Just Nuts

Simple pleasures are what feel like genuine luxuries to me. I’ve come to terms with the fact that I’m not a fancy person; I don’t crave fine dining and I’d rather go foraging for food than shop at Erewhon, any day of the week.

Along those lines, I think about Marcona almonds as an attainable indulgence, but only once in a while. After all, the “queen of almonds” wouldn’t taste as royal if they became a daily habit, right? Skinless, buttery, with a soft yet crisp bite, they’re just nuts like any others, yet somehow so much more. When I see a neat little bowl of these tawny gems on display, I know we’re talking real money here.

As such, I don’t make Marcona almond money. I do, however, always have a stash of standard nonpareil almonds on hand, which are easily elevated to a level of greater opulence with just a touch of olive oil. What separates these nuts from the rest of the bushel is a higher fat content, so why not give them a little boost? Briefly frying the kernels in grassy, peppery olive oil gently cracks through their thin skins to infuse the meat inside.

Sizzling and popping in the pan, they unleash a cacophony of joyful sounds as their toasted, nutty scent fills the air. Merely the act of cooking them is a pleasure, long before they ever cross your lips. The whole experience of it never fails to brighten my day.

Seasoned gently with herbaceous rosemary, sweet orange, and delicate flaky salt, there’s no secret ingredient here. No crazy technique, no surprise twist. What you see is what you get, and what you get is even better than the combination sounds on paper. Yes, you need to use a generous amount of oil, which is worth it for this snack and beyond. Save the excess for cooking later to instantly boost the flavor of your next dish!

It doesn’t take great sums of money to feel rich. The simplest things, treated with love and respect, will get you there, too.

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Not Only In Dubai

If something like Dubai chocolate has become so popular that it’s even piqued my mom’s interest, you know there has to be at least a degree of legitimacy to it. This isn’t a knock against my mom, but a commendation. She doesn’t bother with food trends nor waste her days doom scrolling through social media brain rot. If it hits her radar in a meaningful way, it’s wise to take notice. When explaining my latest recipe project inspired by the now famous Arabian luxury confectionery, she already knew the reference. As if I wasn’t already eager to try it, that sealed the deal.

Bringing Dubai To My Dad

This isn’t about my mom, though; it’s actually inspired by my dad. Whenever I see something made with pistachios, I immediately think of him. Notoriously difficult to treat when it comes to food gifts, preferring the basics over indulgence everyday, sweet pistachios are an easy win. Pistachio ice cream or pistachio brittle; pistachio baklava especially, with its layers of flaky pastry drenched in honeyed syrup. That phyllo draws another parallel to the famed chocolate, which is filled with the shredded version known as kataifi. Failing to find such a rarity locally, I nearly gave in and ordered it online, when I realized there was a better answer: coconut.

Nuts For Coconut

Long strands of shredded coconut have a texture that’s uncannily similar to kataifi when smothered in dense nut butter. Plus, it’s another one of my dad’s favorite things. Then, switching the sweetener from plain white sugar to maple syrup sealed the deal. A house is not a home without a bottle of pure maple syrup ready and waiting by his, and now my, estimation. Just don’t tell him that these clever swaps crafted out of flavor preference unintentionally made this outrageously decadent confection reasonably healthy.

Made Better

No refined sugar, gluten-free, soy-free, and of course dairy- and egg-free; Coconut Dubai Chocolate uses a darker base to offset the soft, pale green filling. Nutty, toasted, subtly woodsy, chewy, and a touch creamy, such a rich world of flavor is encased in a snappy dark chocolate shell! Don’t worry about running out to buy specialty molds either; I made mine in popsicle molds, filling in the hole for a stick with chocolate first. Otherwise, there’s no shame in making mini bites with an ice cube tray.

Is it an perfect dupe of genuine Dubai Chocolate? Absolutely not. It’s much better.

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Bean Counter

Peanuts are legumes, so why don’t more people treat them as such? Crunchy when toasted, creamy when blended, and inescapably rich in natural oils, they do indeed behave more like nuts, but I can assure you, these babies are beans all the way through. That’s not just some fun trivia to impress at dinner parties. The distinction between nuts and legumes changes how I’ve come to think about them in the kitchen. Nomenclature and botany aside, treating peanuts like beans flips the script in a whole new savory direction.

It all started with boiled peanuts. Slowly simmered inside once brittle shells, they soften to become the southern answer to edamame in their pods. Tender, flavorful, buttery, and briny, this classic preparation hints at their versatility and full culinary potential. Take it a step further with more liquid, and eventually, you’ll end up with peanut soup.

Groundbreaking Groundnuts

Peanut soup isn’t a groundbreaking concept, but one that’s ripe for reimagination. It has deep roots in West Africa, where peanuts, AKA “groundnuts,” have long been a staple. They meet with fiery chilies, ginger, cumin, and more, singing with the heat and intensity of African cuisine. When enslaved Africans were brought to the Americas, they brought their culinary traditions along with them, including the technique of using peanuts as a base for rich, savory soups.

The South, particularly Virginia, where peanuts have been grown since the 18th century, has adopted a milder, more delicate spin on peanut soup. It’s a simple affair that starts with onions and celery, uses flour as a thickener, and is enriched with heavy cream. Building that concept out into a more well-rounded snapshot of southern fare, it seemed a crime that no one ever thought to invite collard greens to the party.

The Southern Twist

In my mind, collard greens are the stalwart champions of Southern cuisine. Growing like weeds, bitter yet beguiling, their abundance is a testament to the tenacity of their keepers. Their earthy tartness perfectly balances the rich, nutty sweetness of peanuts in this velvety blend. Using crunchy peanut butter is the shortcut that ensures a perfect consistency, with toothsome bites of chopped peanuts and a silky-smooth base, all at once. Celery, naturally salty, is another essential vegetable that gets little fanfare in most recipes. Their feathery leaves are the final garnish that brings the whole dish together, echoing the sauteed base of aromatics within.

Know Your Beans

Peanuts are a curious contradiction in the culinary world. Though they behave like nuts, look like nuts, and taste like nuts, they’re beans, through and through. Often relegated to sweet treats or snack foods, recognizing them as beans opens up a whole new realm of savory possibilities. Peanut soup takes peanuts back to their roots, and puts them back at the center of the menu. Hearty enough to beat back the cold of any winter, this is one easy, tasty way to make peanuts worth more than a hill of beans.

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Cashews Are Magic

Is there any nut more versatile, more agile, or more beloved than the cashew? I don’t want to hear a word from the peanut gallery; everyone knows those are really legumes, after all. Curved like oversized commas, a buttery, toasted cashew could give any hungry eater pause, too. I had been so enamored with the tropical nuts that at one point, I wanted to write a cookbook called, Cashews Are Magic. While this never came to pass, their enchanting powers still hold true.

The magic lies in their textural transformation. Soak raw cashews, and they soften into a dreamy canvas for creamy sauces, dips, and vegan cheeses. Imagine a luxuriously rich Alfredo sauce or a velvety cashew queso, all dairy-free and deeply decadent. Don’t forget cheesecakes, both raw and baked, or mousses of every flavor.

Neutral or subtly nutty in flavor, cashews don’t need to be the star of the show to shine. That strong foundation complements everything from chocolate to berries, herbs to chilies, without any misgivings.

Incredibly shelf-stable, requiring no refrigeration until soaked, there’s no excuse for being without cashews at all times. They’re an essential pantry staple, ready to whip into a creamy creation at a moment’s notice. Plus, with a healthy dose of plant-based protein and essential fats, cashews have both brains and beauty, keeping you satiated and energized.

Don’t underestimate the humble cashew. It’s a nutrient-rich ingredient with a chameleon-like ability to transform into dairy-free sauces, cheeses, dips, and even decadent desserts. With a little creativity, cashews can become the cornerstone of a delicious and versatile vegan kitchen. While there’s no cookbook on the horizon from me, here are a few of my favorite cashew recipes so far.

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Pepper-Upper

More than fresh produce, or lack thereof, warming spices define seasonal treats as we enter the winter months. Crystallized ginger dances in soft cookies sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, while nutmeg frosts the top of frothy eggnog glasses. Clove and allspice infuse warm pumpkin pies, but what about a flavor that will really spice things up? Sichuan peppercorns aren’t exactly a typical taste for the holidays, but considering their zest and uncanny ability to lift the spirits, they deserve a place of honor at your next fĂȘte.

Still a somewhat obscure ingredient in the US that may not feature prominently at your mainstream supermarket, both green and red peppercorns have become much more widely available in recent years. Up until 2005, they were actually banned from import into the US, so unless you had access to the black market, you were out of luck. Now, like everything else it seems, they’re easy to find online, if local specialty stores can’t keep the shelves stocked.

Green Sichuan peppercorns are simply unripe berries harvested from the same vine that produces red pepper berries. They bear the same pungency found in the other peppercorns, with hints of citrus and a more earthy aroma. True red peppercorns are left much longer to ripen and dry in the sun. Their real claim to fame, however, is less about their flavor, and more about their effect. The distinctive tingling, mouth-numbing experience is unmistakable, transcending the normal understanding of what constitutes spice. It’s not exactly hot in the conventional sense, but certainly not bland in the least.

Why not apply that unique taste to more festive treats? For something that will take the bite out of winter’s chill and reinvigorate the weary spirit, go ahead and throw a pinch of this secret ingredient into any dish, really. Use it instead of that boring old black pepper and watch your cooking come to life.

If you’d prefer a more measured integration, consider the classic candied almond. Perfect for last-minute gifts, host/ess presents, easy appetizers, or late night snacks, there’s nothing a lovely lacquered nut can’t do. Crisply toasted with caramelized brown sugar, infused with a touch of molasses sweetness, you could stop right there and have a delightful, if basic, little morsel. Add in orange zest and the punch of Sichuan peppercorns to elevate each crunchy nut to a whole new level. Soy sauce instead of pure sodium lends a savory, lightly salty hit at the end.

Bask in the culinary glow of warming spices, and consider adding Sichuan peppercorns into your permanent seasoning lineup. A little pinch goes a long way.

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