A Close Shave

Cauliflower can be many things, but rarely is it allowed to be itself these days. While grabbing a bite with friends, seeing it appear on a pizza—not blended into the crust, but perched right on top in all its snowy white, raw glory—was such a shock, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. Everything about it sounds questionable, like biting into a chunk of impenetrable starch, but the cut made all the difference. Slicing it paper thin, as I had never seen before, was a revelation. Cool and crisp against the warm, gooey base, it was like an entirely new vegetable.

Mon Petit Chou-Fleur

Rather than pulling apart the clustered budding stems, considering the head as a whole completely changes the vegetable. Elegant yet understated, distinctive and still versatile, shaved cauliflower is now my favorite salad starter. Leave the lettuce at home for a more substantial, sturdy salad.

In this particular blend, thinly sliced cauliflower provides a delicate crunch that pairs perfectly with the tender edamame and cool cucumber. Crumbled vegan feta adds a creamy twang, while toasted pepitas finish with a nutty bite. Tossed in a silky, lemony tahini dressing, the salad is both refreshing and full of depth, with a hint of sweetness to balance the otherwise disparate elements.

The key to this cauliflower revelry? A mandoline.

Mandoline Tune-Up

Mandoline slicers are the most dangerous tools found in a kitchen. Otherwise known as a finger guillotine, digit decapitator, or the one-swipe skin remover, mandolines are notorious for their ability to quickly and efficiently cut through everything in their path. More often than not, that means those pitched razor blades mow through more than just carrots or potatoes. A moment of distraction or a slip of the hand can leave even experienced cooks seeing red. If you’re not afraid of your mandoline, you haven’t used it enough.

Looking Sharp

Why recommend such a hazardous appliance, even after numerous experiences that left a mark? There’s simply no other tool for the job. While a properly honed knife is essential, the sharpest edge can’t compete with the precision and consistency of a mandoline. That’s especially true when making delicate, thin shavings of cauliflower, rather than coarsely crumbled florets. So yes, despite those dire warnings, I’m telling you to put yourself in peril and use this modern torture device. If you’d like to keep all ten fingers, I have three easy tips for you:

  1. USE
  2. THE
  3. HAND GUARD

That’s it, that’s the secret to success. If you’ve lost the hand guard, don’t make this recipe. I won’t be held responsible for your hospital bill.

As visually stunning as it is delicious, each bite of cauliflower is paper-thin, creating a light, crisp, and satisfying texture. The result is a refreshing, bright salad that showcases the simplicity of raw cauliflower. Suspend your disbelief, watch your fingers, and give it a shot. Cauliflower is best when it can be itself, front and center.

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Cake Is The Answer, No Matter The Question

What exactly is “birthday cake flavor”? Given that a birthday cake is any cake you’ve graciously invited to the party, this abstract flavoring has less to do with the reality and diversity of celebratory desserts, and more to do with a collective American nostalgia surrounding them.

For my real birthday cake, I’d love something with matcha and pistachio; taro and praline; tonka bean and yuzu; anything but plain vanilla. And yet, if we’re talking about birthday cake flavor, or cake batter flavor, for that matter, that’s exactly what I’d crave.

Typically, birthday cake flavor is a nostalgic mix of:

  • Vanilla, being the classic and popular base flavor that most birthday cakes use
  • Buttery richness, often from a combination of moist, buttery baked layers and whipped buttercream frosting
  • Sweetness, found in ample supply throughout, in varying degrees of sugar-coma inducing saccharinity
  • Sprinkles, for a pop of color that looks like edible confetti, becoming a veritable pinata full of candy in every bite

So, for my 36 birthday, I’d like to share some cake with you, that brings together these elements that transcend actual cake, but invoke an overall feeling of joy, fun, and the festivity for the occasion. This recipe for Birthday Cake Ice Cream is straight out of my cookbook, Vegan à la Mode, which is still a reliable reference to this day.

As I pitched it then, ten years ago: No longer do you have to struggle with deciding between cake and ice cream; have them both in one frozen dessert! If it is simply too hot to turn on the oven, you can cheat a bit and purchase 6 vegan cupcakes instead of baking your own. Just scrape off the frosting before blending them up to make your frozen creation.

For a single serving twist, instead of moving the finished ice cream into a container to be served up in scoops, pack the soft ice cream into sturdy cupcake cups and let freeze solid. Right before eating or presenting them, pipe or spoon a dollop of frosting on top. Voila, a genuine ice cream cupcake!

Please join me in commemorating my latest milestone with the idea of birthday cake, with all the indulgence and festivity tied to the act of celebrating. I’ll scoop to that.

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No Shito, Sherlock

Shito is unlike any other peppery potion on the planet. I want to say I developed a mild obsession with this Ghanian staple after editing and photographing one particularly inspiring article for Vegan Journal, but there’s nothing mild about it. While blisteringly hot habaneros are usually near the upper limit of my heat tolerance, when blended with sweet caramelized onions and robust tomatoes, their firepower is utterly transformed. It may still leave you gulping down water, but wanting more nonetheless.

What Is Shito?

“Shito” comes from the Ga language and is short for “shitor din,” which literally means “black pepper,” alluding to the dark color the paste takes on after cooking low and slow. The heat level can be calibrated to taste, unique to each individual cook, ranging from medium-hot to an edible inferno. Exact components and proportions vary by region and household, but common uniting factors include chilies, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, and oil. Traditionally, dried fish and/or shrimp is the key to unlocking its distinctive body and richness, earthiness and umami. That may sound like a tough thing to emulate through vegan means, but when you have Sugimoto shiitake powder on deck, it’s as easy as opening a bag.

Shii-to (AKA, Shiitake Shito)

One unexpected benefit of using Sugimoto shiitake powder instead of dried seafood, or even simply ground, dried mushrooms, is that the incredibly fine powder absorbs more liquid, creating a thicker, more substantial sauce. Though it still separates as it sits, it’s much easier to use as part of a bold dip or topping that coats foods lavishly, rather than simply sliding off. Additionally, from a health standpoint, combining shiitake mushrooms with spices like chilies, garlic, and ginger can enhance their immune-boosting properties and increase the absorption of certain nutrients. Hot sauce really is good for your well being!

Spice Up Your Life

Simply swap out your usual hot sauce options for shito, and you’ll know what to do. It’s an all-purpose hot condiment that genuinely goes with everything. If you want a bit more guidance to get started, here are my top suggestions:

  • Spread on wraps and sandwiches
  • Drizzled on top of avocado toast
  • Swirled into soups
  • Simmered into curries
  • Mixed into hummus
  • Tossed with potato or pasta salads
  • Whisked with your favorite vinegar or citrus juice to make a vinaigrette
  • Used in marinades for tofu, seitan, tempeh, or any plant-based protein

Traditional Ghanian dishes that are ideal for pairing with shito include:

  • Waakye, a dish of rice and beans
  • Fufu, boiled and mashed starchy root vegetables like cassava, plantains, or yams
  • Jollof rice, pilaf seasoned with spices and tomatoes

I’m cutting this list short here because we’ll be here all day if I keep going. I have yet to find a single dish that isn’t enhanced by this infallible finishing touch.

FAQ

Still have some burning questions about shito? Don’t be afraid, ask away! A few of the most commonly asked queries are as follows.

Can I make shito oil-free?

No. Shito cannot be made without oil. Shito cannot be made with reduced oil. Shito is an oil-based hot sauce, like chili crisp, and won’t work any other way. Oil is an excellent carrier for spices especially, intensifying flavors and preserving them over longer periods of time, while also absorbing more readily into other dishes. Bear in mind that a serving will only be a teaspoon or two, so it’s not like you’re drinking of cup of oil straight.

How long does homemade shito keep?

When stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, shito can last for at least a month, easily. Just make sure to keep it sealed and use a clean spoon each time you scoop some out to avoid contamination. For longer term storage, I’ve taken to freezing smaller jars so I can make a bigger batch and never run out. It’ll last in the freezer for at least 6 months. Place it in the fridge to slowly thaw out over the course of 24 hours when you’re ready to crack open the next one.

Can I halve the recipe?

Eight cups of hot sauce may sound like a lot to the average person, especially as a first time trial. You can easily cut the recipe in half if you’re not totally committed at first. Just plan to top off with a second batch soon after.

What can I substitute for habaneros?

Habaneros aren’t the only hot peppers in town. If you can’t get your hands on them or just want a change of pace, try using 4 – 6 scotch bonnet or 12 – 14 cayenne peppers. Feel free to experiment, mix and match, and make your own unique blend.

Peppered With Promise

To try shito is to love it. Speaking as a fair weather hot sauce fan, this potent little capsaicin elixir caught me completely off guard. Calling it revolutionary isn’t an overstatement; it’s the undefinable extra something special that I didn’t know my meals were missing. With every spoonful, shito unveils new layers of flavor that will forever change your eating experience for the better.

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In Dog We Trust

Making dog treats from scratch is more of a gift for the person than the pup. Of course, I know that Luka will be beside himself with joy the moment that such a tasty morsel of human food is in fact for him. His tail will wag so hard, it might threaten to unwind and spin right off. His jaw might chatter, taking tiny chops out of the air before my hovering hand, as if preemptively tasting it, not wanting to miss a single crumb. Despite that, I’ll be happiest of all by creating such joy, no matter how simple or fleeting.

The thing is, dogs would make terrible food critics. Anything edible, and many things not, would be deemed delicacies. Every plate would be licked clean. There’s no such thing as tasting notes since they shouldn’t have salt, or sugar, or anything spicy, in addition to a long list of verboten ingredients. These baked doughnuts, which I’ve deemed dognuts, would be pretty blah to the average eater. Little more than flour, applesauce, and peanut butter, they’re fully edible for anyone who wants to partake, but might fall a little flat based on visual expectations.

Thankfully, my Luka is obsessed with all things doughnut-like and doughnut-shaped, would eat five dinners if no one stopped him, and has been known to eat small rocks if offered. This little gesture of love was an instant hit.

As we survive the one year anniversary of the day I almost lost him, I can’t help but want to squeeze him tighter, spoil him a bit more than usual, go on extra walks and let him sniff for as long as his snoot desires. I know he doesn’t understand, but I want make him some extra special treats for my own sake. To say that I love him, that I’m grateful he’s here, that I’m so lucky he’s still here.

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Choke Artist

Don’t choke—when it comes to unheralded heroes of the plant world, few are as intriguing and underappreciated as the sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This gnarled, knotted knuckle-like tuber might not immediately command the same admiration as its more glamorous cousins, like potatoes or carrots, but don’t let its homely appearance fool you. The sunchoke’s backstory is as rich as its flavor and culinary potential.

What’s In A Name?

When referred to as a “Jerusalem” artichoke, that has nothing to do with its place of origin. It’s believed to be a mistranslation of the Italian word girasole, meaning “sunflower,” which the sunchoke plant closely resembles. The sunchoke is, in fact, as American as apple pie, or perhaps more fittingly, as American as a sunflower. Native to North America, the sunchoke was a staple crop for many Indigenous tribes. The Iroquois, for example, prized it as a valuable food source long before European settlers arrived, calling it “sunroot.” This tuber was easy to grow, nutritious, and could withstand the vagaries of nature; a must-have for any survivalist’s garden.

Let The Sunshine Into The Kitchen

With its nutty, earthy flavor and potato-like texture, sunchokes lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods, from raw preparations to hearty roasted dishes. Here are a few creative ideas to help you incorporate this unique tuber into your kitchen repertoire.

  1. Raw: Sunchokes have a pleasantly crunchy texture when raw, making them a fantastic addition to salads. Slice them thinly and toss with greens, citrus, and perhaps a tangy vinaigrette. Their nutty flavor pairs particularly well with apples, fennel, or pears for a refreshing, light bite.
  2. Roasted and Caramelized: When roasted, sunchokes take on a rich, golden brown hue and develop a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that’s hard to resist. Toss chunks or wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper, and your favorite herbs (rosemary and thyme are excellent choices), then roast in a hot oven until crispy on the edges and tender in the center. You can roast them alongside root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or sweet potatoes for a hearty, rustic side dish.
  3. Soup: Sunchokes make a luxurious, velvety soup when puréed. They blend beautifully with classic aromatics like onions and garlic, plus a touch of coconut milk to create a rich, silky texture. For a bit of depth, add roasted garlic or leeks and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs like parsley or chives.
  4. Sautéed or Stir-Fried: For a quick and easy side dish, try sautéing sliced sunchokes in a hot pan with olive oil, minced garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and fresh chilies. Cook them until golden and tender, about 10 – 12 minutes, for a bight, bold addition to any meal, especially when paired with Asian flavors.
  5. Sunchoke Chips: Craving a crunchy snack? Slice sunchokes as thinly as possible, toss with a little olive oil and coarse salt, then bake them in a single layer at 375 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes, or air fry at 340 degrees for 10 – 14 minutes, until golden and crisp. These homemade chips are a great alternative to traditional potato chips and can be seasoned with a variety of spices, from smoked paprika to chili flakes for an extra kick.
  6. Mashed: If you’re in the mood for something similar to mashed potatoes but with a unique twist, try mashing sunchokes. Boil them until tender, then mash with vegan butter, non-dairy milk, roasted garlic, and minced parsley. You could try a blend of half potatoes, half sunchokes, too.
  7. Pickled: Pickling sunchokes is another great way to preserve their crisp texture and make use of their earthy flavor. Slice them thinly, then submerge them in a vinegar brine with seasonings like dill, mustard seeds, and black peppercorn. The result is a crunchy, tangy snack that’s perfect on charcuterie boards or cheese plates.

One Killer App

Looking for a standout appetizer that blends earthy and bright flavors with a touch of sophistication? Enter the Sunchoke Crostini. This simple yet elegant bite uses thinly sliced raw sunchokes, which offer a satisfying crunch and a nutty sweetness that pairs beautifully with a savory green olive tapenade. The addition of lemon zest, Aleppo pepper, and peppery microgreens brings the whole dish to life with a burst of brightness and spice.

The key to this crostini is balancing the raw sunchokes’ natural crunch with the rich, briny tapenade, while the lemon zest adds a fresh zing that contrasts perfectly with the earthy flavors of the tuber. Aleppo pepper brings a gentle warmth, and the microgreens finish it off with a peppery bite, making this a flavor-packed appetizer that’s sure to impress.

Culinary Renaissance

Though still somewhat obscure in mainstream grocery stores, the sunchoke is experiencing a quiet resurgence in popularity. Farmers’ markets and high-end restaurants alike are reintroducing it to diners, who are discovering the joys of its crisp, slightly sweet flavor. Whether in a salad, a creamy purée, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt, the sunchoke is proving that sometimes the most intriguing culinary finds come in unexpected packages.

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Healthier For The Holidays

Traditionally a time of socially acceptable gluttony and excess, holiday indulgences are an important part of the season, within reason. There’s room for plenty of treats while still making space for some smarter choices. It’s been my distinct pleasure to create some more wholesome options for the winter festivities as part of my partnership with Kim Murphy at Simply Plant Based Kitchen.

Tasked with creating weekly recipes using only whole foods that are oil-free, refined sugar-free, and low-sodium, it’s been an inspiring undertaking that’s helped me eat better at the same time. Proof positive that you can have all the flavors you crave without the junk, I’m thrilled to share some of the best seasonal dishes to help facilitate a healthier, happier holiday season for all.

Cranberry Cheese Ball

Kick off your holiday party with a show-stopping starter! In this twist on the southern staple, creamy cashew cheese meets fresh cranberries simmered in orange juice, turning the soft spread a jolly pink color. Crusted with crisp pistachios and pomegranate arils, each bite is a little bit sweet, tart, and richly savory. It’ll be hard to leave room for the main meal when the appetizer is this compelling!

Gingered Butternut Squash Soup

Warming from the inside out, a steaming bowlful of butternut soup is just what the doctor ordered, even when you’re feeling perfectly well. Roasting the squash caramelizes the natural sugars, bringing out a greater depth of flavor while enhancing the velvety texture once blended. If you’re spice-sensitive, you might want to start with half as much ginger to be safe; you can always add more to taste.

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad

Everyone loves roasted Brussels sprouts, but have you tried eating them raw? Finely shaved into gossamer shreds, they form the crisp hearty foundation of this ode to autumn’s bounty. Combining juicy pears, crunchy toasted pecans, and bursts of tart pomegranate arils, a hint of orange zest adds a refreshing citrus note, making this salad a perfect balance of sweet, savory, and tangy.

Baked Latkes

Meet the healthiest, tastiest latkes ever! Although the miracle of the Hanukkah lights is all about oil, it’s entirely possible to celebrate without a single drop. Baked and not fried, these latkes are crispy around the edges and soft in the center, almost like little hash brown pancakes. Made with zero grease and no mess in the oven, they’re a modern miracle in and of themselves.

Cranberry Banana Bread

Banana bread never goes out of season, a perennial favorite that’s infinitely adaptable. Fresh cranberries dress up this humble loaf in autumn’s finest fashion, adding tart flavor to contrast the moist, maple-sweetened crumb. Sparkling with warm cinnamon and ginger, each slice is a cozy reminder of fall, perfect for enjoying with a cup of tea or sharing with loved ones during those chilly afternoons.

Pumpkin Bread Pudding

Warm, creamy, and comforting, bread pudding is the perfect dessert to ward off those autumn chills while celebrating the season’s bounty. Infused with the goodness of pumpkin and sweetened entirely with dates, this version is as satisfying as it is soothing. Consider this your invitation to customize your bread pudding to better suit your personal tastes; apple pie spices or chai spices would be delightful to swap in for this classic combo, and a handful of chocolate chips or dried fruit would certainly be welcome, too.

Peppermint Crunch Bark

Homemade peppermint bark is one of the best crowd-pleasing sweets, crafts to make with kids, and last-minute gifts, all wrapped up in one bite-sized package. All you need is chocolate and peppermint extract to make it happen! Give your bark more bite this year by incorporating crispy rice cereal and cacao nibs, creating a texture that’s both lighter and more satisfying. It’s an easy and fun treat that everyone will love!