Peared Down

Identifying an entire category of fruits by one continent of origin is not only reductive, but quite confusing. Asian pears are diverse, hailing from China, Japan, Korea, and beyond, in as many different varietals as our beloved American apples. Round, clad in matte tawny brown or chartreuse skin, they arrive in markets carefully swaddled in foam nets, more delicate than hard European pears that are picked prior to ripening. When a fruit is handled with more care than your average carton of eggs, you know it has to be something special.

What Does An Asian Pear Taste Like?

As with every broad culinary classification, there’s no one “Asian Pear,” but myriad types with their own unique tastes. In general, Asian pears are remarkably crisp, with a texture more akin to the short bite of fresh jicama than the creamy, soft flesh of a European pear. This is their main distinguishing characteristic, which can come as a surprise to those unprepared. Sweet, jammy, floral, tart, citrus-y, woodsy, and buttery, sometimes interchangeably and sometimes all at once; expect apple-adjacent flavors which can differ based on the harvest of any given season.

Pear-fect Serving Suggestions

The best thing you can ever do with peak fresh produce is just eat it raw. The resoundingly crunchy bite is incredibly satisfying, sinking your teeth straight into that papery skin that easily gives way. That same crisp texture means they’re excellent candidates for slicing very thinly, maintaining their shape and resisting oxidation longer than other cut comparable fruits on charcuterie boards, in salads, on bruschetta, and more.

Their structural integrity makes them excellent candidates for baking and cooking, too. Poached Asian pears will never fall apart or get mealy, just like a baked and stuffed approach, too. Korean marinades often blend Asian pears into the mix for a balanced sweetness and added tenderization. They can be stir-fried, stewed, dried, and even pickled.

Fall-in For Asian Pears

Domestication and global markets have brought Asian pear trees to every viable growing climate. That means they’re available all year round, but domestic production culminates in the fall. Thankfully, varieties including LilySan, AnaSan, EliSan, New Pear, and JunoSan can last up to three months when properly stored and refrigerated. Now is the time to stock up at your local Asian market, farmers market, or online stores.

Redefine what “pear-shaped” means and expand your understanding of this wide-ranging cultivar. You’ll never look at the average fruit basket the same way again.

Passion Of The Fruit

Wild passion fruit, Mossy passionflower, Running pop, Wild water-lemon, Love-in-a-mist, Love-in-a-mist passionflower, Stinking granadilla, Stinking passionflower, Stinking passionfruit, Wild passionfruit, Fetid passionflower, Scarletfruit passionflower, Passionflower, Killip, Red-fruit passionflower, Goat-scented passion flower, Atlas Cedar, Galapagos passionflower, Love–in-the-mist, Papbush, Scarlet-fruit Passion-flower, Tagua passionflower, Red fruit passion flower…

I’m not even partway through the opening paragraph and the names just keep on coming. For a single plant to have so many potential titles, you know that it’s made some serious friends—or enemies—over the years. The unmistakable crowns of threadlike tendrils, contrasting with the delicate petals in shades of white, pink, purple, or even deep burgundy, are as stunning as they are persistent. If you plant them once, you have them for life. This is how I came to find my new lawn dominated by their succulent vines and ostentatious blossoms.

What ARE Wild Passionfruits?

For the sake of simplicity, I refer to them as “passionfruit,” but they’re distinctly different from the tropical variety. Smaller, bright red when ripe, and with a far drier pulp inside, Passiflora foetida L. has more in common with maypops, another similar southern variant. Ask five people what they taste like, though, and you’ll get five different answers. Perhaps it’s a matter of terroir, but mine are mildly sweet, not tart, not sour, not anything else like I’ve read online. Subtle, with more crunch than flavor, figuring out just what to do with this windfall has been an unexpected adventure.

Ideas For Cooking and Eating Wild Passionfruit

If you’re in a similar boat with odd red fruits raining down like hailstones, you’re in luck! I’ve found countless ways to enjoy these oddities, though depending on the exact tasting notes of your personal cache, your mileage may vary. Be prepared to dial in the sweetness and seasonings to best suit your preferences.

  • Dressing: Think of them like papaya seeds in this case, perfect to swap into a sweet-and-sour salad dressing. Adapt any recipe you like, but I’ve found great success by blending 1 shallot, 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons wild passionfruit pulp/seeds, 1 tablespoon maple syrup, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Once smooth, stream in 1/2 cup olive oil to emulsify.

  • Smoothies: If you just want a bit of added nutrition, you can’t go wrong with any sort of smoothie! Blend it completely smooth and you won’t even know it’s there.
  • Muffins and Quick Breads: Mix 3 – 4 tablespoons of the seeds and pulp into any muffin or quick bread batter to add a satisfying little crunch every now and then. This is an especially enjoyable addition to lemon-poppyseed muffins and banana bread, if I do say so myself.

  • Jam and Jelly: When in doubt, just add pectin. This is my favorite recipe because you can toss the fruits whole into the pot when you’re ready to start cooking. The skins contribute a ruby red color, then use a slotted spoon to strain them out, keeping the seeds for that characteristic crunch.
  • Fruit Salad: Toss the pulp with fresh seasonal fruits, like cherries and blueberries, or more tropical picks like pineapple and mango, to introduce more texture.

Are wild passionfruit the kind of culinary sensation that would drive people to spend upwards of $4 a piece, as is the case for the tropical variety? Not so much. Do they have absolutely stunning flowers that yield a side benefit of a nice little snack every now and then? 100%. Take advantage of this pervasive “weed” and embrace the wild vines. Once you’ve got ’em, they’re yours for life!

Bonkers For Sonkers

Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

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Plantain A-Peel

Don’t Call It A Green Banana

The humble plantain is so much more than just another starchy fruit. This tropical staple has been gracing tables and nourishing generations for centuries, as early as 500 BCE. Despite that, they remain mysterious and unapproachable to many American cooks, at least in my experience. After fielding the same questions every time I share a plantain recipe, time has come to set the record straight. Rich with history, flavor, and nutrition alike, plantains are a culinary treasure that deserve a place in your kitchen, too.

A Very Brief History of Plantains

Plantains, often mistaken for their close relative, the banana, are actually a distinct and hearty fruit that originates from Southeast Asia. Over the centuries, they’ve become a staple in many tropical regions around the world, with particularly strong roots in African, Caribbean, and Latin American cuisines. The spread of plantains can be attributed to their affordability, durability, and adaptability, making them a reliable source of sustenance for many cultures across the continents.

Selecting the Perfect Plantain: Shopping Tips

When it comes to picking ideal plantains, a little patience and a keen eye are key. Unlike bananas, plantains are usually selected for their starchy nature. This means you’ll often find them in varying stages of ripeness, each lending itself to different culinary uses.

  • Green Plantains: Firm, green plantains are perfect for savory dishes. These are the ones most commonly called for in recipes, and the ones I’m referring to when I call for them unless otherwise specified. They’re not sweet, similar to potatoes in consistency and flavor. Look for ones with minimal black spots or blemishes for the best results.
  • Yellow Plantains: As plantains ripen, they turn yellow and develop a sweeter taste. These are excellent for both sweet and savory preparations, offering a balanced flavor profile.
  • Black Plantains: Fully ripe plantains with blackened skin may seem past their prime, but they’re actually at their sweetest, similar to their banana brethren. They’re perfect for making sweet dishes like desserts and snacks.

Common Cooking Methods

Plantains are incredibly versatile, embracing a wide range of cooking methods to suit your culinary desires. Here are a few popular techniques to explore:

  • Deep frying or air frying: Sliced plantains can be fried until golden brown to create the beloved dish known as tostones or patacones. These crispy delights are often served as a side or appetizer, accompanied by a variety of dips or salsas. Cut into paper-thin coins, you’ll create crunchy plantain chips, especially popular as a grab-and-go snack at convenience and grocery stores worldwide.
  • Boiling or steaming: Boiled plantains are a staple in many Caribbean dishes. They take on a softer, smoother texture that’s easily mashed or pureed, and can be enjoyed alongside meatless proteins, stews, or beans.
  • Baking or roasting: Baking plantains brings out their natural sweetness. Simply slice them, drizzle with a touch of oil, and bake until caramelized for a healthier take on this tropical treat.

Unlike bananas, they’re not as tasty eaten raw. While perfectly safe to consume, they can have a slightly bitter flavor that disappears with the application of heat, and an unpleasantly chalky texture.

Must-Try Plantain Dishes

Plantains play starring roles in a multitude of traditional dishes across different cultures. Here are a few iconic preparations that truly showcase the versatility and flavor of these remarkable fruits:

  • Mofongo (Puerto Rico): Mashed green plantains combined with garlic, pork cracklings, and seasonings, resulting in a savory dish that’s both hearty and comforting.
  • Fufu (West Africa): Plantains are boiled, mashed, and shaped into a dough-like consistency. They’re often paired with stews or sauces, serving as a delightful alternative to rice or bread.
  • Maduros (Latin America): Sweet plantains are fried until caramelized, resulting in a delightful side dish or dessert that perfectly balances sweet and savory flavors.

Less conventional but more creative takes abound for such an endlessly versatile ingredient. Just a few ideas to get you started include:

  • Baked in their skins and stuffed like a loaded potato
  • Steamed and mashed, with vegan butter or gravy
  • Sliced and grilled, on or off skewers
  • Thinly sliced lengthwise and used to make lasagna
  • Mashed and used to make quick bread, tortillas, pancakes, or burger buns
  • Diced or shredded and sauteed like hash browns

That’s only the start! Anything you’d make with potatoes or sweet potatoes, you can make with plantains, too.

Nutritional Bounty of Plantains

Beyond their delectable taste, plantains offer a range of nutritional benefits. Rich in vitamins A and C, potassium, and magnesium, they support immune health and heart health especially. They’re also a great source of dietary fiber and complex carbohydrates, making them a satiating source of energy, but bear in mind that they are very calorie dense for this same reason.

Platano, Good To Go

Plantains are more than just a tropical fruit; they’re a culinary adventure waiting to unfold. From their storied history to their myriad of cooking possibilities, these versatile gems have found a place in kitchens and hearts across the globe. Whether you’re savoring the crispy delight of tostones or relishing the sweetness of maduros, plantains are sure to make every meal a richly rewarding journey worth savoring.

Raising a Stink

Durian, the so-called “king of fruits,” is quite possibly the single most polarizing food known to man. The aroma is so distinctive that you’d identify it in a second, even on your first encounter. I’ll never forget my first time in Hawaii when I spotted one of those prickly, thorn-covered shells. Sussing out the smallest one in the pile, I bagged my prize and escorted it back to my room. Surely, the rumors were overblown; this didn’t seem too bad! There was a light funk but nothing unmanageable. I stashed it in the mini fridge and went about my day.

Later that evening, something was amiss. Had an animal gotten in and died in the walls? Had someone forgotten to take out the trash, full of dirty diapers, for a week? To my horror, as I approached my door, the smell got stronger, and stronger…

Yes, it was the durian.

What does durian taste like?

Some people love that ripe pungency but to me, it’s an obstacle to get through. My best explanation is to compare it to a mixture of rotting onions, moldy cheese, sweaty gym socks, and a porta potty at the end of a music festival. Pungent and assertive, it’s the reason why durian is banned from many public spaces in Southeast Asia.

The flavor of durian is considerably more mild, with subtly sweet notes that add a final note of confusion on the back end. Some call the texture custard-y because it’s creamy and rich, but the high fat content would put the average pudding to shame. The unctuousness makes it impossible for me to eat more than a few bites straight.

How can you cook with durian?

Durian will never be my favorite food. However, once I stopped trying to eat it like a dessert or a sweet snack as it is typically recommended, I started I see the appeal. Leveraging the allium flavor to lend greater depth to recipes where raw onion would be far too harsh, my first big breakthrough happened when I blended it into a bright, punchy pesto sauce.

Pureed to a silky smooth consistency, this also helps alleviate any textural challenges. Durian pesto pasta might sound a bit crazy, and maybe it is, but it’s also delicious.

My greatest success came in the form of crispy durian rangoons. Chopped enoki mushrooms lend the filling a chewy seafood-like texture to take the place of crab meat, while durian brings in that creamy, gooey decadence typically conveyed by cream cheese. This killer app could help ease durian-haters back into the fold. No one can resist a deep-fried wonton, especially with a beer or two.

Fresh durian is not cheap, and a little bit goes a long way, so I’d suggest blending the whole thing and freezing it in ice cube trays for future use. That way you can pop out a cube or two whenever you’d like, which will prevent spoilage and cut down on that oppressive aroma. It only gets more intense as the fruit sits out at room temperature. Consider yourself warned!

Try incorporating durian puree into a wide variety of dishes, such as:

Don’t be afraid to play around with it! Love it or hate it, you’ll never forget your first durian.

Continue reading “Raising a Stink”