Tag: shiitake

Fisherman’s Lure

If there’s any dish that represents the history and heritage of San Francisco, it’s cioppino. Even more so than the storied loaves of sourdough bread produced in droves around the bay, this humble yet simultaneously opulent dish has sustained generations. Tomatoes and seafood meet in an herbaceous broth spiked with white wine, embodying elegance without ostentation. It’s the working person’s humble indulgence, paying homage to the bounty of the region. The lack of plant-based seafood options put me off of attempting to replicate it for far too long. It turns out, nature already has a fantastic alternative to offer: mushrooms.

Mushrooms: The New Seafood

Yes, of course mushrooms! Varieties like king oyster mushrooms, maitake (AKA, hen of the woods), and shiitake, all featured prominently in this rich brew, make excellent seafood alternatives for a few key reasons:

  • Texture: Mushrooms have a naturally meaty and chewy texture, especially the small, thick caps of Donko Sugimoto Shiitake, evocative of scallops or shrimp when cooked.
  • Umami: Mushrooms, particularly dried shiitake, are rich in umami, which is also a crucial tasting note found in seafood. This depth of flavor comes from compounds like glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate, which are the uniquely potent trio that Sugimoto Shiitake brings to the table.
  • Absorbency: Mushrooms are known for their ability to absorb and enhance the flavors of whatever they are cooked with. When seasoned with seafood-like ingredients (such as seaweed, lemon, garlic, and herbs), mushrooms can take on flavors that mimic those of the sea.
  • Nutrition: While mushrooms don’t provide the same exact nutritional profile as seafood, they do offer important nutrients, including protein, fiber, and various vitamins and minerals.

Chip In For Cioppino

Legend has it that fishermen of yore would all “chip in” a bit of the day’s catch to make a communal vat of stew to share, and if you can imagine that with an Italian accent, the origin of the name would be clear. Others, however, see a more concrete link through the Italian word “ciuppin,” which means “to make soup from fish” or “little soup” in Ligurian dialect. In either case, it illustrates the beauty of this dish, which is infinitely adaptable. Built upon whatever was available at the end of a hard day’s work, there are no hard and fast rules. Had those founding San Franciscans set off into the forests instead of the sea, I’m confident there would be more foraged finds, like earthy wild mushrooms, added to the pot.

Cook Quickly, Savor Slowly

Romantic as the ideas of soup simmering on the stove may be, rarely do I have the time to babysit an all-day affair like that. Instead, I’m coming in hot with a quick-fix approach, taking advantage of my trusty pressure cooker. After sautéing the aromatics, it only takes 10 minutes under pressure to yield buttery-soft mushrooms and meltingly tender vegetables. Should you still want to take this to the stove, it’s easily feasible in an hour or two, tops.

Souper Stew

Cioppino is a complete thought, and thus, a complete one-pot meal. That said, it does beg for a wedge of crusty bread (yes, sourdough) to best sop up all the rich broth. If you’re having friends over and want to stretch it further, a peppery arugula salad would be an excellent counterpoint and of course, it pairs beautifully with a dry white wine. Plan to buy an extra bottle, just in case.

Tides of Change

Just as the tides of San Francisco Bay ebb and flow, so too does the legacy of cioppino evolve, shaped by time, necessity, and now, compassion. While the classic version pays tribute to seafaring traditions, this mushroom-forward interpretation speaks to a modern mindset, valuing sustainability without sacrificing depth of flavor. It’s remarkable how these humble fungi can bridge such a wide culinary gap, offering a taste of the ocean while staying firmly rooted to the forest floor. Tradition isn’t something we preserve—it’s something we reinvent.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)9 Comments

Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Moussaka Brouhaha

Stop calling moussaka “Greek lasagna.” There’s no pasta, no marinara sauce, and cheese is minimal, at best. Moussaka, the national dish of Greece, is so much more than another miscellaneous casserole. Complex and distinctive, no one would ever confuse the two if they ever had a taste.

Tender eggplant supports the hearty and robustly seasoned protein in a red wine-infused sauce, featuring onions, garlic, and aromatic spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. My small twist on tradition here is to skip the meat, of course, and opt for earthy, naturally beefy Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms instead. The pièce de résistance is a velvety béchamel sauce, covering the whole dish like a plush, velvety blanket.

What Is Moussaka?

The history of moussaka is as rich and diverse as the layers of flavors in the dish itself. The roots of moussaka can be traced back to the Middle East, where it’s believed to have originated from the Arabic word “musaqqa’a,” meaning chilled or cooled, reflecting the dish’s early preparation methods.

As the culinary influence of the Middle East spread, moussaka found its way into the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, each culture incorporating its own unique twist on the dish. The earliest versions were likely simple combinations of layered vegetables and spices, reflecting the agricultural abundance of the region.

When moussaka arrived in Greece, it underwent a transformation that would become the blueprint for the beloved dish we know today. The Greek moussaka typically features layers of eggplant, minced meat (often lamb or beef), tomatoes, onions, and a creamy béchamel sauce. The dish is then baked and served hot, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Natural Variations

The evolution of moussaka doesn’t stop there. As it traveled through various regions, each culture added its own distinctive touch.

  • In Turkey, moussaka might include zucchini alongside or instead of eggplant.
  • In the Middle East, chickpeas and additional vegetables might help stretch the meat filling.
  • In the Balkans, sliced potatoes run parallel with the eggplant for more defined, sizable layers.

What Makes A Great Moussaka?

The best moussaka strikes a balance across all strata, creating a dish that is both comforting and invigorating. The marker of success is when each bite captures the essence of Mediterranean cuisine, inviting you to savor each layer and appreciate the complexity of this iconic dish.

  • Tender, Hearty Protein: Meat is moot when you start with a base of crumbled tofu for substance and minced Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms for style. Freezing, thawing, and draining the tofu first is the secret to creating a texture eerily similar to ground meat. Umami shiitake mushrooms enhance that illusion with ample free glutamate that creates an unmistakable umami sensation. Even when finely minced, their thick, chewy, tender caps ensure that every mouthful has a completely satisfying bite.

  • Luscious Béchamel: One of the “mother sauces” of French cuisine made from a simple roux and seasoned with nutmeg, the some versions take it a step further by adding eggs for an even more decadent texture. Bypass all of that by simply using tahini and a pinch of sulfurous black salt instead.
  • Layered Perfection: Sliced eggplants are typically salted to draw out excess moisture and bitterness, before being added to the mix, but that shouldn’t be the end of the story. Taking an extra few minutes to then roast the vegetables does wonders to concentrate the flavor and unlock subtle sweetness through caramelization. That attention to detail also ensures cleaner layers that won’t water down the dish.

Tips For Success and Serving Suggestions

Making a layered casserole like this can be something of a production. Though it does take time and effort, it’s completely feasible when you break it down! Don’t forget how to fill your plate with flare when you’re ready to eat.

  • Patience is a virtue. If you can wait for the moussaka to cool, you’ll be able to get much cleaner slices with consistent layers. As you might have guessed from these photos, this is not a quality I possess. Even if you end up scooping it out piping hot with a spoon, I promise it will be delicious in any form.

  • Make ahead. Moussaka tastes even better the next day, after all the herbs and spices have had time to mingle, so feel free to bake it well in advance and reheat it before serving. It can be stored in the fridge for 6 to 7 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. Simply allow it to thaw to room temperature and reheat at 350 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes before enjoying.
  • Perfect pairings. While moussaka is a whole feast in and of itself, you can stretch the meal to feed more with a few simple side dishes. Top recommendations include sautéed greens, salad, bread, and tzatziki.

The popularity of moussaka has transcended cultural boundaries, becoming a beloved dish around the world. Its versatility allows for endless variations that blend elements from different culinary traditions. It’s about time we include Japanese inspiration into that mix, thoughout the unassailable powerhouse of tofu and shiitake mushrooms.

Today, moussaka stands as a testament to the interconnectedness of food cultures, showcasing how a dish can travel across borders, absorbing influences, and evolving into something uniquely delicious. With this latest evolution and many more sure to come, moussaka continues to be a symbol of shared culinary heritage and the joy of discovering new flavors through the ages.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Give The Gift of Tamales For Christmas

Christmastime in Texas means tamales.

From sunrise to sunset, the air is thick with the smell of masa wafting from open windows. Slowly but surely, the bundles stack up, two dozen, three dozen at a time, before plunging into the steamer or freezer to await their fates. Wrapped with care in corn husks and banana leaves, rather than paper and tinsel, each parcel truly is a gift to receive.

Tamale Traditions

Tamales aren’t just for Christmas, of course. Ancient Mesoamerican civilizations, including the Aztecs and Mayans, enjoyed tamales as a portable and convenient food source for sustenance during long journeys and battles. Anything and everything was fair game in terms of fillings, from meats and vegetables to sweets like fruits and honey.

When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the Americas in the 16th century, their mission to spread Christianity ensnared the humble tamale as a celebratory food. Already a staple of Mexican and Latin American cuisine, tamales have a unique way of symbolizing the spirit of togetherness and unity that defines the holiday season.

Crafting tamales is a labor of love, a communal affair that brings family and friends together. As generations gather in the kitchen, sharing stories and laughter while assembling each bundle one by one, much of their importance is about the actual assembly, rather than the end product alone.

Come For The Craft, Stay For The Feast

Naturally, we wouldn’t be here talking about tamales if it was just a fun arts and craft project. Eye-catching green masa makes a more festive impression than typical yellow cornmeal, especially when offset by equally vibrant salsa roja on top and a red meatless stuffing hidden inside. While I love a simple veggie tamale, often made with zucchini, corn, and all sorts of peppers, I wanted to bring a more substantial offering, that eats like a whole meal, to this dinner party.

Who needs meat when you have tender red beans adding ample amounts of plant-protein, infused with the crimson color of red beets, and amplified by the naturally meaty richness of Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms?

Roughly chopped caps and stems create the compelling illusion of ground beef, deeply umami and toothsome in a way that defies written descriptions. Somehow juicy, chewy, tender, and springy all at once, the thicker Koshin variety are unparalleled in their quality. If you splurge on just one thing this holiday season, make it the mushrooms.

Corn Husks vs. Banana Leaves

Corn husk-wrapped tamales are more commonly seen across Texas, as an easily accessible, affordable ingredient, also owing to their Mexican heritage. Banana leaves, on the other hand, are favored in some Central and South American regions. I’m not going to say that one is better than the other, but after finally finding frozen banana leaves at H-Mart, I can’t go back.

Ready to use right out of the package rather than waiting for them to soak, they’re quicker and easier to work with, large and accommodating for any amount of filling, flexible and less likely to tear, and most importantly, incredibly fragrant. Subtly floral, slightly fruity, and even reminiscent of freshly cut grass, it reminds me of pandan, if it was spoken at a whisper.

That said, the flavor imparted by banana leaves is quite gentle and won’t overwhelm the flavors of the dish. Instead, it complements and enhances the food, adding a touch of tropical freshness and a subtle layer of complexity. Banana leaves also retain more moisture, yielding the most succulent tamales I’ve ever had.

Cooking Options

Once you’ve decided on your wrapper, you have more choices left to make: What’s the best way to cook tamales?

  • Steaming is recommended, as a time-honored method that never fails. There’s more than one way to steam, however, which brings me to my favorite approach…
  • Pressure cooking gives you the same results as stove-top steaming, in a fraction of the time. Plus, it helps keep the kitchen cooler; an important consideration for balmy Texas weather.
  • Grilling is a great alternative, taking the party outside, and imparting a wonderful smoky flavor to the food.
  • Baking in the oven can work, in a pinch, but does create a firmer, drier texture. For best results, place the tamales in a baking dish alongside a ramekin of water, and wrap the whole thing tightly with foil to keep the steam inside.

Make-Ahead and Storage Tips

To ease the holiday hustle and bustle, you can make these tamales ahead of time. After they have cooled completely, store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days. Alternatively, freeze them for longer storage, making sure to wrap each tamale individually before placing them in a freezer-safe bag or container. Reheat tamales by steaming or microwaving until heated through.

Making tamales to celebrate events big and small is a way of preserving Latin American and Mexican heritage, which has now become a Texan and overall American tradition, too. Though dressed up in the red and green trappings of Christmas, these tamales are for everyone. Full of warmth, love, and the gift of good taste, it doesn’t even matter that they happen to be vegan and gluten-free, too.

When you unwrap a tamale during your own holiday celebrations, whatever they may be, the experience is universal. Pass the tamales; share the joy.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

New Old Fashioned

Drink Your Mushrooms?

Save your side eye for more questionable content; the idea of infusing mushrooms into drinks is nothing new. Add them to coffee or tea and call them nootropics, but at the end of the day, you’re staring down the same thing at the bottom of your glass. Though medicinal mushrooms are billed as a silent partner, contributing to your wellness cache without being outspoken about it, there’s no reason why bolder fungi can’t belly up to the bar.

Shiitake, The Original Flavor Enhancer

As we’ve discussed before, Sugimoto Shiitake are on a whole different level from the average spore. Rich with free glutamates that create an unmistakable savory flavor, it’s easy to leverage their inherent wealth of aroma and unique pungency to enhance any dish. The concept certainly doesn’t end when happy hour strikes.

When used properly, shiitake in any form elevates the subtle nuances in all the components that coalesce into a carefully curated, intentional eating or drinking experience. Like salt, it should never taste overtly salty (or mushroomy, in this case), but allow the other players to shine as their best, truest selves.

Why A Shiitake Cocktail Just Works

There’s real scientific evidence supporting the use of shiitake in mixology. To better understand why this pairing works, let’s break down the primary tasting notes:

  • Earthy
  • Woodsy
  • Oaky
  • Nutty
  • Leathery
  • Smoky

Remind you of anything else? Yes, whiskey is a match made in heaven for this umami infusion! That’s why my Umami Old Fashioned is a foolproof twist on the classic cocktail that will never let you down.

How To Make An Umami Old Fashioned

The classic old fashioned is one of the easiest cocktails you could pour. Just four ingredients stand between you and that first bold, bracing sip: whiskey, sugar, bitters, and orange peel. To add some extra umami into the equation, we need to factor in two more ingredients: dried shiitake and time.

  1. Begin by crumbling 1 large koshin shiitake cap into 2 ounces of bitters. Add 2 ounces of water, since the mushrooms will absorb some of that as they rehydrate. Cover and let sit for 24 hours in a dark, cool place. Strain out the shiitake pieces (which are brilliant in risottos or stews) and store the umami bitters in a bottle with a dropper.
  2. To make the cocktail itself, combine simple syrup and a few drops of umami bitters in a glass with 1 – 2 ice cubes. Simple syrup dissolves more easily than granulated sugar, and can be made with a simple ratio of 1 part sugar to 2 parts water. Simmer and then let cool in advance, storing it in a glass bottle at room temperature until ready to use.
  3. Add the whiskey and stir for about 30 seconds to combine. Pour into a clean glass with fresh ice. Twist a piece of orange peel over the top to release the essential oils before placing it in the glass.
  4. Completely optional, but if desired, garnish with a luxardo cherry; literally the cherry on top.

Better Bitters

Since a little bit goes a long way when we’re talking about bitters, even this small amount should last a good while. Don’t reserve your supply only for cocktails; it’s a rich flavoring agent for a wide range of cooking applications too. Consider incorporating it into:

  • Vinaigrette and other dressings
  • Pickles and preserves
  • Marinades
  • Soups and stews

Once you start sipping, you’ll never want to stock the bar without this secret ingredient again. Cheers, to a new fashioned Old Fashioned that can keep up with the times.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Stick with Kati Rolls

Kati rolls are a special sort of food that exists beyond spoken language. It needs no translation, even if this is the first time you’ve heard such a word. One glance and all the mysteries are revealed. The kati roll is fluent in delicious, which is the most compelling form of communication on everyone’s lips.

What are kati rolls?

Soft flatbread, lightly crisped on the outside, wraps around an aromatic and highly spiced filling; the epitome of indispensable street food. Kati rolls are strikingly similar to fajitas in construction or open-ended burritos when finished. Originally, skewer-roasted kebabs were at the heart of it all, beginning life not unlike our modern day hot dog. Thus, the name comes from the Bengali word kathi, which means “stick,” in reference to the bamboo sticks used for cooking the protein. The bread is merely the vehicle, but simultaneously an essential part of the whole build.

The most “complicated” part of making kathi rolls to preparing the chapati (AKA roti.) I say this in quotes because it’s an incredibly simple flatbread made from minimal, common pantry staples that’s well within everyone’s grasp.

Even if you struggle with bread baking, this is a great way to ease into the art, since there’s no yeast involved and you truly can’t over-knead it. Gently charred by pan-frying on the stove top , you don’t need to preheat your oven, either. The biggest struggle can be carving out the time on a busy weeknight, to which I say: Don’t sweat the details.

Traditionally, the flatbread of choice for making kati rolls has been paratha. Infused with buttery, flaky layers throughout, that particular unleavened dough does take a bit more finesse. I’d rather save such intensive labor and overall decadence for a stand-alone snack, ideally with a side of chutney or curry sauce for dipping.

What are good alternatives to homemade chapati?

While all flatbread are not created equal, you can absolutely make mouthwatering kathi rolls using a wide range of ready-made solutions with great success. For best results, brush them with oil and lightly griddle them on both sides before rolling to make them more flexible. A few options include:

It’s what’s on the inside that counts

Beef, lamb, and goat kebabs no longer need apply for this starring role. In fact, the most popular fillings are now largely vegetarian. Typically focused on cubes of fresh paneer that are masala-marinated and tossed with sauteed peppers, it’s a simple, adaptable combination that never gets old. Step up that umami quotient with Sugimoto shiitake for an even better experience.

Koshin shiitake mushrooms are perfectly suited for this application, bearing wide, long caps that are ideal for slicing into meaty strips. Instantly boost the overall flavor profile while incorporating a more satisfying, toothsome bite with that one effortless addition.

Are kati rolls healthy?

Keeping it vegan, cheese is out and tofu is in. Swapping the two lowers the fat, increases the protein, and removes cholesterol entirely. Factor in those high-fiber veggies and you’ve got a real superfood snack on hand!

Kati rolls are the ultimate meal prep hack

Designed to be eaten on the go, kati rolls are ideal for make-ahead meals, packed lunches, and traveling snacks. After assembling the rolls, wrap them individually in foil and freeze for up to 6 months. Whenever you’re ready to eat, either simply let them thaw out and enjoy at room temperature, or stick them in a toaster over or air fryer for a few minutes until warm and crispy. Keep chutney or hot sauce separate to apply as desired.

You don’t even need a recipe to make a kati roll. It could be made completely from leftovers, restaurant takeout, or prepared foods from the grocery store. Kati rolls are whatever you want them to be, whether they’re made 100% from scratch or with zero cooking involved. The only way you can go wrong is if you don’t start rolling in the first place.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments