Review Rant

Having become the center of great scrutiny and controversy lately, it’s due time that I address the nature of my product reviews if they’re to continue any longer. Countless bloggers approach the same subject in countless different ways, so I can only speak for myself here, but a lot more goes into such a seemingly simple post than many people realize.

While it’s certainly nice to get new products and samples at no charge, it often costs way more than one little meal, snack, or even bite is worth when all is said and done. Factor in expenses like photography props, backgrounds, garnishes, and additional ingredients if cooking with the item or writing a recipe to use it in. Not to mention, the cost of time, which is quite frankly a very large check to write.

I’m not just snapping one photo, snarfing down some food, and cranking out a few half-digested sentences. Multiple tastings, on multiple occasions, are the norm. I take these reviews very seriously, and want to give every item a fair and unbiased palate. Perhaps something tastes better cold than it did hot; Maybe my taste buds were skewed because I just ate something with a lot of acid beforehand; What if it simply gets better with age? How terrible would it be for me to write off a fantastic new product just because I served it the wrong way? All through this journey, many notes are taken to preserve all of the details.

Then, there are the usual posting requirements- Processing, editing, and uploading photos, fleshing out those notes into comprehensive and perhaps even witty sentences if I get really lucky, formatting the text and adding links. No, not an overwhelming task at all, but it does take time.

And here’s what gets to me: When companies get pushy and start out-and-out harassing me because it’s been two weeks since they sent out their latest and greatest [fill in the blank] and they still haven’t seen it on the blog. In all likelihood, I loved it! But the sheer volume of review requests and subsequent backlog that I’ve accumulated prevents me from providing a speedy turnaround. Besides that, I don’t want to clog these cozy pages with nothing but one running advertisement; BitterSweet is so much more than a review blog. I really do prefer to focus on recipes and crafts, with just an occasional review thrown in. Besides, I’m more about making what you can, rather than buying it in the first place!

Frequently, I considered eliminating product reviews entirely, but at the end of the day, I really do want to share some of my favorite treats, give recommendations to those who might be hesitant of trying new things otherwise, and supporting small companies that you might have otherwise never heard about. Bottom line is, I do it because I love it, and I would continue writing reviews whether the food was handed to me on a silver platter or I bought it at full price just like everyone else. I just wish that everyone could understand that at the end of the day, it’s never actually free.

Cookies: Mother Knows Best

Welcome to BitterSweet’s very first guest post! Why me? As an experienced baker, editor, and Hannah’s mother, I have certain special qualifications, and Hannah has graciously decided to share the kitchen and invited me to review the new cookbook by Isa Moskowitz and Terry Romero, Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar. So here goes…

I began by reading VCIYCJ carefully. The first section, “Cookie Science,” explains the whats, whys and hows of making great cookies. The recipes are grouped mostly by technique (drop, bar, etc) and most have eye-catching full-color photos, although I was occasionally confused by the repeated placement of photos for the Snickerdoodle and Rocky Road Cookies. I decided to try a Drop Cookie, a Wholesome Cookie and a Sliced and Rolled Cookie.

First, I made the Chocolate Chip Cookies. Having baked the traditional, non-vegan variety all my life and having eaten many of Hannah’s exceptional examples, I know a good chocolate chip cookie when I eat one. These cookies had a great texture – light, chewy but with a bit of resistance around the edges. The flavor, however, was bland. More brown sugar and less white would make these cookies even better.

Next, I tried the Fruity Oaty Bars. Assembling all the ingredients was a bit of a challenge and fairly pricy, but the resulting bars make an excellent breakfast option. The sesame flavor was a nice touch, and the variety of ingredients made each mouthful taste slightly different. The bars were a bit drier than I expected, considering all the dried fruit, but a little jam or peanut butter on top made a big difference. I really enjoyed eating these.

Finally, I chose the Coffeehouse Hermits. Expecting a pliable dough, I ended up with a moist batter, so I added an extra cup of flour and put it in the fridge to chill. Even after an extra hour, I still had a batter, not a dough, so I poured it into two loaf pans and produced very pleasant gingerbreads. After wards, Hannah discovered a correction posted online for this recipe – I should have used ½ cup, not 2 cups, of coffee. I didn’t end up with Hermits, but the gingerbread was delicious.

Overall, I enjoyed this challenge. These recipes are easy to follow and produce tasty treats. VCIYCJ is a good resource for beginning bakers, but I can’t say it stands out in the ever-expanding world of vegan dessert cookbooks. One cookbook in particular comes to my mind as the very best for vegan desserts, but since I know its author, you might question my objectivity, so I won’t mention it.

Thanks, Hannah, for taking the photos and sharing your blog with me. One final thought: the views expressed in this post are entirely mine, so don’t bother Hannah if you don’t agree. Happy New Year to everyone, and Happy Baking!

Dreaming of a White [Marshmallow for] Christmas

In case the demands of creating and handing out immense batches of peanut brittle are beginning to cause more stress than joy, fear not, there are alternatives to ensure your loved ones have a sweet holiday nonetheless. Although there truly are tons of unique, artisanal vegan candies to choose from, each easily ordered online and delivered to your door, there is one in particular that I’d like to suggest. One company, which has such outstanding customer service that when emailed, always responds within a day, and has always delivered my orders just two days after I place them, at the latest. One company, which I fear may secretly own my soul, and has the most addictively delicious product that I ordered 5 pounds of it to “bake with,” and have instead taken the opportunity to eat an embarrassing amount so far. You may have seen this coming a million miles away by now, but this company is Sweet and Sara.

Their everyday offerings are worthy of a special occasion, or just a simple indulgence. Recently having added Strawberry and Cinnamon Pecan marshmallows to their classic lineup of Vanilla and Toasted Coconut, these are mallows that would please the most discerning palate. A fresh but subtle strawberry flavor accompanies the pale pink mallow of its namesake, amazingly not the least bit artificial tasting, as such a candy could easily become. The cinnamon pecan option may be my new favor though- Topped off with large pieces of fresh, toasty pecans coated in sugar and spice, with just the perfect hit of salt, that textural contrast really perks up the whole piece and allows the flavors to pop. Redolent with warm cinnamon flavor throughout, these are always the first to go when I order a combo pack.

But don’t forget about those infamous s’mores! Available in both Vanilla and Peanut Butter, each towering treat is perched upon a thick, crumbly graham cookie and smothered with a thin shell of intense dark chocolate. Though both flavors present a pure white marshmallow inside, the peanut butter is not shy when it comes to announcing its flavor. So sweet, rich, and delicious, I would highly recommend cutting each s’more in half before you even take a bite, lest you be tempted to eat the whole hulking dessert in one sitting.

In case that mere covering of chocolate wasn’t enough for you, then I have just the thing to satisfy your inner chocoholic- The Rocky Road Bark. Thick slabs of mallows and almonds encased in a heavy armor of robust, slightly bitter chocolate, this isn’t for your fair weather chocolate friends. Impeccably fresh, the toasted almonds still manage to let their presence be known through that blanket of cacao, and lend a much needed crunch to this creamy, melting concoction.

Even better, for those of you missing Christmas-shaped peeps and in need of a bit more holiday spirit than the average square can provide, Sweet and Sara is now offering snowman, angel, and reindeer mallows for a limited time. Every bit as incredible as their sweet Halloween ghosts, these adorable confections would make a perfect stocking stuffer for the sweet-toothed vegan in your life… Or a little gift you could give to yourself, too. These large mallows just have so much Christmas cheer, I dare you to look at them and not smile. As you can see, my reindeer was so excited to celebrate the holiday season, he couldn’t wait until I finished the photo shoot before he took a dip in my hot cocoa!

If all that doesn’t convince you to order some mallows, right this very minute, may I remind you that Sweet and Sara is now offering a 15% discount for the holiday season if you order directly through them? Consider those last tricky gifts taken care of.

Pressing Matters

Like many vegetarians and vegans, tofu and I have a very close relationship, one that’s been going strong for as long as I can remember. Even when I subsisted on a diet of ramen and hot dogs as a child, I would eat big platefuls of Sichuan tofu at Chinese restaurants with gusto, unaware that my choice was actually relatively healthy. A stir-fry staple and base for countless desserts, there is always at least one brick of soybean curd around the house, if not closer to ten or eleven.

Thanks to increasing mainstream acceptance  of tofu as an actual edible food substance, there’s a plethora of recipes using it now, and it would seem as every possible avenue has been explored, tofu baked, fried, and sauteed; stuffed, encrusted, and marinated; pureed, mashed, and otherwise annihilated into particles so tiny that not even the most discerning toddler’s palate could pick them out. But there is still one sticking point that prevents all approaches to this beany delight from being successful- All that water stored up in each brick tends to come out at all the wrong times, preventing that perfect sear on the sides, or blocking a marinade from the center of even the smallest cubes. One could easily press tofu between paper towels and two plates, as my family has for generations (or at least, that’s how my mom always taught me,) but for those who love gadgets and added convenience, I have found just the thing: The TofuXpress.

Before anyone gets up in arms over what a miserable uni-tasker this compact tool is, just you look here- It’s great for more than just tofu. Think pressed salads, drained frozen spinach, and anything else that needs a bit of weight to set up properly. Of course, designed primarily for the purpose of squishing the water out of tofu, this is what it absolutely excels at. After just an hour in the press, my brick of extra-firm tofu was nearly half the size as when it came out of the package. Giving it another hour just to see the effects, it reduced even further to about a third of its original height.

Side by side comparison of an unpressed block of tofu (left) and one that’s been in the TofuXpress for 2+ hours (right.)

Now that’s much flatter than I could ever dream of getting one of these things with just two plates. Compacted, the texture is unlike any other tofu readily available, dense, chewy, and nearly creamy in the center. Perfect for imitating feta, it just needs a quick marinade- which can neatly be poured right into the TofuXpress and then sealed with the included lid- and you have a truly unique salad topper. This is one fun kitchen accessory that I know will get endless use around here. And pssst, it may be the perfect holiday gift to get for the vegan cook that has everything, in case you were at a loss for ideas.

So, do tell, what pressed tofu dish are you dreaming of?

[Written for Go Dairy Free]

One Sweet Free-For-All

Homemade holiday gifts are always foremost in my mind as we prepare to enter into December, and a solid plan of attack is a must for optimal organization. The question is always what to make, and what would everyone on my list enjoy most, but it’s never up for debate that these gifts are to be edible, and most definitely sweet. Beyond just picking out the perfect cookies or quick bread though, the hardest part of picking out the perfect treats is finding those that would suit the friends with nut-allergies, or loved ones that are gluten-free. Hardest of all though, is accommodating those with a low tolerance for sugar, but still have a discerning sweet tooth.

Well, it may sound too good to be true, but I just found the answer to all my holiday gift troubles in one convenient package: Sweet Freedom, by Ricki Heller.

Not only does this lovingly compiled cookbook cover all the bases from breakfast delights to elaborate cakes and pies, but every last recipe is specifically labeled for allergens, and makes use of natural sweeteners. Ricki is all about eating consciously and with compassion, and you can practically taste the care that went into formulating every last treat in this book.

Scoping out my options for holiday gifts, I hit the cookie section first, and knew immediately that the Ultra Fudgy Brownies had to be on my list. Now, bear in mind that I’m very picky about my brownies, but these still made the cut! Though somewhat flat, each thin square packed in so much intense chocolate flavor with the perfect amount of chew, they were pretty darn close to brownie perfection. No one would have guessed that they were made of barley and spelt flour, and my family proved that point; the whole batch disappeared within a day or two! A definite keeper, for the holidays or just any old day.

Seeking out something simple that could appease the less chocolate-crazed on my list, the Classic Peanut Butter Cookies were calling my name. Simple enough to whip together in minutes, such a quick and easy recipe would definitely be handy when it comes time for the Christmas crush. And let me tell you, these satisfy not just a craving for sweets, but are very modestly sweetened with agave, so I was tempted to call 3 or 4 of them a balanced breakfast! With an addictive hit of salt bringing out the high, fresh notes of peanut, I was glad that I made my cookies rather small, because I didn’t feel so badly about eating a handful of them at a time!

Thinking more towards little morsels and candies, I was thrilled to see Ricki’s recipe for Marbled Halva, a treat I haven’t had in ages. Subtracting the marble and adding a good handful of pistachios instead, each square gem was striking in color and would have fit well in a beautiful cellophane bag. Admittedly, I made these a while ago and don’t remember too much beyond how intensely sesame-y they tasted, and that they had a nice soft chew… But I do know that they sure didn’t last long, even with only me eating them.

Veering off track from my holiday gift mission, I just couldn’t resist the siren song of the Banana Chocolate Chip Mini-Loaves / Muffins. The ideal use for overripe bananas in my eyes, these didn’t disappoint. Each muffin held just enough chocolate to accent the fruity baked good, without overwhelming it and turning it into more of a dessert. A fine, moist crumb created by a no-fuss batter exceeded expectations, and was far lighter than so many other brick-like vegan banana muffins. In hindsight, this one may not be such a bad choice as a gift, too!

While I wish I could go through and make every single recipe from Sweet Freedom just to “test” which might be best for my holiday cookie platters and any other sweet presents, I have a strong feeling that every last one of them are winners. But if you don’t want to take my word for it, just try out one of the many free recipes on Ricki’s blog. It will definitely be one sweet holiday with this book in tow, and the best part is, you won’t have to feel bad about indulging a little- Or a lot!

Lighten Up

Ever since brewing up my very first cup of mud so many years ago as a wee preteen, using my little pink Hello Kitty coffee maker and all, I’ve been a strictly black coffee kind of gal. No sugar, no cream, thank you very much. Simply a means of getting a quick caffeine pick me up, it’s always been a no-frills affair. However, you’ll rarely be able to poke around in my fridge without finding at least one pint of creamer chilling out. An incredibly useful ingredient, it often finds its way into baked goods and desserts of all varieties, adding richness and sweetness like no other vegan alternative. Up until recently though, that creamer was always soy-based, as there were simply no other options out there.

You’ve probably already guessed it, but this looks like another job for coconut! Matching the standard trio of flavored soy creamers, Turtle Mountain has now leveled the field with another reason for soy-avoiding vegans to be delighted.

Trying for get a basic understanding of the product to begin with, I naturally chose the Original (plain) variety to sample first. Surprisingly less sweet than expected, and very neutral in flavor, it would make for a completely inoffensive addition to coffee indeed. Agreeable enough to pair well with any flavored coffee, it would also happily blend into the background of any baked good, just as you might hope for from standard dairy cream. In fact, I’m willing to bet that dairy-drinkers would welcome this creamer in their cup of joe, too. Despite its subtlety, there’s not a hint of coconut flavor- A truly impressive feat in my book.

Stepping it up a notch with the French Vanilla, it’s immediately apparent that this one is sweeter. In fact, it was sweet enough that when sampled with coffee, it would be overkill to add in any sugar along with it. Perfectly suited for making fancy lattes if one so desired, its light, floral vanilla essence adds volumes of flavor. Easily my top pick of the group, this one convinced me that there may be merit in coffees lightened with creamer yet.

Now fighting a mean coffee buzz, it seemed time to put away the brew and pull out the ice cream machine instead. By far my favorite use for creamer, it was only a matter of minutes before the Hazelnut coconut creamer was whipped into an ice cream base with a touch of vanilla bean paste, and then was churning away. Anxious to have a taste right away, I served it straight out of the machine like soft serve, and oh, what a treat it was. Ultra smooth and creamy, it was unbelievable that such a simple concoction could be so good. Though it has the vague aroma of almond extract, it is easily distinguishable on the tongue, with more complex nuances than almond. Happily, it’s not the least bit bitter, as some hazelnut-infused foods can be.

Score yet another one for the mighty coconut! I for one can’t even imagine what it may turn up in next.

[Written for Go Dairy Free]