Stick To It

As much as I love edamame, I’m loathe to order them at a restaurant. They have to be something really special, perhaps charred with a smoky kiss from the wok, anointed with enough garlic to ruin any date, to merit real consideration. The fact of the matter is that in most cases, they’re merely the same green pods anyone could grab from the freezer, barely thawed enough to melt the ice crystals, and seasoned either with too much or too little salt; there’s never any middle ground.

Edamame, though admittedly perfect beer snacks as is, deserve so much more care. The bar is so low that the bare minimum of creativity hooks me like a hapless, hungry fish. “Edamame Sticks” did the trick, in just that one line. It was printed on a menu online with no further description, and no means of ordering, but when has that ever stopped me before?

Wrapped up in a thin sheath of wheat-based egg roll skin, chopped edamame are granted the thoughtful application of spices and aromatics that quick serves can never afford. Far from groundbreaking, the complement of garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil are simply playing the hits that the crowd most wants to hear. Once fried, bubbling surface of the wrappers bronzed and resoundingly crisp, no one could deny these beans.

The only problem with edamame is when they’re served as a placeholder, something to keep your hands busy while you wait for anything better. Given even a modest intervention, sealed, spiced, and sent through hot oil, they snap out of their stupor. Apparently this is still too much to ask of restaurants sending out plain pods at exorbitant prices, but at least we have all the tools at our disposal to do better at home.

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Trash Talk

Sometimes you just feel like hot garbage. Other times, you feel like eating hot garbage.

Wait, stay with me here!

Good Garbage

Though I’ve long been an outspoken proponent of eating trash, salvaging scraps and otherwise wasted food, I’m talking about something else entirely here. “Garbage” is a term used more liberally in this case, as a flippant descriptor of such an unapologetically messy, overloaded pile of fried potatoes. Not every meal needs to be gorgeous to have instant appeal. It’s perfect for when comfort food cravings become increasingly urgent, overriding any concerns about sticky fingers or hot sauce stains.

My hot garbage fries were inspired by the silly little plastic trash can vessel, to be perfectly honest, but probably work even better on a plate. Every crispy plank of fluffy fried potato should be saturated with the mess on top; a creamy, spicy sauce, meatless steak, crunchy onions, and sliced jalapeños for a final fiery bite. The combination is so simple, so obvious, that it feels redundant to write out a full recipe… And yet, it does serve as a helpful reminder that yes, it is precisely that simple and obvious.

Make Your Own Mess

Use this blueprint to build your own French fry dumpster fire upon. A few quick and easy swaps include:

  • Vegan Steak: As a luxury item, this isn’t one I often have on hand either. Any beef-like plant-based protein works beautifully (or sloppily?) here, such as crumbled veggie burgers, chopped seitan, meatless grounds, or even old fashioned TVP chunks.
  • Yellow Onion: Some people don’t appreciate the raw edge of an uncooked onion, and while they’re wrong, that’s okay. Use sliced scallions or chives for the same allium essence, minus the harsh sinus stinging.
  • Cilantro: Similarly, some poor souls process the flavor of cilantro as being akin to soap. My condolences. Either omit it or try using fresh basil for a flavorful change of pace.
  • Jalapeños: If you want to really pump up the heat, opt for peppers that fall high on the Scoville scale, such as serranos, habaneros, or scotch bonnets. Proceed with caution!

Trash is Cash

Next time you’re having a trashy day, don’t fight it. Lean into the hot mess with an equally chaotic, disorderly, and satisfyingly sloppy pile of hot garbage fries. If it’s so bad that you need a good cry, you can always blame the hot peppers, too.

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Spring For Spices

You’d think that with the word “spring” right in the name, spring rolls would be seasonal, yet we don’t even have a consensus on whether they should be fresh or fried, let alone what goes inside. Morphing and evolving over time through the hands of countless cooks, their resistance to definition is a testament to their versatility. With such effortless adaptability, who says we can’t mix things up and throw some potato in there? And what if it happens to be seasoned like a samosa? The Indian pastry itself isn’t all that different when you think about it.

Springing Up Everywhere

The term “spring roll” likely originates from the traditional Chinese practice of making these rolls during the spring festival, AKA Lunar New Year, as a celebratory snack. Simply by virtue of using fresh vegetables, any vegetables at all, they represent the idea of a fresh, new start. Seasonal ingredients typically harvested in the spring may or may not apply.

Indo-Chinese Fusion

Strip away the deep fried dough of conventional potato samosa to bring that highly spiced and aromatic filling to the fore. Encased in translucent rice paper, unburdened by heavy pastry and excess oil, it’s a lighter bite that really could put a spring in your step. It’s not the crispy crunch you might expect, but instead a soft, slightly chewy wrapping that lets the aromatic spices shine.

Let’s Wrap This Up

Besides the obvious benefits for anyone with a fear of frying, using rice paper makes these rolls far quicker and easier to assemble than conventional samosas. Plus, they’re automatically gluten-free for a more inclusive savory treat. As a packable lunch option or picnic party starter, you can’t beat that convenience. Factor in the cool, refreshing, and invigorating tamarind-mint chutney for dipping, and you’ve got a crowd-pleasing hit that’s as satisfying as it is boldly flavorful.

At its core, a spring roll is anything you want it to be, wrapped up in a cloak of gossamer rice paper. Despite the seasonal implications of such a name, they’re truly timeless. Unbound by traditional implications, the modern spring roll is a reflection of global inspiration. Golden spiced samosa filling is only a small taste of what’s possible when you start rolling.

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Choke Artist

Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.

What’s In A Name?

When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.

Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen

With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.

  1. Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
  2. Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
  3. Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
  4. Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
  5. Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
  6. Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
  7. Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.

One Killer App

Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.

The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.

Culinary Renaissance

Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.

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Keep On Kibbeh On

Diving into a plate of homemade kibbeh, still hot enough to scald both your fingers and mouth as you steal the first bite, and still so impossibly delicious that it’s worth the pain, is a singular experience to aspire to. It’s been on my recipe wish list for a decade, maybe two, punted in favor of less daunting dishes. At long last, I can say that while it’s not a quick fix meal to whip up on an average weeknight, it’s well within reach, and well worth taking the plunge.

What Are Kibbeh?

The word kibbeh stems from an Arabic verb كَبَّبَ (kabbaba), meaning “to form into a ball” or a circular shape. Kibbeh is considered a revered national dish of Syria and Lebanon, held in high esteem and fiercely protected. The essential ingredients for any form of kibbeh are bulgur wheat, spices, and ground meat. Traditionally, that meat would be in the form of lamb, beef, or goat, but plant-based variations abound. My recipe combines potatoes for binding power, chickpeas for protein, and Sugimoto Shiitake for umami to create the ideal balance of texture, nutrition, and flavor.

Sugimoto Shiitake are my favorite substitute for ground beef. You can mince the whole mushroom or just the stem for a thrifty fix that packs a huge punch of flavor. The toothsome chew stands on its own as an authentically meaty sensation, or enhances any range of alternative proteins to those same lofty standards. Coarsely mashed chickpeas, crisp pine nuts, caramelized onions, and a dazzling array of spices join forces for an unforgettable taste sensation.

Hashweh in Arabic means “filling” or “stuffing,” which is how I refer to this umami mixture. However, in common parlance, it’s come to refer to a one-pot rice dish, not unlike a meaty pilaf. You could very happily use it to stuff other vegetables, like peppers or cabbage, or serve like a side dish as is.

Kaleidoscopic Kibbeh

Kibbeh isn’t just one dish. At last count, there’s roughly 70 distinctive variations found across the Middle East. Between regional variations, family tradition, and personal preferences, no two recipes are ever the same. Some of the most common types include:

  • Kibbeh Nayyeh is served completely raw, fully incorporating the meat with the wheat, like a finely ground steak tartare.
  • Kibbeh Bil Sanieh bakes the components together as two layers in a shallow dish.
  • Kibbeh Labanieh takes fried kibbeh balls and drowns them in a thick yogurt sauce.
  • Arras Kibbeh is what we’re making today: football-shaped, stuffed, and deep-fried kibbeh.

Popular Pairings

Is it a main dish or a mezze? That’s a trick question; it’s both! Get the party started by serving hot or room temperature kibbeh alongside tahini sauce, hummus, or tzatziki for dipping. Create a full dinner spread by pairing them with tabbouleh, shirazi salad, pita bread, grilled or roasted vegetables, or red lentil soup. Of course, you can easily make a one-bowl meal by topping salad or rice with all your favorite fixings and freshly fried kibbeh.

Prep For Success

There’s no way around it: making kibbeh from scratch can be an all-day affair. The first attempt may be messy or unshapely, but I promise you, every bit as gratifying in the end. Make the process easier by planning ahead:

  1. Enlist help from friends or family when it comes to stuffing to make the process both quicker and more enjoyable.
  2. Prepare one or both of the components in advance and store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days.
  3. Uncooked kibbeh freezes well, as does fully fried, leftover kibbeh, allowing you to enjoy it whenever the craving strikes.

Fear Of Frying?

Deep frying isn’t a regular activity around here, given the mess, potential hazards, and health implications, so I understand the hesitation. However, if there’s one recipe that I’d implore you to embrace that bubbling vat of oil, (though not literally, please!) it’s this one. No other method will create that perfectly crispy, golden brown shell that encloses a moist, meaty center. That said, I don’t want to dissuade you from trying other methods if that’s the only way to go. Your best bets are:

  • Baking: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and bake in an oven preheated to 400 degrees for 25 – 30 minutes, flipping halfway through.
  • Air frying: Spray or brush the kibbeh with oil and air fry at 370 degrees for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket every 5 minutes or so.
  • Pan frying: Set a nonstick skillet over medium heat, coat the bottom with 1 tablespoon of oil, then add 10 – 12 kibbeh at a time, making sure the pan is not too crowded. Cook for 8 – 10 minutes, turning on each side until evenly browned. Repeat with the remaining kibbeh.

Making kibbeh is truly an art that takes time and practice to get right. Fortunately, imperfect kibbeh is equally delicious, so your efforts will always be rewarded.

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