Pletzel, If You Please

Pletzel is not just a drunken misspelling of pretzel, but a Jewish flatbread that falls somewhere between an oversized bialy and chewy focaccia. Some call it an “onion board” for the thick layer of silky sautéed onions baked right into the top, but that doesn’t do proper justice to the combination. Nutty poppy seeds are scattered like sprinkles on a cake, firmly adhered with a generous amount of olive oil, grassy and buttery all at once.

In honor of the 16th annual World Bread Day, I wanted to shine a light on this most humble loaf. It’s an event I would never willingly miss, because bread is not just sustenance; it’s a symbol of culture, tradition, and memories.

Banner World Bread Day, October 16, 2023

Pletzel, also spelled platzel or pletzl and pronounced “pleht-suhl,” might not be as renowned as challah or bagels, but it’s a true gem in Jewish baking history. As a testament to the resourcefulness of Jewish bakers, the dough is made from just the basics: flour, salt, yeast, water, and oil.

The Legacy of Pletzels

The pletzel can be traced back many centuries to Eastern Europe, where Jewish communities adapted their bread recipes out of necessity. It was an everyday staple, as it required fewer ingredients and less time to prepare than more luxurious loaves, like egg-heavy challah. Pletzel quickly became a staple in Jewish households, serving as a versatile companion to any meal.

Pletzels emigrated to the US along with the Polish, Lithuanian, and Ukrainian Jews in the mid-20th century, although they largely faded away as a relic of the past. It’s a rare sight to find them in any bakery or delicatessen outside of their motherland.

A Twist On Tradition

I don’t often have poppy seeds on hand, but I do have an abundance of za’atar. This savory seasoning blend combines oregano, marjoram or thyme, and earthy spices like cumin and coriander with toasted sesame seeds. Intense and pungent, especially with a pinch of tangy sumac, it’s one of those all-purpose mixes that works on just about any dish.

While not complicated by any means, we can still make it simpler and quicker thanks to the modern marvel of prepared pizza dough. Go all out and make your own from scratch, or shave at least an hour off of the process and jump right in; you can still call it homemade if you accept the assist.

Serving Suggestions

Like any other fluffy flatbread, a good pletzel has limitless potential for pairings. It’s a delight enjoyed all by itself, freshly baked and still warm from the oven, or dressed up with a greater meal.

The Daily Bread

In today’s fast-paced world, the pletzel may not be as common on our tables as it once was. However, it’s a bread worth preserving and celebrating. Especially on World Bread Day, there’s never been a better time to remember the importance of preserving our culinary heritage, one slice at a time.

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Pink of Perfection

Apples get all the attention on Rosh Hashanah, drizzled and dipped in honey to ensure a sweet new year ahead, but they’re not the only fruits of note for the occasion. Pomegranates also hold special significance, representing abundance and fertility; blessings that go a bit deeper than simple sweetness, if you ask me.

This year, multiply your mitzvot with Pink Pomegranate Challah, a brilliant round loaf with crisp arils woven into every slice.

There are HOW many seeds in a pomegranate?

Jewish lore has it that each pomegranate contains 613 seeds, which is exactly the number of Mitzvot, or commandments, given in the Torah. Scientific accuracy notwithstanding, it’s a compelling reminder of the multifaceted principals that go into leading a full life, through the good and bad.

Why is it the best challah recipe around?

For Rosh Hashanah, the traditionally straight plaited strands of bread curl into a rounded loaf instead. The round challah is often interpreted as a representation of the cyclical nature of life, the cycle of the year, and the continuity of creation. Especially important for this particular holiday, it’s a reminder of the passage of time and the opportunity for renewal that comes with each new year. The circular shape is also seen as a symbol of unity and completeness, as there is no beginning or end to a circle.

What does pink challah taste like?

Okay, enough mythology- Let’s get back to reality. Here we find a pillow-soft, buttery bread, tinted Barbie-pink with pitaya puree. The fruit puree doesn’t add any discernible flavor, but a subtle sweetness that plays off the vegan honey or agave beautifully. Tart bites of toothsome pomegranate arils balance it all out with an irresistible crunch.

It’s the kind of bread that needs no toppings or accompaniments, but of course, there’s nothing like a generous schmear of vegan butter or cream cheese to make it really shine. It’s a party anyway, so you might as well go all-out with a sprinkle of extra pomegranate arils and an extra touch of your favorite sticky sweetener.

Is there extra meaning behind a pink challah?

What I love about Judiasm is how that it’s open to modern interpretation, as a fluid, evolving concept. Thus, I’d like to add to the legend and lore to say that a pink challah is also meaningful, symbolizing hope, positivity, and optimism for the new year ahead. Furthermore, the color pink is also commonly linked to emotions like compassion and love; by incorporating a pink challah into the Rosh Hashanah meal, you can silently express a desire for the coming days to be filled with love, kindness, and strong connections among family and friends.

Shanah Tovah (שָׁנָה טוֹבָה), one and all.

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Mucho Matzo

You know what’s the worst part about buying matzo meal for Passover?

Having it sit in the pantry for the rest of your life.

Okay, perhaps that’s a bit over-dramatic. Maybe you’re more organized than I am and would clear the shelves without needing to include all the contents in your final will.

The thing is, I just don’t love matzo in any form, aside from matzo toffee, perhaps. If we’re being honest, it tastes stale from the moment it comes off the factory line, with a gritty, chalky taste and texture that would be rejected by taste testers if Moses ever held a focus group on his new product.

Unfortunately, matzo meal is a necessary evil to enjoy the one redeeming dish of Passover: Matzo ball soup. If not for those tender, fluffy dumplings, I’d happily forget that the stuff even exists. Instead, I’ll do my Jewish duty of preparing the culinary highlight of the holiday, end up with a mostly full box of excess matzo meal, and either give it away via the Buy Nothing Project or unceremoniously dumping it out of frustration a few months later. Next year, like clockwork, the cycle will begin anew.

How To Use Leftover Matzo Meal

It’s time to stop wasting a potentially serviceable staple! This is more a reminder for myself, but if you’re in a similar situation, these are my best suggestions for using up matzo meal, beyond the predictable matzo ball soup.

  • Add it to plant-based meatballs, meat loaves, or burger patties for bulk, texture, and binding power.
  • Mix in herbs and spices to act as a seasoned breading for fried tofu or cauliflower.
  • Sweeten with granulated sugar and drizzle in melted vegan butter until it holds together when pressed; transfer to a springform pan and bake into a crust for cheesecake.
  • Create a pesadik version of cream of wheat by simmering 1 part matzo meal with 2 parts water for about 5 minutes, until thickened. Serve hot with maple syrup and cinnamon.
  • Toast in a dry skillet and use instead of pine nuts in pesto.

How To Make Matzo Meal

Save yourself from the dilemma of excess in the first place by making your own matzo meal from scratch, yielding just enough for its intended purpose.

  1. One sheet of matzo will create roughly 1/4 cup of matzo meal.
  2. Break up as many sheets as you need into smaller pieces and place them in your food processor with the “S” blade installed.
  3. Pulse until finely ground to about the consistency of coarse almond meal.
  4. Store in an airtight container in a cool place until ready to use.

With a little bit of creativity and craftiness, anything can be delicious. You could be a matzo lover or hater and still enjoy any of these alternate uses that give it a whole new life beyond the seder plate!

If Wishes Were Like Shlishkes

Certain staples of Jewish cuisine are beloved as nonpartisan delicacies, as they should be. Steaming bowls of matzo ball soup soothe the soul, crisp latkes satisfy cravings for all things fried, and bagels are the grab-and-go breakfast for countless generations. Food doesn’t care what you do or don’t believe.

Shlishkes, however, haven’t made the same leap into mainstream culture. Originating with Hungarian Ashkenazi Jews, these humble potato dumplings are often compared to Italian gnocchi for their similar structure. Tender, soft, gently simmered morsels made from a bare minimum of ingredients, they’re within easy reach of anyone on a budget or with limited cooking experience.

Potato Shlishkes

How do you make shlishkes?

It’s quite simple:

  1. Boil and mash potatoes.
  2. Add flour.
  3. Cut into dumplings.
  4. Boil and drain.
  5. Toss with breadcrumbs and bake until toasted.

This final step is what truly separates it from the other potato-based pastas. Liberal use of vegan butter or schmaltz and breadcrumbs transforms homely dough into nutty, crunchy, rich, and savory delights.

Want to make these shlishkes your own?

Such a simple formula is ripe for creative interpretation. A few easy ideas for a tasty twist on tradition include:

  • Use coarse almond meal or crushed crunchy chickpeas instead of breadcrumbs for a gluten-free option.
  • Swap white potatoes for orange or purple sweet potatoes.
  • Add cayenne or crushed red pepper flakes to spice things up.
  • Use olive oil instead of vegan butter or schmaltz to decrease the saturated fat.
  • Finish with a sprinkle of vegan Parmesan cheese.

Like any good starchy side, shlishkes are best accompanied by a hearty entree. In truth, though, there’s no bad pairing or inopportune time to serve them. Enjoy shlishke for Hanukkah, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, birthdays, Bachelor parties, Satanic rites; anything worth celebrating with a comforting, homemade meal!

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Noodle Kugel, Kit and Caboodle

I didn’t grow up eating noodle kugel. In fact, my dad’s distaste for the starchy staple was so severe, it was effectively banished from our household. No amount of gentle cajoling could convince me to try this odd noodle pudding later in life and to be perfectly honest, I’m still not a fan.

Lokshem (“noodle” in Yiddish) kugel existed as early as the 1500s, neatly fitting into orthodox and kosher homes as a dairy dish without meat. It truly rose to fame as a facet of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine in the 1800s with the sudden infusion of cheap sugar flooding in from refineries in Poland and Hungary. Raisins, cinnamon, and nutmeg were other popular additions, creating a very sweet, rich noodle casserole that could be served for breakfast and dinner alike.

Still, savory versions did exist, relying on fried onions and black pepper instead, which gave me hope for revitalizing this time-honored tradition in a way better suited to my tastes.

Breaking With Tradition

Apples are the subtle source of natural sweetness here, balanced out by the tangy bite of sauerkraut. The combination hearkens back to German cabbage and apples, simmered together with warm herbs for a heartwarming wintry stew. Meanwhile, tofu, unsweetened yogurt, and shredded vegan cheese create a high-protein base that replaces the dairy in one fell swoop.

Let’s not forget about the noodles themselves, which were typically egg ribbons, wide flat strands undulating in a sea of sweet pudding. You could simply use any ruffled or broad shape, but my favorite is broken lasagna noodles, smashed into large chunks to replicate that texture in a more free form approach. This is especially handy if you have a half-box leftover after your last recipe but can’t stand to fuss with all those layers again. Just grab a rolling pin and let out your frustration!

Now I’d compare this more to a baked ziti without marinara, or any other pasta casserole that can be scooped out hot or sliced when cool. Serve with a side salad, steamed vegetables, or simple soup to complete the meal.

How To Make A Healthier Noodle Kugel

This rendition already beats the competition by a mile when it comes to nutrition. Typically composed of one or two sticks of butter, a half dozen eggs, and up to a cup of white sugar, there’s really no comparison. Still, if you’re following a more restrictive diet, there are plenty of ways to adapt this formula further to suit your needs.

  • Gluten-free: Use your favorite gluten-free pasta instead of conventional noodles.
  • No Refined Sugar: Use no sugar-added apple butter.
  • Oil-Free: Replace the vegan cheese with 1/4 cup nutritional yeast and swap the butter or oil for aquafaba.

Make-Ahead and Meal Prep Options

Noodle kugel is the best guest you’ve ever invited to dinner. It can wait patiently to be served and is great with crowds.

Leftovers can keep for 5 to 7 days in the fridge, covered tightly with plastic wrap. Individual servings can be microwaved for 2 to 3 minutes if you’re in a rush.

For longer term storage, you can freeze it for 4 to 6 months. Simply let it thaw at room temperature and re-heat in the oven at 350 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes, until hot all the way through.

You can double the recipe and bake it in a 9 x 13-inch baking pan for twice as many servings, which makes it ideal for potlucks and holiday gatherings alike.

There are truly a million ways to make noodle kugel. If you haven’t been fond of the sweet stuff in the past, give it another try through a more savory lens.

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Fat of the Land

The original “liquid gold” was not a processed cheese food. The true gilded elixir is every bubbie’s secret ingredient, the indescribable element that always made her matzo balls better than the rest. A staple of Ashkenazi Jewish cooking, schmaltz is made from rendered chicken fat cooked with onions. Even in the height of the farm-to-table cooking craze when duck fat fries were all the rage, this humble grease never gained more attention. To this day, I have yet to see a single vegan alternative offered. In a world where we have plant-based ghee, browned butter, and niter kibbeh, I’m not asking, I’m demanding: WHY.

Vegan shmaltz is everything you want as a cooking catalyst and nothing you don’t. It’s free of cholesterol, completely kosher, full of flavor, and won’t leave your kitchen smelling like a barnyard for a week. As a nice side benefit, you’ll end up with a tidy pile of caramelized onions to lavish over meatless burgers, toast, scrambles, pasta, and anything else that could use a little umami assist.

Step up your matzo ball game by making this easy swap to replace the bland vegetable oil originally called for, but don’t stop there. Anywhere you might use melted butter, try using schmaltz instead. It will open up a whole new world of riches, bathed in a golden glow.

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