Lentils, Through a Different Lens

Some people judge the credibility of a Mediterranean restaurant by its falafel. Others decide its merits based on the hummus. Personally, I decide whether or not its worth a revisit after trying the soup.

Lentil soup, Turkish lentil soup, red lentil soup; whatever subtle variant it goes by on the menu, it should be relatively the same thing: a hot stew redolent of cumin and coriander, onions and garlic, made from red lentils stewed so hard that they simply give up on their corporeal form. There’s no blending needed to create the moderately thick, naturally creamy texture. Hopefully, a small wedge of lemon will come on the side for that final punch of acid, if the kitchen really knows what they’re doing.

Does anyone else order it? Rarely does it seem to grace the tables, other than my own. I don’t care if its made weeks or days or even months in advance, preserved in an icy tomb of a freezer, so long as it comes out steaming and comforting as ever. Yes, it’s simple, as the most difficult dishes are. There’s nowhere to hide mistakes.

I crave it terribly, all year round, despite the equally terrible heat bearing down most of the year. Typically it’s worth the pain (and sweat), but there’s no need to suffer. I’ve recently started taking the matter into my own hands, translating those essential elements into a chilled salad format. Best of all, this rendition cuts the cooking time down into almost nothing, since red lentils soften at the drop of a hat. In fact, that becomes the biggest challenge when you flip the script; instead of simmering them into nothingness, it takes greater finesse to cook them so lightly, that they remain intact.

Sure, I’ll fancy it up a bit with more substantial, forkable vegetables, like a genuine bean salad should be, while staying true to its roots. In the winter, it would be wonderful to take those same tomatoes, bell peppers, and swap in diced carrots, roast them, and serve the whole thing warm instead. That’s an idea to file away for now, as the heat rages on. These days, it’s an absolute delight tucked inside tender pita bread, wrapped up in lavash, or simply served in a generous bowl, always thoroughly chilled.

Yes, soup season is eternal, but so is salad season. There’s no reason why we can’t have both.

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Terry-bly Good Veggie Burgers

Few veggie burgers carry such mystique and acclaim as the patty from P. Terry’s. As a throwback to simpler times, it’s all substance, no style, and proud of it. It doesn’t try to emulate meat, yet regularly wins over proud carnists, at least for one meal. Many would say it’s the best veggie burger in the city, which is a tall claim for a $5 meal, fully loaded. Still, it bums me out.

Plant-Forward, Not Plant-Based

The veggie burger from P. Terry’s is not vegan. It’s not a matter that removing the top slice of American cheese can remedy; these legendary patties come with two additional types of shredded cheese baked right inside, enmeshed into the very fiber of that brown rice base. Vegetarian, yes; vegan, no.

Possibilities Frozen In Time

What’s more infuriating is that it doesn’t have to be this way. They’ve proven they have the technology! For a time span so short that it seemed like a fever dream, P. Terry’s started selling frozen veggie burger patties at select Whole Foods, including the original, AND a fully plant-based version using Daiya vegan cheese! Did anyone ever find them in stores? The records are lost to time. I certainly missed out on the opportunity, and they were never offered as a menu item in restaurants.

Deconstructing Ingredients

Though frustrating, the hype surrounding the dairy-filled classic has created a long paper trail of evidence for deconstruction. Their own website lists the ingredients as follows:

crimini mushrooms, heavy cream, black beans, brown rice, cheddar cheese, onion, mozzarella cheese, eggs, whole wheat flour, oats, parsley, corn starch, salt, garlic powder

Despite some conflicting evidence from a video posted to Facebook, showing the inclusion of bulgur, I believe the above to be true and accurate. Maybe they were just trying to throw us off the trail, because it’s otherwise too easy. I’m onto your tricks, Mr. Terry.

Starting From Scratch

Simple, comforting, and distinctly wholesome, this is a burger meant to taste homemade. For working people who don’t have the luxury of time to make their own, and would honestly rather not be eating fast food, that’s the whole appeal. Lightly crisped on the outside and soft on the inside, the standard array of crisp lettuce, tomato, onion, and “special sauce” create a satisfying contrast that brings it all together. Perhaps it’s special because it’s un-special, or vice versa?

As a vegan, it’s hard not to feel a little burned by the P. Terry’s veggie burger. With such thoughtful composition, respects paid to classic meatless patties of the 70’s and 80’s, and all that mouthwatering hype, it feels like a huge miss to keep dairy and eggs at its core.

Fast Food Meets Slow Food

For those of us on the outside looking in, there’s power in reinterpretation. The original’s legacy has created a clear blueprint, ripe for the taking. It may never show up on the P. Terry’s menu board, but some legends are best when you make your own.

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Firfir For Real

Ugly but tasty; that’s firfir, alright. Made from torn pieces of injera, it’s a thrifty way to use day-old bread and a few pantry staples. Of course, leftover injera isn’t something I’ve ever had at my disposal, so rare and precious that every scrap is exhausted long before the stews alongside. Firfir is every bit as special, no matter how simple. Now that I can order injera whenever I want, firfir is back on the menu, fresh and vibrant as ever.

Injera, the spongy, sour flatbread at the heart of Ethiopian cuisine, is a flatbread I could never make from scratch. All it takes is teff flour, water, and salt, but that’s not the whole story. Days of fermentation are what create its signature flavor and texture before its spread in paper-thin layers, even finer than French crepes, demanding untold years of practice to master. Anyone without access to an Ethiopian restaurant was out of luck, until Red Fox Spices began selling both Ivory and Brown Teff Injera inside their meal kits and, most important to this culinary adventure, solo.

What Goes Into Firfir?

There’s no “correct” way to make firfir. Mercifully, that also means there’s no wrong way to do it, either. It’s a dish of memory more than measurement. You’ll find variations all across Ethiopian households, each adapted as the technique passed through the hands of generations of cooks. Some brightened with fresh tomatoes, others simply use tomato paste or sauce. Some are fiery hot, others more mild. The only constant is the teff flatbread base, liberal use of oil and onions, and a heavy hand when applying berbere.

Berbere: The Heart Behind the Heat

There is no talking about firfir, or frankly, Ethiopian cuisine at all, without singing the praises of berbere. Crimson and potent as a red-hot flame, it’s the essential spice blend that pulses through almost every dish like a low, melodic hum. Smoky chili peppers take the lead, supported by a chorus of garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cumin, cardamom, allspice, and more. Like every other element of the cuisine, proportions vary from home to home, though it will always knock you off your feet with layers of complex flavor. I’m happy to get an assist from Red Fox Spices on this one too, as it’s the real deal.

Firfir For Days

Timeless, foolproof, and always well-received, firfir can be enjoyed for any meal. In Ethiopia, it’s most commonly served for breakfast, scooped up with even more fresh injera.

Firfir may not win any beauty contests, but it’s the kind of meal that’s meant to be eaten with your hands, not your eyes. Now that the key ingredients, injera and berbere, are readily available for shipping all over the world, there’s no excuse not to bring this soulful, spicy tangle of comfort into your own kitchen.

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Pesto Both Worlds

Put pesto and yuba together and nine times out of ten, you’d be right in thinking we’d have a high-protein faux noodle situation on the table. This is the one time out of ten where you’d be wrong.

Why Yuba? Why Not!

Thinly sliced soymilk skin, AKA yuba, makes an excellent facsimile for fettuccine; toothsome yet delicate, tangling with any pasta sauce as elegantly as anything made from wheat. And yes, while you could very happily stop there, treating that mixture more like a tuna salad and slapping it on a bun offers numerous benefits. For one, you can now eat it with your hands, shamelessly, and in public, which brings me to the second point of its enhanced portability. Can you eat a bowlful of spaghetti in the car, or pack it up and put it in a purse? Perhaps, but it I’d still argue that a sandwich full of pesto yuba has the edge.

Simple Swaps

Fresh yuba has become harder to get my hands on since moving away from California, inspiring me to recreate this understated classic with grated tofu, in case you’re wondering about substitutions. In fact, taking super firm tofu to a basic box grater yields a consistency more aligned with a conventional shredded chicken, faux crab, or tuna situation, more substantial and meaty, making its place between two slices of bread self-evident.

It’s not a flashy meal. It doesn’t sizzle, there’s no microgreen garnish. It’s not even particularly creative; just a different way of looking at an infinitely versatile ingredient that deserves to be more than another alt noodle.

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Not Jerking Your Chain

Packable protein is a must, and not just for gym rats focused on hitting their macros. As a person who travels by airplane often, drives a lot, and needs to be prepared in case of random catastrophic emergencies when only shelf stable food will do, I’m never without a cache of meatless jerky.

Conventional protein bars have their place, but personally, I’ve grown tired of the saccharine sweetness, latex-like consistency, and uninventive flavors. Savory snacks are where it’s at right now, evidenced by the booming jerky business. It feels like every day, there’s a new brand to try, which is both wonderful and overwhelming.

One Stop Jerky Shopping

Consolidate your search to one complete jerky resource to cut through the noise. Jerky Brands features a full selection of vegan jerky options, promoted with equal prominence as traditional options. It’s easy to find many old favorites right alongside upstarts that you may not have seen before. The meatless bases are diverse as the brands, leveraging unique meatless bases for every dietary need, such as:

  • Soy
  • Seitan
  • Mushrooms
  • Coconut
  • And even tomatoes!

Amongst those options, you’ll find gluten-free, organic, raw, low-sodium, and especially high-protein snacks, too.

Cruelty-Free Benefits

Seeing vegan jerky listed right alongside beef is even better than a solely vegan outpost, if you ask me. That means that omnivores who otherwise wouldn’t necessarily seek it out are automatically exposed to it, and thus more likely to consider it in addition to or instead of animal assets. Besides being kinder on the planet and to the creatures themselves, switching to meatless jerky is an easy, instant nutritional upgrade. It’s always cholesterol-free, lower in fat, and higher in fiber. It’s often priced lower than meat, too, for those on a budget.

Order Up

The beauty of having such a complete meatless jerky resource at your disposal is that you can try a little bit of everything. Don’t sweat the details; let the experts put together a curated sampler package, perfect as an introductory bundle for fledgling vegans or curious carnivores. This, like individual pouches as well, can be ordered as a subscription to make sure you never run out, and save 10% off the list price while you’re at it.

Snack Happy

Next time someone asks you the inevitable question of where you get your protein, just point them over to Jerky Brands. They’ll probably end up filling their virtual cart with all sorts of meatless treats once they get there, too.