Eternal Summer

Inspiration isn’t a commodity that can be bought and sold, nor is it a punctual visitor dutifully keeping an appointment on the calendar. Untamed, fickle thing that it is, it may show up late, early, or not at all, and there’s no way of knowing which. I can never begrudge it, frustrating as the dance may be, because eventually, albeit sometimes painstakingly, it does always grace me with its presence. I’m not sure if that completely explains why I was dispatching a whole summer’s harvest of fresh produce in the dead of winter, but I can be equally unpredictable, too.

This recipe has been a long time coming. Suggesting that others defy seasonality as carelessly as I did would seem irresponsible. I was simply following my muse, you see, and in a dearth of color and warmth, all it wanted was to paint the kitchen in the vibrant, sun-soaked hues of July. Just picturing the juicy tomatoes hanging heavily on their vines began to thaw my imagination.

All it took was one extra eggplant, leftover from another project, to light the creative spark. Channeling my future self, I made a one-pan meal I knew would be just the ticket in a few months. Simple, fresh, bright, and balanced, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would make with peak summer produce. Aside from slicing and dicing, the oven does all the work. 

The cherry tomatoes collapse and burst into a rich, sweet jam that acts as a built-in sauce. The eggplant softens into a downright velvety texture, soaking up the olive oil and garlic like a sponge, while the fennel mellows into something deeply caramelized and sweet. Once pulled from the heat, the warm, jammy vegetables are tossed directly on the sheet pan with plump butter beans for substance, briny olives for a sharp pop of contrast, and a generous handful of fresh basil to wake everything up.

There’s no shame in eating it right off the sheet, provided you have a trusted trivet underneath. I found it even more gratifying, however, to spoon it over a big bowlful of soft polenta, letting the corn grits soak in all the juices. Of course, that may owe a lot to the urge for comfort and warming dishes when I made it, which is why I’m very happy to report that it’s just as compelling when tossed with pasta, hot or cold. In fact, you can chill the whole thing and take it outside for a picnic; something I could only dream of in that moment.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never expect inspiration to simply land on your doorstep. If it does, though, you should always answer the door, no matter the time or season.

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Home Is Where The Chocolate Is

What makes a house a home? In the case of a gingerbread house, it’s about sugar and spice, of course, but it’s the personal touches that make it special. Just like you would lovingly decorate your own living spaces, each culinary construction project is an opportunity to bring your unique aesthetic to life. I’ve always relished the idea of making a gingerbread house for the holidays but rarely went through with it. Daunted by the process, it seems too difficult or time-consuming at a glance.

This year, I committed to pushing through that mental barrier to make myself a genuine gingerbread home at last. Seeing as I finally got my first home in real life this year, it’s only fitting to make a suitable tribute. Naturally, incorporating a few unconventional ingredients, my entry is anything but standard.

Choco-Rooms

Rich Dutch-processed cocoa creates the characteristic dark panels on my edible abode as a stark departure from the mahogany brown of conventional cookies. This in itself is nothing new, however; you’ll find a recipe for “cocoa-nut gingerbread” cookies printed in the 1845 cookbook, Modern Cookery, In All Its Branches, and no doubt earlier versions if you keep digging. What these early bakers didn’t think to include is the ultimate all-purpose flavor enhancer, otherwise known as Sugimoto shiitake powder.

Mushrooms are sprouting out in all sorts of foods and drinks, from coffee to cakes, owing to their nutritional prowess and, in the case of shiitake’s abundant free glutamate, ability to amplify existing flavors to even greater resonance. No, it won’t make your sweets taste mushroomy, as proven by my shiitake vanilla ice cream. You won’t know it’s there, per say, but once you taste the difference, you will know if it’s missing.

Building Up The Gingerbread House Legacy

Long before pumpkins found their spice, gingerbread was the defacto flavor of the holiday season. As the spice trade flourished in the Middle Ages, ginger became more accessible, paving the way for the evolution of gingerbread into a dessert worthy of celebration. By the 15th century, gingerbread had made its way to Europe, where it began to take on new forms. In Germany, it was often molded into intricate shapes for festivals and fairs. This was also the era when the famed Nuremberg gingerbread, known as “Lebkuchen,” gained popularity, featuring a complex blend of spices and nuts.

However, it was the story of Hansel and Gretel that truly solidified gingerbread’s place in the holiday canon. The Brothers Grimm’s fairy tale, published in the early 19th century, painted a picture of an enchanted house made entirely of gingerbread and candy, capturing the imaginations of children and adults alike. Inspired by this tale, gingerbread houses began to emerge as a holiday tradition, continuing into the modern era, where families would gather to create their own edible cottages adorned with sweets.

Iced Out

Skip the conventional royal icing mortar in favor of pure melted chocolate to build a better home. Aside from the obvious flavor benefits, it’s much easier to work with, piping out smoothly or spreading on thick, and sets up very quickly in a reasonably cool kitchen. If you need to speed things along, just set your pieces in the fridge for a few minutes, and they’ll be good to go. I wanted to keep mine simple, sticking with only dark chocolate for all my embellishments, but you can go all-out with vegan white chocolate, colored sanding sugar, candies, fresh herbs, and any other edible decor your heart desires. It’s your house after all; raise the roof!

Build It Better

Based on my fool-proof Gingerbread Cut-Out Cookies recipe, this formula has already stood the test of time. After 13 years and untold adaptations, it simply never fails. The dough is sturdy, easy to roll out thinly without cracking, and barely spreads while baking. You could absolutely make classic gingerbread people and call it a day, no house required. These cookies make for excellent gifts or additions to any holiday party.

A house isn’t built overnight, and neither is a gingerbread house. Well, yes, while it’s possible for the early risers and truly ambitious, I find it much more enjoyable (and less stressful) to bake the pieces one day, apply basic decorations and piping once completely cooled, and assemble them the next. For more construction advice, see my previous post about best gingerbread house building practices.

Chocolate gingerbread, enhanced by the subtle umami undercurrent of shiitake powder, could be the next big thing for seasonal sweets. Rich dark chocolate and the warm spice of gingerbread, elevated by the depth of umami from shiitake powder, is the unlikely combination I personally can’t get enough of. Go ahead; embrace the holiday season with an eye towards nostalgia but an appetite for something new. In this sweet home, all are welcome.

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Thanksgiving Wild Card

It’s a shame that most people turn to wild rice only when Thanksgiving rolls around, though with such a strong and legitimate historical association, they should be forgiven. I am also one of those people, forgetting all about this straw-like black aquatic grass until November, then quickly shuffling it into the back of my mental Rolodex until next year. Though it takes the same amount of time and effort as brown rice, something about cooking it feels like an event.

Wild About Wild Rice

In truth, wild rice stuffing (or dressing, depending on your upbringing) is just a seasonal pilaf or salad, served warm. Would it detract from the magic to make it for a 4th of July backyard BBQ, a birthday party potluck, or a random Tuesday in April? Certainly not, and yet, when that bountiful dish of toothsome, nutty whole grains comes out on the fourth Thursday in November, it sets the scene with a final flourish, dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s on a carefully curated menu.

The All-American Whole Grain

Wild rice, a pseudograin that has captured the hearts and palates of many, is deeply intertwined with Indigenous cultures, particularly the Anishinaabe people of the Great Lakes region. Known as “manoomin,” or “good berry,” it thrives in shallow waters, where it has been hand-harvested for over a thousand years, using canoes and cedar sticks to gently knock the grains into waiting vessels. Wild rice is not only a staple food but also a vital part of spiritual practices and community gatherings, symbolizing harmony with nature. With its impressive nutritional profile, rich in protein, fiber, and antioxidants, wild rice has sustained generations. As we gather to give thanks, incorporating this ancient grain not only enriches our meals but also honors the Indigenous traditions that have shaped American foodways.

Spice Up Your Rice

If you only eat wild rice once a year, let’s make it count. Banish bland boxed mixes and spice things up this year. Fresh jalapeño and Thai bird’s eye chili bring the heat, tempered by the sweet citrus flavor of orange juice, juicy red apples, and a touch of maple syrup. Aromatic and herbaceous, it’s bold yet plays well with others, livening up the typical guest list without commanding all the attention. At the very least, it should remind you not to overlook wild rice yet again.

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Put A Spring In Your Step

Is it safe to come out yet? Have the icicles melted away, trickling into shallow streams through the dense underbrush? Has the ground thawed to make way for tender green shoots, reemerging after months of sleep? Does it feel like spring out there, or just another day?

No matter the current outlook, I promise, spring is imminent. With the promise of warmth and sunshine just on the horizon, there’s plenty to celebrate alongside the arrival of the vernal equinox. It may or may not seem like it right now, but the wheels are already turning to keep life moving forward, pushing fresh, tender greens back to the surface. From crisp asparagus spears to delicate pea shoots, these early harbingers of the season infuse our dishes with vibrancy that signals the end of winter’s monochrome.

As we stand on the cusp of a new season, our senses awaken to the possibilities that spring brings. From the earthy embrace of early vegetables to the sweet symphony of fruits, each ingredient tells a story of renewal and abundance. Start with a few of my favorite seasonal recipes to put a spring in your step, no matter the weather forecast.

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