toss cooked and cooled pasta with pesto, cherry tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and peas. Optionally, top it with finely grated vegan Parmesan for a snowy look.
  • Cranberry BBQ Tofu Skewers – Skewer cubes of tofu, zucchini, bell peppers, and red onion, then brush with cranberry sauce mixed into your favorite bottled BBQ sauce. Grill or roast until caramelized.
  • Festive Fruit Salad – Mix cut strawberries, green grapes, kiwis, raspberries, and/or green apples with a light sprinkle of lemon zest and lemon juice. If your blend is a bit tart, add a tiny splash of maple syrup.

Fajitas Navidad

Christmas fajitas could just as easily be everyday weeknight fajitas. The color scheme may even be lost on those simply captivated by the meaty strips of seared portobello mushrooms, distracted by their impossibly umami aroma. Wrapped up in a warm tortilla, each morsel is truly like an edible gift. They’re festive in spirit and flavor, even if no one at the table mentions Christmas at all, which is the real beauty of this half-holiday. You get to celebrate on your own terms.

What makes Christmas fajitas so irresistible isn’t just their visual appeal, of course. It’s the way they manage to feel both indulgent and fresh. Thick portobello caps become tender and juicy after a literal flash in the pan, soaking up every bit of seasoning like a thirsty sponge. Red bell peppers and green poblano peppers bring a sweet and spicy crunch, softened just enough to coax out their natural sugars, while slivers of red onion add bite and depth. A squeeze of lime over the whole pan wakes everything up, brightening the smoky richness with a citrusy kiss.

Assembling everything at the table makes it feel like a real family activity. I love a more interactive, hands-on meal that is meant to be shared. Isn’t that the idea behind the traditional Christmas dinner, too?

Happy Holidays, All The Days

So go ahead, string up lights by the pool. Crank up the carols, even if they clash with the sound of cicadas. Serve up those sizzling Christmas fajitas with all the trimmings, and toast to the idea that joy doesn’t have to wait for December. Whether you’re gathering friends for a backyard fiesta or just treating Tuesday night like a holiday, Christmas in July is your permission slip to celebrate something, anything, right now.

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Grilling and Chilling

Grilling is the epitome of summer cooking: fiery, free-spirited, and fun for all. There’s something irresistible about vegetables, fruits, and proteins when kissed by the heat of an open flame. The sizzle, the char, and that smoky aroma forge new textures and flavors, and you can do it all while basking in the warmth of the season.

Whether you’re throwing a backyard cookout with the whole community or simply craving a fresh, seasonal meal in the great outdoors, these recipes will prove that the grill is the perfect partner for all kinds of plant-based creations.

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Unseasonable, Not Unreasonable

Eggplant and tomatoes, in the dead of winter? Oh no, that’s not very seasonal of me. Such a terrible faux pas, such an obvious insult to The Natural Order Of Things. I should have just saved this for a few months and pretended it was devised in that moment, in the warm sunshine of late June, when flowers are blooming and an abundance of produce explodes back into farmers markets. I did consider it, strongly, but I also considered the fact that a little bite of summer in the middle of a dark, cold, forbidding day might be what we all need.

Let’s not kid ourselves: these ingredients are still in grocery stores across the world. It doesn’t matter where you live, or where the vegetables came from, because they’ll find their way to your local market whether you like it or not. We can thank globalization and climate change equally for that. In no way would I suggest that they’ll be as flavorful and ambrosial as peak season produce, locally grown in organic soil, mind you. I’m only suggesting that we have the option to indulge, in this small way, as a preview of what’s to come. When you need a little reminder that there’s a light at the end of the tunnel, you already have the tools to see it. These vegetables will exist anyway; it would be a shame to let them languish, unloved.

Graffiti eggplant is a particularly arresting specimen, striped as if colored with gentle brushstrokes of glossy purple paint. No different from Italian globe eggplant otherwise, in terms of shape, size, or flavor, but an eye catching reminder that the fruit itself exists (and yes, it is a fruit, botanically speaking.) Best when on the smaller size to reduce the amount of watery seeds, it cooks quickly and easily in the air fryer. Sure, it would no doubt be brilliant on the grill, but let’s not forget about the actual temperature outside right now. Tender to the point of melting onto your fork, that silky sensation is heightened against the cool, toothsome pop of raw cherry tomatoes. Basil, the harbinger of midsummer revelry, feels mandatory in this situation, bright and citrus-y, bold and fresh.

That’s all it is: Eggplant and tomatoes. I would apologize for my crime against sustainability, but honestly? I have no remorse. In fact, I’d do it all again, and encourage you to as well. Like celebrating Christmas in July, sometimes we need to do what brings us the most joy, not what makes the most logical sense.

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