Eggplant is one of those ingredients that I love eating, but forget about for long stretches at a time. Invariable, I’ll see it pop up on a menu or food blog, vow to cook it more often, and then… Forget again. Forever relegated to the bottom of the produce bin, the last call at the farmers market, eggplant will never be the next viral trend. After considering my own eggplant negligence, I’m finding it’s more of a cultural disconnect than lack of culinary potential. Look no further than the Mediterranean countries to see the difference.

Turkish Delights

Though not native to Turkey, eggplants have been the guest of honor on Turkish tables for centuries. This isn’t just conjecture; 16th century Ottoman cookbooks boast over 140 eggplant recipes. That’s to say nothing of what home cooks may have adapted and improvised. Unlike the ubiquitous globe eggplants common in the US, Turkish eggplants are smaller and come in various colors, from lilac to deep purple. There are even white and baby green varieties. Less bitter than the seedy, bulbous giants we’re accustomed to here, they don’t need extensive salting, soaking, or additional prep. With fewer barriers to entry, it made me realize that perhaps my mental block is simply due to using the wrong type of eggplant all this time.

Get Stuffed with Karniyarik

“Karnıyarık” translates to “split belly” in Turkish, describing the way the eggplants are sliced open to create an accommodating boat for a savory stuffing. Traditionally deep fried and then baked, I see no need for all that oil—and heat—when twice-baked baby eggplants are every bit as luscious and tender. Starting with a classic sofrito, ground beef or lamb is typically the focal point for the simple stuffing, but I happen to think that Sugimoto Shiitakes beat that kind of meat any day. Gently simmered with seasoned lentils, it’s the kind of dish that will put eggplant back on the map, especially for plant-based people.

Karniyarik Vs. Imam Bayildi

Traditionalist would be up in arms, racing to argue that this is not karniyarik at all, but in fact, imam bayildi. They’re not entirely wrong; the latter is the historically vegan version, made without meat. However, I think of my rendition more as the former, since I wanted to replicate that same rich, hearty eating experience with homemade plant-based ground meat. Sugimoto Shiitake stems are the secret to creating that beefy texture and deeply umami flavor. Never toss the stems! They’re even chewier than the caps, which makes them such an ideal fit for making meatless grounds.

Love Your Leftovers

There will be a generous amount of filling leftover; that’s an asset, not a flaw! Consider it your next meal waiting to happen, since it’s ideal for stuffing any variety of fresh vegetables, such as:

• Bell peppers
• Tomatoes
• Cabbage rolls

Or, using as a filling or topper for:

• Burritos
• Tacos
• Salads
• Rice bowls

That’s not all! If you add a binder like breadcrumbs and ground flaxseeds, this humble mixture can be transformed into:

• Meatloaf
• Burger patties
• Meatballs

Naturally, it’s fabulous as part of any dinner plate, acting as a complete entree or side dish, too.

Karniyarik: A Staple of Summer

Beautiful baby eggplants aren’t available all year round, unlike their oversized brethren. While you could always make this recipe with halved globe eggplants, the experience isn’t the same. As summer harvests reach their peak, now is the time to try something new. In fact, you could always bake karniyarik well in advance and then freeze it to enjoy a taste of summer anytime you want. Whatever you do, don’t make my same mistake: Cook more eggplant, now and often!

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