Category: Baking / Cooking
Naan-Stop
In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.
What Is Kashmiri Naan?
Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.
Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.
Breads Rising From the Himalayas
Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.
Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure
Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.
- Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
- Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
- Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
- Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.
Serving and Savoring
Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.
While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.
Ocas For Every Occasion
We have the Incas to thank for many of today’s hottest superfoods. Quinoa took the world by storm, rising from an unknown oddity to ubiquitous healthy staple seemingly overnight. Cassava is now the backbone of countless gluten-free baked goods, not to mention the darling of those following a paleo protocol. Maca, lucuma, and camu camu are all held in high esteem for flavoring desserts and creating natural supplements alike. Still, that’s only a fraction of the unique edible gifts Peru has to offer. Currently little known outside of South America, ocas may be next to make an appearance on that star-studded playbill.
What Are Ocas?
Though the comparisons are unavoidable, ocas are NOT just another type of potato. Also known as uqa in Quechua, the oca is a root vegetable native to the Andes, where its been grown since before known civilization. The tubers come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, but they are typically elongated and finger-like, ranging from 1 centimeter to 4 inches in length. (Pictured here are the smallest variety around, sometimes described as “mini” or “baby” ocas.)
Their skin is bumpy and comes in vibrant colors like red, yellow, orange, purple, and pink. The very same crop can yield a full spectrum sunset or just one shade. The leaves and flowers of the oca plant are also edible and can be used in salads or stir-fries, but are nearly impossible to export given their fragility.
Taste The Rainbow
Although color isn’t an indicator of flavor, not all ocas taste the same. The specific flavor profile can vary depending on the variety and how they are cooked. Complex and multifaceted, the taste can be described as combination of four primary elements:
- Sweet: Similar to sweet potato or butternut squash, with a a heightened perception of the natural sugars.
- Sour: A slight tartness, similar to green apples or raw rhubarb, which adds a refreshing note.
- Nutty: A hint of nuttiness, like chestnuts or hazelnuts, adding depth.
- Earthy: As you might expect from a root vegetable, similar to white potatoes or gold beets.
How To Eat And Cook With Ocas
Raw ocas are truly special; crisp and crunchy, with a slight snap when bitten, they make a stunning addition to a plate of dip and crudités. Though also fabulous when cooked, they begin to lose some of their defining characteristics that set them apart from supermarket spuds. Their colors become muted with heat and time, though that can be mitigated somewhat by using more acidic ingredients (lemon juice, vinegar, tomatoes) to preserve the volatile anthocyanins.
To reiterate, ocas are not potatoes, but they can be prepared any way you would cook potatoes.
- Boiling: This is a simple and effective method, resulting in a soft and tender texture. Cook whole ocas in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork.
- Roasting: Roasting brings out the natural sweetness and creates a crispy exterior. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, toss ocas with olive oil and herbs, and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown and fork-tender.
- Sautéing: Sautéed ocas are another delicious option. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat, add chopped ocas, and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add other ingredients like onions, peppers, or spices for added flavor.
- Frying: Ocas can be deep-fried for a crispy snack or side dish. However, this is the least healthy option due to added fat.
- Mashing: Mashed ocas are a smooth and creamy side dish. Boil ocas for 20 minutes until soft, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, and your favorite seasonings.
Recipe Ideas
What sets ocas apart from your average taproot is their versatility. Most focus on their savory applications, but they’re equally appealing when used in desserts. That means they’re fantastic…
- Candied, either by plunging them into hot caramelized sugar and let set, or tossed with aquafaba and coarse sugar.
- On top of yogurt or smoothie bowls.
- Tossed into fruit salads as well as leafy green salads.
- Baked into focaccia or used as a topping for flatbreads and pizzas.
- Mixed with diced potatoes and pan-fried as hash browns.
- Lightly simmered in soups or stews.
- Canned, either as pickles or sweet preserves and jam.
Keep An Eye Out For Ocas
With their unique flavor profile, diverse textures, and vibrant colors, ocas offer a wholly satisfying adventure for your taste buds. From simple raw snacks to creative culinary uses, this ancient Andean root vegetable is poised for a modern comeback.
Crunch Time
I love cabbage. I don’t care how weird or uncool that makes me; I will never hide my penchant for these leafy brassicas. Look, I get the stigma, having historically been the food of peasants, the tragically poor and déclassé. After centuries of disrespect, I’d like to think I’m seeing glimmers of hope on the horizon for the humble cabbage.
That’s where the Crunchy Cabbage Salad at Loro comes in. For a place that bills itself as an Asian smokehouse and bar, they sure do know their way around the produce department. I was instantly smitten with their oak grilled snap peas that graced the menu over the summer, but this salad turned out to be the real sleeper hit. Arriving at the table showered with lemon zest, fresh mint, and candied cashews, the interplay of sugar and salt, crunchy and creamy, is exactly what makes it so compelling.
Gossamer-thin strands of shredded red cabbage intertwine with lightly pickled cucumbers and bites of tender green cabbage, sweet and mild, crisp yet somehow juicy. Coated in a cashew-ginger vinaigrette, the dressing has body from just a roasted cashew butter, preventing it from becoming cloying or heavy. Brightened by the fresh, raw spice and citrus, it’s the kind of condiment you’ll want on hand at all times. Go ahead, start mentally doubling or tripling that recipe right now to save the rest for later.
Loro keeps their secrets well, so I couldn’t get the official formula out of them. No matter; nothing will stand in the way of my love for cabbage. This is my take on the concept, with the added benefit of making about four times as much for a quarter of the price. Going slightly off-script, I found that smoked cashews add an even more compelling dimension, but simple roasted cashews would be equally satisfying.
Above all else, the real star of the show is the cabbage. Standing tall like fragile, tender greens never could, it’s a salad that travels well, keeps well, and quite simply won’t let you down.
Hot Take
We all know what you’re supposed to do when life gives you lemons, but what about when life gives you jalapeños? Or, more specifically, when you need a single jalapeño for a photo shoot but can only buy them in 1-pound packages? Turns out there’s no cute proverb for that. Considering the number of times I’ve faced down exactly this conundrum, you’d think there would be a simple answer.
Turns out there is. Sriracha, one of the hottest exports to come from Thailand, is an essential condiment in my household. There must be no less than three bottles at any time, in case of emergencies. While most famously known as a bright red sauce made from fresh red chili peppers, there’s no reason why green jalapeños can’t enjoy the same treatment. In fact, there’s even yellow sriracha made from Thai burapa chiles, but that’s a story for another blog post.
Green Sriracha Heats Things Up
Both red and green sriracha start with the same basic formula, creating a garlicky, lightly sweet, and tangy base. Green jalapeños, being the unripe predecessors to red, have a sharper, grassier, brighter kick. As a result, green sriracha has a spicier bite that starts punching right away. Nuanced, but not subtle, this is the answer to anyone who thinks conventional sriracha is too mild.
Seasoned To Taste
The real benefit of making your own sriracha from scratch, aside from preventing food waste should you find yourself with a daunting pile of peppers, is getting to call the shots on what ingredients make the cut. Contrary to commercial options, my sriracha is…
- Sugar-free, using pineapple juice for natural sweetness, plus a touch of acidity instead of harsh white vinegar
- Free of preservatives and stabilizers, because it won’t be kicking around on a dusty shelf for years
- Lower in salt, since whatever you’re using it on will be presumably be salted, too
- Higher in garlic, because I’ve yet to find the limit
While store-bought sriracha may still have a place of honor in my fridge, homemade will always have the edge. With minimal effort and active time, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant, flavorful condiment that elevates any dish. You don’t even need to accidentally over-purchase green jalapeños to give this recipe a try.
10 Best Vegan Passover Recipes
For plant-based eaters, Passover can be one tough nut to crack. Fortunately, nuts are pesadik, so we’ve already got a running start at crafting a complete and kosher menu. What makes menu planning so difficult isn’t the lack of flour and leaveners most commonly associated with the holiday, but the avoidance of kitniyot. Conservative Ashkenazi Jews renounce beans, rice, corn, and peas for all seven days, but most would simply remove them from the Seder table. In any event, that’s the bulk of vegan protein sources right there, including tofu, tempeh, and most alternative meats.
Why Not Kitniyot?
The concern with these ingredients is not the foods themselves, but the fact that they look similar to and may possibly have the forbidden chametz grains accidentally mixed in. The especially strict would even forbid sugar snap peas, mustard, and poppy seeds, among many other curious and oddly specific selections. Many would also consider any derivatives of these ingredients verboten, such as aquafaba (brine from chickpeas), so those delicate meringue kisses are still off the table. Luckily, modern rabbis have ruled that quinoa gets the green light, so it’s wise to stock up and embrace the pseudo-cereal.
Best Bets For A Vegan Passover
Pay homage to the past without becoming a prisoner to tradition. From the festival meal to the less fanciful fare to follow, these recipes won’t let you down.