Tag: recipe

Lentils, Through a Different Lens

Some people judge the credibility of a Mediterranean restaurant by its falafel. Others decide its merits based on the hummus. Personally, I decide whether or not its worth a revisit after trying the soup.

Lentil soup, Turkish lentil soup, red lentil soup; whatever subtle variant it goes by on the menu, it should be relatively the same thing: a hot stew redolent of cumin and coriander, onions and garlic, made from red lentils stewed so hard that they simply give up on their corporeal form. There’s no blending needed to create the moderately thick, naturally creamy texture. Hopefully, a small wedge of lemon will come on the side for that final punch of acid, if the kitchen really knows what they’re doing.

Does anyone else order it? Rarely does it seem to grace the tables, other than my own. I don’t care if its made weeks or days or even months in advance, preserved in an icy tomb of a freezer, so long as it comes out steaming and comforting as ever. Yes, it’s simple, as the most difficult dishes are. There’s nowhere to hide mistakes.

I crave it terribly, all year round, despite the equally terrible heat bearing down most of the year. Typically it’s worth the pain (and sweat), but there’s no need to suffer. I’ve recently started taking the matter into my own hands, translating those essential elements into a chilled salad format. Best of all, this rendition cuts the cooking time down into almost nothing, since red lentils soften at the drop of a hat. In fact, that becomes the biggest challenge when you flip the script; instead of simmering them into nothingness, it takes greater finesse to cook them so lightly, that they remain intact.

Sure, I’ll fancy it up a bit with more substantial, forkable vegetables, like a genuine bean salad should be, while staying true to its roots. In the winter, it would be wonderful to take those same tomatoes, bell peppers, and swap in diced carrots, roast them, and serve the whole thing warm instead. That’s an idea to file away for now, as the heat rages on. These days, it’s an absolute delight tucked inside tender pita bread, wrapped up in lavash, or simply served in a generous bowl, always thoroughly chilled.

Yes, soup season is eternal, but so is salad season. There’s no reason why we can’t have both.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Correctly Spelt

After graduating from basic whole wheat flour in the early days of my baking career, spelt was next on the list of crunchy-granola staples. Spelt, of course, is simply another species of wheat, though I didn’t fully grasp that at the time. I even paraded out a “wheat-free” version of my famous Root Beer Float Cupcakes, which very clearly and prominently use spelt flour for the bulk of the batter. A swing and a miss, 18 year-old self. Now older, wiser, better at researching essential facts, and inspired by the unbeatable quality of Grand Teton Ancient Grains, it’s about time we talk about how to correctly consider spelt.

What Is Spelt, After All?

Spelt is an ancient variety of wheat that dates back at least 5,000 to 8,000 years, originally cultivated in parts of present-day Iran and southeastern Europe. It eventually made its way into Germanic and Celtic diets, becoming a staple crop throughout Central Europe, where it’s still beloved and widely used. While it fell out of favor with the industrialized agriculture boom, thanks to modern wheat’s enormous yields and pest resistance, spelt has never gone away. It’s endured like a family heirloom in traditional farming circles, and recently, begun to make a comeback in the modern kitchen.

How is Spelt Different From Modern Wheat?

Spelt is often lumped in with modern wheat, and while it is related, spelt is genetically distinct. It has a tougher outer hull, a different gluten structure, and a far richer, more diverse nutrient profile.

Modern wheat has been bred for high-gluten, high-yield performance in industrial baking to make fluffy sandwich bread and ultra-white cake flour possible. In contrast, spelt remains largely unhybridized, preserving many of its original characteristics. That means more flavor, more nutrition, and for some folks, easier digestion. While it’s not gluten-free, many people with wheat sensitivities (not celiac disease) report better tolerance for eating spelt.

What Does Spelt Taste Like?

Flavor-wise, spelt is in a league of its own. It has a subtle, earthy sweetness and a soft nuttiness. Cooked as a whole grain, it has a satisfyingly chewy bite, similar to barley, but with a bit more delicacy and a mellow, toasty undertone. I can’t help but think of cozy autumn soups or grain salad whenever I cook up a fresh pot.

When ground into flour, spelt produces a golden, soft meal that works beautifully in everything from rustic sourdough loaves to hearty cookies and wholesome muffins. It has a slightly lower gluten strength than modern wheat, which gives baked goods a tender but often more dense crumb. It’s less elastic but more flavorful, so you’ll often see it cut with bread flour or all-purpose flour to achieve a lighter loaf or dessert.

How is Spelt Used?

Spelt is wildly versatile, well beyond the flour most people are accustomed to seeing on grocery store shelves. It can slide right into nearly any recipe that calls for whole wheat. Here’s a breakdown of the most common forms:

  • Whole berries: The entire grain, with its tough outer husk removed. Great for cooking like rice or barley, in grain bowls, soups, and salads. In Europe, its often used as the base of plant-based milk alternatives as well, either by itself or blended with other whole grains.
  • Spelt flour: A baker’s best friend, this flour can be used in breads (its especially popular in sourdough), muffins, pancakes, pastas, and cookies. It can be swapped in for whole wheat flour in most recipes, though it’s best not to go full 100% in place of white all-purpose flour, especially in more delicate baked goods like cakes and pastries.
  • Rolled spelt (spelt flakes): Much like rolled oats, this form cooks quickly and is great for breakfast porridge, granola, or baking applications.
  • Puffed spelt: A light, crunchy form often used in cereals, granola, and snack bars. It’s more mild in flavor which may make it an easier sell for children or picky eaters.
  • Spelt bran: In refining the grain, the outer layer (the hull) is sometimes removed and sold separately. It’s particularly high in fiber and often added to baked goods for a nutritional boost.

Spelt, The Nutritional Powerhouse

Spelt has a lot going for it nutritionally. It contains more protein than standard wheat and it brings a generous dose of fiber to the table. It’s also rich in key minerals like manganese, phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, and iron. Plus, it boasts a solid profile of B vitamins, including niacin (B3), riboflavin (B2), and thiamin (B1), all crucial for energy metabolism and nervous system health.

What really sets spelt apart is its unique combination of fiber and resistant starches, which feed beneficial gut bacteria and support digestion. Studies have suggested that it’s beneficial for supporting and repairing the microbiome, which can have huge impacts on overall health. Again, it’s not gluten-free, but anecdotal evidence (and a few small studies) suggest that spelt may be easier on sensitive stomachs than modern wheat, AKA refined white flour.

Cooking With Whole Spelt Berries

Whole spelt berries are easy to cook and hard to mess up. They hold their shape, remaining al dente even after a hard boil, and they soak in any seasonings you throw at them like culinary chameleons.

  • Soak first (optional but recommended): Soaking the grains overnight or for at least 6 – 8 hours shortens the cooking time and may improve digestibility. Just cover them with plenty of water, let them sit, and drain and rinse thoroughly before cooking.
  • Stove top method: Combine 1 cup of whole spelt berries with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 40 – 60 minutes if starting from dry, or 30 – 50 minutes if soaked. You’re looking for plump, chewy grains with no crunch in the center. Drain any excess water.
  • Pressure cooker method: Use 2 1/2 cups of water per cup of grains. Cook soaked spelt for about 15 – 20 minutes on high pressure; unsoaked grains will need closer to 30 – 35 minutes. Allow for a natural release and drain well.

Souper Spelt

As previously mentioned, I can’t think of spelt without imagining warm, hearty autumnal vegetables. Colored in deep reds, oranges, and amber hues, the tawny brown of spelt fits with that fall harvest like it was always meant to be. As temperatures drop, my thoughts also turn to cozy soups and stews, which is why the very first thing I did with my freshly cooked spelt berries was turn them into this seasonal minestrone. They take the place of semolina pasta for a more flavorful and nutritious brew, paired with tender parsnips, squash, potatoes, and white beans to make a deeply satisfying one-bowl meal.

Infinitely adaptable, as all good soups are, you can trade the veggies for anything at the market, and anything your heart desires. Starchy vegetables like kabocha, delicata squash, turnips, rutabaga, and even radishes are all good choices when you want to switch things up. If you’re tired of kale, try shredded cabbage or shaved Brussels sprouts. All beans are beautiful, so while I tend to favor a more delicate white bean in this application, genuinely any legume would be welcome in this pot.

Clearly Spelt Out

Spelt might not be the trendiest grain on the shelf but it’s clearly stood the test of time to earn its keep. With deep historical roots, rich flavor, and real nutritional value, spelt is the ancient grain that’s as relevant today as it was millennia ago. Whether you’re baking bread, stirring up porridge, or just exploring new grains in your kitchen, spelt is well worth a spot in your pantry. Once you get a taste, you’ll want it around all the time.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments

Firfir For Real

Ugly but tasty; that’s firfir, alright. Made from torn pieces of injera, it’s a thrifty way to use day-old bread and a few pantry staples. Of course, leftover injera isn’t something I’ve ever had at my disposal, so rare and precious that every scrap is exhausted long before the stews alongside. Firfir is every bit as special, no matter how simple. Now that I can order injera whenever I want, firfir is back on the menu, fresh and vibrant as ever.

Injera, the spongy, sour flatbread at the heart of Ethiopian cuisine, is a flatbread I could never make from scratch. All it takes is teff flour, water, and salt, but that’s not the whole story. Days of fermentation are what create its signature flavor and texture before its spread in paper-thin layers, even finer than French crepes, demanding untold years of practice to master. Anyone without access to an Ethiopian restaurant was out of luck, until Red Fox Spices began selling both Ivory and Brown Teff Injera inside their meal kits and, most important to this culinary adventure, solo.

What Goes Into Firfir?

There’s no “correct” way to make firfir. Mercifully, that also means there’s no wrong way to do it, either. It’s a dish of memory more than measurement. You’ll find variations all across Ethiopian households, each adapted as the technique passed through the hands of generations of cooks. Some brightened with fresh tomatoes, others simply use tomato paste or sauce. Some are fiery hot, others more mild. The only constant is the teff flatbread base, liberal use of oil and onions, and a heavy hand when applying berbere.

Berbere: The Heart Behind the Heat

There is no talking about firfir, or frankly, Ethiopian cuisine at all, without singing the praises of berbere. Crimson and potent as a red-hot flame, it’s the essential spice blend that pulses through almost every dish like a low, melodic hum. Smoky chili peppers take the lead, supported by a chorus of garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cumin, cardamom, allspice, and more. Like every other element of the cuisine, proportions vary from home to home, though it will always knock you off your feet with layers of complex flavor. I’m happy to get an assist from Red Fox Spices on this one too, as it’s the real deal.

Firfir For Days

Timeless, foolproof, and always well-received, firfir can be enjoyed for any meal. In Ethiopia, it’s most commonly served for breakfast, scooped up with even more fresh injera.

Firfir may not win any beauty contests, but it’s the kind of meal that’s meant to be eaten with your hands, not your eyes. Now that the key ingredients, injera and berbere, are readily available for shipping all over the world, there’s no excuse not to bring this soulful, spicy tangle of comfort into your own kitchen.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Pop Quiz

Standing over a gently simmering pot of basmati rice, lid slightly ajar, I was suddenly swept up by the most familiar, cozy aroma. Nutty, warm, and unmistakably nostalgic. It took me a second to place it, but once I did, there was no denying it: popcorn. The rice smelled exactly like freshly popped popcorn.

That toasty, buttery, slightly roasted perfume has a surprising overlap between the two completely unrelated ingredients, and there’s actual science behind it. The same compound responsible for popcorn’s crave-worthy scent, 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline, or 2-AP for short, is the aromatic essential in basmati rice. In fact, it’s found in everything from toasted bread to pandan leaves, but it seems to come through most clearly in the iconic long grain and exploded kernel.

Scientifically Delicious

What makes the comparison even more compelling is that their similarities don’t stop at that one molecule. Not to get too nerdy, but you science buffs out there may also recognize:

Pyrazines which bring the earthy, roasted warmth.
Furfural adds a whiff of baked bread and honey.
Hexanal and nonanal layer in fresh, fatty green notes like crushed leaves.

So naturally, I wondered, what if you brought them together?

Popcorn infused into rice, by way of rich coconut milk, borrows some of its inherent toasty, buttery notes at the same time. It’s at once cozy and nostalgic, yet still tropical and sunny. A hint of sweetness rounds it out, creating that addictive interplay with an equally subtle touch of salt.

Take a page from traditional coconut rice and serve steaming spoonfuls alongside your favorite curry, under roasted vegetables, or all on its own. Like every good bowl of popcorn, it’s dangerously easy to finish the whole batch in one sitting.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

The Khorasan Conundrum

You can separate the wheat from the chaff, but can you separate Khorasan from wheat? Wheat is all too often described as a single, homogeneous crop, flattened down to its most basic definition. It’s no wonder ancient grains are still so misunderstood. This most essential cereal is the umbrella term for a wide, diverse array of unique whole grains. Durum wheat may ring a bell, and bakers can probably tell the difference between hard red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter wheat. Khorasan, however, is also a type of wheat, but is largely overlooked, if not entirely unheard of.

It’s time we brought Khorasan back in to the spotlight as the superstar superfood it’s always been.

What is Khorasan and Where Did It Come From?

To be perfectly honest, up until Grand Teton Ancient Grains reached out to me and introduced me to this great grain, I was equally ignorant. Khorasan makes up a tiny fraction of wheat production globally, since modern varieties have been hybridized to be much more resistant to pests, have higher yields, and lower processing costs. That selective breeding has also nutritionally crippled most wheat on the market, but we’ll talk more about that in a bit.

Khorasan is named for the Khorasan region of Persia, encompassing parts of modern-day Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. It’s believed to have originated roughly 4,000 to 6,000 years ago from this Fertile Crescent. Grains resembling Khorasan have been found in Egyptian tombs, sometimes giving rise to the romantic moniker of “King Tut’s Wheat.” It didn’t reach the US until the 1940 following World War II.

So How Is Khorasan Related To Kamut®?

Kamut®, oh Kamut®, as if Americans weren’t already confused about their varieties of wheat. Kamut® is simply the trademarked brand name for Khorasan, as sold by one single company, Kamut® International. It’s the difference of bandage vs. BandAid® or copy machine vs. Xerox®, which is to say, mostly marketing and inflated costs.

What Does Khorasan Taste Like?

Two or three times larger than modern, mass produced wheat, these oblong, tawny brown kernels plump when you cook them, assuming a softer, rounder shape, almost like jumbo brown rice. Comparable to the subtle earthiness of spelt or farro, but with an added layer of buttery sweetness, Khorasan carries a natural nutty, toasted warmth and complexity. When cooked, especially as a whole grain, it reveals delicate caramel or honey-like undertones.

Cooked as a whole grain, it has a pleasantly chewy, plump bite, similar to barley but smoother and less gummy. Each kernel holds its shape well after cooking, offering a satisfying toothiness that makes it ideal for grain salads, pilafs, and soups. When ground into flour, Khorasan produces a soft, golden meal that yields tender baked goods with a slightly denser crumb than all-purpose flour. The gluten in Khorasan is less elastic than in modern wheat, which means bread made solely from Khorasan flour tends to be denser, but with a wonderful moistness and rich flavor.

How is Khorasan Used?

Besides eating the whole grain much like you would rice for pilafs, salads, risotto, and more, Khorasan is an incredibly versatile ingredient to use for a wide range of different applications.

  • Ground into flour: Milled into a soft, fine flour with a golden hue, Khorasan flour is a baker’s delight. It can be stone-ground or roller-milled, depending on the desired texture and application. The most popular uses are breads (particularly sourdough), pastas, crackers, cookies, and cakes.
  • Puffed: Using a high-heat, high-pressure machine (similar to the process used for puffed rice or puffed millet) causes the moisture in the grain to rapidly expand, “popping” the kernel into a fluffy yet crisp cereal.
  • Rolled or flaked: Steamed and flattened like rolled oats, rolled Khorasan wheat cooks more quickly and is easier to digest than whole berries. It’s ideal for making hot cereal, granola, and baking, anywhere you’d otherwise use oatmeal.
  • Sprouted: Soaked and allowed to germinate, the whole grain can be sprouted like seeds and legumes. They can be eaten fresh in salads and stir fries or dried and milled for inclusion in breads.

Khorasan, The Nutritional Breadwinner

Nutritionally dense, Khorasan is unique from other strains of wheat due to its impressive protein content, which is typically 14 – 17% (20 – 40% more than modern wheat). It also contains a small but meaningful amount of healthy fats, including essential fatty acids, and a moderate dose of dietary fiber to support digestion. On the micronutrient front, it lays claim to healthy amounts of magnesium, zinc, and selenium. Iron is also present in higher levels than in modern wheat, along with B vitamins like niacin (B3) and thiamin (B1).

Khorasan is not gluten-free, as it’s still a strain of wheat, though there’s anecdotal evidence that it may be easier for some with wheat sensitivities to digest. People with celiac disease should still sit this one out, sadly.

Cooking with Khorasan

If you find yourself with a generous bag of whole Khorasan berries from Grand Teton Ancient Grains, you don’t need a grain mill to get cooking. These whole grains have become a fast favorite for me because they’re almost impossible to overcook.

  • Soak Khorasan for 6 to 12 hours, and ideally overnight, to not only reduce the cooking time but also improve their digestibility. Simply cover the grains with a few inches of cool water in a bowl and let them sit at room temperature. Once soaked, drain and rinse the grains before cooking. If you choose not to soak, just be prepared to cook the grain longer to achieve the same tender texture.

  • For stove top cooking, combine 1 cup of dried Khorasan wheat with about 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover loosely, and let it cook. If the grains were soaked, they’ll typically be done in 30 to 40 minutes; unsoaked grains usually take 50 to 60 minutes. When done, they should be plump, tender, and pleasantly chewy, with no chalky center. Drain any excess liquid.
  • If you prefer a quicker method, Khorasan can be cooked in a pressure cooker. Use about 2 1/2 cups of water per 1 cup of grains. For unsoaked Khorasan, cook on high pressure for 30 to 35 minutes; soaked grains need only 20 to 25 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally and drain if needed.

Converting Classic Grain Dishes

The beauty of Khorasan is how effortlessly it can replace boring, bland, mushy long grain white rice. Don’t get me wrong, the latter still has its place in my pantry, but it’s all too often used in places where it just doesn’t belong. The beloved Broccoli Cheese Casserole is an obvious example. As a southern staple, it’s the easiest way to get a green vegetable into picky kids, since it’s mostly made of cheese and starch.

I love the idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. Cooked into oblivion, you don’t need to chew the end results. Khorasan is the solution to making a far more satisfying meal, with a real toothsome bite, along with more fiber to make it satiating beyond its soul-soothing, comforting taste.

My version naturally eschews the unctuous dairy foundation for a simple cheesy cashew sauce. Fresh broccoli, tossed right into the pan without any fussy blanching, stays tender-crisp instead of being cooked to death. This is the kind of dish you can bring to a potluck and watch disappear, before you can even utter the words “healthy” or “vegan.” Really, who needs the disclaimer in the first place? It’s simply delicious, feeding the heart, body, and planet all in one fell swoop.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Like A Rolling Scone

In the same way that a British “biscuit” is very different from an American “biscuit,” Scottish potato scones were nothing like what I had envisioned. Scones have a good deal of natural variation to begin with; some are buttery and flaky, while others are fluffy and cake-like. A comparable pastry is what I thought would grace my plate, but what I got was something else entirely. Truth be told, I was so overwhelmed by the breadth and depth of delicious items on a full breakfast platter that I didn’t realize until recounting the meal later, beginning to describe the unusual triangular flatbread when it hit me: That was the scone.

What Are Potato Scones, AKA Tattie Scones?

Potato scones, unlike their loftier baked brethren, are unleavened quick breads cooked on the stove top. Leftover mashed potatoes are the key to their soft, tender texture, and a thrifty way to prevent food waste while stretching a limited budget. In some ways, they’re like giant pan-fried gnocchi that’s cut into wedges, though they have more in common with Bannocks, another specialty of the British Isles. Potatoes are charmingly referred to as “tatties” in Scotland or sometimes “totties,” particularly in Glasgow, to explain their more informal name.

Old World Flavor, Modern Methods

Personally, I’ve rarely been graced with leftover mashed potatoes. When I make them for dinner, they’re the main attraction. They’re barely even a memory when it comes time for breakfast the next day. When it comes to making tattie scones, it’s more efficient to simply use instant mashed potatoes; you get more consistent results in terms of texture, there’s no additional cooking required, and you can leave the masher in the drawer where it’s already firmly wedged.

Scone Your Own

As a basic subsistence food, classic tattie scones are unadorned and unbothered. I’ve laid out the essential formula, but found them much tastier after adding some mixed dried herbs. For additional richness, use melted vegan butter instead of olive oil, and you can even pan fry them in additional butter or oil for a decadent finish. I found that they really didn’t need much added fat when using a nonstick pan, and to go in the opposite direction, you could make them entirely oil-free if desired. They’re just that versatile! Naturally, you could swap in fresh mashed potatoes as well, and to that end, mashed sweet potatoes, pumpkin puree, or any other starchy vegetable you prefer. The amount of flour will vary depending on your choices, so just measure with your heart. You can’t go too far wrong.

Serving Scones With Style

Though often seen as a breakfast food, tattie scones are welcome at the table for any meal.

  • For breakfast: Enjoy them instead of toast with your eggless scramble, spread with butter and jam, or top with peanut butter and sliced bananas.
  • For lunch: Serve alongside soup, cut into croutons for salad, or fill two wedges to made a sandwich.
  • For snack: Scoop up hummus, guacamole, or dip into seasoned olive oil.
  • For dinner: Treat them like little flatbread pizzas and top with marinara sauce, vegan cheese, and any meatless or veggie toppings you like.

Mash Hits

Potatoes can do no wrong. Tattie scones may not look like much, but that modesty is part of the appeal; humble, adaptable, and deeply satisfying in a way that only comfort food can be. What started as a surprise on a breakfast plate has turned into a new staple in my kitchen. Sometimes the best discoveries are the ones you never see coming. Whether you’re rolling out a traditional Scottish breakfast or simply looking for a new way to highlight the beloved spud, these unassuming savories are well worth a spot on your table.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)6 Comments