Tag: California
‘Tinis and Weenies
Combining disparate items, bringing together high brow sensibility with low brow dishes, can yield unpredictable results. In the case of Tallboy in Oakland, CA, the output is downright marvelous. Though martinis and hotdogs may seem like odd bedfellows at first, and second, and perhaps even third glance, take a leap and try the pair together; you’ll get it with the first bite and sip.
Breaking it down to the base components, a classic Dirty Martini, served ice cold and with a strong saline undercurrent of olive juice, is an ideal foil to the hot, juicy, generously seasoned wiener. Both have hints of umami, simple and unvarnished, universally appealing and quite frankly (no pun intended), hard to mess up. Thankfully, at this dark and moody downtown lounge, they don’t.
From the acclaimed culinary duo Shane and Marie of former Lion Dance Cafe acclaim, you can expect a menu of bangers, which they easily deliver in a slim volume of approachable eats. Emphasizing the unexpected glizzy, everything is plant based (except for jello shots), offering an effortless gateway into meatless meals for otherwise unaware omnivores. Impossible dogs are at the base of each composition, convincingly spiced like the genuine article, further disguised by the battery of bold, inventive, if not downright whimsical toppings.
Soft, buttery, sesame-speckled buns cradle each savory creation. The Deli Dog appeals to classic sensibilities with a complete garden of pickled vegetables and a lavish drizzle of spicy brown mustard forming a tidy mountain on top. For more adventurous tastes, the Lion Dancing Dog is a must, as the namesake creation of this power couple. Sambal mayo sings alongside crisp cucumbers and crunchy fried shallots. Don’t discount the Cheese In The Trap, fusing funky fermented kimchi with gooey, slightly sticky American cheese. It’s a veritable and literal melting pot of flavors, as dog intended.
My personal favorite, which completely blindsided me, was the Chili Dog. A relative newcomer to the lineup, it’s a stunningly satisfying combination of new and old. Redolent of cumin, the chili is familiar yet novel, worthy of eating as a solo bowl. Thankfully, you also have the option of ordering a Frito Pie to do just that, which I’ll certainly take advantage of next time around. So rich and hearty, it doesn’t even need the optional cheese, despite the temptation to go all out. Unfancy and unbothered is the guiding ethos of this ballgame.
Don’t rush though the evening though; start slow, pretend you’re healthy at first and opt for a Wedge Salad that would be right at home in any upscale steakhouse. Delivering on the promise without deviation, you’ll get a solid slab of iceberg lettuce drenched in tangy blue cheese dressing and riddled with all manner of crunchy, bacony goodies. It’s perhaps the only fork and knife affair to be found, if you want to look more refined, for some inexplicable reason.
Otherwise, dive headfirst into the Potato Chips and Dip. Old school sour cream and onion has nothing on this cooling combo. The juxtaposition between crunchy, salty chips and creamy dip is far from groundbreaking, and it doesn’t need to be. It’s simply done right.
Another foolproof snack to balance out your booze is the Lion Dance Cafe Peanuts. A throwback to the original cafe creation, they sing with fiery chilies, makrut lime leaves, curry leaves, fresh lemongrass, and honestly, who knows what else. They’re famous for a reason, and that reason needn’t be fully explained to remain just as compelling.
On a budget or captive to more childlike cravings? You can always go in for The Classic hotdog, plain and simple, with optional mustard or ketchup, if your tastes skew in that direction. You can even order a straight up Nissin Stir Fry Cup Noodles for $4, so don’t say you can’t afford a night on the town. For the ambience, service and overall good vibes, that alone is worth the price of admission.
Feeling peckish but not quite ready to commit to a full dog? Feel free to avail yourself to endless free popcorn right around the bar, complete with nutritional yeast, seasoning salt, and ranch flavor shakers to sprinkle at will. Light and crunchy, always popped fresh throughout the night, it’s dangerously easy to keep munching and drinking for hours, which is exactly the point.
Martinis are highly recommended, with an expansive list of flavors and styles to chose from, though they are far from the only option. The entire cocktail program is robust, thoughtfully curated to appeal to every possible taste with a creative twist. Cocktails are equally well crafted for our sober friends who deserve more than a watered-down compromise.
Hot dogs and martinis are the new power couple. Like salt and pepper, peanut butter and jelly, coffee and cream, they belong together, no matter what anyone else says. It’s not that serious and a night on the town shouldn’t be either. Tallboy is the relief we need from being a straight-laced, responsibility-laden adult for just a minute, while still being able to imbibe like one.
Tallboy
4210 Telegraph Ave
Oakland, CA 94609
Wordless Wednesday: Phono Home
Paper Plane
Oyster Mushroom Calamari
Ceviche Tostadas
Peach Pit
Bolognese Spinach Lasagna
Strawberry Basil Pastelito
Phonobar x Om Sabor
370 Grove St.
San Francisco, CA 94102
Wordless Wednesday: Bet The Ranch
Wordless Wednesday: It All Starts With Art
Phono Input
As a rule, I try not to play favorites. Whether we’re talking about animals, flowers, or food, it’s impossible to crown a winner across the board. Different moods and situations call for different preferences. No one thing is ever perfect either. Some might excel at one thing but fall short in another. I say this specifically with restaurants and bars in mind, as I’m frequently asked to weigh in. That’s why I can’t say that Phonobar is my all-time favorite… It’s just that the competition would be tough with that near the top of my list.
Established in the heart of the Civic Center, it’s a true oasis in the city. Rarely can you walk into a sleek, polished bar and feel right at home, as if your glittery high heels had transformed into fuzzy slippers upon entry, though I can’t find any other way to describe the experience. Intimate and comfortable, romantic and seductive, fun and casual; any of these descriptors could fit the vibe. If you want to dance the night away, there’s a sweet lounge area with open space to groove, especially when a DJ or band comes to play. If you just want a chill happy hour, sidle up to the bar or park yourself in the covered outdoor booths on a balmy San Francisco evening.
If you know me, you know my focus is quickly diverted to the menu. This is where the party really starts. Om Sabor is in the kitchen, crafting their distinctive globally inspired fusion fair, leaning strongly into Mexican and Californian cuisine. There’s not a single dish that would disappoint, but I’d highly suggest going for the Enchiladas, stuffed with black beans, to get a taste of their masterful handle on spices, layered harmoniously into every bite.
Soups are ever-changing with the seasons, but if you’re fortunate enough to get French Onion Soup as an option, don’t even think twice: Place your order before you even take a seat. Deeply savory, buttery, and with a hint of natural sweetness, meltingly tender ribbons of caramelized onions swim under the cover of soft bread and gooey cheese, all slowly melting together into one comforting spoonful.
Teriyaki Skewers are one of the top sellers, which chef Luis easily sold me on after facing decision paralysis given the breadth of choices. Thank goodness he tipped the scale in favor of these delicately strung strata of chicken-like protein and vegetables. Deftly grilled to ensure crisp, gently seared edges, it’s a true feat to have everything, from mushrooms to peppers, zucchini to meat, cooked perfectly together, glistening under the greenhouse window panels lining the far wall.
Of course, you can’t leave without indulging in a cocktail or two, or three if you’ve got a ride home lined up. Of course, for nondrinkers, zero proof cocktails (AKA mocktails) are far from an afterthought; these drinks are just as carefully blended, infused, and shaken, so you’ll never end up with another glorified lemonade. You’d barely wait a minute even during the busiest of times; they have the process down to an art and a science.
My favorite cocktail of all time, the Paper Plane, isn’t in the printed menu, but all it took was a tentative request for the perfect blend of spirits to arrive at my table. Balance is the word I keep coming back to, describing how well each ingredient compliments one another, never speaking out of turn or stealing the show. That isn’t easy, especially in the more complex, original cocktails developed and only found here.
The seasonal Walking In The Rain is a must for warm summer nights. It’s genuinely refreshing, light and restorative, gently sweetened with vegan honey, and offset with herbaceous cucumber-infused bitters. Should the weather turn cold, when the fog rolls in and blankets the streets, a Hot Toddy will warm you from the inside out, soothing like a hug from a good friend. There’s something for everyone, to take the edge off a bad day or celebrate a good one.
The fact that it’s all plant-based honestly feels like an afterthought because it’s such a natural fit. No one is going out of their way to force it into a box or cater to a specific crowd. It’s just unassailable food and drinks, in a thoughtfully curated space, that happens to be entirely inclusive on all levels. If you don’t go to Phonobar every chance you get, you have no right complaining about a bad trip. It’s a must stop for me every time I’m in town now, and the kind of place I miss when I’m gone.
So, while I don’t want to call it my favorite… I can’t think of another place that even comes close.