Nybll and Nosh

Food delivery is not only the way of the future, it’s the way of survival, now. Critical on both sides of that equation, consumers and producers alike thrash about in uncharted waters as the tides continue to turn. Safer than risking exposure from shopping and schlepping, getting food direct to doorsteps could save us amidst quarantine constraints. If only it was all so simple, though. Grocery stores are overwhelmed by demand, local chefs can barely keep the lights on, and third party couriers are throttled by ineffective apps. No one was prepared for this abrupt sea change.

Some, however, are nimble enough to raise the sails and correct course at the first sign of trouble. In this case, they’re actually Nybll.

Previously serving corporate clients for in-office catering, “business as usual” was anything but, when work from home orders shut down previously thriving hubs. Quickly shifting gears to reach workers where they live, the focus on individual distribution opened up accessibility to all hungry, home-bound clients.

Spearheaded by Chef Kristen Thibeault, previously head of Kombu Kitchen in San Francisco, considered one of the pioneers of the modern plant-based food movement. Blending world cuisines with ayurvedic, paleo, and macrobiotic tenets, over 150 locally sourced menus reflect a passion for flavor fidelity with nutritionally dense ingredients.

Every bundle of 5, 10, or 20 weekly meals come fully loaded with a vegan option for every entree. Add-ons like soups, salads, and even fresh produce and pantry boxes make this an invaluable resource for one-stop grocery shopping. Prepared dishes arrive individually packed so you can just heat and eat. Easily outshining any comparable complete frozen dinner, it’s the closest the average person will likely come to having their own personal chef.

Larger portions, extra proteins, and side dishes can be added to accommodate all appetites. Soup and salad can help round out any menu, or join forces for a light yet satisfying meal by themselves. This week, Mixed Greens + Beet Salad made it easy to get my greens in, especially when drizzled with a ranch-style dressing flecked with fresh dill. Soulful Tomato Bisque, luxuriously rich and thick, was a shining example of what all dairy-free cream soups should aspire to. Basil, white wine, garlic, and onion meld seamlessly in this downright buttery blend.

Skillfully etched with the flawless char of hot steel, the Lemon Herb Grilled Tofu dazzles with pungent garlic butter saturating its porous surface. Ample portions of Confetti Quinoa + Garlic Sauteed Kale support the starring protein with surprising depth.

It’s tough picking favorites, but the gentle sweetness of the Candied Tempeh, paired with tender Herbed Brown Rice with Garbanzo Beans + Roasted Carrots easily elevated this meal to the top rank. Understated, simple flavors blossom with the gentle touch of a professional, bolstered by the vibrancy of fresh high-quality ingredients.

Injecting a bold touch of intrigue into the mix, the Vegan Meatballs + Roasted Sweet Potatoes defies easy explanation. Coated in a creamy, saffron-spiked sauce, hearty meatless rounds tumble among bites of fennel and skin-on chunks of everyone’s favorite orange tuber. Paired with Grilled Zucchini + Harissa Cauliflower, it’s a spicy, invigorating combination unlike anything else you might be able to order for takeout.

Evoking happy memories of summer picnics, Loaded Vegan Pasta Salad really hit the spot on these unseasonably warm days. Sun-kissed tomatoes drape themselves seductively around penne pasta, broccoli florets, and strips of red bell pepper. For someone craving a taste of the great outdoors, this really nails the experience in a safe, sanitary package to enjoy at home.

It takes a lot for me to get excited about a kale salad, but the Caribbean Superfood Salad + Jerk Mushrooms does just that. Zesty orange dressing brightens the crisp leaves, interspersed with coconut flakes and shredded carrot. A smashed plantain patty adds substance with style, while the slightly spicy, sweet, and smoky cremini are the crowning jewels on this tropical regalia.

Nybll currently serves Los Angeles and the San Francisco Bay Area. If your zip code falls within that range, do yourself the kindness of placing an order. Skip the usual takeout fare, give yourself a break from cooking duties, and enjoy the peace of mind knowing that shortages won’t deplete your pantry. Now THAT is true comfort food.

Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments

Fee, Fi, Fo, Fonio

Move over, quinoa; there’s a new ancient grain in town. Protein-rich, gluten-free, and quick-cooking, fonio is the best kept secret in wholesome superfoods. Though little known in the western world, this African staple has all the makings of the next big healthy craze.

Neutral yet subtly nutty in flavor like good old brown rice, fluffy like fresh couscous, and faster to whip up than a pot of pasta, the only barrier to mainstream adoration is distribution. Though the supply chain is especially stressed by the current pandemic, fonio has long suffered from inaccessibility. No one’s out there flying the fonio flag, demanding more, so most consumers and home cooks simply don’t know what they’re missing. They say ignorance is bliss, but this is more akin to an act of negligence, cruel and careless.

Uses for fonio know no limits. Receptive to marinades and sauces the world over, it thirstily drinks in the flavors of a stew while retaining toothsome tenderness. Use it cold in salad; serve it hot as a side; form it into patties and pan fry; blend it into batters, cakes, and cookies; don’t even bother cooking it, and use it instead of breadcrumbs; the only way you can do fonio wrong is to keep it off the menu.

For basic cookery, all you need is 1 part fonio to 2 parts boiling water. Combine and let rest for about 5 minutes, fluff with a fork, and enjoy. You don’t need a stove, a microwave, or even electricity; it’s really that simple. Your hard work will be rewarded with a nutritional dynamo, rich in B-vitamins, iron, and calcium.

That said, there’s no need to stick with the bare basics, of course.

Golden grains spring to life with savory aromatics and a touch of spice. It’s the kind of side dish that could very well steal the show, and considering the protein quotient, which is bolstered by tender chickpeas, it’s not a stretch to call it a one-pot meal all by itself. Kernels of corn enhance the sunny yellow appearance, but a bit of contrast would be a nice option, be it from green peas, red bell peppers, or even dark, chewy raisins.

Oh, little fonio, this is just the start. There are big things in store for this tiny grain. Just wait until the rest of the world catches on. Quinoa had better watch its back.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)29 Comments

On Everyone’s Lips

Do you eat food? Then boy howdy, do I have a book for you. Yes, that’s certainly painting with a broad brush, but Laura Theodore’s Vegan for Everyone really is a cookbook built to accommodate each and every eater out there, no matter age, location, tastes, and time constraints.

This is the essential reference built of simple staple recipes to get you started or keep you going on a plant-based path, transforming everyday ingredients into remarkable meals. No experience necessary, because these formulas are built upon basic cooking skills, even easy enough for a toddler to mash together in some cases. At a time when ingredients can be limited and patience is wearing thin, such instant gratification is a true comfort to revel in.

Visually inspiring from cover to cover, there’s a mouthwatering photo accompanying almost all of the 160 recipes within. Beyond the food itself, there’s a real wealth of information for new vegans or reluctant cooks. Get detailed shopping lists to build out a plant-based pantry, organizational advice to keep your spice rack in order, and get educated on nutritional needs, all in place.

Starting bright and early with breakfasts worth waking up for, the promise of Coconut Chocolate Chip Muffins (page 46) certainly gave me something to look forward to on a few very dreary mornings. Effortless to throw together, just as promised, the tender crumb cradled just the right ratio of decadent chocolate chunks to toothsome coconut shreds. Amazingly moist yet low in fat, I was honestly stunned by the texture, considering there was no added oil. Balancing out healthy impulses and more indulgent cravings, these are a great option to prepare in advance to grab and go.

Eggs are off the menu of course, but you’d never know it by one bit of the Vegan Egg Salad for Everyone (page 140.) Sunny yellow tofu is mashed into creamy submission with the very same salty, savory comfort that defines the classic hard-boiled rendition. Granted, I had to substitute capers for the prescribed green olives based on grocery shortages, but the flavor didn’t seem to suffer one bit. Sandwiched between two hearty slices of homemade molasses wheat bread, lunch was served in about 5 minutes flat.

Simmer down and get cozy, because the Red Lentil-Potato Curry Soup (page 132) is like a warm blanket wrapping your entire body with soothing energy. Thickened by legumes alone, each spoonful has real body and soul. I did double down on the curry powder to get the spice just right, but that easy adaptability is part of its beauty. Season to taste to suit any palate, whether you keep it mild for the kids or wild for the hot-blooded chili lovers among us.

Cold peanut noodles are already a lightning-fast staple for eating on the run, but if you can believe it, the Peanut-y Carrot “Noodles” (page 186) are even faster than conventional approaches. By swapping out spiralized carrots for starchy pasta, you don’t even have to cook these vegetable strands to make them delicious. Better yet, they lighten the dish considerably, meaning you can slather on extra peanut sauce without a second thought.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)17 Comments

Deep Roots

All successful restaurants are the product of passion, innovation, and fearless vision, but in the case of Bloodroot in Bridgeport, CT, it was radical feminism that came before the food. Founded over 40 years ago, Selma Miriam and Noel Furie made a statement by planting this seed of rebellion before such progressive concepts hit mainstream awareness. Part bookstore, part community center, the menu is as diverse as the people drawn to this vegetarian bastion.

Established right by the water’s edge in a residential neighborhood, small sailboats bob just beyond the grassy parking lot. You’d be forgiven for thinking you walked into someone’s home by accident, but that comforting vibe is entirely intentional. Fluffy cats laze around on bookshelves alongside obscure texts, purring contentedly in the quiet moments between the clanging of pots and pans.

Offering refuge along with solidarity and nourishment alike, the unconventional business model is one that shouldn’t work on paper, and yet, Bloodroot remains firmly established, feeding the masses with an ever-evolving bill of fare that reflects seasonal and local produce.

Famous for their soups, “Tightwad Tuesday” is a favorite incentive for a midweek visit, when a generous bowlful is ladled out with a side of salad and a hearty chunk of their homemade breads, chewy loaves dotted with seeds and whole grains, at an affordable price. Escarole & Garlic, Lima Bean with Lemon & Parsley, Tomato & Fennel, among many others, never fail to soothe the soul.

Worldly inspirations color the eclectic assortment of dinner options, such as meatless Jerk Chicken with Coconut Rice, Mexican Mole, and Grilled Greens-stuffed Tofu Pockets, just for starters. The flavors bring a taste of the world to any table, but the ladies keep no secrets to their success. Literally an open book, all the recipes are detailed in their numerous cookbooks, and sharing is explicitly encouraged. That openness and generosity is the true key to Bloodroot‘s success; it takes a village to support such an unconventional business, just like bold objectives it seeks to achieve. Here, enjoy a side of acceptance with a drizzle of equality, right next to your Szechuan Peanut-Sesame Noodles.

Hannah (BitterSweet)10 Comments