Category: Food

Boss Sauce

If tamales are on your agenda, doña sauce should be, too. Ubiquitous throughout Austin taquerias, high-end and low-brow, every plate is splashed with a shock of green salsa, clearly different from the rest. So commonplace that its absence is more notable than its presence, it didn’t even occur to me that it was a specific local phenomenon, invented just 20 years ago. More than just another salsa verde, salsa doña has secured a cult following without even trying.

What Is Doña Sauce, AKA Salsa Doña?

Invented by Bertha Gonzales while working at Tacodeli, it handily won an in-store salsa competition to snag a $30 prize. Given a Spanish honorific title out of respect, it became the signature flavor of this burgeoning chain, eventually being packaged for nationwide distribution. The amount of doña sauce being made everyday to meet the demand is staggering, to the tune of 60 pounds of jalapeños per individual taco shop, per day, to say nothing of commercial production.

Unforgettable Flavor

Built upon the smoky char of roasted jalapeños, garlic, and cilantro, such a simple foundation belies its complexity. Thick, rich, and creamy, it looks alarmingly like some dairy amalgamation at first, but that distinctive texture is all thanks to emulsified oil, much like an eggless aioli dip. Moderately spicy and somehow simultaneously cooling, brilliantly fresh and herbaceous, it’s hard to believe that this sensation comes together with only six common ingredients.

I Put That Sh*t on Everything

Tamales, tacos, burritos, nachos, queso, soups, burgers, wraps, sandwiches, salads, rice, refried beans… Stop me anytime, because the list of possible uses for salsa doña is truly endless. Anything that needs a little kick, regardless of the cuisine, is a prime candidate. The only thing I’d suggest not putting it on is your toothbrush, but then, you do you.

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

Tacodeli doña sauce copycat recipes abound. I don’t claim mine to be the most authentic since I wasn’t trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle. Instead, my version is inspired by the revered matriarch, leaning more heavily on the garlic and cilantro than other comparable renditions. Likewise, make it your own, dialing the ingredients up or down to taste. If you’d like yours hotter, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. Whatever you do, don’t let you tamales go naked. Especially when you’ve gone through the trouble of making such an important, labor-intensive holiday staple, they deserve the very best salsa to dress for the occasion.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Home Is Where The Chocolate Is

What makes a house a home? In the case of a gingerbread house, it’s about sugar and spice, of course, but it’s the personal touches that make it special. Just like you would lovingly decorate your own living spaces, each culinary construction project is an opportunity to bring your unique aesthetic to life. I’ve always relished the idea of making a gingerbread house for the holidays but rarely went through with it. Daunted by the process, it seems too difficult or time-consuming at a glance.

This year, I committed to pushing through that mental barrier to make myself a genuine gingerbread home at last. Seeing as I finally got my first home in real life this year, it’s only fitting to make a suitable tribute. Naturally, incorporating a few unconventional ingredients, my entry is anything but standard.

Choco-Rooms

Rich Dutch-processed cocoa creates the characteristic dark panels on my edible abode as a stark departure from the mahogany brown of conventional cookies. This in itself is nothing new, however; you’ll find a recipe for “cocoa-nut gingerbread” cookies printed in the 1845 cookbook, Modern Cookery, In All Its Branches, and no doubt earlier versions if you keep digging. What these early bakers didn’t think to include is the ultimate all-purpose flavor enhancer, otherwise known as Sugimoto shiitake powder.

Mushrooms are sprouting out in all sorts of foods and drinks, from coffee to cakes, owing to their nutritional prowess and, in the case of shiitake’s abundant free glutamate, ability to amplify existing flavors to even greater resonance. No, it won’t make your sweets taste mushroomy, as proven by my shiitake vanilla ice cream. You won’t know it’s there, per say, but once you taste the difference, you will know if it’s missing.

Building Up The Gingerbread House Legacy

Long before pumpkins found their spice, gingerbread was the defacto flavor of the holiday season. As the spice trade flourished in the Middle Ages, ginger became more accessible, paving the way for the evolution of gingerbread into a dessert worthy of celebration. By the 15th century, gingerbread had made its way to Europe, where it began to take on new forms. In Germany, it was often molded into intricate shapes for festivals and fairs. This was also the era when the famed Nuremberg gingerbread, known as “Lebkuchen,” gained popularity, featuring a complex blend of spices and nuts.

However, it was the story of Hansel and Gretel that truly solidified gingerbread’s place in the holiday canon. The Brothers Grimm’s fairy tale, published in the early 19th century, painted a picture of an enchanted house made entirely of gingerbread and candy, capturing the imaginations of children and adults alike. Inspired by this tale, gingerbread houses began to emerge as a holiday tradition, continuing into the modern era, where families would gather to create their own edible cottages adorned with sweets.

Iced Out

Skip the conventional royal icing mortar in favor of pure melted chocolate to build a better home. Aside from the obvious flavor benefits, it’s much easier to work with, piping out smoothly or spreading on thick, and sets up very quickly in a reasonably cool kitchen. If you need to speed things along, just set your pieces in the fridge for a few minutes, and they’ll be good to go. I wanted to keep mine simple, sticking with only dark chocolate for all my embellishments, but you can go all-out with vegan white chocolate, colored sanding sugar, candies, fresh herbs, and any other edible decor your heart desires. It’s your house after all; raise the roof!

Build It Better

Based on my fool-proof Gingerbread Cut-Out Cookies recipe, this formula has already stood the test of time. After 13 years and untold adaptations, it simply never fails. The dough is sturdy, easy to roll out thinly without cracking, and barely spreads while baking. You could absolutely make classic gingerbread people and call it a day, no house required. These cookies make for excellent gifts or additions to any holiday party.

A house isn’t built overnight, and neither is a gingerbread house. Well, yes, while it’s possible for the early risers and truly ambitious, I find it much more enjoyable (and less stressful) to bake the pieces one day, apply basic decorations and piping once completely cooled, and assemble them the next. For more construction advice, see my previous post about best gingerbread house building practices.

Chocolate gingerbread, enhanced by the subtle umami undercurrent of shiitake powder, could be the next big thing for seasonal sweets. Rich dark chocolate and the warm spice of gingerbread, elevated by the depth of umami from shiitake powder, is the unlikely combination I personally can’t get enough of. Go ahead; embrace the holiday season with an eye towards nostalgia but an appetite for something new. In this sweet home, all are welcome.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Right On ‘Cue

For all the amazing vegan food that covers nearly all cuisines across Austin, there is at least one glaring omission: BBQ. It’s such an essential staple here, and plant-based alternatives are well-established, so why don’t the two ever meet?

We have a few options, if not full BBQ establishments. A number of restaurants have come and gone, even during my short tenure here. Notable losses include the late BBQ Revolution, Bone-a-fide Vegan, and PlowBQ. In their wake, many other talented plant-based chefs have made space on their diverse menus to include this all-American staple. When cravings hit, here’s the full list of meatless BBQ dishes within city limits.

Best Vegan BBQ in Austin, TX

Mission Burger – For the most authentic smoked brisket that could genuinely fool an omnivore, this should be your first stop. The Smokey Brisket Burger piles mushroom-based brisket on top of one or two Impossible patties, dairy-free provolone cheese, crispy onion strings, and pickles, which is even more of a mouthful than it sounds. Rich like genuine fatty brisket, you’d be wise to schedule in a nap shortly after partaking. For the full experience, grab a BBQ Plate which includes slaw and mac and cheese, or just throw that umami meatless mix on top of Brisket Cheese Fries for a quick fix.

Bistro Vonish – A perennial staple, the BBQ Seitan Sandwich is a little bit sweet, a little bit smoky, and wholly satisfying. Hitting at the heart of honest, no-frills, meat-centric BBQ, it puts the protein front and center. Seeing as the thick-cut seitan is made entirely from scratch, it would be a disservice to do anything else. Paired with some tender cabbage on a chewy baguette, it’s a study in simple pleasures.

Bouldin Creek Cafe – It’s hard to resist the legendary tofu scrambles, but when you’re ready to move beyond breakfast, the Vegan BBQ Plate dinner special won’t let you down. Made with Flying Tempeh Co soy tempeh topped with a house-made BBQ sauce, you get the full compliment of beans, salad, and your choice of a side. Cornbread is really the only choice if you ask me, but you do you.

Double Trouble – Get it on a taco or a bowl; as long as you don’t pass up the BBQ Tempeh Short Rib, you can’t go wrong. What makes it so special is that it’s made with pecan smoke and topped with house-made raspberry BBQ sauce, for an ideal sweet and savory balance.

ATX FOOD CO – For a heathy, whole food fix, I’m happy to report that the Tempeh Brisket is a solid choice. Impressively meaty yet tender, deeply smoky in a way that liquid seasonings alone can’t replicate, it’s bold and flavorful without using syrupy sauces as a crutch. You can get it on tacos made with spelt tortillas or in a quinoa bowl, complete with pickled cabbage, broccoli, and avocado for a truly hearty meal.

The Vegan Yacht – Tex-Mex still reigns supreme around these parts, so it should come as no surprise that there’s a good amount of overlap across cuisines. The Smokehouse Burrito takes the whole BBQ plate and wraps it up in one giant tortilla the size of a newborn baby. Ideal for grab-and-go satisfaction, you get the convenience of having smoked BBQ tempeh, whole wheat mac and cheese, slaw, pickles, and avocado in every gargantuan bite.

Wholly Cow Burgers – Perhaps one of the last places you’d think to look for a vegan meal, this old school ode to ground beef is slinging a few noteworthy plant-based bites as well. The Bean Brisket Sandwich employs black-eyed pea-based Texas Tempeh to make up the meat of the matter, slathered in BBQ sauce and generously topped with grilled onions. Though a welcome change of pace for this old school burger join, it does clock in on the salty side, so make sure you grab a soda or sweet tea to wash it down.

Coming Attractions

Like a gripping novel full of twists and turns, this is far from the end of the story…

Rison & Lotts, borne of the mastermind behind Community Vegan, will rise to fill the gap as the sole 100% plant-based barbecue restaurant in all of Austin proper. Building their brick-and-mortar location from the ground up, it’s due early next year on the east side, not far from the current truck. Serving up platters piled high with lion’s mane chopped beef, smoky brisket, and smoked chick’n, complete with potato salad and baked beans, it’s everything a BBQ lover could crave, and more. In addition to the restaurant, there will be a market for grab-and-go chilled deli sides, desserts, and frozen biscuits. Until then, expect to see two or three more pop-up previews at Community Vegan to get an early taste of what’s to come.

The hotly anticipated revival of Counter Culture looms on the horizon, replete with BBQ seitan as a headlining attraction. Between now and then, any number of limited specials at existing establishments could spring fresh vegan barbecue inspiration on the community, while old staples may expand on smoky specials, too.

Plenty of restaurants can take BBQ sauce and douse meatless wings or burgers, but for a real smoke show, seek out these trailblazing experts.

Hannah (BitterSweet)8 Comments

Reinventing The Pinwheel

When you wake up in a holi-daze, still feeling groggy from too much nog, it’s tough to get motivated and cook a proper breakfast. Forget about making a huge production; the right recipe will wake up your taste buds even before your brain can engage. Keep the festivities rolling with big, hearty, and healthy breakfast pinwheels.

The Gift of Good Taste

Want to give your loved ones a gift they won’t find under the tree? There’s nothing better than waking up to the aroma of sautéed onions and garlic wafting from the kitchen, promising something rich and savory is on the way. Layering lightly spiced, herb-flecked vegan breakfast sausage, vibrant kale, and creamy tofu scramble in soft lavash flatbread is a foolproof formula for a happy holiday. It’s a symphony of textures and tastes, contrasting and harmonizing simultaneously, for a deeply satisfying morning meal.

How Do You Roll?

No gathering is complete without at least one picky eater on board, but this highly adaptable, entirely flexible blueprint can accommodate all requests. You can easily customize the filling based on what you have on hand or your guests’ preferences.

  • Simplify by doubling up on just meatless sausage, or just tofu scramble.
  • Swap the kale for spinach, or omit it entirely if the kids balk at anything green
  • Lose the lavash and stuff everything into pita pockets, or better yet, have guests assemble their own.

There’s no shame in using shortcuts like prepared ready-to-eat sausage crumbles or prepared tofu scramble to take some pressure off in the pre-dawn rush, too.

Break The Fast, Not Your Spirit

Don’t let holiday fatigue get you down! Roll up your sleeves, and your lavash, and bring a little cheer back to the breakfast table.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments