Tag: gluten-free

Don’t Leaf Curry Alone

“Curry” isn’t just a type of stew, or a paste, or even a powder. Curry leaves came before all of that, appearing in text as early as 100 CE. A treasured staple of south Indian cuisine, their complete absence in overseas markets is downright astounding. Even with my penchant for exploring new flavors and obscure ingredients, my first taste of fresh curry leaves was only a few months ago. Now, I’ll spend the rest of my life making up for lost time.

What Do Curry Leaves Taste Like?

What do they taste like? No, seriously, I’m still asking myself that question. I popped a spry green leaf into my mouth and chewed, racking my brain for a good comparison. Shiso had the closest flavor profile I could come up with, but even that is a stretch. Musky, piney, resinous, tannic, nutty, and pungent, there’s truly nothing else like them. Don’t bother looking for substitutes; you’re better off just omitting them, unfortunately.

Where Can I Get Curry Leaves?

This is the million dollar question, the real barrier to entry here. Realistically, it’s more like a $2 question when you find a source, and you’ll get at least a half bushel of the things for that price. Take as many as are offered because they freeze beautifully, which means you can always have an ample supply on hand. Unless you have access to a robust Asian or Indian market though, it’s unlikely you’ll find fresh curry leaves nearby. Dried are available online, but of course, they lack the same punch and vibrancy.

What’s The Best Way To Cook With Curry Leaves?

I’m so glad you asked! Cooking with curry leaves is intuitive once you start thinking about them as both a whole spice and herb. Naturally, they’re best suited with Indian recipes, tempered in hot oil before a stir fry, stew, or sauté, bringing out the aromatic, volatile oils. The leaves can be used whole, much like bay leaves, but they’re fully edible and thus don’t need to be removed before serving. Dried, ground curry leaves can be applied like any other seasoning, although again, don’t expect the same distinctive bouquet of flavors.

Health Benefits of Curry Leaves

Curry leaves have a long history of medicinal usage with proven results. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E, and minerals, their nutritional value is as powerful as their culinary potential. A key component of Ayurvedic medicine since ancient times, curry leaves are noted for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. They’re also believed to aid in digestion, improve hair and skin health, reduce cholesterol, and even help manage diabetes. If you’re ever feeling the effects of eating too many beans (AKA flatulence), chew on a few raw curry leaves for relief. It’s a surprisingly effective and affordable fix!

Curry Leaf Recipes

Now that I finally got my hands on these greens that have more culinary value than dollar bills, I’m trying to spend them wisely on only the most promising recipes. Here’s the list of suggestions that I’ll be working through shortly:

The beauty of curry leaves is that they go with genuinely any Indian dish. Just throw a handful into whatever you’re cooking for an instant flavor upgrade.

Curry Up Now

If you’ve ever wondered why your home cooking doesn’t taste quite like your favorite meals from Indian restaurants, curry leaves are the missing ingredient. The instant impact that a small sprig can have is astounding, like turning a light switch on in a dark room. Come into the light, and give fresh curry leaves a try.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Bonkers For Sonkers

Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

Continue reading “Bonkers For Sonkers” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Charred Noodles for Char Kway Teow

Sizzling, hissing, and popping violently, char kway teow is a dish that truly does speak for itself. If you don’t hear it first, you’ll definitely smell it; heady plumes of smoke carry the intoxicating aroma of caramelized soy sauce through the air for at least a dozen city blocks. Though one of a million noodles, it’s the fine details that set this one apart as a worthy headliner on any Malaysian menu.

A Brief History of Char Kway Teow

Originating from Chinese cuisine, particularly Teochew and Hokkien traditions, the dish’s name itself is rooted in Hokkien language, with “char” signifying stir-frying, “kway” representing rice cakes, and “teow” meaning flat. As Chinese immigrants settled in Southeast Asia, including Malaysia and Singapore, they brought their culinary heritage with them.

Over time, these traditions merged with local ingredients and tastes, resulting in the evolution of char kway teow. It became a popular street food, served in hawker stalls across the region due to its affordability, hearty nature, and bold flavors. Though the exact date and place of its creation remains uncertain, char kway teow has established itself as an iconic and beloved Southeast Asian dish, celebrated for its unique flavor as much as its cultural significance.

Key Characteristics

Many other suspiciously similar stir fries share numerous elements with char kway teow. While undoubtedly delicious in their own rights, none can compare with this singular culinary feat. The essential factors that define the dish include:

  • Flat Rice Noodles: The star of the show, these wide, silky rice noodles provide a chewy foundation for the dish. They’re similar to pad thai noodles but wider. These noodles are known for their chewy texture and ability to absorb the flavors of the sauce.
  • Dark Soy Sauce: The primary seasoning for char kway teow is dark soy sauce, which gives the dish its signature dark color and a slightly sweet and savory flavor. The dark soy sauce used in char kway teow is thicker and richer than regular soy sauce, clinging better to the other ingredients as well.
  • High Heat Cooking: Char kway teow is traditionally cooked in a hot wok over high heat, which imparts a smoky “wok hei” flavor to the dish. This cooking technique adds depth and complexity like nothing else. This is the absolute most important part of the whole concept. Without that char, those subtly blackened edges and smoky finish, it’s just another bowl of generic noodles.

How It’s Made

Truth be told, technique is even more important than specific ingredients in this case. Intense heat ripples through the whole kitchen when the wok is set on full blast, smoldering and searing anything in seconds. Replicating the flavor and texture that creates through any other means is impossible, which is why it’s so hard to master at home. Few consumer stoves can get hot enough, and even if they do, most people don’t want to commit to setting off their smoke alarms for a weekday dinner. It’s such a popular street food for the same reason; open air markets pair better with live fire cooking than enclosed spaces.

Pungent garlic, soy sauce, and sometimes chili paste season those blistered noodles in a literal flash in the pan. Traditional recipes may include prawns, sausages, or other meat, but vegetarian versions are just as common, omitting or replacing the protein with fried tofu. Vegetables are used sparingly, leaning heavily on bean sprouts to add a fresh, crunchy contrast to the savory medley.

(Side note: I can’t help myself and tend to go overboard with zucchini, mushrooms, bok choy, and anything else that happens to be in the fridge, as seen here. In this case, do as I say, not as I do!)

Never A Bad Time For Noodles

Unlike the standard American diet that normalizes only certain dishes as “breakfast foods,” savvy Malay people will happily enjoy noodles throughout the day. Whether as a hearty breakfast, a quick lunch, or a comforting dinner, it never fails to satisfy. You’ll find char kway teow everywhere, on the menus of street stalls, hawker centers, and even upscale restaurants, as a testament to its enduring popularity.

Like any noteworthy noodles, char kway teow is more than just a dish; it’s a testament to the vibrant tapestry of Southeast Asian culinary traditions. With its broad appeal, dynamic flavors, and endless possibilities for adaptation, it’s a safe bet for a winning meal.

Hannah (BitterSweet)12 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Liangfen

Jiggly, wiggly JELL-O is a staple of early American desserts, persisting to this day as a favorite of the young, the old, and the boozy reveler alike. Most associate it with sweet desserts, packaged in all sorts of fruity flavors, but it hasn’t always been that way. In fact, gelatin was traditionally a savory ingredient, featuring prominently in some questionable gelled salads, or for the upper class, aspics instead. Of course, there’s so much more to it than that, especially when you consider different plant-based gelling agents. Thus, whenever I see “Sichuan green bean jello” on a menu, I’ll always jump at the chance to place my order.

Better known as liangfen, it’s not actually made from JELL-O or any animal-based gelatin at all. More accurately, it’s typically made from the starch of either mung beans or green peas. It may come as a surprise when it arrives at the table in bright white, blocky rectangular lengths, stained red with chili oil, boasting a hint of green color only from scallions or celery leaves on top.

What are Liangfen, AKA Cold Jelly Noodles?

Slippery, with a short bite that’s much softer than a chewy wheat-based noodle, they’re very easy to eat, provided you can gently coax them onto your chopsticks. It can be tricky to pick up more than one strand at a time, especially if they’re slicked with a richly umami sauce. Consider them the tofu of noodles, being almost completely flavorless before soaking in a deeply flavorful sauce. Mala Sichuan peppercorns, black vinegar, pungent chopped garlic, toasted sesame seed, and red hot oil sizzling with chilies are all essential for this dish.

Make Your Own Liangfen

As a naturally, “accidentally” vegan noodle, there are plenty of excellent recipes online that need no modification. It’s incredibly easy to make and fully customizable to your tastes, in case you’d prefer a sauce with less heat or more acid.

Where Do Liangfen Come From?

Served cold, the contrasting heat of the spices is what makes it so addicting. Especially on hot summer days, it’s incredibly refreshing while making you sweat at the same time. Fittingly, the name liangfen translates to “cold starch” or “cool noodle” in English. Born some time within the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912,) it began life as a humble street food in the Sichuan province, spreading quickly to proper eateries and even fine dining restaurants.

Eat Liangfen For Your Health!

For the health-conscious, there’s a lot to love about this sleek, silky treat, too. Low in calories and fat, it’s also rich in fiber and quality carbohydrates, promoting digestive health and providing a sustainable source of plant-based energy. Since these noodles are made of starch instead of wheat, they’re gluten-free and free of all major allergens.

Upon first bite, the unique gelatinous texture, seeming to melt in your mouth, grabbing your attention as something far outside the realm of western culinary creations. The interplay of flavors is a symphony of sensations; the tangy vinegar dances with the umami soy sauce, while the chili oil adds a crescendo of heat. Altogether, it’s an extraordinary noodle that should be a prominent guest at your table, too.

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Flat-Out Fabulous

Long before savory oats became the trendy breakfast du jour, poha has been the most important meal of the day for thousands of years.

As a daily oatmeal eater, it takes a lot for me to consider switching teams. Poha was the unexpected jolt of inspiration to break out of the routine for a low risk, high reward payoff.

What is Poha?

Poha is flattened rice, but the word is also shorthand for many of the dishes it creates. There are thin, medium, and thick flakes, producing a range of textures best suited for instant snacks, quick meals, or more time-consuming creations. They all cook more quickly than whole grain rice though, while retaining more vitamins and minerals than standard white rice.

Like Vietnamese broken rice, this unique format isn’t a defect but intentional feature. Modern factories use heavy rollers to flatten the grains just like rolled oats. Traditionally, and still to this day in some small villages, the rice is pounded by hand, earning the alternate description of “beaten rice.”

Chivda is a term that can be used interchangeably depending on the region, although it often refers to a thinner variety, dry-roasted with spices and enjoyed as a crispy snack.

What Does Poha Taste Like?

Very neutral in flavor as you’d expect from plain rice, the real attraction for poha is the texture. Soft, slightly sticky, tender, and easily yielding, it’s easy to eat and beloved by young and old. Thin poha tends to fall apart and become mushy when cooked, which is why it’s more popular when dry roasted. Medium and thick poha can have fluffier, separate grains

Regional Variations

India itself is a huge, diverse area encompassing many unique cultural identities, so it should come as no surprise that poha does as well. These variations are a testament to the versatility of poha, allowing individuals to customize their breakfast experience according to their preferences.

  • In Maharashtra, you’ll find Kanda Poha, where onions play a dominant role in the recipe.
  • Batata Poha, from Gujarat, incorporates potatoes for added substance.
  • In the north, you’ll encounter Indori Poha, which is boldly sweet and sour, tart and tangy, with plenty of heat in each bite.

How To Cook Poha

Though I naturally draw parallels between oatmeal and poha, there are notable differences in the cooking procedure and textural results. Rather than porridge or gruel, poha is dryer, more like pilaf, true to its rice base.

  1. Medium and thick poha needs to be rinsed to remove excess starch that would otherwise make the dish gummy or mushy. Place it in a fine mesh sieve and rinse it under running water for about 10 – 15 seconds. Gently swish the poha with your fingers while rinsing to ensure even coverage.
  2. Transfer the rinsed poha to a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak for 5 minutes to soften, which expedites the cooking process. Drain thoroughly so it doesn’t get waterlogged.
  3. Always stir gently to avoid breaking the flakes. Add your cooking liquid, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes, until soft and fluffy.

Breakfast All Day

Don’t forget, breakfast is truly a state of mind. Though it’s traditionally enjoyed as a morning meal, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoy poha for lunch or dinner, too. This version, redolent of toasted spices and finished with a bright splash of lime juice, is simple to make yet complex in taste. Basic pantry staples are the foundation that’s easily adapted to taste. Many also enjoy sweet poha, aligned with conventional American hot cereal with cinnamon and maple syrup, so don’t be afraid to experiment. These grains may be flat, but their flavor sure isn’t.

Continue reading “Flat-Out Fabulous” →

Hannah (BitterSweet)7 Comments

Noodles You Should Know: Áp Chảo Chay

No matter how many noodles you know and love, there’s always more to discover. It’s a distinct joy and benefit to eating out; exploring global flavors without hopping on a plane, using your vacation days, or even coordinating a babysitter to watch the kids. Ordinary days are transformed into unforgettable ones with a single bite. That’s the story of how I first found out about Áp Chảo Chay.

What Is Áp Chảo Chay?

Áp Chảo means both pan-fried and sauteed, so what you get are sheets of fused noodles that are chewy on the inside and crispy on the outside. It’s a multidimensional textural experience, and every bite is a bit different. Some pieces have a resounding crunch like a deep-fried wonton, while others have more of an al dente give. It’s unlike any other straight-forward stir fry and something everyone should have in their lives.

Chay, of course, simply means vegetarian, so you get an assortment of tender-crisp fresh veggies and tofu, rounding out the meal.

Where Can You Find Áp Chảo Chay?

This Vietnamese specialty is surprisingly hard to come by in the states, which is why it took me so long to get my first, completely revolutionary taste. It’s not something you can simply order if it’s not on the menu, given the difficulty and time involved, but it’s worth asking around if restaurant owners know another place that could accommodate.

Many versions on the concept exist, of course, the most popular of which being Áp Chảo Bo, with beef. If you happen to find this, you can easily request it without meat; the rest of the dish is usually “accidentally” vegan without eggs or dairy, but you will want to specify in case fish sauce or oyster sauce come into play.

The specific noodles can vary as well. Some use wide, flat rice noodles (as seen here) while others use thinner pho noodles or even vermicelli.

How To Make Áp Chảo Chay

Though simple in concept, success rests solely on technique for this dish. To be honest, I haven’t been able to get it right yet, but there are plenty of people much more experienced in the art that can help guide you.

  • Wandering Chopsticks is truly the online authority on Vietnamese cooking, so I’d trust this version of Pho Ap Chao Bo implicitly. To veganize, replace the fish sauce with soy sauce, and use your favorite plant-based protein instead of beef.
  • Cooking Off The Cuff takes a more soupy approach, filling a bowl for this Phở Áp Chảo with hot broth to finish. Same notes for veganizing, though you could use vegetarian oyster sauce here if you can find it.

Not everything needs to be spicy, but if you’re a heat-seeker, stock up on hot chili oil to lavish on top. That bright finishing touch makes an already excellent dish utterly unassailable.

Try a new noodle tonight. There’s still so many more out there, waiting to be savored.

Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments