Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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Thanksgiving Wild Card

It’s a shame that most people turn to wild rice only when Thanksgiving rolls around, though with such a strong and legitimate historical association, they should be forgiven. I am also one of those people, forgetting all about this straw-like black aquatic grass until November, then quickly shuffling it into the back of my mental Rolodex until next year. Though it takes the same amount of time and effort as brown rice, something about cooking it feels like an event.

Wild About Wild Rice

In truth, wild rice stuffing (or dressing, depending on your upbringing) is just a seasonal pilaf or salad, served warm. Would it detract from the magic to make it for a 4th of July backyard BBQ, a birthday party potluck, or a random Tuesday in April? Certainly not, and yet, when that bountiful dish of toothsome, nutty whole grains comes out on the fourth Thursday in November, it sets the scene with a final flourish, dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s on a carefully curated menu.

The All-American Whole Grain

Wild rice, a pseudograin that has captured the hearts and palates of many, is deeply intertwined with Indigenous cultures, particularly the Anishinaabe people of the Great Lakes region. Known as “manoomin,” or “good berry,” it thrives in shallow waters, where it has been hand-harvested for over a thousand years, using canoes and cedar sticks to gently knock the grains into waiting vessels. Wild rice is not only a staple food but also a vital part of spiritual practices and community gatherings, symbolizing harmony with nature. With its impressive nutritional profile, rich in protein, fiber, and antioxidants, wild rice has sustained generations. As we gather to give thanks, incorporating this ancient grain not only enriches our meals but also honors the Indigenous traditions that have shaped American foodways.

Spice Up Your Rice

If you only eat wild rice once a year, let’s make it count. Banish bland boxed mixes and spice things up this year. Fresh jalapeño and Thai bird’s eye chili bring the heat, tempered by the sweet citrus flavor of orange juice, juicy red apples, and a touch of maple syrup. Aromatic and herbaceous, it’s bold yet plays well with others, livening up the typical guest list without commanding all the attention. At the very least, it should remind you not to overlook wild rice yet again.

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Tarted Up Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potato casseroles, adorned with gooey toasted marshmallows, or sweet potato pie, gently wobbling atop a buttery crust, are classic staples of the American Thanksgiving feast. Gleaming orange beacons glowing amidst a sea of amber brown, their warm sunset hues adds a splash of color so desperately needed in this largely monochrome meal. There’s more than just the stereotypical orange yam to liven up your grand spread, though. In fact, there’s a whole rainbow of sweet potatoes that would love an invite, for dinner, dessert, or both.

Flipping Delicious

Tarte tatin flips the idea of conventional pastry on its head, so why not give it an extra twist to keep your taste buds spinning? Apples are synonymous with this French invention that dates back to the late 19th century, where legend has it that a distracted cook by the name of Stéphanie Tatin accidentally built their pie upside-down. Whether or not there’s any truth to the story of such an egregious blunder, there’s no doubt that the dessert itself has withstood the rest of time. Why should apples have all the fun, though? Sweet potatoes, full of natural sugar, caramelize against the heat of the metal pan, cooking to a soft, creamy texture to contrast against flaky puff pastry. One quick flip and you’ve got a whole table side performance to serve along with the final course. If you’re the type of family that likes their sweets alongside their savories, it’s an equally compelling addition to the main menu.

Shades Of Potatoes

Purple potatoes are no longer the shocking rarity they once were, but they can still be tricky to shop for. Many are simply labeled as “Japanese sweet potatoes” despite the fact that there are many varieties within that broad subcategory. Just because it has purple skin doesn’t mean it has purple flesh, so don’t be misled by exterior appearances. Seek out Purple Stokes, Okinawan, or Molokai sweet potatoes specifically for the best, most vibrant results. White sweet potatoes are no different, often surprising unsuspecting cooks with the shock of pale flesh lurking beneath the peel. Murasaki Sweet Potatoes, Hannah Yams, and Bonita are your best bets. Orange sweet potatoes are commonplace, but for tubers of distinction keep your eyes peeled for Garnet, Jewel, and Beauregard sweet potatoes.

Serving With Style

Glossy, glazed with rich caramel syrup, the paper thin spuds glisten as their soft edges catch the light. It seems like a shame to cover such a work of art with any sort of topping, and truly, there’s no need to. A thin slice feels much more substantial on the fork, with all the richness and body you need to complete feel wholly satiated. For those craving just one last flourish, whipped coconut cream or vanilla bean ice cream, delicately melting into the warm surface, will never steer you wrong. On the opposite side of the flavor spectrum, bitter dark chocolate sauce or crunchy cacao nibs could help take down the sweetness a few notches, as would a bracing cup of hot coffee on the side. To amplify the texture of the crispy puffed crust, sprinkle toasted pepitas, sliced almonds, or chopped pecans all over, which are perfectly paired with any other toppings, too.

More Taters, Less Haters

All sweet potatoes are beautiful, gnarled roots, pock-marked skins, and all. If you’re not fortunate enough to find a full rainbow of options at your disposal, don’t despair! Even if you chose just one color, be it the classic orange or jewel-toned purple sweet potato, your tarte tatin will provide a radiant vision of autumn’s bounty, condensed.

Think you’ve already covered the potato portion of the program this Thanksgiving? Dig a little deeper. Aesthetics aside, expanding your array of sweet potatoes adds that much more depth and nuance in the flavor department, unlocking a wide range of nutty, honeyed notes. Layered together in an effortlessly elegant overlapping spiral of poly-chromatic slices, the singular beige interior of your average apple can’t compete. Tarte tatin was meant to be so much colder and brighter; this is one simple yet stunning dessert that will always turn out.

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Get A Cobb On

Salads shouldn’t just be a side dish or an after thought. Down with wilted iceberg lettuce and stale croutons! I’m all about those hefty, fully loaded meal salads that have tons of color, texture, and flavor going on. The classic Cobb is a good example of that, traditionally piled high with meats, cheese, and eggs. On top of my obvious vegan conversions, I wanted to take a more seasonal approach for a new, novel Autumn Cobb Salad.

Vegan Innovations

To start with the vegan adaptations, we can replace traditional proteins with plant-based alternatives that not only complement the dish but enhance it. Instead of crispy bacon, consider using pecans seasoned with a smoky flavor to provide that quintessential crunch. Hard-boiled eggs can be swapped out for hearty, diced potatoes, seasoned with sulfurous kala namak, which lend a satisfying creaminess without sacrificing substance. For the chicken, chickpeas are an excellent choice, adding protein and a nutty flavor that ties the salad together.

Seasonal Swaps

Seasonality is the secret ingredient that can transform an ordinary salad into something truly special. In this fall feature, pomegranate arils take the place of conventional tomatoes, infusing each bite with a burst of sweetness and vibrant color. Instead of the typical scallions or chives, opt for pickled onions. Their tangy crunch elevates the flavor profile and adds depth.

When it comes to greens, we’re turning to shredded collard greens instead of the usual lettuce. This hearty green not only provides a more robust texture but also aligns perfectly with the season’s bounty. Finally, rather than dressing the salad with traditional ranch, a maple-balsamic vinaigrette introduces a balance of sweetness and acidity, capturing the essence of fall in every drop.

Timeless Staples

Even amidst these changes, there are certain staples that remain unassailable. Creamy avocado adds richness to the dish, while a sprinkle of vegan blue cheese, store-bought or homemade, provides that unmistakable funk, rounding out the flavor experience perfectly.

Salad Days Are Here Again

Salads can be so much more than an afterthought. With a little creativity and a focus on seasonal ingredients, they can take center stage as a nourishing, satisfying meal. Say goodbye to the wilted greens of the past and hello to a vibrant, fully loaded salad that you’ll want to dig into all autumn long.

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Be Still My Bleeding Heart

Given that there are over 70 organs in the human body, each playing a vital role in health and wellness, a strikingly disproportionate amount of attention is paid to the heart. I could easily name 50 songs about hearts off the top of my head but only one about the pancreas. Don’t even get me started about the number of idioms and common heartfelt sayings.

I’ve personally been told that I have a good heart, a kind heart, and a big heart, but I can assure you, it’s completely unremarkable, no different than anyone else’s. Here, let me show you.

Eat Your Heart Out

They say that vegans can’t be cannibals but it’s all about consent for me. I’d happily offer my heart on a platter to the right person, and that’s certainly not cruel. Perhaps I show my love differently than most? At least I make my affection obvious.

Grand gestures aside, my heart really is delicious, if I do say so myself. Velvety braised red cabbage, shallot, and apple intertwine in a sweet and savory gel, firm and sliceable, perfect for serving atop a leafy salad. Whole fennel and coriander seeds add a bright, aromatic kick, of course, but also a delightfully unsettling crunch every now and then.

Bloody Good

Beets are great for reducing blood pressure, don’t you know? Perhaps that explains this blood red beet velouté running through my veins. Buttery, silky smooth, with ample umami and a surprising kick of spice, it’s rich enough to spoon up like soup. In fact, a double batch of blood with diced heart would make for a delightful hot stew.

Eat To Your Heart’s Content

Perhaps the heart looms large in our imaginations because it’s actually this delicious, and we’re all just afraid to find out. Well, here’s your chance: Indulge your darkest desires and serve yourself a hearty portion. I promise you’ll love it.

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Adventures In Bread

Can something without yeast or flour really be called bread? Though it sounds like a trick question, the answer is unequivocally yes. The Life-Changing Loaf of Bread by Sarah Britton lived up to its name for fervent fans while redefining what bread could be. Popularized about 10 years ago by one Josey Baker under the moniker of “Adventure Bread,” it’s little more than a cohesive slab of nuts, seeds, and oats. The ingredients read more like granola than bread, but I’m getting ahead of myself here.

Time-Honored Traditions

Adventure Bread is nothing new. Nutrient-rich bread crafted in this same spirit has been a staple in many cultures for centuries. Providing a long-lasting source of energy and nutrition, they were the lifeline for hardworking folks from all walks of life. One notable example is the traditional German Vollkornbrot, a whole grain rye bread that is dense and packed with seeds. Similarly, Scandinavian countries have their own versions of dense, seed-filled breads, such as rugbrød in Denmark. These breads were not only nutritious but also had a long shelf life, making them ideal for long journeys and outdoor activities.

No Gluten, No Problem

Modern dietary preferences are well-suited to such a hearty loaf, being naturally gluten-free and vegan. The secret ingredient here is psyllium husks, which naturally bind these otherwise disparate elements into a dense, sliceable, and toothsome treat. Found in the supplement aisle, they’re wildly high in fiber and create a thick gel when mixed with water, much like the flax and chia seeds also found in this mix. Together, they create the glue that transforms assorted pantry staples into a unified, golden brown bread.

World Bread Day 2024

In honor of the 19th annual World Bread Day, I wanted to embark on my own baking adventure and make this lovable loaf even easier. For anyone still nervous about trying their hand at homemade bread, this is the foolproof starter recipe for you. There’s no kneading, no rising, no resting, and only five ingredients (or seven, if you count water and salt). Instead of measuring out separate nuts, seeds, fruits, and oats, just grab a box of your favorite muesli and you’re halfway done.

Venture Forth and Eat Well

For best results, let your loaf cool completely before slicing thinly. As the name would imply, it’s an ideal snack to pack for your next adventure, whether you go hiking, traveling, or just head-first into a long day at work. More convenient than a bowl of cereal, healthier than a pastry, and far easier than homemade sourdough, everyone can join in on this small side quest. Don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten baking path.

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