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If there’s any dish that represents the history and heritage of San Francisco, it’s cioppino. Even more so than the storied loaves of sourdough bread produced in droves around the bay, this humble yet simultaneously opulent dish has sustained generations. Tomatoes and seafood meet in an herbaceous broth spiked with white wine, embodying elegance without ostentation. It’s the working person’s humble indulgence, paying homage to the bounty of the region. The lack of plant-based seafood options put me off of attempting to replicate it for far too long. It turns out, nature already has a fantastic alternative to offer: mushrooms.

Mushrooms: The New Seafood

Yes, of course mushrooms! Varieties like king oyster mushrooms, maitake (AKA, hen of the woods), and shiitake, all featured prominently in this rich brew, make excellent seafood alternatives for a few key reasons:

Texture: Mushrooms have a naturally meaty and chewy texture, especially the small, thick caps of Donko Sugimoto Shiitake, evocative of scallops or shrimp when cooked.
Umami: Mushrooms, particularly dried shiitake, are rich in umami, which is also a crucial tasting note found in seafood. This depth of flavor comes from compounds like glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate, which are the uniquely potent trio that Sugimoto Shiitake brings to the table.
Absorbency: Mushrooms are known for their ability to absorb and enhance the flavors of whatever they are cooked with. When seasoned with seafood-like ingredients (such as seaweed, lemon, garlic, and herbs), mushrooms can take on flavors that mimic those of the sea.
Nutrition: While mushrooms don’t provide the same exact nutritional profile as seafood, they do offer important nutrients, including protein, fiber, and various vitamins and minerals.

Chip In For Cioppino

Legend has it that fishermen of yore would all “chip in” a bit of the day’s catch to make a communal vat of stew to share, and if you can imagine that with an Italian accent, the origin of the name would be clear. Others, however, see a more concrete link through the Italian word “ciuppin,” which means “to make soup from fish” or “little soup” in Ligurian dialect. In either case, it illustrates the beauty of this dish, which is infinitely adaptable. Built upon whatever was available at the end of a hard day’s work, there are no hard and fast rules. Had those founding San Franciscans set off into the forests instead of the sea, I’m confident there would be more foraged finds, like earthy wild mushrooms, added to the pot.

Cook Quickly, Savor Slowly

Romantic as the ideas of soup simmering on the stove may be, rarely do I have the time to babysit an all-day affair like that. Instead, I’m coming in hot with a quick-fix approach, taking advantage of my trusty pressure cooker. After sautéing the aromatics, it only takes 10 minutes under pressure to yield buttery-soft mushrooms and meltingly tender vegetables. Should you still want to take this to the stove, it’s easily feasible in an hour or two, tops.

Souper Stew

Cioppino is a complete thought, and thus, a complete one-pot meal. That said, it does beg for a wedge of crusty bread (yes, sourdough) to best sop up all the rich broth. If you’re having friends over and want to stretch it further, a peppery arugula salad would be an excellent counterpoint and of course, it pairs beautifully with a dry white wine. Plan to buy an extra bottle, just in case.

Tides of Change

Just as the tides of San Francisco Bay ebb and flow, so too does the legacy of cioppino evolve, shaped by time, necessity, and now, compassion. While the classic version pays tribute to seafaring traditions, this mushroom-forward interpretation speaks to a modern mindset, valuing sustainability without sacrificing depth of flavor. It’s remarkable how these humble fungi can bridge such a wide culinary gap, offering a taste of the ocean while staying firmly rooted to the forest floor. Tradition isn’t something we preserve—it’s something we reinvent.

Continue reading “Fisherman’s Lure” →