Tag: sauce

No Shito, Sherlock

Shito is unlike any other peppery potion on the planet. I want to say I developed a mild obsession with this Ghanian staple after editing and photographing one particularly inspiring article for Vegan Journal, but there’s nothing mild about it. While blisteringly hot habaneros are usually near the upper limit of my heat tolerance, when blended with sweet caramelized onions and robust tomatoes, their firepower is utterly transformed. It may still leave you gulping down water, but wanting more nonetheless.

What Is Shito?

“Shito” comes from the Ga language and is short for “shitor din,” which literally means “black pepper,” alluding to the dark color the paste takes on after cooking low and slow. The heat level can be calibrated to taste, unique to each individual cook, ranging from medium-hot to an edible inferno. Exact components and proportions vary by region and household, but common uniting factors include chilies, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and oil. Traditionally, dried fish and/or shrimp is the key to unlocking its distinctive body and richness, earthiness and umami. That may sound like a tough thing to emulate through vegan means, but when you have Sugimoto shiitake powder on deck, it’s as easy as opening a bag.

Shii-to (AKA, Shiitake Shito)

One unexpected benefit of using Sugimoto shiitake powder instead of dried seafood, or even simply ground, dried mushrooms, is that the incredibly fine powder absorbs more liquid, creating a thicker, more substantial sauce. Though it still separates as it sits, it’s much easier to use as part of a bold dip or topping that coats foods lavishly, rather than simply sliding off. Additionally, from a health standpoint, combining shiitake mushrooms with spices like chilies, garlic, and ginger can enhance their immune-boosting properties and increase the absorption of certain nutrients. Hot sauce really is good for your well being!

Spice Up Your Life

Simply swap out your usual hot sauce options for shito, and you’ll know what to do. It’s an all-purpose hot condiment that genuinely goes with everything. If you want a bit more guidance to get started, here are my top suggestions:

  • Spread on wraps and sandwiches
  • Drizzled on top of avocado toast
  • Swirled into soups
  • Simmered into curries
  • Mixed into hummus
  • Tossed with potato or pasta salads
  • Whisked with your favorite vinegar or citrus juice to make a vinaigrette
  • Used in marinades for tofu, seitan, tempeh, or any plant-based protein

Traditional Ghanian dishes that are ideal for pairing with shito include:

  • Waakye, a dish of rice and beans
  • Fufu, boiled and mashed starchy root vegetables like cassava, plantains, or yams
  • Jollof rice, pilaf seasoned with spices and tomatoes

I’m cutting this list short here because we’ll be here all day if I keep going. I have yet to find a single dish that isn’t enhanced by this infallible finishing touch.

FAQ

Still have some burning questions about shito? Don’t be afraid, ask away! A few of the most commonly asked queries are as follows.

Can I make shito oil-free?

No. Shito cannot be made without oil. Shito cannot be made with reduced oil. Shito is an oil-based hot sauce, like chili crisp, and won’t work any other way. Oil is an excellent carrier for spices especially, intensifying flavors and preserving them over longer periods of time, while also absorbing more readily into other dishes. Bear in mind that a serving will only be a teaspoon or two, so it’s not like you’re drinking of cup of oil straight.

How long does homemade shito keep?

When stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, shito can last for at least a month, easily. Just make sure to keep it sealed and use a clean spoon each time you scoop some out to avoid contamination. For longer term storage, I’ve taken to freezing smaller jars so I can make a bigger batch and never run out. It’ll last in the freezer for at least 6 months. Place it in the fridge to slowly thaw out over the course of 24 hours when you’re ready to crack open the next one.

Can I halve the recipe?

Eight cups of hot sauce may sound like a lot to the average person, especially as a first time trial. You can easily cut the recipe in half if you’re not totally committed at first. Just plan to top off with a second batch soon after.

What can I substitute for habaneros?

Habaneros aren’t the only hot peppers in town. If you can’t get your hands on them or just want a change of pace, try using 4 – 6 scotch bonnet or 12 – 14 cayenne peppers. Feel free to experiment, mix and match, and make your own unique blend.

Peppered With Promise

To try shito is to love it. Speaking as a fair weather hot sauce fan, this potent little capsaicin elixir caught me completely off guard. Calling it revolutionary isn’t an overstatement; it’s the undefinable extra something special that I didn’t know my meals were missing. With every spoonful, shito unveils new layers of flavor that will forever change your eating experience for the better.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Sage Advice

When you were a kid, did you ever dream of one day waking up in someone else’s life? To jump out of bed in a brand new room, fully inhabited and carefully curated by someone with an impeccable sense of style? To open the drawers and find all new clothes, exactly your size, but nicer than you’ve ever had before? That’s what it felt like beginning the latest chapter in my new home. Such an immaculate, well-maintained space could only have fallen into my custody by some magical event, like something only my childlike imagination could rationalize.

Inhabiting that dream is a wild endeavor. Instead of waking up right when it starts getting good, you just keep going, discovering more, increasingly incredible things. Every minute detail is yours for savoring, and in the case of the yard especially, that will be an endless odyssey. Clearly, the previous owners had green thumbs, sowing seeds for plants and vegetables up and down the perimeter, into raised beds, across the front walk; everywhere the eye can see.

Gardening has become a full-contact sport. Beating back the weeds, growing tenaciously with thorns and burs outstretched with the threat of violence thick in the air, wasn’t part of the dream I fancied, but honestly, have also come to relish. Ripping out the invasive roots is incredibly satisfying, piling the gnarled roots for composting in a heap that gleams like a trophy in the sun. The real treasure is found when the battle is won, slowly unveiling a panoply of new plants for the taking.

Tomatoes, peas, mint, rosemary, sage- Oh, the sage! Suddenly I’ve inherited a large family of plant babies, but the sage, especially, demands attention. For a pungent herb that goes a long way, I certainly have a ton of it now. The soft, feathery leaves outstretch and tumble outside of their wooden containers, tumbling into the loamy soil below. They push and shove their siblings in an old fashioned show of rivalry, fighting for attention when they already have it. So in this dream world that’s become my life, I’m the steward of an outrageously large patch of fresh sage. No one prepared me for such an outlandish outcome.

Fresh Sage Tasting Notes

Fresh sage has a strong, earthy flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. That’s pretty much the only time I think of it, infusing that herbal aroma into stuffing, gravy, and meatless roasts. Sage is most at home in Mediterranean, American, and British cuisine, adding a subtly peppery, piney, citrus-y flavor that’s unlike any other. This combination makes it an especially compelling addition to dishes with dark leafy greens, mushrooms, lemon, garlic, browned butter, and toasted nuts.

Ideas For Cooking With Sage

If you have a more reasonable amount of fresh sage, perhaps leftover from another dish, here are a few quick, simple ideas for using it up:

  • Compound butter: Cream softened vegan butter with chopped sage, garlic, and/or lemon zest. Roll the mixture into a log with plastic wrap, chill until firm, and slice for a flavorful addition to any dish.
  • Stuffing: Add chopped sage to your favorite stuffing recipe, be it cornbread, wild rice, sourdough, and beyond.
  • Soups and stews: Sage is a great addition to hearty soups and stews, especially bean soups, lentil soups, and potato leek soup.
  • Creamy grain dishes: Sage pairs well with the richness of plant-based cream or coconut milk. Try adding it to pasta dishes with cream sauce, risotto, or polenta.
  • Roasted vegetables: Toss chopped sage with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, or other autumn or winter vegetables before roasting.
  • Fried sage leaves: Fry whole sage leaves in olive oil until crisp. These make a delicious, fragrant garnish for pasta dishes, soups, or roasted vegetables.

Quick Tip For Substituting Fresh Sage

Fresh sage has a stronger flavor than dried, so you’ll generally use less of it. A good rule of thumb is to start with 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh sage for every 1 teaspoon of dried sage called for in a recipe. Bear in mind that sage can become bitter and overpowering if cooked for too long. Incorporate it into your dishes towards the end of cooking to preserve the best elements of its flavor.

Taming A Ton Of Fresh Sage

If you, like me, have an insane wealth of fresh sage, it’s a different story. You really can’t just hammer it into a single dish; it’s already so strong, it would make your meal inedible. That said, pesto is my go-to move, especially when you can diffuse the sage with an equal measure of parsley. While the vibrant green paste is still incredibly powerful, you can safely freeze your pesto for future enjoyment, rather than letting the leaves wither outside in the brutal summer sun.

Of course, that’s not the end of the story. What can you do with sage pesto? I’m so glad you asked! Naturally, anywhere you’d use basil pesto, you can use sage pesto instead. That includes:

  • Pasta: Toss cooked pasta with sage pesto and you can serve it either hot or cold. When chilled, this is a great picnic side dish or guest at a potluck.
  • Pizza: Spread a thin layer of sage pesto over pizza dough instead of red sauce before adding your favorite toppings.
  • Toast: Toast your favorite sliced bread and spread with sage pesto for a delightful appetizer or snack. Obviously, sliced avocado would be an excellent addition, as would roasted tomatoes or pico de gallo.

  • Sandwiches and wraps: Add a spread of sage pesto to elevate your sandwiches and wraps. It pairs particularly well with roasted vegetables.
  • Eggless scrambles or omelets: Fold sage pesto into the scramble right at the last minute, or spread it on the inside of an omelet just before serving. Alternately, dollop or drizzle on top for immediate flavor impact.
  • Soup topping: Stir a spoonful of sage pesto into bowls of tomato soup, minestrone, or creamy potato leek soup for an extra layer of savory goodness.
  • Marinade: Toss tofu, tempeh, seitan, or your favorite meatless protein with sage pesto and let marinate for at least 30 minutes before cooking. The pesto adds both flavor and moisture to the protein.
  • Dip: Thin out sage pesto with hummus, plant-based sour cream, or yogurt for a excellent accompaniment to crackers and crudites.

While I’m still waiting to wake up from this dream, I sure hope that day never comes. I’ve grown quite fond of this new life, including all the sage it brings.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Best of the Worcestershire

It’s hard to pronounce, tough to describe, and even harder to find without animal products. Worcestershire sauce is a flavor enhancer that instantly boosts a wide range of dishes, but is still largely misunderstood.

Making a splash on the culinary scene in the mid-1800’s, this mysterious fermented condiment was invented in Worcestershire, England and debuted by the Lea & Perrins company. Still the leading brand on the market, few worthy competitors have stepped up to the plate. This leaves a gaping hole in the grocery aisle, especially for vegans and those with food sensitivities. That’s because the original formula uses anchovies as the not-so-secret ingredient. While plant-based alternatives do exist, they can still be elusive in mainstream markets.

It’s time we take Worcestershire back. For that distinctive, addictive umami flavor, nothing compares to the power of dried Sugimoto shiitake powder. Despite its earthy origin, this potent food booster doesn’t taste like mushrooms, so you don’t need to worry about your sauce tasting off-key. Enhancing the natural flavors already present rather than adding its own distinctive essence, it’s like magical fairy dust that you really should be using in all of your favorite recipes.

The full power of that umami dynamo is unlocked over time, which makes it especially well-suited for this sauce. Aged and lightly fermented, the savory qualities become even more robust over the course of a few weeks. Though you could very happily enjoy this sauce after just a day or two, your patience will be rewarded in a world of rich umami later on.

How can you you use your homemade awesome sauce? Some of the most classic examples include:

Commercial Worcestershire sauce tends to be much sweeter and more flat, whereas this homemade version is carefully balanced, tangy and tart, punchy and deeply nuanced. Once you give it a try, you’ll never want to go without it again. Luckily, it keeps almost indefinitely in the fridge, stored in an airtight glass bottle. Double or triple the recipe to stay stocked up at all times.

With the right pantry staples on hand, it’s easier, cheaper, and tastier to just do it yourself.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

All Aboard the Gravy Train

If I’ve learned anything over the course of 30+ Thanksgivings, it’s that you can never have too much gravy. While battles could be fought over canned or fresh cranberry sauce, Brussels sprouts or green beans, everyone agrees that the standard serving size for gravy is about a pint per person. No matter what’s on the menu, it’s always much more palatable when swimming in a pool of this savory sauce.

In my early years as a newly minted vegan, I distinctly remember my first tentative meals with the extended family. It was a classic situation where misunderstandings meant there was chicken stock in the rice, butter in the roasted vegetables, and of course not a scrap of plant-based protein to be seen. Prepared to fend for myself, I did come armed with the one thing I knew would enhance any meal: gravy.

Though simple, made from sauteed onions and blended chickpeas, it was a golden elixir that brightened everything on the plate. My only mistake was offering to share because as soon as it hit the table, the pitcher was dry as a bone. Even my picky, omnivorous family who would never dream of forsaking the traditional spread drank down every drop. After that, I learned to at least double, if not triple, my gravy contribution.

My cooking has evolved considerably since then, resulting in a much more complex gravy that’s even easier to whip up. Adding in volumes of umami flavor with a little pinch, Sugimoto shiitake mushroom powder is the ace up my sleeve. Like whole dried shiitake mushroom caps, this miraculous seasoning gains even greater depth when allowed to soak overnight, which makes it an ideal candidate for including in my greatest make-ahead gravy.

Becoming more flavorful the longer it sits, this gravy is your new best friend for Thanksgiving. Prepare it well in advance of the main meal so you don’t need to worry about such a critical component when the day of the big feast arrives. It can scale up almost infinitely, as leftovers keep like a dream. Since there is genuinely no such thing as too much gravy, you won’t regret making this investment in culinary currency.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

How Does Your Garden Glow?

Bursting with unlimited culinary potential, the hardest part of cooking with fresh produce is to simply let it shine. Don’t over-think it! Good taste comes naturally, fresh from the garden, in colors as bold as the flavors within. That’s the premise behind Garden of Flavor, cold-pressed juices from down-to-earth folks that stubbornly believe in quality over unnecessary complexity.

That approach makes a real difference you can taste with just one sip. Certified organic, nothing comes from concentrates, there’s no added sugar, and not a hint of preservatives to be found.

Of course, keeping it simple doesn’t have to mean you’re getting a raw deal. After drinking down a bottle of the Twisted Roots blend for the umpteenth time, it struck me as the ideal base for an unconventional pasta sauce that still bears all the nostalgic comfort of simple Sunday sauce.

Believe it or not, this bolognese has neither meat nor tomatoes, yet it’s not missing a thing in terms of taste. No nightshades needed with this rich sauce, singing of highly aromatic herbs and savory seasonings. Beets and carrots build a solid foundation that can support any noodle in need, be it wheat, bean-based, zucchini, or more.

Omit the nuts for a simple marinara, puree to slather it on pizza, layer it in for lasagnas, add extra juice to soup it up, or add a splash of coconut milk for a creamier concoction.

From garden to table, naturally, it doesn’t get any better.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments