Pantry Gold

There are snacks, and then there are situations. Poha chivda can qualify as both. It can be methodically planned out, or like my rendition, borne of random cravings and the leftover dregs of a waning pantry. The eating experience is much the same, starting innocently with just a handful, enough to tide you over until the next meal. Five minutes later, half the jar is gone and you’re left wondering why you didn’t double the batch.

What Is Poha Chivda?

Poha chivda is a crunchy, savory Indian snack mix built on a foundation of crispy, toasted flattened rice, AKA poha. From this humble beginning, it’s all about layering in flavors with whole spices, fragrant curry leaves, nuts or seeds, and just enough heat to get your attention. Like the best recipes, it’s barely a recipe at all. There are no hard and fast rules for poha chivda, right down to the actual amounts. When in doubt, measure with your heart.

This version stays true to the core concept but plays with the fine details. Instead of the usual peanuts or cashews, I use pepitas. They toast up beautifully and add a subtle nuttiness without overpowering the mix. Shredded coconut accentuates those nutty notes while adding a subtle sweetness, balancing the earthy, citrusy aroma of fresh curry leaves. Turmeric, always and obviously, is essential. It turns everything the kind of contagious yellow that makes your fingers glow a little; a small price to pay for edible gold.

There’s No Wrong Way To Enjoy

Such small components may make it seem like anything but finger food, but I can assure you, there’s no shame in eating it by the handful. You can go in with spoons if you’d rather be more dainty, and there are many other ways to enjoy it as well:

  • Sprinkled over salads or grain bowls.
  • As a crunchy topping for creamy soups or dal.
  • On avocado toast.

It’s pantry cooking at its best: quick, adaptable, and deeply satisfying. And, like most good snacks, it barely lasts long enough to cool.

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Don’t Leaf Curry Alone

Curry” isn’t just a type of stew, or a paste, or even a powder. Curry leaves came before all of that, appearing in text as early as 100 CE. A treasured staple of south Indian cuisine, their complete absence in overseas markets is downright astounding. Even with my penchant for exploring new flavors and obscure ingredients, my first taste of fresh curry leaves was only a few months ago. Now, I’ll spend the rest of my life making up for lost time.

What Do Curry Leaves Taste Like?

What do they taste like? No, seriously, I’m still asking myself that question. I popped a spry green leaf into my mouth and chewed, racking my brain for a good comparison. Shiso had the closest flavor profile I could come up with, but even that is a stretch. Musky, piney, resinous, tannic, nutty, and pungent, there’s truly nothing else like them. Don’t bother looking for substitutes; you’re better off just omitting them, unfortunately.

Where Can I Get Curry Leaves?

This is the million dollar question, the real barrier to entry here. Realistically, it’s more like a $2 question when you find a source, and you’ll get at least a half bushel of the things for that price. Take as many as are offered because they freeze beautifully, which means you can always have an ample supply on hand. Unless you have access to a robust Asian or Indian market though, it’s unlikely you’ll find fresh curry leaves nearby. Dried are available online, but of course, they lack the same punch and vibrancy.

What’s The Best Way To Cook With Curry Leaves?

I’m so glad you asked! Cooking with curry leaves is intuitive once you start thinking about them as both a whole spice and herb. Naturally, they’re best suited with Indian recipes, tempered in hot oil before a stir fry, stew, or sauté, bringing out the aromatic, volatile oils. The leaves can be used whole, much like bay leaves, but they’re fully edible and thus don’t need to be removed before serving. Dried, ground curry leaves can be applied like any other seasoning, although again, don’t expect the same distinctive bouquet of flavors.

Health Benefits of Curry Leaves

Curry leaves have a long history of medicinal usage with proven results. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E, and minerals, their nutritional value is as powerful as their culinary potential. A key component of Ayurvedic medicine since ancient times, curry leaves are noted for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They’re also believed to aid in digestion, improve hair and skin health, reduce cholesterol, and even help manage diabetes. If you’re ever feeling the effects of eating too many beans (AKA flatulence), chew on a few raw curry leaves for relief. It’s a surprisingly effective and affordable fix!

Curry Leaf Recipes

Now that I finally got my hands on these greens that have more culinary value than dollar bills, I’m trying to spend them wisely on only the most promising recipes. Here’s the list of suggestions that I’ll be working through shortly:

The beauty of curry leaves is that they go with genuinely any Indian dish. Just throw a handful into whatever you’re cooking for an instant flavor upgrade.

Curry Up Now

If you’ve ever wondered why your home cooking doesn’t taste quite like your favorite meals from Indian restaurants, curry leaves are the missing ingredient. The instant impact that a small sprig can have is astounding, like turning a light switch on in a dark room. Come into the light, and give fresh curry leaves a try.

Zaika Zeitgeist

Buffets tend to be a losing proposition for vegans. For the all-inclusive flat fee of admission, you’re paying steak and seafood prices for steamed broccoli and iceberg lettuce. Even those paltry plant-based offerings should be “enjoyed” with caution: it’s guaranteed that there’s dairy in the dressings, cheese on the prepared salads, and cross contamination galore across the open chafing dishes bubbling away. There’s ample reason why I’ve avoided them studiously for years, well before concerns of COVID put an end to most mainstream smorgasbords.

Zaika Indian Contemporary Cuisine, however, is the antidote to this dying art. Despite otherwise catering to omnivores, they carve out space every other Sunday evening to host an all-vegan buffet. Not only can you rest assured that there’s no hidden chicken stock or ghee, but it’s also entirely oil-free. Anyone who limits their oil intake, or likes to indulge at Indian restaurants, knows that is rarer than a unicorn sighting. On top of that, almost everything is gluten-free, too.

For over six years now, Zaika has hosted these feasts, providing fresh, healthy, homemade food that welcomes everyone to the table. Originally inspired by a local Indian doctor’s recommendations, it began as a way for patients on strict dietary protocols to enjoy a taste of home, minus the negative health repercussions. Word spread through the local community, slowly but surely, expanding that fan base to people from all walks of life.

Banish fears of hidden dairy or menu misunderstandings; nothing is off limits here for plant-based eaters. Grab a plate and step right up, try a little bit of everything and don’t be afraid to go back for more. You won’t be judged for taking seconds (or thirds) of the richly spiced cabbage mattar, which is my personal favorite, or the mild and sweet tofu tikka masala. Trays are refreshed regularly, quickly, to keep everything on the line hot from the kitchen and abundantly stocked.

Baked, not fried potato samosas are an unexpected sensation, swaddled in homemade pastry with a softer texture than is traditional, yielding easily to meld with the tender spuds within. Bright green mint chutney is absolutely essential for peak enjoyment, soaking in and brightening each bite with invigorating herbaceous flavor, ending with a subtle kick of jalapeño heat.

What you won’t find on the buffet are garlic naan, but that doesn’t mean they’re out of reach. On the contrary, the chefs care so much about the quality of these popular flatbread that they’re made only on demand, ensuring that every diner gets their own personal batch, still warm, soft, and perfectly chewy.

The real struggle will be leaving room for dessert, because yes, you finish your meal with an array of sweet treats, too! Typically laden with ghee, milk, and heavy cream, this was the first time I’ve ever been able to finish a meal at an Indian restaurant with dessert. Even if you’re completely full, you must try a tiny spoonful of gajar halwa (mislabeled in the above photo). Impossibly buttery strands of shredded carrot are infused with brown sugar sweetness, tasting for all the world like a Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole. In fact, it’s fantastic enjoyed right alongside your entree, creating a crave-worthy contrast to all the spicy, tangy, bold seasonings on that main plate.

While the regularly daily offerings are fantastic as well, this is the kind of event worth planning the rest of your bi-weekly schedule around.

Zaika Indian Contemporary Cuisine
9025 Research Blvd #100
Austin TX 78758

Naan-Stop

In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.

What Is Kashmiri Naan?

Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.

Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.

Breads Rising From the Himalayas

Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.

Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure

Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.

  • Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
  • Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
  • Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
  • Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.

Serving and Savoring

Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.

While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.

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Chut The Front Door

Chutney may seem like a bit player; an afterthought or nonessential inclusion in a large array of dishes, but in actuality, it’s the critical thread that ties a meal together. Derived from the Hindi word chatni, which literally means “to eat with appetite,” chutney is as diverse as the panoply of condiments found in any given home.

Cilantro chutney, coconut chutney, and tamarind chutney are some of the most popular, especially in the US, but why stop there when we have so many other flavors, and such ample umami, at our disposal? Mushroom chutney, made with supple Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms, is the all-purpose meal starter and finisher that’s indispensable in my kitchen.

Mushroom chutney, while less common, certainly isn’t unheard of. The power of a well-crafted chutney is how it can combine sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and spicy into one small spoonful. Intense and powerful, that quality is only amplified when you add Sugimoto shiitake into the mix.

What Is Chutney?

Defining chutney is akin to defining salsa. They can be sweet or sour, hot or mild, made from fruits and/or vegetables, from fresh produce or dried, blended smooth or left chunky, and the options go on. Chutney is a boundless concept with endless combinations and permutations that can be further modified to personal preferences.

I’ve always seen western-style chutney as being somewhat related to Italian agrodolce. Intensely flavorful with a powerful contrast between vinegar and sugar, they’re cooked down like jam, ideal for preserving an excess of any perishable produce. In truth, chutney is anything that you make of it, entirely flexible and customizable to personal preferences.

What Makes Mushroom Chutney Special?

Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms are so powerfully aromatic and flavorful, just a little bit goes a long way. Thus, a little spoonful of mushroom chutney can light up a whole dish in an instant. Best of all, while I adore using the thick, meaty Donko shiitake caps, it’s an ideal opportunity for using up any extra stems you may have been saving from previous recipes. The texture itself can be kept coarse or blended further; it’s effortless to smooth out the rough edges of any stems with a finer grind.

Redolent of bright, punchy ginger and bolstered by toasted cumin and mustard seeds, every bite is a new adventure. Tender chunks of sweet apple soften the acidity of tart yet fruity sherry vinegar and balance out the overall flavor. Effortlessly livening up new recipes or leftovers with ease, the combination is complex, mildly spicy, and altogether invigorating.

How To Serve Mushroom Chutney

Although it’s most frequently seen as a condiment, chutney can provide a substantial portion of a meal. Personally, I see different preparations as being better suited to smoother or chunkier textures.

Chunky Chutney:

With big, meaty pieces to really sink your teeth into, this version is best used as a topping, relish, or side. Consider adding it to…

Smooth Chutney:

Kept thick, smoother chutney is perfect for spreading, while adding more liquid to make it pourable opens up a whole new world of opportunities. Try using this one as…

  • Sandwich spread
  • Dip with chips, papadum, or samosa
  • Salad dressing
  • Sauce for cauliflower steaks or plant protein
  • Base for soup
  • Gravy over mashed potatoes
  • Marinade for tofu, tempeh, or seitan

Variations and Substitutions

Don’t fret if some of these ingredients seem out of reach or unappealing. Everything is up for debate, easily swapped and modified to suit your specific tastes.

  • Vinegar is one of the most important ingredients in successful chutney-making. I love the nuanced acidity of sherry vinegar, which harmonizes beautifully with the apples and sugar. If we’re being honest though, absolutely any acidic liquid will do. That means apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, rice vinegar, coconut vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, and more are all excellent candidates. Use what you’ve got or play around with new options to keep things fresh.
  • Sugar is key for taming the harsher notes of all that acid. Brown sugar is my favorite for its warm molasses flavor, but that’s also completely adaptable. An equal amount of coconut sugar or date sugar can create a similar sensation with a lower glycemic index, while a few drops of liquid stevia or monk fruit can help make it safe for people who need to cut back on added sugars altogether.
  • Spices make up the heart and soul of any good chutney. Whole spices are generally preferable to ground, for their more intense flavor and added texture. If you only have ground, though, it can certainly work in a pinch. Just reduce the measure to about half of what’s called for when using whole spices, knowing you can always add more later as needed.

Mushroom chutney, featuring the umami superstar known as Sugimoto shiitake, is where tradition meets innovation. It turns a simple, earthy ingredient into a flavorful powerhouse that can elevate your cooking game.

The next time you’re in the kitchen, give this savory sensation a try. Whether you’re an experienced chef or just starting out, shiitake mushroom chutney promises a burst of flavors in every bite. Your taste buds will appreciate the adventure, and anyone else lucky enough to get a taste will be impressed with your elevated culinary acumen.

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Stick with Kati Rolls

Kati rolls are a special sort of food that exists beyond spoken language. It needs no translation, even if this is the first time you’ve heard such a word. One glance and all the mysteries are revealed. The kati roll is fluent in delicious, which is the most compelling form of communication on everyone’s lips.

What are kati rolls?

Soft flatbread, lightly crisped on the outside, wraps around an aromatic and highly spiced filling; the epitome of indispensable street food. Kati rolls are strikingly similar to fajitas in construction or open-ended burritos when finished. Originally, skewer-roasted kebabs were at the heart of it all, beginning life not unlike our modern day hot dog. Thus, the name comes from the Bengali word kathi, which means “stick,” in reference to the bamboo sticks used for cooking the protein. The bread is merely the vehicle, but simultaneously an essential part of the whole build.

The most “complicated” part of making kathi rolls to preparing the chapati (AKA roti.) I say this in quotes because it’s an incredibly simple flatbread made from minimal, common pantry staples that’s well within everyone’s grasp.

Even if you struggle with bread baking, this is a great way to ease into the art, since there’s no yeast involved and you truly can’t over-knead it. Gently charred by pan-frying on the stove top , you don’t need to preheat your oven, either. The biggest struggle can be carving out the time on a busy weeknight, to which I say: Don’t sweat the details.

Traditionally, the flatbread of choice for making kati rolls has been paratha. Infused with buttery, flaky layers throughout, that particular unleavened dough does take a bit more finesse. I’d rather save such intensive labor and overall decadence for a stand-alone snack, ideally with a side of chutney or curry sauce for dipping.

What are good alternatives to homemade chapati?

While all flatbread are not created equal, you can absolutely make mouthwatering kathi rolls using a wide range of ready-made solutions with great success. For best results, brush them with oil and lightly griddle them on both sides before rolling to make them more flexible. A few options include:

It’s what’s on the inside that counts

Beef, lamb, and goat kebabs no longer need apply for this starring role. In fact, the most popular fillings are now largely vegetarian. Typically focused on cubes of fresh paneer that are masala-marinated and tossed with sauteed peppers, it’s a simple, adaptable combination that never gets old. Step up that umami quotient with Sugimoto shiitake for an even better experience.

Koshin shiitake mushrooms are perfectly suited for this application, bearing wide, long caps that are ideal for slicing into meaty strips. Instantly boost the overall flavor profile while incorporating a more satisfying, toothsome bite with that one effortless addition.

Are kati rolls healthy?

Keeping it vegan, cheese is out and tofu is in. Swapping the two lowers the fat, increases the protein, and removes cholesterol entirely. Factor in those high-fiber veggies and you’ve got a real superfood snack on hand!

Kati rolls are the ultimate meal prep hack

Designed to be eaten on the go, kati rolls are ideal for make-ahead meals, packed lunches, and traveling snacks. After assembling the rolls, wrap them individually in foil and freeze for up to 6 months. Whenever you’re ready to eat, either simply let them thaw out and enjoy at room temperature, or stick them in a toaster over or air fryer for a few minutes until warm and crispy. Keep chutney or hot sauce separate to apply as desired.

You don’t even need a recipe to make a kati roll. It could be made completely from leftovers, restaurant takeout, or prepared foods from the grocery store. Kati rolls are whatever you want them to be, whether they’re made 100% from scratch or with zero cooking involved. The only way you can go wrong is if you don’t start rolling in the first place.

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