Category: Food
No Shito, Sherlock
Shito is unlike any other peppery potion on the planet. I want to say I developed a mild obsession with this Ghanian staple after editing and photographing one particularly inspiring article for Vegan Journal, but there’s nothing mild about it. While blisteringly hot habaneros are usually near the upper limit of my heat tolerance, when blended with sweet caramelized onions and robust tomatoes, their firepower is utterly transformed. It may still leave you gulping down water, but wanting more nonetheless.
What Is Shito?
“Shito” comes from the Ga language and is short for “shitor din,” which literally means “black pepper,” alluding to the dark color the paste takes on after cooking low and slow. The heat level can be calibrated to taste, unique to each individual cook, ranging from medium-hot to an edible inferno. Exact components and proportions vary by region and household, but common uniting factors include chilies, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and oil. Traditionally, dried fish and/or shrimp is the key to unlocking its distinctive body and richness, earthiness and umami. That may sound like a tough thing to emulate through vegan means, but when you have Sugimoto shiitake powder on deck, it’s as easy as opening a bag.
Shii-to (AKA, Shiitake Shito)
One unexpected benefit of using Sugimoto shiitake powder instead of dried seafood, or even simply ground, dried mushrooms, is that the incredibly fine powder absorbs more liquid, creating a thicker, more substantial sauce. Though it still separates as it sits, it’s much easier to use as part of a bold dip or topping that coats foods lavishly, rather than simply sliding off. Additionally, from a health standpoint, combining shiitake mushrooms with spices like chilies, garlic, and ginger can enhance their immune-boosting properties and increase the absorption of certain nutrients. Hot sauce really is good for your well being!
Spice Up Your Life
Simply swap out your usual hot sauce options for shito, and you’ll know what to do. It’s an all-purpose hot condiment that genuinely goes with everything. If you want a bit more guidance to get started, here are my top suggestions:
- Spread on wraps and sandwiches
- Drizzled on top of avocado toast
- Swirled into soups
- Simmered into curries
- Mixed into hummus
- Tossed with potato or pasta salads
- Whisked with your favorite vinegar or citrus juice to make a vinaigrette
- Used in marinades for tofu, seitan, tempeh, or any plant-based protein
Traditional Ghanian dishes that are ideal for pairing with shito include:
- Waakye, a dish of rice and beans
- Fufu, boiled and mashed starchy root vegetables like cassava, plantains, or yams
- Jollof rice, pilaf seasoned with spices and tomatoes
I’m cutting this list short here because we’ll be here all day if I keep going. I have yet to find a single dish that isn’t enhanced by this infallible finishing touch.
FAQ
Still have some burning questions about shito? Don’t be afraid, ask away! A few of the most commonly asked queries are as follows.
Can I make shito oil-free?
No. Shito cannot be made without oil. Shito cannot be made with reduced oil. Shito is an oil-based hot sauce, like chili crisp, and won’t work any other way. Oil is an excellent carrier for spices especially, intensifying flavors and preserving them over longer periods of time, while also absorbing more readily into other dishes. Bear in mind that a serving will only be a teaspoon or two, so it’s not like you’re drinking of cup of oil straight.
How long does homemade shito keep?
When stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, shito can last for at least a month, easily. Just make sure to keep it sealed and use a clean spoon each time you scoop some out to avoid contamination. For longer term storage, I’ve taken to freezing smaller jars so I can make a bigger batch and never run out. It’ll last in the freezer for at least 6 months. Place it in the fridge to slowly thaw out over the course of 24 hours when you’re ready to crack open the next one.
Can I halve the recipe?
Eight cups of hot sauce may sound like a lot to the average person, especially as a first time trial. You can easily cut the recipe in half if you’re not totally committed at first. Just plan to top off with a second batch soon after.
What can I substitute for habaneros?
Habaneros aren’t the only hot peppers in town. If you can’t get your hands on them or just want a change of pace, try using 4 – 6 scotch bonnet or 12 – 14 cayenne peppers. Feel free to experiment, mix and match, and make your own unique blend.
Peppered With Promise
To try shito is to love it. Speaking as a fair weather hot sauce fan, this potent little capsaicin elixir caught me completely off guard. Calling it revolutionary isn’t an overstatement; it’s the undefinable extra something special that I didn’t know my meals were missing. With every spoonful, shito unveils new layers of flavor that will forever change your eating experience for the better.
In Dog We Trust
Making dog treats from scratch is more of a gift for the person than the pup. Of course, I know that Luka will be beside himself with joy the moment that such a tasty morsel of human food is in fact for him. His tail will wag so hard, it might threaten to unwind and spin right off. His jaw might chatter, taking tiny chops out of the air before my hovering hand, as if preemptively tasting it, not wanting to miss a single crumb. Despite that, I’ll be happiest of all by creating such joy, no matter how simple or fleeting.
The thing is, dogs would make terrible food critics. Anything edible, and many things not, would be deemed delicacies. Every plate would be licked clean. There’s no such thing as tasting notes since they shouldn’t have salt, or sugar, or anything spicy, in addition to a long list of verboten ingredients. These baked doughnuts, which I’ve deemed dognuts, would be pretty blah to the average eater. Little more than flour, applesauce, and peanut butter, they’re fully edible for anyone who wants to partake, but might fall a little flat based on visual expectations.
Thankfully, my Luka is obsessed with all things doughnut-like and doughnut-shaped, would eat five dinners if no one stopped him, and has been known to eat small rocks if offered. This little gesture of love was an instant hit.
As we survive the one year anniversary of the day I almost lost him, I can’t help but want to squeeze him tighter, spoil him a bit more than usual, go on extra walks and let him sniff for as long as his snoot desires. I know he doesn’t understand, but I want make him some extra special treats for my own sake. To say that I love him, that I’m grateful he’s here, that I’m so lucky he’s still here.
Wordless Wednesday: Get Stuffed
Bistro Vonish – Beet Piroshky with Cabbage & Seitan
Bodhi Viet Vegan – Stuffed King Mushroom
Dosa Shack – Jack of All
El Cantaro – Chile Rellenos
Eldorado Cafe – Veganchiladas
Millennium – Tamal
Bistro Vonish – Spinach-Mushroom Kolache
El Cantaro – Enchiladas
So Long, and Thanks for All the Dishes
It’s closing time, as we turn out the lights on 2024 and prepare for the next shift, starting the cycle anew. Many restaurants won’t be joining us though, doors remaining locked indefinitely, their once bustling dining rooms left cold, filled only with silence. Running a food business, or a small business of any sort, is a difficult, if not altogether punishing proposition, where the daily to-do list is a never-ending lineup of crises. The fact that any hold on should be celebrated, though today, I’d like to take a minute to mourn the losses of the vegan community that have saddened Austinites of all stripes.
Somehow, 2024 seemed to take a lesser toll on the industry, with fewer establishments within our plant-based circle calling it quits in comparison to recent years. That doesn’t make these losses any less heartbreaking, nor their absence any less dispiriting. It brings me no pleasure to recount the once vibrant restaurants that are no longer with us.
Vegan Restaurant and Cafe Closures in Austin, 2024
Sunny’s Backyard is still out there serving cocktails from the bar, but the eponymous food truck has departed from its reserved space. It was a crushing blow to receive as not only the first closure of the year, but one of my top three favorite vegan spots in all of Austin. Yes, there’s a new rotating cast of characters subbing to fill the void, but none of the replacement trucks are vegan. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a plant-based option or two, which is a paltry offering compared to the previous list of meatless wings, monstrous burgers, soft pretzels with dairy-free queso, and fully loaded waffle fries. There’s nothing else quite like it that can replace the food, live music, dog-friendly patio, and chill vibes.
Capital City Bakery slipped away slowly, imperceptibly, until suddenly, it was gone, leaving only questions in its wake. Reduced hours turned into opening by appointment only, then not opening at all. The website remains as a ghost of its former self with purchasing options turned off. Cupcakes and kolaches still tease on the screen, almost close enough to taste, but entirely out of reach. This closure may have actually happened sometime in 2023 based on rumors of unfulfilled orders, so it’s time to finally call it: Cap City is baking no more.
Big Nonna’s grandmotherly love wasn’t enough to keep the pizza oven burning, submitting to increasing financial pressures that ultimately pushed them out of their brick and mortar space. A withering blow to north Austin where vegan options are more sparse, there’s no replacing their house-made dairy-free cheeses and spicy beeteroni, to say nothing of the impeccable thin, crispy, NY-style crusts each masterpiece was built on. At least Li’l Nonna’s lives on, still carrying the torch through a more limited menu from their compact trailer at Tweedy’s Bar… For now.
The Beer Plant tapped out in the final days of 2024. It had been a tumultuous year of chef shuffles and menu overhauls that the upscale eatery never recovered from. Watching its slow decline was painful, though the finality of its closure is still harder to accept. Where else in Austin could you go for an all-vegan fancy date night, an upscale meal to impress parents, or a celebratory spot for birthdays and beyond? Brunch is where they really excelled, in my opinion, pulling out all the stops to make incredible eggless shakshuka, decadent French toast, hearty meatless chicken and waffles, and so much more. I’ll relish the memories from my very first visit when they had just opened, when I was just a visitor to this fair city. I feel lucky to have seen their journey through, from start to finish, no matter how sad the ending.
Looking Ahead to 2025
As we look toward the horizon of 2025, there’s a glimmer of hope that flickers like candlelight in the darkness. The challenges we’ve faced have forged a resilient community, one that can adapt and innovate in the face of adversity. New ventures are on the verge of emerging, driven by passionate individuals eager to fill the void. Let’s remember the lessons learned from our losses, honoring those who have shaped our culinary landscape, while also embracing the possibilities ahead. Together, we can rebuild, reimagine, and reinvigorate the vibrant tapestry of our food culture, ensuring that the spirit of compassion and community continues to thrive in every bite.
Choke Artist
Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.
What’s In A Name?
When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.
Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen
With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.
- Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
- Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
- Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
- Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
- Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
- Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
- Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.
One Killer App
Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.
The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.
Culinary Renaissance
Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.