Sage Advice

When you were a kid, did you ever dream of one day waking up in someone else’s life? To jump out of bed in a brand new room, fully inhabited and carefully curated by someone with an impeccable sense of style? To open the drawers and find all new clothes, exactly your size, but nicer than you’ve ever had before? That’s what it felt like beginning the latest chapter in my new home. Such an immaculate, well-maintained space could only have fallen into my custody by some magical event, like something only my childlike imagination could rationalize.

Inhabiting that dream is a wild endeavor. Instead of waking up right when it starts getting good, you just keep going, discovering more, increasingly incredible things. Every minute detail is yours for savoring, and in the case of the yard especially, that will be an endless odyssey. Clearly, the previous owners had green thumbs, sowing seeds for plants and vegetables up and down the perimeter, into raised beds, across the front walk; everywhere the eye can see.

Gardening has become a full-contact sport. Beating back the weeds, growing tenaciously with thorns and burs outstretched with the threat of violence thick in the air, wasn’t part of the dream I fancied, but honestly, have also come to relish. Ripping out the invasive roots is incredibly satisfying, piling the gnarled roots for composting in a heap that gleams like a trophy in the sun. The real treasure is found when the battle is won, slowly unveiling a panoply of new plants for the taking.

Tomatoes, peas, mint, rosemary, sage- Oh, the sage! Suddenly I’ve inherited a large family of plant babies, but the sage, especially, demands attention. For a pungent herb that goes a long way, I certainly have a ton of it now. The soft, feathery leaves outstretch and tumble outside of their wooden containers, tumbling into the loamy soil below. They push and shove their siblings in an old fashioned show of rivalry, fighting for attention when they already have it. So in this dream world that’s become my life, I’m the steward of an outrageously large patch of fresh sage. No one prepared me for such an outlandish outcome.

Fresh Sage Tasting Notes

Fresh sage has a strong, earthy flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. That’s pretty much the only time I think of it, infusing that herbal aroma into stuffing, gravy, and meatless roasts. Sage is most at home in Mediterranean, American, and British cuisine, adding a subtly peppery, piney, citrus-y flavor that’s unlike any other. This combination makes it an especially compelling addition to dishes with dark leafy greens, mushrooms, lemon, garlic, browned butter, and toasted nuts.

Ideas For Cooking With Sage

If you have a more reasonable amount of fresh sage, perhaps leftover from another dish, here are a few quick, simple ideas for using it up:

  • Compound butter: Cream softened vegan butter with chopped sage, garlic, and/or lemon zest. Roll the mixture into a log with plastic wrap, chill until firm, and slice for a flavorful addition to any dish.
  • Stuffing: Add chopped sage to your favorite stuffing recipe, be it cornbread, wild rice, sourdough, and beyond.
  • Soups and stews: Sage is a great addition to hearty soups and stews, especially bean soups, lentil soups, and potato leek soup.
  • Creamy grain dishes: Sage pairs well with the richness of plant-based cream or coconut milk. Try adding it to pasta dishes with cream sauce, risotto, or polenta.
  • Roasted vegetables: Toss chopped sage with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, or other autumn or winter vegetables before roasting.
  • Fried sage leaves: Fry whole sage leaves in olive oil until crisp. These make a delicious, fragrant garnish for pasta dishes, soups, or roasted vegetables.

Quick Tip For Substituting Fresh Sage

Fresh sage has a stronger flavor than dried, so you’ll generally use less of it. A good rule of thumb is to start with 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh sage for every 1 teaspoon of dried sage called for in a recipe. Bear in mind that sage can become bitter and overpowering if cooked for too long. Incorporate it into your dishes towards the end of cooking to preserve the best elements of its flavor.

Taming A Ton Of Fresh Sage

If you, like me, have an insane wealth of fresh sage, it’s a different story. You really can’t just hammer it into a single dish; it’s already so strong, it would make your meal inedible. That said, pesto is my go-to move, especially when you can diffuse the sage with an equal measure of parsley. While the vibrant green paste is still incredibly powerful, you can safely freeze your pesto for future enjoyment, rather than letting the leaves wither outside in the brutal summer sun.

Of course, that’s not the end of the story. What can you do with sage pesto? I’m so glad you asked! Naturally, anywhere you’d use basil pesto, you can use sage pesto instead. That includes:

  • Pasta: Toss cooked pasta with sage pesto and you can serve it either hot or cold. When chilled, this is a great picnic side dish or guest at a potluck.
  • Pizza: Spread a thin layer of sage pesto over pizza dough instead of red sauce before adding your favorite toppings.
  • Toast: Toast your favorite sliced bread and spread with sage pesto for a delightful appetizer or snack. Obviously, sliced avocado would be an excellent addition, as would roasted tomatoes or pico de gallo.

  • Sandwiches and wraps: Add a spread of sage pesto to elevate your sandwiches and wraps. It pairs particularly well with roasted vegetables.
  • Eggless scrambles or omelets: Fold sage pesto into the scramble right at the last minute, or spread it on the inside of an omelet just before serving. Alternately, dollop or drizzle on top for immediate flavor impact.
  • Soup topping: Stir a spoonful of sage pesto into bowls of tomato soup, minestrone, or creamy potato leek soup for an extra layer of savory goodness.
  • Marinade: Toss tofu, tempeh, seitan, or your favorite meatless protein with sage pesto and let marinate for at least 30 minutes before cooking. The pesto adds both flavor and moisture to the protein.
  • Dip: Thin out sage pesto with hummus, plant-based sour cream, or yogurt for a excellent accompaniment to crackers and crudites.

While I’m still waiting to wake up from this dream, I sure hope that day never comes. I’ve grown quite fond of this new life, including all the sage it brings.

Continue reading “Sage Advice”

Bonkers For Sonkers

Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

Continue reading “Bonkers For Sonkers”

Cashews Are Magic

Is there any nut more versatile, more agile, or more beloved than the cashew? I don’t want to hear a word from the peanut gallery; everyone knows those are really legumes, after all. Curved like oversized commas, a buttery, toasted cashew could give any hungry eater pause, too. I had been so enamored with the tropical nuts that at one point, I wanted to write a cookbook called, Cashews Are Magic. While this never came to pass, their enchanting powers still hold true.

The magic lies in their textural transformation. Soak raw cashews, and they soften into a dreamy canvas for creamy sauces, dips, and vegan cheeses. Imagine a luxuriously rich Alfredo sauce or a velvety cashew queso, all dairy-free and deeply decadent. Don’t forget cheesecakes, both raw and baked, or mousses of every flavor.

Neutral or subtly nutty in flavor, cashews don’t need to be the star of the show to shine. That strong foundation complements everything from chocolate to berries, herbs to chilies, without any misgivings.

Incredibly shelf-stable, requiring no refrigeration until soaked, there’s no excuse for being without cashews at all times. They’re an essential pantry staple, ready to whip into a creamy creation at a moment’s notice. Plus, with a healthy dose of plant-based protein and essential fats, cashews have both brains and beauty, keeping you satiated and energized.

Don’t underestimate the humble cashew. It’s a nutrient-rich ingredient with a chameleon-like ability to transform into dairy-free sauces, cheeses, dips, and even decadent desserts. With a little creativity, cashews can become the cornerstone of a delicious and versatile vegan kitchen. While there’s no cookbook on the horizon from me, here are a few of my favorite cashew recipes so far.

Continue reading “Cashews Are Magic”

It’s S’more Than A Feeling

Any kid that once went to summer camp will forever have a soft spot for s’mores. The very word conjures up memories of crackling campfires, star-studded nights, and the all-American treat. No one can forget the sweet, sticky mess of melted chocolate, dripping out from under the heat of a toasted (okay, burnt) marshmallow, barely holding itself together between two buckling graham crackers. Though a relatively new culinary innovation that we can thank the Girl Scouts for, both the flavor and ritual have become impossibly enmeshed in our collective psyche.

I’d be willing to bet that most people these days don’t go out and light a bonfire every time cravings strike. Gathering firewood, tending flames that are extinguished after a light breeze, and battling rogue mosquitos seems like a lot to ask for a simple snack.

No longer children, subjected to these character-building moments, we have the means and technology to improve that experience. S’mores cupcakes capture all the nostalgia and flavor of the classic campfire treat, but with the added bonus of staying safe and cozy indoors. By using aquafaba, the beloved chickpea brine that whips up like a dream, it’s easy to achieve the very same toasted marshmallow flavor in a frosting. Just char the edges with a kitchen torch after piping; it’s faster than wrestling with kindling, a whole lot less messy than campfire soot, and the flavor is every bit as incredible.

Instead of tromping outside into the wilderness, preheat your oven for this round. It’s time to turn your kitchen into a haven of warm, gooey childhood comfort food, minus the campfire fuss.

Continue reading “It’s S’more Than A Feeling”